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1.
随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。 相似文献
2.
The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell. A full parametric relationship for the directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is developed. The analysis clearly shows that typical dispersion relationships are questionable at high frequencies and that such effects can be significant. This result supports greater attention being focussed on the routine recording of wavenumber spectra, rather than frequency spectra. 相似文献
3.
针对不规则波浪作用下Wigley型船的运动响应问题进行了系统的研究,采用统计学方法深入探讨了船舶不规则运动幅值和响应周期的分布规律,并通过傅里叶变换对船舶运动响应进行了频谱特征分析。结果表明,船舶横摇方向与升沉和纵摇方向随机运动的响应特征有显著差异。在升沉与纵摇方向,波浪谱峰频率远离自振频率,前十分之一大振幅运动对应周期离散性较小,基本稳定在波浪谱峰周期附近,但小振幅运动周期分布离散性较大,频谱分析指出船舶升沉与纵摇运动响应频谱在波浪谱峰频率附近出现明显峰值。而在横摇方向,波浪谱峰频率与自振频率相耦合,不同振幅的横摇运动响应周期均稳定在自振周期附近,且周期离散性较小,频谱分析也表明横摇运动响应频谱主要集中于船舶运动自振频率附近。 相似文献
4.
响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。 相似文献
5.
海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
用 １８个波高计组成的直径为 ４０ｃｍ的圆形阵列在大型风浪槽内系统地测量了风浪和涌浪方向谱。用两种分辨力较高的方向谱估计方法最大似然法（ＭＬＭ）和贝叶斯方法（ＢＤＭ）分析的结果表明：风浪高频域出现的依赖于估计方法的双峰方向分布是一种物理假象;在较成长的涌浪低频域,得到跟传播方向对称、两峰间隔大约６０°－９０°非常规则的双峰方向分布,它跟频率和涌浪的成长状态有关,而跟估计方法无关,这种现象可以用非线性波－波相互作用过弱,在不同方向之间不能有效传递能量来解释。 相似文献
6.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(2):151-160
Wind waves recorded in water from 1.4 to 3.8 m deep near the southeastern shore of Lake Erie during 1981 were used to compare two methods for representing wave spectra in shallow water. The results show that the semi-theoretical Wallops model, which requires total energy, peak energy frequency, and depth as parameters, provides fair agreement with observed spectra at the deeper stations but only marginal agreement in very shallow water. The general empirical model, which requires average frequency and energy density at the spectral peak as additional parameters, provides closer agreement with observed wave spectra for all depths. 相似文献
7.
C.Z. Wang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(2):107-133
A two-dimensional nonlinear random sloshing problem is analyzed by the fully nonlinear wave velocity potential theory based on the finite element method. A rectangular container filled with liquid subjected to specified horizontal random oscillations is studied. Both wave elevation and hydrodynamic force are obtained. The spectra of random waves and forces have also been investigated, and the effects of the peak frequencies and spectral width of the specified spectrum used for the generation of the random oscillations are discussed. It is found that the energy mainly concentrates at the natural frequencies of the container and is dominant at the ith order natural frequency when the peak frequency is close to the ith order natural frequency. Some results are compared between the fully nonlinear solutions, the linear solutions and the linear plus second-order solutions. 相似文献
8.
飓风Juan(2003)路径附近实测飓风浪的谱特性研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
Hurricane Juan provides an excellent opportunity to probe into the detailed wave spectral patterns and spectral parameters of a hurricane system, with enough wave spectral observations around Juan＇s track in the deep ocean and shallow coastal water. In this study, Hurricane Juan and wave observation stations around Juan＇s track are introduced. Variations of wave composition are discussed and analyzed based on time series of one-dimensional frequency spectra, as well as wave steepness around Juan＇s track： before, during, and after Juan＇s passing. Wave spectral involvement is studied based on the observed one-dimensional spectra and two-dimensional spectra during the hurricane. The standardization method of the observed wave spectra during Hurricane Juan is discussed, and the standardized spectra show relatively conservative behavior, in spite of the huge variation in wave spectral energy, spectral peak, and peak frequency during this hurricane. Spectral widths＇ variation during Hurricane Juan are calculated and analyzed. A two-layer nesting WW3 model simulation is applied to simulate the one-dimensional and two-dimensional wave spectra, in order to examine WW3＇s ability in simulating detailed wave structure during Hurricane Juan. 相似文献
9.
The results of the hindcasting of wave fields based on spectral models are the database for the climatic spectra calculation. The calculations were performed for each synoptic term over a time interval exceeding 40 years. We developed a procedure for the classification the wave spectra in different seas. It is possible to present the whole variety of the spectral structure of waves as five classes of frequency-directional (two-dimensional) spectra. We calculated the probabilities of the occurrence, of these classes (i.e., the climatic spectra) in different seas. We present estimates of the spectra of different classes for the White and Bering seas that are possible with return periods 1 and 100 years. 相似文献
10.
基于大涡模拟和局部滤波同化方法的海洋环流模式 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
结合最小二乘法极值原理,提出了一种基于局部谱展开的滤波同化方法,把测量数据和数值计算过程中出现的高频短波滤掉,并将高度计数据同化到了求解过程中.结果既增加了数值稳定性,又提高了数值模拟的准确性.针对在海洋环流问题中水平的流动性质和垂直的不同的特点,我们还将大涡模拟的思想和直接涡黏的思想分别应用于水平方向和垂直方向,给出的方法是一种适用于海洋环流和浅水环流问题的大涡模拟湍流模式.对热带和北太平洋一年四季非定常季风作用下环流的数值模拟表明,提出的方法非常有效,数值结果与实际相当吻合. 相似文献
11.
Wave attenuation by vegetation is a highly dynamic process and its quantification is important for understanding shore protection potential and modeling coastal hydrodynamics. Data documenting the interactions of Spartina alterniflora, represented by polyolefin tubing, and single- and double-peaked irregular waves were collected in a large-scale laboratory flume. The laboratory provided a controlled environment to evaluate wave attenuation, including the parameters of stem density, submergence, wave height, and peak period. Wave attenuation appeared to be most dependent on stem density and the ratio of stem length to water depth. Wave attention increased slightly with wave height while no clear trend with respect to wave period was seen. Treating double-peaked spectra as superimposed wave systems revealed a preferential dissipation of the higher-frequency wave system relative to the lower-frequency wave system under emergent conditions. Wave energy loss occurred at all frequencies of both spectral types, with dissipation increasing with frequency above the spectral peak. Parameterizing the spectral equilibrium range as a function of frequency showed a steepening of the spectral tail compared to the − 4 power law under emergent conditions. An empirical relationship defining the bulk drag coefficient for S. alterniflora as a function of the stem Reynolds number is found to serve as a first estimate for engineering applications. 相似文献
12.
本文对海-气边界层波致风机制的相关理论进行了阐述,并利用ERA-40再分析资料给出了太平洋谱峰速度、波龄、波陡等描述涌浪和波致风机制物理量的年际和季节空间分布特征。分析表明:东太平洋赤道地区等海域涌浪速度最大且涌浪由南向北传播明显;太平洋波边界层高度基本呈现出东高西低的分布形势;波致风机制主要发生在赤道热带海域,北半球夏季波致风机制偏强,冬季偏弱,南半球反之;北半球北部海域夏季更易发生波致风机制,赤道附近海域相反;南海为风浪与涌浪组成的混合浪,对其波候等相关研究有必要分开进行讨论。 相似文献
13.
Based on the Hamiltonian formulation of water waves, using Hamiltonian consistent modelling methods, we derive higher order Hamiltonian equations by Taylor expansions of the potential and the vertical velocity around the still water level. The polynomial expansion in wave height is mixed with pseudo-differential operators that preserve the exact dispersion relation. The consistent approximate equations have inherited the Hamiltonian structure and give exact conservation of the approximate energy. In order to deal with breaking waves, we extend the eddy-viscosity model of Kennedy et al. (2000) to be applicable for fully dispersive equations. As breaking trigger mechanism we use a kinematic criterion based on the quotient of horizontal fluid velocity at the crest and the crest speed. The performance is illustrated by comparing simulations with experimental data for an irregular breaking wave with a peak period of 12 s above deep water and for a bathymetry induced periodic wave plunging breaker over a trapezoidal bar. The comparisons show that the higher order models perform quite well; the extension with the breaking wave mechanism improves the simulations significantly. 相似文献
14.
The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction. 相似文献
15.
16.
Wave-tank measurements show that some wind waves travel at a speed that corresponds more closely to the spectral peak frequency than to the linear dispersion relation. However, Bragg echoes sampled and averaged in space and time by HF radars tend to obey the linear dispersion relation. Resolution of the dilemma will require new measurements with incisive attention to their meaning. 相似文献
17.
在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。 相似文献
18.
A. K. Laing 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(4):541-553
A model is described for hindcasting or forecasting waves in finite‐depth waters. The model is particularly applicable to coastal sites where the water is depth‐limited. The wave energy density spectrum is modelled in the frequency‐directional domain. For each spectral component a ray is defined along which wave energy propagates to reach the site. For sites exposed to the open ocean a background spectral wave model is required to provide input to the ray endpoints. Further growth and dissipation is then effected along the rays according to the local wind and water depth. The model was used to hindcast wave spectra over a period of 9 months for a site in the Canterbury Bight, New Zealand. The results were compared with measurements from a Waveridcr buoy at the site. The model succeeds in explaining about 40% of the variance in measured significant wave heights. However, the present application is handicapped by errors inherent in the background spectral model and in specifying the local wind. 相似文献
19.
Takashige Sugimoto 《Journal of Oceanography》1974,30(6):260-270
The treatment of diffusion due to the tidal current in the near-shore ocean, and the similitude in the hydraulic model experiment are studied.In broad and shallow tidal bays and in the coastal seawaters near irregular boundaries, horizontal eddy-currents induced geometrically and turbulence caused by their cascading have predominant effect on dispersion of river and waste waters. These turbulent diffusion processes are similarly reproduced in the Froude models of turbulent resume, by adding the similitude for the self-similar structure of the spectral density of turbulence, or the eddy diffusivity. The similitude means to take the scale ratios of the time and the vertical length as the two-thirds power of the scale ratio of the horizontal length.Similitudes are also derived for the system of the gravitational circulation, the stratification and the salt-mass transport in partially and well-mixed estuaries. Generally, the vertical eddy diffusivity must be exaggerated by a half power of the model distortion externally by some methods of agitation. When the tidal bay is broad and very shallow, the Rayleigh number and the Hansen number are small, and the effect of density current and stratification on the flushing is small. Instead the effect of local eddies, geometrically induced tidal residual circulations become predominant. In this special case, there is no need to satisfy the similitude for density difference and vertical shear effects on dispersion. 相似文献
20.
双曲余弦海脊上海啸俘获波的解析与数值研究 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1
海啸能被大洋海脊引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米，且因其特殊的运动方式，携带巨大能量影响远场地区的港口，严重威胁海岸安全。本文首先基于线性浅水方程，推导了双曲余弦平方海脊上俘获波的波面解，其为μ阶ν次的连带勒让德函数的第一类解和第二类解的组合。进一步推导出其对应的频散关系，其中对于确定的频率ω，存在无穷多个波数ky与之对应。采用MIKE21-BW模型，模拟了产生于海脊脊顶处的海啸在理想双曲余弦平方海脊上的传播变形过程。结果表明，小部分能量以自由先驱波进行传播，海啸波的波能大部分被海脊俘获。海脊俘获波沿着海脊方向为行进波，随着海啸波传播时间的增加，波浪在沿着海脊方向的延展范围也逐渐增大，波高逐渐减小、波的个数逐渐增加。俘获波能量主要由不同频率以相同速度传播的具有孤立波特性的波浪成分和能量主要集中在特定频率范围内的波浪成分组成。 相似文献