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1.
波控岬间海滩剖面短期变化过程分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用粤东寮咀口岬间海滩重复测量的剖面数据,通过经验特征函数及主要空间函数的分析和功率谱估计分析,结果表明,海滩剖面主要由2个空间模式构成前滨模式和滩肩模式.空间模式在时域上具有一定的振荡周期.其中,前滨模式以4天的准周期变化为主,滩肩模式则有2.8天的准周期性变化.此外,影响海滩剖面短期变化的主要动力因素是波浪,台风大浪则是剖面迅速变化的直接驱动力. 相似文献
2.
潮汐作用下的滩面干湿交替是影响风沙运动的重要过程之一。从潮汐作用干湿交替影响下的海滩表层湿度时空变化及其对滩面风沙运动的影响、潮汐作用干湿交替影响下的海滩风区长度变化及其对滩面风沙运动的影响等方面,较为系统地概括和总结了关于潮汐作用下海滩风沙运动过程的研究进展和主要成果。主要结论为：（1）表层湿度与潮汐水位变化之间的关系是非线性的,存在地下水和毛细作用双重的滞后效应;（2）海滩临界起沙风速随表层湿度的变化关系在低于临界表层湿度时正相关,超过临界表层湿度则滩面风沙活动近乎停滞;（3）海滩风沙输送量随风区长度的变化关系按达到平衡状态前、中、后,可分为正相关、不相关和负相关3个不同的阶段。最后,针对当前国内外潮汐-海滩风沙作用模式的研究现状,提出中国未来急需加强的研究方向。 相似文献
3.
海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙堆积——以福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程为例 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
海滩养护工程实施后,在保护海岸抵御侵蚀的同时往往还产生其他的环境问题。尤其在强风区海岸,海滩养护造成了滩面环境的改变,使滩面风沙搬运和沉积特征都发生了显著变化。对福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程实施前后的风沙沉积对比研究表明,养护后海滩的干滩宽度、滩面沉积物粒径、表层湿度、海滩高程等环境要素变化对滩面风沙搬运与沉积过程都产生了重要的影响。主要结论为:(1)养护海滩干滩滩肩高程的提高增加了滩面风速,增大了滩面风沙输沙率;(2)养护海滩干滩宽度的增加既扩大了风区长度也为风沙搬运提供了充足的物源,且不受潮汐过程影响,提供了持续的风沙物源供给,增加了风沙作用时间;(3)养护海滩剖面形态的变化使得海滩滩面沉积物含水率减小,降低风沙起动风速,增强了滩面风沙搬运。 相似文献
4.
江苏淤泥质潮滩对海平面变化的形态响应 总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9
通过对江苏滨海平原淤泥质潮滩1980年以来19个固定潮滩断面112个测次滩面高程测量的统计分析，探讨典型淤泥质潮滩剖面形态对海平面变化的形态响应过程。结果表明，典型淤涨岸段海平面上升，多年平均潮位线以上滩面仍将淤积加高，但淤高幅度除多年平均高潮线附近滩面相对较大外，其余均较小，表明随海平面上升该滩带总体淤积速率将趋于减小；与此相反，多年平均潮位线以下滩面则趋于蚀低，且侵蚀强度较大，表明该滩带的侵蚀有加剧趋向，最终滩面总体形态将因上带不断淤高和下带不断蚀低而逐渐变陡，剖面上凸形态的曲率不断加大。曲型侵蚀岸段，海平面上升的效应则相反，海平面上升，多年平均潮位线以上滩面强烈蚀低；而多年平均潮位线以下滩面则强烈淤积加高，剖面的上凹形态最终将因上带不断蚀低和下带不断淤高而趋于平直。 相似文献
5.
土壤CO2释放通量是全球碳循环的重要流通途径之一,其动态变化直接影响全球C平衡.土壤CO2释放通量在时空上具有很大的变异性.传统研究只关注年、季之间以及水平空间上的土壤通量,对于垂直剖面的CO2通量变化关注较少.土壤释放到大气中的CO2是垂直方向上各个土壤层次共同产生的,因此对其垂直剖面CO2通量研究十分必要.根据近年来国内外最新的研究资料,综合介绍了土壤垂直剖面CO2通量变化以及其影响因素的变化规律,并分析研究中存在的问题.由于土壤垂直剖面的复杂性,对于研究其CO2通量的变化还存在着方法上的困难;使用气体扩散理论计算各层间的通量是否能真正反应自然状态下CO2在土壤中的传输,以及土壤温度、含水量和微生物等因素对通量的影响机理尚不明确. 相似文献
6.
论述河北省海滩现代沉积环境特征及其对开发利用的影响。河北海滩沉积物质比较复杂，粒径变化从８．０Φ－０．２６Φ，分选变化从好到极差。沉积物组合可分为黄河泥沙沉积、滦河泥河沉积和沿海小河泥沙沉积三大类型海滩的开发形式有港口、旅游、养殖几种方式、，在海滩开发模式的选择中，沉积环境和沉积特征对其有明显的影响。 相似文献
7.
论述河北省海滩现代沉积环境特征及其对开发利用的影响。河北海滩沉积物质比较复杂、粒径变化从８．０－０．２６（粉砂质粘土－砂砾），分选变化从好到极差。沉积物组合可分为黄河泥沙沉积、滦河泥河沉积和沿海小河泥沙沉积三大类型。海滩的开发利用形式有港口、旅游、养殖几种方式，在海滩开发模式的选择中，沉积环境和沉积特征对其有明显的影响。 相似文献
8.
城市剖面分析的方法和实证 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
提出了城市剖面概念。城市剖面主要反映了城市内部发展水平的差异。通过对城市剖面沿程的空间实体信息和行人社会属性信息的观测研究,可以定量分析城市内部发展过程,为研究城市演变、地域级差及空间扩展提供新方法。以大连市为例,选择长江路—黄河路为剖面线,利用主成分分析方法得到剖面各观测点的城市综合发展指数分布,并对城市发展中的景观建设和社会人文两大系统的协调度进行分析和评价。结果表明:(1)沿城市剖面线可将大连城市划分为三部分:城市发展综合指数最高的城心地区;指数较高的中间市区;指数低于平均水平的外围市区。(2)大连市景观与人文两大系统的协调度由高到低依次是城心地区、外围市区、中间市区。 相似文献
9.
基于GIS的淤泥质潮滩侵蚀堆积空间分析 总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13
通过野外滩地长期水准详测资料，利用地理信息系统的GRID和TIN模块产生潮滩高程、坡度、二维剖面、侵蚀与堆积分布图，并获取测点所在位置的高程、坡度和侵蚀量，对获取的数据及空间分布图进行分析，结果表明：侵蚀主要发生在-7m以上的岸坡和潮滩，堆积主要出现于广阔的深水岸坡和7部分高滩，侵蚀速率以滩前深槽岸坡最快，年侵蚀率达17.9cm/a，并呈加速趋势，海岸线向陆后退速率为31m/a，侵蚀、堆积的闭合深度约为-9.5m，空间分布表现为自北而南的3个明显分带，即潮滩轻微侵蚀区，滩前深槽岸坡强烈侵蚀区和深水岸坡缓积区，东西向比较，东部，中部侵蚀大于西部。 相似文献
10.
萨拉乌苏河流域MGS2层段主要氧化物变化及其指示的气候波动 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
萨拉乌苏河流域与MIS2相同时代的MGS2地层段记录了5.5个由风成砂与河流相或湖沼相构成的沉积旋回,通过对各沉积旋回的主要氧化物分析表明：河湖相中Al2O3、TOFE、K2O、MgO、CaO、Na2O、TiO含量通常明显高于风成砂,而SiO2含量则呈现相反的变化,构成了与沉积旋回相对应的5.5个主要氧化物变化旋回。结合各主要氧化物的化学迁移特性和剖面所在区域的地貌特征进行分析,认为该剖面的主要氧化物变化旋回是气候波动的反映,一个主要氧化物含量变动旋回指示了一个干冷-暖湿旋回,也即一个冬夏季风先后演替的气候旋回。MGS2持续的时间仅为12 ka,一个冬夏季风环境的变化大致平均仅需要2 ka,一个冬季风或者夏季风环境的平均持续时间大约1 ka。显然,这是一个千年尺度的环境变化。研究还表明,MGS2气候波动与晚冰期气候变化以及相关的Heinrich事件具有良好的对应关系。可以推断,MGS2记录的千年尺度环境变化是全球环境变化在本区域的反映。 相似文献
11.
Karl F. Nordstrom 《自然地理学》2013,34(2):177-196
This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches. Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes. 相似文献
12.
This study documents two different modes of berm development: (1) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode 1 sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. 相似文献
13.
《Geomorphology》2006,73(1-2):33-49
Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics. 相似文献
14.
Miguel Ortega-Snchez Sandra Fachin Francisco Sancho Miguel A. Losada 《Geomorphology》2008,99(1-4):171-185
Two years of offshore wave data and daily time exposure images from Trafalgar beach, a 2-km-long sandy beach located on the southwest coast of Spain that frequently exhibits rhythmic features, were used to (1) explore the variability of the beachface morphology and (2) determine environmental conditions associated with the different morphological states. The beachface morphology at three distinct alongshore sectors was analyzed and classified and five different morphological states were found that are related with the presence or absence of beach cusps and a berm: (1) large beach cusps, (2) small beach cusps, (3) low-tide terrace; (4) plane beach berm and (5) plane beach. The predominant beachface morphology is characterized by the presence of large beach cusps, and the main wave climate consisted of offshore significant wave heights ranging from 0.5–1 m and wave periods between 4 and 12 s. An alongshore variation of the morphology is found which might be related to the nearshore wave variability (SWAN wave model results). The morphologies are, in some cases, well-correlated with the daily offshore incident wave climate (described by the daily maximum significant wave height and the corresponding period), particularly for the moderate to high energy wave conditions. Small beach cusps appear under short period waves, whereas when the wave periods are longer the morphology tends to change to large beach cusps. This transition only occurs if the forcing is maintained as constant for a certain duration, which depends itself on the wave energy. It is concluded that correlations over 90% are only found for the highest wave energy conditions or under long wave periods. For the remainder, it is not possible to generally correlate the beachface morphology based only on the wave forcing because the previous morphological state cannot be ignored. 相似文献
15.
Jonathan A. Warrick Douglas A. George Guy Gelfenbaum Peter Ruggiero George M. Kaminsky Matt Beirne 《Geomorphology》2009,111(3-4):136-148
Sediment supply provides a fundamental control on the morphology of river deltas, and humans have significantly modified these supplies for centuries. Here we examine the effects of almost a century of sediment supply reduction from the damming of the Elwha River in Washington on shoreline position and beach morphology of its wave-dominated delta. The mean rate of shoreline erosion during 1939–2006 is ~ 0.6 m/yr, which is equivalent to ~ 24,000 m3/yr of sediment divergence in the littoral cell, a rate approximately equal to 25–50% of the littoral-grade sediment trapped by the dams. Semi-annual surveys between 2004 and 2007 show that most erosion occurs during the winter with lower rates of change in the summer. Shoreline change and morphology also differ spatially. Negligible shoreline change has occurred updrift (west) of the river mouth, where the beach is mixed sand to cobble, cuspate, and reflective. The beach downdrift (east) of the river mouth has had significant and persistent erosion, but this beach differs in that it has a reflective foreshore with a dissipative low-tide terrace. Downdrift beach erosion results from foreshore retreat, which broadens the low-tide terrace with time, and the rate of this kind of erosion has increased significantly from ~ 0.8 m/yr during 1939–1990 to ~ 1.4 m/yr during 1990–2006. Erosion rates for the downdrift beach derived from the 2004–2007 topographic surveys vary between 0 and 13 m/yr, with an average of 3.8 m/yr. We note that the low-tide terrace is significantly coarser (mean grain size ~ 100 mm) than the foreshore (mean grain size ~ 30 mm), a pattern contrary to the typical observation of fining low-tide terraces in the region and worldwide. Because this cobble low-tide terrace is created by foreshore erosion, has been steady over intervals of at least years, is predicted to have negligible longshore transport compared to the foreshore portion of the beach, and is inconsistent with oral history of abundant shellfish collections from the low-tide beach, we suggest that it is an armored layer of cobble clasts that are not generally competent in the physical setting of the delta. Thus, the cobble low-tide terrace is very likely a geomorphological feature caused by coastal erosion of a coastal plain and delta, which in turn is related to the impacts of the dams on the Elwha River to sediment fluxes to the coast. 相似文献
16.
An application of polynomial curve fitting to sediment cumulative frequency distributions is presented to delineate the foreshore depositional patterns along the barrier beaches of the Rhode Island southshore. The analysis is based on 92 sampled stations where data for beach geometry, tidal stage, and sediment size were collected. Using the size-frequency classes obtained from sieving the foreshore sediment samples at 0.25 O intervals and fitting third-degree polynomial equations to these data, over 94% of the variation within the sediment cumulative frequency distributions is explained. The four curve coefficients (a, b, c, d) derived from the predicted third-degree equation are used in a discriminant function analysis to test the relationship between the curve shape and sediment source. Comparison of the discriminant scores with the respective station locations suggests that a series of Pleistocene headlands which occur as discrete points along the beach are serving as independent sources of sediment for the system. 相似文献
17.
ass.prof. Niels Nielsen 《Geografisk tidskrift / udgivet af Bestyrelsen for Det Kongelige danske geografiske selskab》2013,113(1):61-67
Nielsen, Niels: Observations of sea ice influence on the littoral sediment exchange, North Zealand, Denmark. Geografisk Tidsskrift 88:61–67. Copenhagen. 1988. In 1985 and 1986 monthly surveys of sediment volumes were carried out on a sandy beach and its nearshore platform at the north coast of Zealand. Both winters in the research period had temperatures below average, and consequently abundant sea ice formations. ‘Ice winters’ in open Danish waters occur statistically about 1/3 of the winters. The appearance of sea ice resulted in marked loss of sediment from the whole littoral zone, but by far the largest net erosion could be detected on the nearshore plane. An important factor is assumed to be the interaction of waves with the icefoot and ice pile-ups. For the beach itself, ice-glazing of the beach surface and interstitial frost in the foreshore sediments caused wave erosion within and just off the swash zone due to variations of the percolation parameter. This dynamic was observed during both the freeze-up and thaw-up periods. On the backshore, wind-derived forms characterized the winter beach, but here the net sediment budget was less affected. 相似文献
18.
Beaches dissipate wave energy and regulate the frequency that the cliff foot is subject to wave attack. The relationship between beach levels and cliff recession rates has been established for Pleistocene soft rock cliffs along the North Norfolk and Suffolk coasts, UK. The results suggest that over a decadal timescale, there is a non-linear increase in the average recession rate as the beach profile area above High Water Mark (HWM) decreases. Small changes in beach level can result in significant differences in the recession rates. The impact of a unit change in beach level on the recession rate depends on the initial beach level. On a year-by-year basis, it is possible to divide the beach level and recession relationship into a series of zones with characteristic types of behaviour. At low beach levels there is high to extremely high recession with considerable variability, whereas at high beach levels there is almost zero recession with limited variability. It is concluded that historical recession rates are the product of both the past forcing events and changes in cliff–beach state. Extrapolation of historical rates can be extremely unreliable unless it is supported by an understanding of the dynamic behaviour of the cliff–beach system and the energy inputs over the observation period. 相似文献
19.
Morphodynamic response of a meso- to macro-tidal intermediate beach based on a long-term data set 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
N. Snchal T. Gouriou B. Castelle J.-P. Parisot S. Capo S. Bujan H. Howa 《Geomorphology》2009,107(3-4):263-274
Four years of bi-monthly topographic surveys have been conducted on a 350 m stretch of the meso- to macro-tidal Truc Vert beach, France. Here we study the dynamics of both the inner bar and the upper part of the beach where a berm can develop in the presence of fair weather conditions. For the inner bar, the occurrences of the different states within the intermediate classification, following that of Wright and Short (Wright, L.D., Short, A.D. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93–118), are presented and compared to other sites in both micro- and meso-tidal environments. The results show a similar frequency of occurrence of the Transverse Bar and Rip (TBR) state, while the more dissipative states, Rhythmic Bar and Beach (RBB) and Longshore Bar and Trough (LBT), are less regularly observed despite the high wave energy levels. The LBT and RBB states are also observed in the presence of fair weather conditions and the TBR state can persist during very energetic events. Similar results are also observed with the upper beach dynamics. Very energetic events are not necessarily associated with erosion while and low-energy events are not necessarily accompanied by accretion. The conditions given here indicate, that berm development occurs preferentially when the beach morphology exhibits a TBR or a LTT state. Apart from the control exerted by offshore wave conditions, the beach state and berm development patterns exhibited by Truc Vert beach are also discussed within the framework of possible morphological (morphodynamic) feedback and of the influence of the meso- to macrotidal range which modulates the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile. 相似文献
20.
海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。 相似文献