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1.
The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods. 相似文献
2.
Experimental Study on the Bed Shear Stress Under Breaking Waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice. 相似文献
3.
Dag Myrhaug 《Coastal Engineering》1995,24(3-4)
The effect of random waves on the bottom friction is studied by assuming that the wave motion is a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. The approach is also based on simple explicit friction coefficient formulas for sinusoidal waves. The probability distribution functions of the maximum bottom shear stress for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow are presented. The maximum bottom shear stress follows the Rayleigh distribution for laminar flow and the Weibull distribution for smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow. Some characteristic statistical values of the maximum bottom shear stress for the three flow regimes are also given. 相似文献
4.
Shutang Zhu 《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(12):535
This paper presents a transfer function method (TFM) which can separate a regular wave field into incident and reflected waves based on the linear wave theory. The TFM uses specific transfer functions and corresponding convolution integrals to separate time series data measured in a combined partial standing wave system into incident and reflected waves. After this separation, estimation of the reflection coefficient becomes very easy. All manipulations have been performed in time domain. Furthermore, this method does not involve the calculation of wave heights and/or phase differences. The present method is demonstrated through numerical sample and physical model experiments carried out in a wave flume. Compared with other methods, the TFM gives much better estimates of the incident wave heights for physical model experiments in this study. 相似文献
5.
Shear stresses on a rough seabed under irregular waves plus current are calculated. Parameterized models valid for regular waves plus current have been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh-distributed. Numerical estimates of the probability distribution functions are presented. For waves only, the shear stress maxima follow a Weibull distribution, while for waves plus current, both the maximum and time-averaged shear stresses are well represented by a three-parameter Weibull distribution. The behaviour of the maximum shear stresses under a wide range of wave-current conditions has been investigated, and it appears that under certain conditions, the current has a significant influence on the maximum shear stresses. Results of comparison between predictions and measurements of the maximum bottom shear stresses from laboratory and field experiments are presented. 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):181-190
Two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer. These Boussinesq-type equations were written in terms of the horizontal velocity components evaluated at an arbitrary elevation in the water depth and the free surface displacement. The leading order effects of the bottom boundary layer were represented by a convolution integral in the depth-integrated continuity equation. To test the validity of the theory, a set of laboratory experiments was performed to measure the viscous damping and shoaling of a solitary wave propagating in a wave tank. The time histories of the free surface profiles were measured at several locations along the centerline of the flume. To compare these laboratory data with theoretical results, the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations were integrated across the wave tank, resulting in a set of one-dimensional equations, while the side-wall boundary layers were properly considered. The agreement between the experimental data and numerical results was very good. The bottom shear stress formula was also given and its impact on the sediment transport rate was discussed. 相似文献
7.
A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 相似文献
8.
9.
1.IntroductionGreat efforts have been devoted to the protection of coastal areas over many years by erectingdikes,seawalls,groin systems,and detached breakwaters.The sea walls,jetties,detached breakwa-ters,etc.are traditionally adopted as absorbingfacilit… 相似文献
10.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):395-417
This paper is the second part of the work presented by Garcia et al. [Garcia, N., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2004. 2-D numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 51 (10), 991–1020]. In the mentioned paper, flow conditions at low-crested rubble-mound breakwaters under regular wave attack were examined, using a combination of measured data of free surface, bottom pressure and fluid velocities from small-scale experiments and numerical results provided by a VOF-type model (COBRAS) based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations. This paper demonstrates the capability of the COBRAS model to reproduce irregular wave interaction with submerged permeable breakwaters. Data provided by the numerical model are compared to experimental data of laboratory tests, and the main processes of wave–structure interaction are examined using both experimental and numerical results. The numerical model validation is carried out in two steps. First, the procedure of irregular wave generation is verified to work properly, comparing experimental and numerical data of different cases of irregular wave trains propagating over a flat bottom. Next, the validation of the numerical model for wave interaction with submerged rubble-mound breakwaters is performed through the simulation of small-scale laboratory tests on different incident wave spectra. Results show that the numerical model adequately reproduces the main aspects of the interaction of random waves with submerged porous breakwaters, especially the spectral energy decay at the structure and the spectrum broadening past the structure. The simulations give good results in terms of height envelopes, mean level, spectral shape, root-mean-square height for both free surface displacement and dynamic pressure inside the breakwater. Moreover, large-scale simulations have been conducted, on both regular and irregular incident wave conditions. The overall pattern of the wave interaction with a large-scale submerged breakwater is adequately reproduced by the numerical model. The processes of wave reflection, shoaling and breaking are correctly captured. The good results achieved at a near prototype scale are promising regarding the use of the numerical model for design purposes. 相似文献
11.
A high-quality experimental study including a large number of tests which correspond to full-scale coastal boundary layer flows is conducted using an oscillating water tunnel for flow generations and a Particle Image Velocimetry system for velocity measurements. Tests are performed for sinusoidal, Stokes and forward-leaning waves over three fixed bottom roughness configurations, i.e. smooth, “sandpaper” and ceramic-marble bottoms. The experimental results suggest that the logarithmic profile can accurately represent the boundary layer flows in the very near-bottom region, so the log-profile fitting analysis can give highly accurate determinations of the theoretical bottom location and the bottom roughness. The first-harmonic velocities of both sinusoidal and nonlinear waves, as well as the second-harmonic velocities of nonlinear waves, exhibit similar patterns of vertical variation. Two dimensionless characteristic boundary layer thicknesses, the elevation of 1% velocity deficit and the elevation of maximum amplitude, are found to have power-law dependencies on the relative roughness for rough bottom tests. A weak boundary layer streaming embedded in nonlinear waves and a small but meaningful third-harmonic velocity embedded in sinusoidal waves are observed. They can be only explained by the effect of a time-varying turbulent eddy viscosity. The measured period-averaged vertical velocities suggest the presence of Prandtl's secondary flows of the second kind in the test channel. Among the three methods to infer bottom shear stress from velocity measurements, the Reynolds stress method underestimates shear stress due to missed turbulent eddies, and the momentum integral method also significantly underestimates bottom shear stress for rough bottom tests due to secondary flows, so only the log-profile fitting method is considered to yield the correct estimate. The obtained bottom shear stresses are analyzed to give the maximum and the first three harmonics, and the results are used to validate some existing theoretical models. 相似文献
12.
利用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟极限波浪运动的完全非线性数值模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性自由水面条件.采用半混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪流体瞬时水面,运用四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新下一时间步的波面和速度势,同时应用镜像格林函数消除水槽两个侧面和底面上的积分.研究中利用波浪聚焦的方法产生极限波浪,并且在水槽中开展了物理模型实验,将测点试验数据与数值结果进行了对比,两者吻合得很好.对极限波浪运动的非线性和流域内速度分布进行了研究. 相似文献
13.
利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
14.
Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model,a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes.Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave’s run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules.To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes,several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum.It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas,other numerical results and experimental data. 相似文献
15.
研究了波致底切应力和二维辐射应力对悬沙的作用.首先对东山湾的水动力进行了数值模拟并与实测资料进行了对比检验,然后对东山湾悬浮泥沙进行了考虑波浪和不考虑波浪两种情况下的数值模拟并与实测资料进行了相关对比分析.在模式建立过程中,依据东山湾独特的窄口型半封闭河口海湾的特点,基于ECOMSED模式（2002）建立了东山湾三维水动力模型,并通过第三代海浪模式MASNUM加入了波浪对底切应力及辐射应力的影响,通过ECOMSED中的底边界层模型考虑了波浪增强底摩擦的作用,综合分析了东山湾的水动力及泥沙状况.结果表明在东山湾数值模拟中,该模式能较好地模拟这类海域的水动力及泥沙输运状况.在东山湾模拟计算中,潮流的作用强于波浪的作用,但考虑波浪因素后,泥沙模拟结果更好.在波浪的作用中,底切应力相比于二维辐射应力占有绝对的优势,两者相差2个量级以上,因此可以不考虑二维辐射应力的影响. 相似文献
16.
The results of direct numerical simulations of the boundary layer generated at the bottom of a solitary wave are described. The numerical results, which agree with the laboratory measurements of Sumer et al. (2010) show that the flow regime in the boundary layer can be laminar, laminar with coherent vortices and turbulent. The average velocity and bottom shear stress are computed and the results obtained show that the logarithmic law can approximate the velocity profile only in a restricted range of the parameters and at particular phases of the wave cycle. Moreover, the maximum value of the bottom shear stress is found to depend on the dimensionless wave height only, while the minimum (negative) value depends also on the dimensionless boundary layer thickness. Diagrams and simple formulae are proposed to evaluate the minimum and maximum bottom shear stresses and their phase shift with respect to the wave crest. 相似文献
17.
A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations. 相似文献
18.
In this study, the dynamic stresses within the seabed induced by non-linear progressive waves were explored through a series of hydraulic model tests on a movable bed within a wave flume. By comparing Stokes’ 2nd-order wave theory with the theory of wave-induced dynamic stresses within the seabed as proposed by Yamamoto et al. [1978. On the response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 87 (1), 193–206.] and Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807], the experimental results show that the pressure on the seabed surface, the pore water pressure within the seabed as well as the vertical and the horizontal stresses are all smaller than their theoretical values. If we were to obtain the characteristics of seabed soil, the analytical solution of Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807] might agree to the simulation of the wave-induced effective stresses and shear stress in the sandy seabed. A different phase shift exists among all the three soil stresses. Their influences on the three dynamic stresses within seabed soil are important for seabed stability, and can be used in the verification of numerical models. In the whole, the non-linear progressive waves and the naturally deposited seabed are found to have a strong interaction, and the behavior of the induced dynamic stresses within the seabed is very complicated, and should be investigated integrally. 相似文献
19.
The unsteady, two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the exact free surface boundary conditions were solved to study the interaction of a solitary wave and a submerged dike. A piston-type wavemaker was set up in the computational domain to produce the incident solitary waves. The incident wave and the associated boundary layer flow in a wave tank with a flat bed were compared with the analytical solutions to verify the accuracy of this numerical scheme. Effects of the incident wave height and the size of the dike on the wave transformation, the flow fields, and the drag forces on the dike were discussed. Our numerical results showed that even though the induced local shear stress on the top surface of the dike is large at some particular locations, the resultant pressure drag is much larger than the friction drag. The primary vortex generated at the lee side of the dike and the secondary vortex at the right toe of the dike may scour the bottom and cause a severe problem for the dike. 相似文献
20.
The numerical investigation of random wave slamming on superstructures of marine structures in the splash zone is presented in this paper. The impact pressures on the underside of the structure are computed based on the improved volume of fluid method (VOF). The governing equations are Reynolds time-averaged equations and the two equation k– model. The third order upwind difference scheme is applied to the convection term to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The numerical wave flume with random wave-maker suitable for VOF is established. Appropriate moving contact-line boundary conditions are introduced to the model wave in contact with and separated from the underside of structure. Parametric studies have been carried out for different incident waves, structure dimensions and structure clearance. The numerical results are verified by the experimental results. 相似文献