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1.
The two-dimensional problem of the generation of water waves due to instantaneous disturbances prescribed at the bed of a beach sloping at an arbitrary angle is studied here. It is formulated in terms of an initial-boundary-value problem for the velocity potential describing the motion in the fluid region assuming the linear theory. Using the Laplace transform in time and the Mellin transform in distance, the problem is reduced to solving a difference equation whose method of solution is of considerable importance in the literature. The form of the free surface is obtained in terms of a multiple infinite integral that is evaluated by the method of steepest-descent. For some prescribed forms of the disturbance at the bed of the beach, the free surface is depicted in a number of figures for different beach angles. It is observed that as the beach angle decreases, the maximum wave height increases, which is plausible.  相似文献   

2.
Zhihua Xie 《Ocean Dynamics》2017,67(10):1251-1261
Wind effects on periodic breaking waves in the surf zone have been investigated in this study using a two-phase flow model. The model solves the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the k ? ?? turbulence model simultaneously for the flows both in the air and water. Both spilling and plunging breakers over a 1:35 sloping beach have been studied under the influence of wind, with a focus during wave breaking. Detailed information of the distribution of wave amplitudes and mean water level, wave-height-to-water-depth ratio, the water surface profiles, velocity, vorticity, and turbulence fields have been presented and discussed. The inclusion of wind alters the air flow structure above water waves, increases the generation of vorticity, and affects the wave shoaling, breaking, overturning, and splash-up processes. Wind increases the water particle velocities and causes water waves to break earlier and seaward, which agrees with the previous experiment.  相似文献   

3.
A new theoretical approach for the wave-induced setup over a sloping beach is presented that takes into consideration the explicit variations of the surface waves due to bottom slope and viscosity. In this way, the wave forcing of the mean Lagrangian volume fluxes is calculated without assuming that the local depth is constant. The analysis is valid in the region outside the surf zone and is based on the shallow-water assumption. A novel approach for separating the viscous damping of the waves from the frictional damping of the mean flow is introduced, where the mean Eulerian velocity is applied in the bottom stress for the mean fluxes. In the case where the onshore Lagrangian mean transport is zero, a new formula is derived for the Eulerian mean free surface slope, in which the effects of bottom slope, viscous wave damping and frictional bottom drag on the mean flow are clearly identified. The analysis suggests that viscous damping of the waves and frictional dissipation of the Eulerian near-bed return flow could lead to setup outside the surf zone.  相似文献   

4.
The Aquitanian Coast (France) is a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment exhibiting a highly variable double sandbar system. The inner and the outer bar generally exhibit a bar and rip morphology and persistent crescentic patterns, respectively. In June 2007, an intense five-day field experiment was carried out at Biscarrosse Beach. A large array of sensors was deployed on a well-developed southward-oriented bar and rip morphology. Daily topographic surveys were carried out together with video imaging to investigate beach morphodynamic evolution. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged from 0.5 to 3 m, with a persistent shore-normal angle. This paper identifies two types of behavior of an observed rip current: (1) for low-energy waves, the rip current is active only between low and mid tide with maximum mean rip current velocity reaching 0.8 m/s for an offshore significant wave height (Hs) lower than 1 m; (2) for high-energy waves (Hs≈ 2.5–3 m), the rip current was active over the whole tide cycle with the presence of persistent intense offshore-directed flows between mid and high tide. For both low and high-energy waves, very low-frequency pulsations (15–30 min) of the mean currents are observed on both feeder and rip channels.A persistent slow shoreward migration of the sandbar was observed during the experiment while no significant alongshore migration of the system was measured. Onshore migration during the high-energy waves can be explained by different sediment transport processes such as flow velocity skewness, wave asymmetry or bed ventilation. High-frequency local measurements of the bed evolution show the presence of significant (in the order of 10 cm) fluctuations (in the order of 1 h). These fluctuations, observed for both low- and high-energy waves, are thought to be ripples and megaripples, respectively and may play an important but still poorly understood role in the larger scale morphodynamics. The present dataset improves the knowledge of rip dynamics as well as the morphological response of strongly alongshore non-uniform meso-macrotidal beaches.  相似文献   

5.
Within a wave-exposed mangrove forest, novel field observations are presented, comparing millimeter-scale turbulent water velocity fluctuations with contemporaneous subtidal bed elevation changes. High-resolution velocity and bed level measurements were collected from the unvegetated mudflat, at the mangrove forest fringe, and within the forest interior over multiple tidal cycles (flood–ebb) during a 2-week period. Measurements demonstrated that the spatial variability in vegetation density is a control on sediment transport at sub-meter scales. Scour around single and dense clusters of pneumatophores was predicted by a standard hydraulic engineering equation for wave-induced scour around regular cylinders, when the cylinder diameter in the equations was replaced with the representative diameter of the dense pneumatophore clusters. Waves were dissipated as they propagated into the forest, but dissipation at infragravity periods (> 30 s) was observed to be less than dissipation at shorter periods (< 30 s), consistent with the predictions of a simple model. Cross-wavelet analysis revealed that infragravity-frequency fluctuations in the bed level were occasionally coherent with velocity, possibly indicating scour upstream of dense pneumatophore patches when infragravity waves reinforced tidal currents. Consequently, infragravity waves were a likely driver of sediment transport within the mangrove forest. Near-bed turbulent kinetic energy, estimated from the turbulent dissipation rate, was also correlated with bed level changes. Specifically, within the mangrove forest and over the unvegetated mudflat, high-energy events were associated with erosion or near-zero bed level change, whereas low-energy events were associated with accretion. In contrast, no single relationship between bed level changes and mean current velocity was applicable across both vegetated and unvegetated regions. These observations support the theory that sediment mobilization scales with turbulent energy, rather than mean velocity, a distinction that becomes important when vegetation controls the development of turbulence.  相似文献   

6.
Sediment movement in the wave boundary layer above a mobile sediment bed is complex.A velocity formula for the boundary layer is proposed for sheet flow induced by asymmetric waves above a mobile sediment bed.The formula consists of a free stream velocity and a defect function which contains a phase-lead,boundary layer thickness and mobile sediment bed.Phase-lag of sediment movement is considered in the formula for the mobile sediment bed.The formula needs six dependent variables about asymmetric wave and sediment characteristics.Asymmetry effects on parameters(orbital amplitude,roughness height,bed shear stress,and boundary layer thickness)are properly considered such that the formula can yield velocity differences among onshore,offshore,acceleration,and deceleration stages.The formula estimates the net boundary layer velocity resulting from the mobile sediment bed and asymmetric boundary layer thickness.In addition,a non-constant phase-lead also contributes to the net boundary layer velocity in asymmetric oscillatory sheet flow.Results of the formula are as good as that of a two-phase numerical model.Sheet flow transport induced by asymmetric waves,and the offshore net sediment transport rate with a large phase-lag under velocity-skewed waves,can be adequately estimated by the formula with a power sediment concentration function.  相似文献   

7.
Rills caused by run‐off concentration on erodible hillslopes have very irregular profiles and cross‐section shapes. Rill erosion directly depends on the hydraulics of flow in the rills, which may differ greatly from hydraulics of flow in larger and regular channels. In this paper, a recently theoretically deduced rill flow resistance equation, based on a power–velocity profile, was tested experimentally on plots of varying slopes (ranging from 9% to 26%) in which mobile and fixed bed rills were incised. Initially, measurements of flow velocity, water depth, cross‐section area, wetted perimeter, and bed slope, carried out in 320 reaches of mobile bed rills and in 165 reaches of fixed rills, were used for calibrating the theoretical flow resistance equation. Then the relationship between the velocity profile parameter Γ, the channel slope, and the flow Froude number was separately calibrated for the mobile bed rills and for the fixed ones. The measurements carried out in both conditions (fixed and mobile bed rills) confirmed that the Darcy–Weisbach friction factor can be accurately estimated using the proposed theoretical approach. For mobile bed rills, the data were supportive of the slope independence hypothesis of velocity, due to the feedback mechanism, stated by Govers. The feedback mechanism was able to produce quasicritical flow conditions. For fixed bed rills, obtained by fixing the rill channel, by a glue, at the end of the experimental run with a mobile bed rill, the slope independence of the flow velocity measurements was also detected. Therefore, an experimental run carried out by a rill bed fixed after modelling flow action is useful to detect the feedback mechanism. Finally, the analysis showed that, for the investigated conditions, the effect of sediment transport on the flow resistance law can be considered negligible respect to the grain roughness effect.  相似文献   

8.
Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ～20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.  相似文献   

9.
The role of wave forcing on the main hydro-morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross-shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non-local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter-related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave-forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non-local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large-scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along-river-flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Results from a series of numerical simulations of two‐dimensional open‐channel flow, conducted using the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) code FLUENT, are compared with data quantifying the mean and turbulent characteristics of open‐channel flow over two contrasting gravel beds. Boundary roughness effects are represented using both the conventional wall function approach and a random elevation model that simulates the effects of supra‐grid‐scale roughness elements (e.g. particle clusters and small bedforms). Results obtained using the random elevation model are characterized by a peak in turbulent kinetic energy located well above the bed (typically at y/h = 0·1–0·3). This is consistent with the field data and in contrast to the results obtained using the wall function approach for which maximum turbulent kinetic energy levels occur at the bed. Use of the random elevation model to represent supra‐grid‐scale roughness also allows a reduction in the height of the near‐bed mesh cell and therefore offers some potential to overcome problems experienced by the wall function approach in flows characterized by high relative roughness. Despite these benefits, the results of simulations conducted using the random elevation model are sensitive to the horizontal and vertical mesh resolution. Increasing the horizontal mesh resolution results in an increase in the near‐bed velocity gradient and turbulent kinetic energy, effectively roughening the bed. Varying the vertical resolution of the mesh has little effect on simulated mean velocity profiles, but results in substantial changes to the shape of the turbulent kinetic energy profile. These findings have significant implications for the application of CFD within natural gravel‐bed channels, particularly with regard to issues of topographic data collection, roughness parameterization and the derivation of mesh‐independent solutions. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
The Reynolds stress and bed shear stress are important parameters in fluvial hydraulics. Steady-nonuniform flow in open channels with streamwise sloping beds having upward seepage through loose beds is theoretically analyzed to estimate the Reynolds stress and bed shear stress. Equations of the Reynolds stress and bed shear stress are developed, assuming a modified logarithmic velocity distribution law due to upward seepage, and using the Reynolds and continuity equations of two-dimensional flow in open channels.  相似文献   

12.
The intertidal drainage channels on a macrotidal bar–trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) beach were monitored during a 17‐day survey. Type 1 channels were persistent, dominantly longshore systems essentially limited to the wide intertidal zone between mean high and low water neap tidal levels. The cumulative length of this channel type fluctuated as a function of topographically controlled through‐flow or flow impedance in troughs, and showed no correlation with the semi‐lunar tidal cycle. Smaller, ephemeral type 2 channels appeared as dominantly cross‐shore systems incising bars on the narrower upper and lower beach zones during spring tides. They disappeared during neap tides through infill by waves and aeolian activity. The only significant phase of type 1 channel mobility occurred during a brief moderate‐energy storm at the start of the survey. The effect of this mobility on beach morphology was inextricably linked to that of waves and currents. Meander bend migration, forced by wave‐ and longshore‐current‐induced migration of a bar during the storm, resulted in important but highly localized morphological change that was only a minor part of an irregular saw‐tooth pattern of change that affected the entire beach profile, and that was largely controlled by wave processes and longshore currents. The flow velocities in channels on this beach are too weak to generate the formation and longshore migration of high‐energy bedforms. Channel mobility and impact on beach morphology are expected to increase under storm conditions. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
The role of mud erosion under waves in governing cohesive sediment transport in estuarial and coastal waters is well known. A laboratory study was conducted in order to elucidate the mechanism by which soft muds erode under progressive waves in a flume. Two types of cohesive sediment were used, a commercial kaolinite and an estuarial mud. Beds were formed by pouring in a pre-prepared sediment-water slurry and allowing the deposit to consolidate for a period ranging from 2 to 14 days. A multi-layered hydrodynamic model, which considers the mud to be viscoelastic, has been developed and used to evaluate the bed shear stress at the oscillating mud-water interface. The viscoelastic property of the mud has been confirmed by rheological measurements, and model results on velocity, pressure and wave attenuation verified against flume data. Concentration profiles indicate a distinct evolutionary pattern resulting in a highly stratified suspension. Just above the bed, a thin layer of fluid mud is generated. Above this layer, the suspension concentration is significantly lower. This two-layered feature of the concentration profile is related to the oscillatory response of the mud and water layers, and the associated momentum exchange and mass diffusion characteristics. An expression relating the rate of erosion to the bed shear stress in excess of bed shear resistance has been developed. Generation of fluid mud during erosion is a significant feature of the role of waves over mud.  相似文献   

14.
A laboratory experiment using a two-dimensional wave tank was designed to investigate the mechanism of erosion at a cliff base by waves armed with rock fragments. The experiment was performed under constant wave conditions by systematically changing the amount of beach sand at the foot of steep model cliffs of the same slope and strength. Cliff erosion occurred when the beach material at the cliff/beach junction was moved by waves. Turbulence created by bores rushing up on the beach mobilized the sand and exerted a mechanical shearing force on the cliff face using the sand as an abrasive. The analysis of results indicated that the effect of the abrasive doubled when the cliff/beach junction was located above Still Water Level (SWL) as compared to when it was below SWL. The assailing force of the sediment-laden water masses was proportional to the square of the bore speed immediately in front of the cliff face. The factor of proportionality is related to the quantity of beach sand entrapped in the turbulent fluid.  相似文献   

15.
Wave‐equation based shot‐record migration provides accurate images but is computationally expensive because every shot must be migrated separately. Shot‐encoding migration, such as random shot‐encoding or plane‐wave migration, aims to reduce the computational cost of the imaging process by combining the original data into synthesized common‐source gathers. Random shot‐encoding migration and plane‐wave migration have different and complementary features: the first recovers the full spatial bandwidth of the image but introduces strong artefacts, which are due to the interference between the different shot wavefields; the second provides an image with limited spatial detail but is free of crosstalk noise. We design a hybrid scheme that combines linear and random shot‐encoding in order to limit the drawbacks and merge the advantages of these two techniques. We advocate mixed shot‐encoding migration through dithering of plane waves. This approach reduces the crosstalk noise relative to random shot‐encoding migration and increases the spatial bandwidth relative to conventional plane‐wave migration when the take‐off angle is limited to reduce the duration of the plane‐wave gather. In turn, this decreases the migration cost. Migration with dithered plane waves operates as a hybrid encoding scheme in‐between the end members represented by plane‐wave migration and random shot‐encoding. Migration with dithered plane waves has several advantages: every synthesized common‐source gather images in a larger aperture, the crosstalk noise is limited and higher spatial resolution is achievable compared to shot‐record migration, random shot‐encoding and linear shot‐encoding, respectively. Computational cost is also reduced relative to both random and linear shot‐encoding migration since fewer synthesized common‐source gathers are necessary to obtain a high signal‐to‐noise ratio and high spatial resolution in the final image.  相似文献   

16.
This study investigates the recovery capabilities of a single-barred beach in the Pacific Mexican coast before and after the 2015–2016 El Niño winter. Concurrent hydrodynamic and morphological data collected over a 3-year period (August 2014–2017) were analysed to determine the subaerial-subtidal volumetric exchange and cross-shore subtidal sandbar migrations, in relation to the incident wave forcing. The beach presented a seasonal seaward and landward sandbar migration cycle. The sandbar migrated offshore during the energetic waves between November and February, and onshore during the milder wave period in spring, until welding to the subaerial beach around May. The transfer of sediment towards the subaerial section continued over the summer, reaching a complete recovery by September/October. Prior to El Niño, the subaerial beach successfully recovered by the end of summer 2015 through the landward sandbar migration process. The 2015–2016 energetic winter waves caused a subaerial volume loss of ~ 140 m3 m?1 (from October 2015 to March 2016), more than twice the amount eroded in the other winters, and the sandbar moved further offshore and to deeper depths (3–4 m) than the winter before. In addition, the energetic 2015–2016 winter waves lasted for 2 months longer than in other years, making the 2016 spring shorter. Consequently, during the onshore migration, the sandbar was unable of reaching shallow depths, and a large portion of sand remained in the subtidal beach. The subaerial beach recovered 60 and 65% of the loss in the 2016 and 2017 summers, respectively. It is concluded that the landward migration process of the sandbar during the spring is critical to ensure a full subaerial beach recovery over the mild wave period in summer. The recovery capabilities of the subaerial beach will depend on the cross-shore distance and depth where the sandbar is located, and on the duration of mild wave conditions required for the sandbar to migrate onshore.  相似文献   

17.
A volume-of-fluid Navier–Stokes solver (RIPPLE) was used to simulate inner surf and swash zone flow with a 3 s wave period and wave height of 0.14 m on a planar, 1:10 sloping beach (Iribarren number of 1.0). In addition to other hydrodynamic information, RIPPLE was used to provide high-resolution predictions of the pressure gradient and fluid velocity in the horizontal and vertical dimensions that served as forcing to a discrete particle model (DPM). Sediment transport processes in the inner surf and swash zones were simulated for a thin veneer of sediment particles over a 5 m test section in the DPM. Coupling between RIPPLE and the DPM was one-way such that particle–particle and fluid–particle interactions in the DPM did not provide feedback to alter the flow predicted by RIPPLE. The numerical simulation showed strong sediment suspension localized under vortices that reach the bed. Interestingly, the bulk of the sediment located in the small-scale vortex originated from locations nearly 0.2 m landward. These findings suggest that (1) sediment motion for a single swash event can be significant, (2) that sediment measured in suspension likely originates from locations other than the bed directly below the suspension plume suggesting the importance of sediment advection and (3) that sparse cross-shore measurements in the field will only sporadically capture localized suspension events.  相似文献   

18.
Bed load transport by bed form migration   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  
A theoretically-based methodology is presented for the determination of bed load transport from high-resolution measurements of bed surface elevations for steady-state or developing dunes. The methodology is based on the general form of the Exner equation for sediment continuity and requires information on the distribution of sediment volume concentration as well as the migration velocity of bed layers. In order to determine layer speeds, a new method based on cross-correlation analysis of elevation slices is proposed. The methodology is tested using artificially-created data as well as data from a physical model and from a flume study of developing bed forms. The analyses show the applicability of the method to determine bed load transport without the need to introduce assumptions about the form of the migrating surface. It is shown that predicted transport rates match measured or theoretical transport rates for steadily moving bed forms of an arbitrary shape. The method can also be used to predict transport rates over deforming bed forms, with the reasons for potential deviations between predicted and measured or theoretical transport rates for deforming bed forms identified and discussed. It is further shown that a simplified bulk-surface approach, that is relatively straightforward to apply and in which it is assumed that bed-layer velocity is constant with depth, gives results that are comparable to analyses based on determined bed-layer velocity variation with depth.  相似文献   

19.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
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