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1.
高志一  文凡  李洁 《海洋科学》2011,35(9):96-106
对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是,波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央,这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率;进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为,波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...  相似文献   

2.
本文将小波分析用于波群结构和波群中波破碎的研究。实验结果表明,波群中波动的振幅不是关于波群中央对称的,而是波群前部波动的振幅较大。这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波的波陡较大,后部单个波的波陡较小,当谱宽度增大时波群前部与后部单个波的平均波陡之差增大。波群前部波陡较大导致波群前部的波动最容易发生破碎,而不是波群中央的波动最容易发生破碎,波群中波动最可能发生破碎的位置距波群中央的长度为波群长度的1/6。  相似文献   

3.
袁业立  郑全安 《海洋学报》1989,11(2):129-135
本文从涡度方程出发,讨论海洋中的切变波的激发机制和幅度衰减,理论分析表明,在条状外力(如骤置常条状风,移动的条状风等)的作用下,可以激发起切变波,这与卫星观测资料定性地一致,文中还讨论了在侧向摩擦(AH,AV)作用下,切变波幅度的衰减过程,理论模型与卫星观测数据定量地一致.  相似文献   

4.
畸形波(freak wave)   总被引:6,自引:1,他引:6  
在分析国外研究成果的基础上,简单介绍了"畸形波"的几个基本问题,如"畸形波"的定义、发生的海域、发生的机理等。  相似文献   

5.
不规则波Boussinesq型方程的造波,消波和反射   总被引:5,自引:1,他引:4  
对前人提出的造波、消波和反射边方法分析表明,其方法是极浅水波近似,不适用于任意水深的水域,本文就任意水深变化Boussinesq型方程,提出了不规则波新的造波原理、方法和消波边界及部分反射边界波动方程,试验表明,本文提出的造波、消波和反射方程有效而可靠的。  相似文献   

6.
概述了国内外学者对freak波的认识,并从各种观测资料分析总结了freak波的特征。引入完全非线性控制方程Schroedinger方程的1+1模式,对freak波进行模拟,为在实验室造波或计算研究提供一种方法。  相似文献   

7.
不规则波越波量的实验研究   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
本文试验研究了不规则波在斜坡式和直墙式海堤或护岸上的越波量,给出了计算无因次越波量的公式,研究了斜堤堤坡和波谱宽度对越波量的影响。还探讨了利用概率分布法由规则波越波量计算不规则波越波量的可行性.  相似文献   

8.
波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。  相似文献   

9.
基于弱二维的KP方程,并结合南中国海东沙群岛附近内孤立波的观测资料,模拟了内孤立波的波-波相互倌用0数值结果较好的反应了内孤立波的二维特征,同时体现两个内孤立波波-波相互作用的非线性特征,即两波相交处相速随振幅的增大而变大。相比于一维的KdV方程,KP在内孤立波的仿真反演方面具有更大的优势。  相似文献   

10.
规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高,从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。  相似文献   

11.
Optimum fifth order Stokes wave theory   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
OptimumfifthorderStokeswavetheory¥FuYuhua(ChinaOffshoreOilDevelopment&EngineeringCorporation,P.O.Box4709,Beijing100027,China)...  相似文献   

12.
畸形波传播速度实验和数值模拟研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
畸形波的传播速度是其最重要的特征参数之一。研究畸形波的传播速度有助于深入和全面了解畸形波的生成机理及其演化过程,另外还可以用于畸形波的预报。针对现有关于畸形波传播速度计算方法(高阶Stokes波理论近似估算,Hilbert变换和两固定点的距离除以畸形波的波峰经过两点所用时间)的不准确性和局限性,使用32个测点描述畸形波波峰沿波浪水槽的运动轨迹,再用回归分析法估算波峰运动轨迹与时间的相关关系,从而计算出畸形波的传播速度。基于288组物理模拟畸形波和364组数值模拟畸形波传播速度的计算结果,使用回归分析方法得出了畸形波传播速度的半经验半理论计算公式,同时还分析了畸形波传播速度的强非线性特征。  相似文献   

13.
The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method.  相似文献   

14.
数值水槽内的阻尼消波和波浪变形计算   总被引:11,自引:3,他引:8  
采用时域内对波面运动位置追踪的边界元方法,建立了一种非线性波浪变形计算的三维数值模式,并借助Spongelayer阻尼消波和Sommerfeld放射条件相匹配的处理方式,开发了一条三维非线性波的数值造波水槽,进而对水槽内的Stokes波进行了波浪变形计算。  相似文献   

15.
- When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is, wave refraction will occur. The authors have calculated the changes of wave parameters, including wave refraction, by Linear Wave Theory, and have also done systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by means of experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refraction, computation is done in this paper about wave transformation and breaking on gentle slopes in diagonal opposing current.  相似文献   

16.
引入Stokes二阶水波理论,建立了对海洋工程中大尺度综合型圆柱式结构波浪载荷的二阶修正统一积分算式。通过对波势特征解法的推广及引入干扰波叠加法、最小二乘法,使原仅适合于轴对称单柱的二阶散射波浪载荷快速积分算法可完全适用于类型广泛的任意型实用圆柱的计算。几则实例(圆台,单、双柱)的计算检验了该方法的有效性。  相似文献   

17.
As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave de-rived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious,the two equations are simplified into one equation for deter-mining d/L,i.e.,f(H,T,d/L)=0.According to this simplified method,three cases of the solution forthe Skjelbreia equations have been found:one accurate solution;more than one accurate solution and noaccurate solution(but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreiaequations).As to the case of more than one accurate solution,the reasonable solution can be judged fromthe method of variational principle,by means of which an optimum solution improved from the solutionof Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex andnonlinear wave theory,i.e.,the optimum fifth order Stokes wave,is given.  相似文献   

18.
为了研究波浪非线性对爬高的影响,解决防波堤等工程设计的实际问题,通过对数学模型试验、物理模型试验、规范公式得到的防波堤波浪爬高对比分析,分析了非线性主要影响参数厄塞尔数、相对水深和波陡对波浪爬高的影响规律,指出规范公式计算时存在的缺陷,并对其计算公式、适用范围进行修正、拟合,得到了强非线性规则波浪爬高的计算方法,可适用于斜坡堤断面的波浪爬高计算,与物理模型试验和数学模型试验结果对比表明,新的波浪爬高计算公式具有较好的计算精度,研究结果可为防波堤等实际工程设计提供重要参考。  相似文献   

19.
The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures.  相似文献   

20.
赵明  滕斌  谭丽 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):335-346
In this paper, a numerical model is established for estimating the wave forces on a submerged horizontal circular cylinder. For predicting the wave motion, a set of two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations is solved numerically with a finite element method. In order to track the moving non-linear wave surface boundary, the Navier-Stokes equations are discretized in a moving mesh system. After each computational time step, the mesh is modified according to the changed wave surface boundary. In order to stabilize the numerical procedure, a three-step finite element method is applied in the time integration. The water sloshing in a tank and wave propagation over a submerged bar are simulated for the first time to validate the present model. The computational results agree well with the analytical solution and the experimental data.Finally, the model is applied to the simulation of interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal circular cylinder.The effects of the KC number and the cylinder depth on the wave forces are studied.  相似文献   

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