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基于一维阻尼潮波传播方程解析解,从求解数值格式及Heuristic稳定性分析方面,讨论了数值解的精度、计算耗时和摩阻系数选取等问题。研究结果表明:1)Courant数小于1时,潮波方程显格式解的精度略高于隐格式解,计算耗时少于隐格式解;2)为减少计算耗时,潮波方程的隐格式解允许较大的时间步长,但解的精度有所降低,须通过减小底床摩阻系数以保证计算精度;3)隐格式解摩阻系数的选取与Courant数有关,Courant数越大,摩阻系数的选取值比实际值越小,通过理论分析结合数值试验得到了相应的关系式。这些研究结论对实际海域的潮波传播的数值模拟具有重要的应用价值。 相似文献
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长江口水域波浪数值计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用高阶非线性抛物型缓坡方程对长江口水域的波浪传播变形作了推算,依据测站的资料分析数值模式中的底摩阻因子和风能输入因子对波浪传播的影响,进而确定其参数。针对不同导堤结构型式,分析了潜堤的波浪传递系数,最后对长江口二期整治工程完成后水域的波浪场作了推算。 相似文献
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基于激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型对岛礁地形上波浪传播的数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
为了探究激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型在模拟岛礁地形上规则波和不规则波传播的可行性,采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程并具有激波捕捉能力的数值模型Funwave-TVD对规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播进行了数值模拟,通过与试验数据对比,分析模型中空间步长的影响,验证模型在模拟波高、平均水位分布以及波谱空间演变的能力,结果表明:采用合适的空间步长,模型能较好地模拟规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播和演化过程。对于规则波,较小的空间步长可改善破碎点处波高峰值的预测,并能更好地预测波浪破碎后波高的空间分布,相比结合经验破碎的Boussinesq模型,Funwave-TVD能更好地模拟规则波在岛礁地形上的破碎,以及破碎以后行进涌波的再生成过程;对于不规则波,Funwave-TVD总体而言能较好地模拟涌浪有效波高、次重力波的生成及空间演化和平均水位,但会低估礁坪上次重力波波高,较粗的空间步长也会低估礁坪上涌浪有效波高。 相似文献
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江苏大丰潮间带粉砂滩的潮流边界层特征 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对江苏大丰潮间带粉砂滩的潮流观测数据，运用Karman-parndtl模型分析了流速对数剖面的出现频率和边界层参数（摩阻流速与粗糙长度）。结果表明，不同时间尺度（10^1-10^3s）的平均流速对计算u-lnz线性关系出现频率的影响不大，而不同层位组合的影响较为显著，影响流速对数剖面分布的自然因素为波浪、风、潮流旋转、表底层流向差异、滩面坡度和水流加减速等。相邻层位的流速在时间序列上存在很高的线性关系，回归直线的斜率与水层距底床的高度、粗糙长度和摩阻流速有关。涨潮阶段床面粗糙长度大于落潮阶段，涨潮阶段摩阻流速小于落潮阶段。 相似文献
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破碎波对近海海岸地形以及海岸建筑物影响强烈,通过物理模型实验对孤立波、规则波作用下破碎带的床面形态以及孔隙水压力进行分析。破碎波冲击海床,破碎处床面上形成沙坝和沙坑,与规则波相比,孤立波破碎时对床面的冲刷更加剧烈,床面形成的沙坝和沙坑尺度更大,且土体内孔隙水压力幅值也较大。同时研究了波面变化对孔隙水压力的影响,发现波面变化历时曲线与孔隙水压力历时曲线相似,与孔隙水压力梯度历时曲线更为相似,说明波面变化更能反映海床内部孔隙水压力梯度的变化。通过探讨波浪与海床之间相互耦合作用,发现破碎带地形变化使得波浪出现不同破碎类型,分析得出卷破波比崩破波作用下孔隙水压力幅值大。 相似文献
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A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used. 相似文献
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考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。 相似文献
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In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
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海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。 相似文献
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LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
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LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。 相似文献
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A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient. 相似文献
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Numerical simulation of breaking wave generated sediment suspension and transport process based on CLSVOF algorithm 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The sediment suspension and transport process under complex breaking wave situation is investigated using large eddy simulation （abbreviated as LES hereafter） method. The coupled level set （LS） and volume of fluid （VOF） method is used to accurately capture the evolution of air？water interface. The wall effect at the bottom is modeled based on the wave friction term while the complicate bottom boundary condition for sediment is tackled using Chou and Fringer’s sediment erosion and deposition flux method. A simulation is carried out to study the sediment suspension and transport process under periodic plunging breaking waves. The comparison between the results by CLSVOF method and those obtained by the LS method is given. It shows that the latter performs as well as the CLSVOF method in the pre-breaking weak-surface deformation situation. However, a serious mass conservation problem in the later stages of wave breaking makes it inappropriate for this study by use of the LS method and thus the CLSVOF method is suggested. The flow field and the distribution of suspended sediment concentration are then analyzed in detail. At the early stage of breaking, the sediment is mainly concentrated near the bottom area. During the wave breaking process, when the entrapped large-scale air bubble travels downward to approach the bottom, strong shear is induced and the sediment is highly entrained. 相似文献
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Ching-Piao Tsai Hong-Bin Chen Hwung-Hweng Hwung Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483
Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index. 相似文献
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Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed. 相似文献