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1.
An investigation into the prediction method for internal solitary waves (ISWs) loads on the columns and caissons of the semi-submersible platform found on three kinds of internal solitary wave theories and the modified Morison Equation is described. The characteristics of loads exerted on the semi-submersible platform model caused by the ISWs have been observed experimentally, and the inertial and drag coefficients in Morison Equation are determined by analyzing the forces of experiments. From the results, it is of interest to find that Reynolds number, KC number and layer thickness ratio have a considerable influence on the coefficients. The direction of incoming waves, however, is almost devoid of effects on the coefficients. The drag coefficient of columns varies as an exponential function of Reynolds number, and inertia coefficient of columns is a power function related to KC number. Meanwhile, the drag coefficient of caissons is approximately constant in terms of regression analysis of experimental data. The results from different experimental conditions reveal that the inertia coefficient of caissons appears to be exponential correlated with upper layer depths.
相似文献2.
As concluded from physical theory and laboratory experiment,it is widely accepted that nonlinearities of sea state play an important role in the formation of rogue waves;however,the sea states and corresponding nonlinearities of real-world rogue wave events remain poorly understood.Three rogue waves were recorded by a directional buoy located in the East China Sea during Typhoon Trami in August 2013.This study used the WAVEWATCHⅢmodel to simulate the sea state conditions pertaining to when and where those rogue waves were observed,based on which a comprehensive and full-scale analysis was performed.From the perspectives of wind and wave fields,wave system tracking,High-Order Spectral method simulation,and some characteristic sea state parameters,we concluded that the rogue waves occurred in sea states dominated by second-order nonlinearities.Moreover,third-order modulational instabilities were suppressed in these events because of the developed or fully developed sea state determined by the typhoon wave system.The method adopted in this study can provide comprehensive and full-scale analysis of rogue waves in the real world.The case studied in this paper is not considered unique,and rules could be found and confirmed in relation to other typhoon sea states through the application of our proposed method. 相似文献
3.
孙孚，男，出生于1941年7月21日，山东青岛人，汉族。1961年于山东师范大学物理系毕业，1985年于山东海洋学院物理海洋专业获我国授予的第一个海洋学理学博士学位。此后曾以高级学者身份赴加拿大英属哥伦比亚大学访问。现任青岛海洋大学海洋环境学院院长兼国家教委物理海洋部门开放研究实验室主任，教授，博士生导师，山东省专业技术拔尖人才，国家有突出贡献的中、青年专家，享受国务院颁发的政府特殊津贴。主要从事海浪理论与应用的教学和研究工作，近10余年在《中国科学人《科学通报人《海洋与湖沼人《海洋学报人忡国海洋湖沼学报》（英… 相似文献
4.
A series of three-dimensional numerical simulations is carried out to investigate the effect of inclined angle on flow behavior behind two side-by-side inclined cylinders at low Reynolds number Re=100 and small spacing ratio T/D=1.5 (T is the center-to-center distance between two side-by-side cylinders, D is the diameter of cylinder). The instantaneous and time-averaged flow fields, force coefficients and Strouhal numbers are analyzed. Special attention is focused on the axial flow characteristics with variation of the inclined angle. The results show that the inclined angle has a significant effect on the gap flow behaviors behind two inclined cylinders. The vortex shedding behind two cylinders is suppressed with the increase of the inclined angle as well as the flip-flop gap flow. Moreover, the mean drag coefficient, root-mean-square lift coefficient and Strouhal numbers decrease monotonously with the increase of the inclined angle, which follows the independent principle at small inclined angles. 相似文献
5.
《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》2004,29(4):1182-1199
In a recent study, satellite images have shown that internal solitons are active in the northern South China Sea (SCS). During the Asian Seas International Acoustic Experiment (ASIAEX) pilot studies, current profiler and thermistor chain moorings were deployed in the spring of 1999 and 2000 to investigate internal solitons northeast of Tung-Sha Island on the continental slope of the northern SCS. Most of the observed internal solitons were first baroclinic mode depression waves. The largest horizontal current velocity, vertical displacement, and temperature variation induced by the internal solitons were around 240 cm/s, 106 m, and 11/spl deg/C, respectively, while the estimated nonlinear phase speed was primarily westward at 152 /spl plusmn/ 4 cm/s. The observed internal solitons could be categorized as four types. The first type is the incoming wave from deep water and can be described reasonably well with the KdV equation. The second and third types are in the transition zone before and close to the turning point (where the upper and lower layer depths are equal), respectively. These two types of solitons were generally near the wave-breaking stage. The fourth type of soliton is a second baroclinic mode and probably was locally generated. The time evolutions are asymmetric, especially at the middle depths. A temperature kink following the main pulse of the soliton is often seen. Higher order nonlinear and shallow topographic effects could be the primary cause for these features. The appearance/disappearance of internal solitons coincides mostly with spring/neap tide. The internal soliton is irregularly seen during the neap tide period and its amplitude is generally small. The time interval between two leading solitons is generally around 12 h. The first baroclinic mode of the semidiurnal tide has a larger amplitude than the diurnal tide and could redistribute its energy into the soliton. 相似文献
6.
-Nonlinear tidal waves in a kind of estuary are studied in the paper using one-dimensional nonlinear hydrody-namic equations with friction. The estuary has exponentially varying width B=B0 e-bx and uniform depth h. The one-dimensional hydrodynamic equations are solved by perturbation method. It was found that our solution included two special cases, Pelisenpeki's solution and Airy's solution. The former can be got by letting b=0 in our solutions, and the latter by setting 6 = 0 and f= 0 (f is linear frictional coefficient). In terms of the second-order solution, the physical mechanism of nonlinear tidal waves in estuaries with gradually varying cross-section is explored. It is shown that, under the assumption of linear friction coefficient, shallow water constituent waves consist of two parts, one is produced by shallow water nonlinear effect outside the estuary, the other is generated by shallow water nonlinear effect inside estuary. In addition, the physical mechanism of the residual tidal current and 相似文献
7.
We analyze the results of measurements of currents in the trains of internal solitons on the New-York shelf of the Atlantic
Ocean performed in the course of the Joint US/Russia Internal Wave Remote Sensing Experiment (JUSREX). It was discovered that
the thermocline is characterized by an almost monotonic anticyclonic variation of the direction of orbital currents in the
trains of solitons but the direction of waves in each train is practically constant. As a rule, the current significantly
deviates to the left from the direction of waves in the leading soliton and approaches the indicated direction in the rear
solitons of the train. The angular rotation current velocity corresponded to periods varying within the range 12–24h and,
on the average, was close to the local inertial period. It is shown that this rotation cannot be caused by the distorting
influence of advection of background shear currents but, most likely, is connected with the unknown properties of internal
solitons in the rotating ocean.
Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev 相似文献
8.
Alessandra Romolo Giovanni Malara Giuseppe Barbaro Felice Arena 《Applied Ocean Research》2009,31(1):31-36
This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force Cdo is equal to the Cdv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force. 相似文献
9.
Paul A. Hwang 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(1):91-107
Depending on the choice of reference wind speed, the quantitative and qualitative properties of the drag coefficient may vary. On the ocean surface, surface waves are the physical roughness at the air-sea interface, and they play an important role in controlling the air-sea exchange processes. The degree of dynamic influence of surface waves scales with wavelength. Drag coefficient computed with the reference wind speed at an elevation proportional to the wavelength (for example, U
λ/2) is fundamentally different from the drag coefficient computed with the wind speed at fixed 10 m elevation (U
10). A comparison has been carried out to quantify the difference in wind stress computation using several different parameterization functions of the drag coefficient. The result indicates that the wind stress computed from U
10 input using a drag coefficient referenced to U
λ/2 is more accurate than that computed with drag coefficient functions referenced to U
10. 相似文献
10.
Study of interaction between intense internal wave solitons in the context of the Choi-Camassa model
K. A. Gorshkov L. A. Ostrovskii I. A. Soustova N. V. Zaitseva L. M. Shevts 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2011,47(3):336-349
Based on the approximated theory developed by the authors to describe the interaction of complex solitons that are formed by kinks, i.e., drops of fields of different polarity, the features of the dynamics of intense internal wave solitons are studied in the context of nonintegrable Choi-Camassa equations. These equations describe the evolution of long internal waves with arbitrary amplitudes in a two-layer fluid. Making allowance for the complex character of the limiting amplitude solitons made it possible to study the dynamics of their interaction as longitudinal (not pointlike) formations for the first time. A series of the features of soliton interaction caused by the complexity of their structure is discovered and explained. These include the appearance of solitary waves with opposite polarity in the collision process, anomalously large phase shifts, etc. The existence of these features is verified by numerical experiments in the context of internal wave models permitting the existence of complex solitons. 相似文献
11.
Experimental investigations on perforated hollow piles in two rows were conducted in a two dimensional wave flume. The influence of water depth, incident wave steepness, clear spacing between the piles and the spacing of pile rows on transmission coefficient have been studied. The effect of staggering of piles in rows is investigated. The results are also compared with the results of experiments on piles without perforations. The investigations have revealed that perforated piles attenuate more wave energy than non-perforated piles. The transmission coefficient Kt decreases as the wave steepness increases for both non-perforated and perforated piles. For non-perforated piles as relative clear spacing between the piles (b/D) decreases, for waves of higher steepness, Kt decreases while for perforated piles as b/D decreases, Kt is decreasing for all the steepness considered. As the relative clear spacing between the pile rows (B/D) increases Kt initially decreases till B/D is around one and later it starts increasing for both non-perforated and perforated piles. Staggering of piles has little effect on Kt. It is also found that water depth has insignificant influence on transmission coefficient at higher steepness for both perforated and non-perforated piles. Wave period alone does not directly influence transmission coefficient Kt. 相似文献
12.
Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over a rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A large number of studies have been done dealing with sinusoidal wave boundary layers in the past. However, ocean waves often have a strong asymmetric shape especially in shallow water, and net of sediment movement occurs. It is envisaged that bottom shear stress and sediment transport behaviors influenced by the effect of asymmetry are different from those in sinusoidal waves. Characteristics of the turbulent boundary layer under breaking waves (saw-tooth) are investigated and described through both laboratory and numerical experiments. A new calculation method for bottom shear stress based on velocity and acceleration terms, theoretical phase difference, φ and the acceleration coefficient, ac expressing the wave skew-ness effect for saw-tooth waves is proposed. The acceleration coefficient was determined empirically from both experimental and baseline k–ω model results. The new calculation has shown better agreement with the experimental data along a wave cycle for all saw-tooth wave cases compared by other existing methods. It was further applied into sediment transport rate calculation induced by skew waves. Sediment transport rate was formulated by using the existing sheet flow sediment transport rate data under skew waves by Watanabe and Sato [Watanabe, A. and Sato, S., 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate formula for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proc. of 29th ICCE, ASCE, pp. 1703–1714.]. Moreover, the characteristics of the net sediment transport were also examined and a good agreement between the proposed method and experimental data has been found. 相似文献
13.
Tokuo Yamamoto 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(2):93-130
Abstract The problem of forced vibration of a slightly inelastic porous bed by water waves is treated analytically on the basis of a linearized expression of the nonlinear damping term for the grain‐to‐grain friction in bed soils and the linear theory by Biot (1962a [Jour. Appl. Physics, 33:1482–1498]) on the elastic wave propagation in porous media. A dispersion relation of water waves is obtained as a function of wave frequency, water depth, permeability, Poisson's ratio, rigidity, and specific loss of bed soil. Three types of elastic waves are induced in a bed by water waves: a shear wave and a compressional wave in the skeletal frame of soil, and a compressional wave in the pore fluid. The compressional wave, due to the motion of the pore fluid relative to the skeletal frame of soil, is highly damped by the viscosity of pore fluid and only a short range effect near the boundaries of discontinuity, such as a sea‐seabed interface. The seabed response to water waves is characterized by the two Mach numbers, i.e., the ratio of water‐wave speed to shear‐wave speed in soil and the ratio of water‐wave speed to compressional‐wave speed in soil. Most of the water‐wave propagation problems fall into the subsonic flow condition, where elastic waves in the bed travel faster than water waves. For sandy beds, generally the speeds of compressional and shear waves are much higher than the phase velocity of the water wave. For this case, the solution of the Coulomb‐damped poroelastic bed response presented in this paper approaches the solution of the massless poroelastic bed response in Yamamoto et al. (1978 [Jour. Fluid Mech., 87(1): 193–206]). The damping of water waves due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction is equally or more significant than the damping due to percolation in sand beds. For clay beds, the speed of the shear wave in soil becomes low and comparable to the phase speed of the water wave. The bed motion for this case is considerably amplified due to the near‐resonance vibration of shear mode of bed vibration. The water wavelength on a clay bed is significantly shortened compared to the water wavelength over a rigid bed. The water wave damping due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction in soil becomes much larger compared to the water wave damping due to percolation in clay beds. Long water waves over a soft clayey bed attenuate within several wavelengths of travel distance. 相似文献
14.
潮成内波在物理海洋和相关学科中的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
潮成海洋内波作为物理海洋学中的一个研究内容，虽然对海洋中的能量分配过程起着相当重要的作用，但其作用和影响却不仅仅限于此范畴之内。在许多相关学科的研究中，如水声学、地学(物质输运、地形地貌、深水沉积、地壳液体流动)、海洋工程(海洋资源的勘探、开发和保护等)、海洋生态环境，海水养殖、渔业捕捞，航道淤积以及观测仪器、卫星海洋学等，都存在潮成内波的作用。文章分析了线性或弱非线性潮成内波(常称为内潮波)和强非线性潮成内波(常称为内孤立波)可能的作用方式，对其在物理海洋学及各相关学科中的作用作了简单介绍。 相似文献
15.
The hydrodynamic performance of vertical and sloped plane, dentated and serrated seawalls were investigated using physical model studies. Regular and random waves of wide range of heights and periods were used. Tests were carried out for different inclinations of the seawall (i.e. θ=30, 40, 50, 60 and 90°) and for a constant water depth of 0.7 m. The wave reflection was measured to assess the dissipation character of the seawalls. It was observed that the serrated seawall was superior to the plane and dentated seawall in reducing the wave reflection. Even for the vertical case, the coefficient of reflection due to regular waves for dentated seawall ranged from 0.6–0.99 and for the vertical serrated seawall it was 0.45–0.98, whereas for the vertical plane wall, it was almost 1.0. It was found that the characteristic dimension of the seawall (i.e. L/W) and the relative water depth (i.e. d/L) were better influencing parameters compared to the conventionally used surf similarity parameter ‘ξ’ (ξ=tan θ/(Hi/L)0.5) in predicting the reflection from the dentated and serrated seawall, where L is the local wave length, W the width of the dent along the length of the seawall slope, d the water depth at the toe and Hi is the incident wave height. A similar trend was observed for the random waves too. The reduction in the wave reflection due to random waves for the dentated seawall as compared to the plane seawall was about 18% and for the serrated seawall, it was 20%. It was observed that the reflection due to random waves was lesser for all the three different walls than the regular waves, due to the mutual interaction of random waves. Multiple regression analysis on the measured data points was carried out and predictive equations for the reflection coefficient were obtained for both regular and random waves. This study will be useful in the design of energy dissipating type vertical quay walls in ports and harbours, sloped seawalls for shore protection from erosion and sloped caisson as breakwaters. Comparison of predictive formulae with the experimental results revealed that the prediction methods were good enough for practical purposes. 相似文献
16.
The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, Kt, and coefficient of reflection, Kr, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, Kl was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. Kt values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions. 相似文献
17.
为使防波堤同时具有良好的掩护效果和水体交换能力,提出了两种带有透浪通道的新型直立式防波堤。基于Fluent求解器建立了三维数值波浪水槽,通过与试验结果对比,验证了该数值水槽求解波浪与透空堤作用具有较高的精度。对两种防波堤在规则波作用下的透浪特性进行了研究,结果表明:透射系数K_t与透空率呈正线性相关,且可通过调整透浪通道间距,使相同透空率下K_t降低20%～30%。对同一结构,K_t随相对波长的增大而显著增大,但受相对波高的影响较小。在透空率大于0.16后,异型沉箱防波堤的消浪性能明显优于错位沉箱。基于数值计算结果,给出了以上两种透空堤波浪透射系数的经验公式。 相似文献
18.
Isamu Aida Tokutaro Hatori Morio Koyama Hideki Nagashima Kinjiro Kajiura 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(5):207-219
To investigate the response characteristics of a bay to tsunamis, field measurements of long-period waves have been carried out at Onagawa and Okachi Bays, both of which face the Pacific Ocean in northern Japan. In Onagawa Bay, the observed transfer function is in good agreement with the prediction based on the one-dimensional numerical model, in the period range larger than about 15 minutes. The response of shorter periods seems to be influenced by the two-dimensionality of the bay. The oscillations within Onagawa Harbor are also discussed with respect to the relative amplitude and phase at two stations inside the harbor and it is estimated that the reflection coefficient at the waterfront is about 0.7. In Okachi Bay, the oscillations in the period range larger than about 10 minutes could be explained by a Y-shaped model of the bay. The dominant oscillations offshore of these two-bays are found to be the mode with the motion predominantly in the direction normal to the shelf orientation, and the estimated power spectral density of incoming waves in deep water varies asf
–2,f being the frequency. The waves of lateral modes, such as edge waves on the shelf, are small and of minor importance to generate bay oscillations of longer periods. 相似文献
19.
In this paper, the phenomenon of ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable water depth is re-examined. Based on the assumption of shallow water, a linearised shallow water equation is solved with an arbitrary beach profile. These irregular beach profiles form a set of partial differential equation with variable coefficient as the governing equation, which is the main obstacle in obtaining analytical solutions. In this paper, two families of beach profile are used as examples. A parametric study is conducted to investigate the influence of the beach profiles on the water surface elevation (η) and velocities (u). 相似文献