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1.
To develop a simple method to predict the significant wave height, we analyze 18 years of hourly observations from 12 different buoys that are off the northeast coast of the United States. Water depths ranged from 19 to 4427 m for these moored buoys. We find that, on average, all of these buoys exhibit a region of constant wave height for 10-m wind speeds between 0 and 4 m s−1. That wave height does, however, depend on water depth. For wind speeds above 4 m s–1, the wave height increases as the square of the wind speed; but the multiplicative factor is again a function of water depth. We synthesize these results in a prediction scheme that yields the significant wave height from simple functions of water depth and 10-m wind speed for wind speeds up to 25 m s–1.  相似文献   

2.
The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

3.
Data on the temporal variability of sea wave spectral components in the frequency range 1–8 Hz, collected by a drifting vessel in the Pacific ocean (wind speed 1–10 m/s), are discussed in this paper. For the frequency range 3–6 Hz (wind speed 5–8 m/s), a weak variability of the ripples is observed, synchronous with long waves; in the remaining part of the spectral range studied the fluctuations are fortuitous. It is concluded that the wind plays a crucial role in forming the ripples' fluctuation characteristics in the high-frequency part of the spectrum.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

4.
Observed critical wind speeds for the generation of wind waves are compared with those derived from a shear-flow instability theory. The theory predicts that the critical wind speed depends on the fetch and, for the case of infinite fetch, it is 93 cm s–1 at 30 cm above the mean water surface, which agrees well with observations at sufficiently large fetch. For water containing soap, the much larger critical wind speeds which are observed cannot be explained by the reduction of surface tension alone. A qualitative discussion suggests that the elasticity of surface films of soap can effectively increase the critical wind speed.  相似文献   

5.
In order to validate wind vectors derived from the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT), two NSCAT wind products of different spatial resolutions are compared with observations by buoys and research vessels in the seas around Japan. In general, the NSCAT winds agree well with the wind data from the buoys and vessels. It is shown that the root-mean-square (rms) difference between NSCAT-derived wind speeds and the buoy observations is 1.7 ms–1, which satisfies the mission requirement of accuracy, 2 ms–1. However, the rms difference of wind directions is slightly larger than the mission requirement, 20°. This result does not agree with those of previous studies on validation of the NSCAT-derived wind vectors using buoy observations, and is considered to be due to differences in the buoy observation systems. It is also shown that there are no significant systematic trends of the NSCAT wind speed and direction depending on the wind speed and incidence angle. Comparison with ship winds shows that the NSCAT wind speeds are lower than those observed by the research vessels by about 0.7 ms–1 and this bias is twice as large for data observed by moving ships than by stationary ships. This result suggests that the ship winds may be influenced by errors caused by ship's motion, such as pitching and rolling.  相似文献   

6.
Jin-Bao Song   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(17-18):2435-2453
Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied.  相似文献   

7.
The moored three-float line absorber WEC M4 has been developed to optimise power capture through experiments and linear diffraction modelling. With the progression down wave from small to medium to large floats, the device heads naturally into the wave direction. The bow and mid floats are rigidly connected by a beam and a beam from the stern float is connected to the hinge point above the mid float for power take off (PTO). Increasing the bow to mid float spacing to be more than 50% greater than the mid to stern float spacing has been found to improve power capture. To increase power capture further and potentially reduce electricity generation cost the number of mid floats and stern floats is increased while maintaining a single bow float for mooring connection. The bow and mid floats still form a rigid body while the stern floats may respond independently. A time domain linear diffraction model based on Cummins method has been applied to configurations of 121, 123, 132, 133, and 134 floats where the numbers indicate the number of floats: bow, mid, stern. This shows how power capture is increased while response remains similar. We only consider uni-directional (long-crested) waves with narrow band width typical of swell. By considering scatter diagrams for various offshore sites capacities may range from 3.7 MW to 17.3 MW for the eight float system with a capacity factor of 1/3 while the cost of electricity assuming capital cost to be a fixed multiple of steel cost is reduced from that for the three-float system.  相似文献   

8.
The degree to which incident wind waves are attenuated over intertidal surfaces is critical to the development of coastal wetlands, which are, amongst other processes, affected by the delivery, erosion, and/or resuspension of sediment due to wave action. Knowledge on wave attenuation over saltmarsh surfaces is also essential for accurate assessments of their natural sea-defence value to be made and incorporated into sea defence and management schemes. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the use of a digital photographic method for the quantification of marsh vegetation density and then to investigate the relative roles played by hydrodynamic controls and vegetation density/type in causing the attenuation of incident waves over a macro-tidal saltmarsh.Results show that a significant statistical relationship exists between the density of vegetation measured in side-on photographs and the dry biomass of the photographed vegetation determined through direct harvesting. The potential of the digital photographic method for the spatial and temporal comparison of marsh surface vegetation biomass, density, and canopy structure is highlighted and the method was applied to assess spatial and seasonal differences in vegetation density and their effect on wave attenuation at three locations on a macro-tidal saltmarsh on Dengie Peninsula, Essex, UK. In this environmental setting, vegetation density/type did not have a significant direct effect on wave attenuation but modified the process of wave transformation under different hydrodynamic conditions. At the two locations, characterised by a relatively tall canopy (15–26 cm) with biomass values of 430–500 g m−2, dominated by Spartina spp. (>70% of total dry biomass), relative incident wave height (wave height/water depth) is identified as a statistically significant dominant positive control on wave attenuation up to a threshold value of 0.55, beyond which wave attenuation showed no significant further increase. At the third location, characterised by only slightly less biomass (398 g m−2) but a shorter (6 cm) canopy of the annual Salicornia spp., no significant relationship existed between wave attenuation and relative wave height. Seasonally (between September and December) significant temporal increase/decrease in vegetation density occurred in one of the Spartina canopies and in the Salicornia canopy, respectively, and led to an expected (but not statistically significant) increase/decrease in wave attenuation. The wider implications of these findings in the context of form–process interactions on saltmarshes and their effect on marsh evolution are also discussed.  相似文献   

9.
南黄海海底沉积物声学特性及其影响因素试验研究   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：3  
利用自南黄海中西部海底取回的沉积物样品,对其声学特性及其影响因素进行了试验研究,结果显示,研究区海底沉积物的压缩波速为1.359 ~1.695 km/s,剪切波速为12.5 ~70.9 m/s;颗粒较细的沉积物与较低的压缩波速、剪切波速对应,主要集中在研究区东侧水深较深处;沉积物的物理力学性质对其压缩波速、剪切波速的影响较显著,沉积物的温度和换能器的频率对上述声学两参数也具有一定的影响,而沉积物的包含物及薄夹层等影响声波传播的理论计算结果。给出了研究区海底沉积物物理力学各参数与压缩波速、剪切波速之间的回归方程,以期为国防、工程提供基础资料。  相似文献   

10.
We analyze the time-longitude structure of composite cases from model-assimilated ocean data in the period 1958–1998, following on from earlier work by Huang and Kinter (J. Geophys. Res. 107(C11) (2002) 3199) that studied east–west thermocline variability in the Indian Ocean. Our analysis focuses on the Rossby wave signal along the thermocline ridge in the tropical SW Indian Ocean (10°S, 60–80°E), where wind stress curl is important. Anomalous winds in the equatorial east Indian Ocean force successive Rossby waves westward at speeds of 0.1 m s−1±30%. With a wavelength of 7000 km, the period of oscillation is in the range 1.9–5.2 years. The Indian Ocean Rossby wave is partially resonant with the global influence of the El Nino–Southern Oscillation, except during quasi-biennial rhythm. The presence of the Rossby wave offers potential predictability for east–west atmospheric circulation systems and climate that affect resources in countries surrounding the Indian Ocean.  相似文献   

11.
A new technique in the analysis of wind–wave interaction, wavelet bicoherence, will be applied in this article. Wavelet bicohence has the ability to detect phase coupling and nonlinear interactions of the quadratic order with time resolution. It is used in this study to analyze wind–wave interaction during wave growth in a Mistral event. A selected record of simultaneously measured wind and wave data during Mistral is divided into five segments and the computations of the wavelet bicoherence are conducted for the whole record and for all divided segments. The results show that the phase coupling occurs between wind speed and wave height over a certain range of frequencies and that the range is different from one segment to another due to the non-stationary feature of the time series.  相似文献   

12.
A new fuel consumption monitoring system was set up for research purpose in order to evaluate the energy performance of fishing vessels under different operating conditions. The system has been tested on two semi-pelagic pair trawlers in the Adriatic Sea with an engine power of around 900 kW, and with length overall of around 30 m. Both vessels work with a gear of similar design and size, the differences between the two vessels are in the propeller design and the hull material: the first with a controllable pitch propeller (CPP) and a metal hull, the second with a fixed pitch propeller (FPP) and a wooden hull. The fuel monitoring system conceived at CNR-ISMAR Ancona (Italy) consists of two mass flow sensors, one multichannel recorder and one GPS data logger. The working time duration, the vessel speed, the total fuel consumption and the instant fuel rate were logged by the system. A typical commercial round trip for a semi-pelagic trawler consists of several fishing operations (steaming, trawling sailing, etc.). Fuel consumption rate and vessel speed data were used to identify energy performance under different vessel-operating conditions. The highest fuel demands were during the trawling (130 l/h at 4.4 kn) and the steaming (100–130 l/h at 11 kn) phases. Fuel savings of up to 15% could be obtained by reducing the navigation speed of half a knot.  相似文献   

13.
Mesoscale eddies and tropical instability waves in the eastern tropical Pacific, first revealed by satellite infrared imagery, play an important role in the dynamics and biology of the region, and in the transfer of mass, energy, heat, and biological constituents from the shelf to the deep ocean and across the equatorial currents.From boreal late autumn to early spring, four to 18 cyclonic or anticyclonic eddies are formed off the coastal region between southern Mexico and Panama. The anticyclonic gyres, which tend to be larger and last longer than the cyclonic ones, are the best studied: they typically are 180–500 km in diameter, depress the pycnocline from 60 to 145 m at the eddy center, have swirl speeds in excess of 1 m s−1, migrate west at velocities ranging from 11 to 19 cm s−1 (with a slight southward component), and maintain a height signature of up to 30 cm. The primary generating agents for these eddies are the strong, intermittent wind jets that blow across the isthmus of Tehuantepec in Mexico, the lake district in Nicaragua and Costa Rica, and the Panama canal. Other proposed eddy-generating mechanisms are the conservation of vorticity as the North Equatorial Counter Current (NECC) turns north on reaching America, and the instability of coastally trapped waves/currents.Tropical Instability Waves (TIWs) are perturbations in the SST fronts on either side of the equatorial cold tongue. They produce SST variations on the order of 1–2 °C, have periods of 20–40 days, wavelengths of 1000–2000 km, phase speeds of around 0.5 m s−1 and propagate westward both north and south of the Equator. The Tropical Instability Vortices (TIVs) are a train of westward-propagating anticyclonic eddies associated with the TIWs. They exhibit eddy currents exceeding 1.3 m s−1, a westward phase propagation speed between 30 and 40 km d−1, a signature above the pycnocline, and eastward energy propagation. Like the TIWs, they result from the latitudinal barotropically unstable shear between the South Equatorial Current (SEC) and the NECC with a potential secondary source of energy from baroclinic instability of the vertical shear with the Equatorial Undercurrent (EUC).This review of mesoscale processes is part of a comprehensive review of the oceanography of the eastern tropical Pacific Ocean.  相似文献   

14.
Boundary layer observations were made over the Gulf of Mexico over a 3-year period in order to develop and test methods for estimating surface fluxes and boundary layer wind fields. In addition to routinely available buoy and CMAN surface data, six 915 MHz radar wind profilers (RWPs) and RASS profilers were mounted on oil platforms and on the shore. Estimates of surface momentum, sensible heat, and latent heat fluxes have been made from the surface observations using the COARE software. Simulations by the National Weather Service's Eta meteorological model are compared with the observations of surface fluxes and wind profiles. The boundary layer is found to be unstable over 90% of the time, and latent heat fluxes are about five to ten times larger than sensible heat fluxes, as usually found over tropical oceans. Eta model simulations of surface fluxes are within about ±50% of COARE estimates of the fluxes based on surface observations. Most of the time, COARE-derived fluxes at 11 sites are within a factor of two of each other at any given hour. In multi-day case studies, COARE calculations are found to agree with Eta model simulations of these fluxes and parameters within a factor of two most of the time. Eta model simulations of wind speeds in the boundary layer tend to exceed the RWP observations by 1–2 m s−1 near shore and by 2–6 m s−1 at distances of 100–200 km offshore.  相似文献   

15.
Recently it has been observed that a strong quantitative relationship exists between asymptotic fluxes of particulate organic carbon (POC) to the deep ocean and asymptotic fluxes of “ballast” minerals (opal; calcium carbonate; dust). It has further been suggested that this relationship might provide a mechanistic basis for improved representations of remineralization in ocean carbon models. Since the depth scale of remineralization z* is the ratio k/v of a remineralization rate k and a settling velocity (SV) v, a mechanistic understanding of settling velocities will be crucial in developing such models.Historically, there have been two approaches to estimating the speed with which POC is transported to the deep ocean. First, settling speeds of single particles have been observed directly in both field and laboratory settings; estimates of fecal pellet sinking velocities tend to be higher and more variable than those of aggregates. Second, estimates have been made of the velocity at which temporal patterns in flux propagate between pairs of sediment traps separated in depth (the “benchmark approach”); recent studies have shown these results to be variable and to depend on mineral ballasting. Here we present SV estimates using a relatively new technology: indented rotating sphere (IRS) sediment traps run in settling velocity (SV) mode. In this approach, particles are separated into SV classes during settling to collection cups. In MedFlux, SV data were collected concurrently with time-series (TS) data; the latter were used to construct benchmark estimates for comparison to the SV estimates. From the SV data, the range of modal settling velocities (sinking velocities having the largest time-averaged mass flux densities on a logarithmic scale of SV) in the fast-sinking fraction was estimated to be 287–503 m/d; the average of these modal values is 353 m/d, with standard deviation 76 m/d. In contrast, mean settling velocities of the fast-sinking fraction depend on the range of settling velocity classes included in the estimate. If only SV classes settling at >50 m/d are included, the range of SVs at MedFlux was 214–298 m/d, with average mean value 242 m/d and standard deviation 31 m/d. These mean-velocity results are in excellent agreement with benchmark estimates of signal propagation velocities at Medflux (220±65 m/d); they are also well within the range of other recent benchmark studies. The agreement between the benchmark estimates and mean settling velocity estimates at MedFlux, but not with modal velocities, argues that the benchmark method estimates mean settling velocities.  相似文献   

16.
The concept of micro-bubble ejection is emerging as an attractive method for viscous drag reduction for high speed craft. Most of the drag reduction literature presents results for micro-bubble ejection above/below horizontal surfaces. Nevertheless, modern high-speed hull forms are slender with vertical surfaces. This paper presents results of model tests with micro-bubble ejection to the vertical sides of a high speed model with a non-wetting coating. The coating yielded drag reduction of 4–6% and micro-bubbles with coating reduced overall drag by 4–11%. The local coefficient of friction with micro-bubbles is analyzed and found comparable to vertical flat plate results of [Madavan et al., 1984].  相似文献   

17.
Prediction of wave parameters by using fuzzy logic approach   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between wind speed, previous and current wave characteristics. It is expected that such a non-linear relationship includes some uncertainties. A fuzzy inference system employing fuzzy IF–THEN rules has an ability to deal with ill-defined and uncertain systems. Compared with traditional approaches, fuzzy logic is more efficient in linking the multiple inputs to a single output in a non-linear domain. In this paper, a sophisticated intelligent model, based on Takagi–Sugeno (TS) fuzzy modeling principles, was developed to predict the changes in wave characteristics such as significant wave height and zero up-crossing period due to the wind speed. Past measurements of significant wave height values and wind speed variables are used for training the adaptive model and it is then employed to predict the significant wave height amounts for future time intervals such as 1, 3, 6 and 12 h. The verification of the proposed model is achieved through the wave characteristics time series plots and various numerical error criterias. Also the model results were compared with classical Auto Regressive Moving Average with exogenous input (ARMAX) models. For the application of the proposed approach the offshore station located in the Pacific Ocean was used.  相似文献   

18.
The main objectives of this study were to compare three wind-stress algorithms of varying intricacy and estimate the extent to which each method altered computed wind-stress curl. The algorithms included (1) a simple bulk formula for neutral conditions that is dependent only on wind velocity components; (2) a formula that in addition to dependence on wind components includes a simplified effect of thermal stability through differences in air and sea temperatures; and (3) an algorithm that includes full treatment of dynamics and atmospheric stability. Data for the analysis were from a field program that used a special buoy network off Bodega Bay during 28 June–4 August 2001.A diamond-shaped setup of five closely separated buoys in Bodega Bay allowed for one of the first attempts to compute wind-stress curl over the ocean using buoy measurements. Based on an analysis of the available dataset, the marine layer over Bodega Bay is characterized by positive wind-stress curl with a median value around 0.2 Pa (100 km)−1 and maximum values reaching 2.5 Pa (100 km)−1. Positive wind-stress curl was observed for all wind speed conditions, whereas negative wind-stress curl episodes were associated mostly with low-wind conditions.Comparison of wind-stress curl computed using the three algorithms showed that differences among them can be significant. The first and third algorithms indicated similar stress curl (difference around 10%), but the differences between these two and the second algorithm were much higher (approximately 40%). The reason for the difference is the stability correction, which in the third algorithm strongly decreases with an increase in wind speeds, but stays at a similar level for all wind speeds in the second algorithm. Consequently, for higher wind speeds the variability of wind stress calculated using the second algorithm is greater than for the other two algorithms, causing significant differences in computed wind-stress curl (root mean-square error equal to 0.19 Pa (100 km)−1).Despite the apparent biases in computed wind stress and wind-stress curl among the algorithms, all of them show a significant trend of decreasing sea-surface temperature (SST) with increasing wind-stress curl. The bootstrapping analysis has revealed that both the along-shore wind stress and wind-stress curl have noticeable correlation with the changes in the sea-surface temperature as an indirect indication of the upwelling. An additional analysis, based on the low-pass filtered data, showed also significant agreement between the measured divergence in the cross-shore surface transport and the wind-stress curl computed for all three algorithms.  相似文献   

19.
Turbulent wall pressure data acquired during tests of a full-scale experimental towed array over a range of tow speeds in straight tows and turns is presented. The experimental towed array contained a linear array of sensors mounted at the fluid–solid interface to measure the spectra of the wall pressure fluctuations due to the cylindrical turbulent boundary layer. The physics are dominated by the growth of a thick, high Reynolds number turbulent boundary layer at arc length Reynolds numbers as high as 9×108. The measured wavenumber-frequency spectra, autospectra, cross-spectral decay and convection velocities are presented. A well-defined convective ridge exists in the wavenumber-frequency spectra obtained during straight tows and turns. Turns give rise to a complicated fluid–structure interaction problem, but do not lead to the separation of the turbulent boundary layer. As the array moves through a turn, flow-induced vibrations of the array are shown to dominate the spectra at low frequencies, with more rapid decay in the measured coherence occurring at higher frequencies. The use of tow speed as a velocity scale is shown to collapse autospectra and convection velocities.  相似文献   

20.
Air-floating towing behaviors of multi-bucket foundation platform   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Air-floating towing beha viors of multi-bucket foundation plat form （MBFP） are investigated with the 1/20-scale model tests and hydrodynamic so ftware MOSES. MOSES numerical model was val idated by test results, and M OSES prototype model of MBFP can eliminate scale effect of model. The influences of towing factors of to wing speed, water depth, freeboard, and w ave direction on air-floating tow ing stability of MBFP were analyzed by model tests and validated MOSES prototype mod el. It is sho wn that the re duction of towing sp eed can effectively d ecrease the to wing force and surge acceleration to improve towing stability. Water depth is another f actor in towing s tability. Obvious shallow water effect will appear in shallow water with sma ll water depth-draft ratio and it w ill disappear gradually and air-floating towing becomes more stable with the increase of water depth. Accelerations of surge, s way and heave are small and they have modest changes when freeboard increases from 0.5 to 2 m. For MBFP, the freeboard is not suggested to be larger than 2 m in following wave. Wave direction has large influence on the towing stability, the surge acceleration and towing force are sensitive to the va riation of wave direction, the surge acceleration and towing force in following wave （0°） and counter wave （180°） are much larger than that in transverse sea （90°and 270°）.  相似文献   

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