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汕尾港的发展是与它所在的澙湖-潮汐通道海岸体系的发展相联系的,特别是与作为天然防波堤的通道边缘沙嘴的消长相联系.这条沙嘴经历了近50年的变迁,于1979年8月2日在台风袭击下溃断.本文着重探讨了汕尾澙湖-通道体系的发展,通道边缘沙嘴的消长与沿岸泥沙运动的关系. 汕尾澙湖-潮汐通道的发展所遵循的模式是:(1)敞开的海湾阶段,(2)半封闭的澙湖阶段,(3)澙湖-通道阶段,(4)决口-改道阶段.汕尾港已处于发展的第(4)阶段. 汕尾港通道边缘沙嘴的演变,50年来也可分为如下几个时期:(1)1930年时,沙嘴尚未形成,仅在新港、月眉沿岸有一条离岸沙嘴.(2)1955年前后,在新港、月眉离岸沙嘴崩溃时,品清湖出口处开始长出新的沙嘴.(3)在50年代末到60年代初,这条沙嘴每年延长约50—60m,成了汕尾潮汐通道的边缘沙嘴.(4)1965—1974年的10年中,汕尾潮汐通道最为稳定,汕尾港也成了著各的避风港.(5)70年代后,由于沙嘴的被“拉长”超出了与这一体系中动力作用相适应的限度,波浪和潮流对沙嘴的建设作用变为破坏作用.结果,沙嘴头大腰细而崩断,崩断处不断扩大,已有代替原口门的趋势. 由于这条沙嘴是汕尾港防浪的天然屏障,它的溃断已使汕尾港蒙受重大的损失.如何整治和恢复沙嘴已提到议事日程上来了,本文也对此提出了几点意见. 相似文献
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最近50a来莱州湾西—南部潮流动力演变的数值模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
根据1959、1984、2002年测量的海图,基于二维浅水方程分别构建了3个年份的莱州湾潮流场模型,研究了最近50a来莱州湾西—南部潮流动力演变规律,揭示黄河河口沙嘴形成演变对莱州湾西—南部潮流动力的影响。结果表明,最近50a中在沙嘴外围一直存在弧形高流速带,在弧形高流速带外围又有潮流剪切锋,潮流剪切锋包括内涨外退式和内退外涨式两类。随着河口沙嘴的不断向海延伸,莱州湾西—南海域的等潮位线呈以沙嘴为中心的辐射式格局;弧形高流速带整体向外海移动,其范围和流速也随之不断增大;剪切锋历时变长、间隔时间变短、南北跨度变大;但弧形高流速带和潮流剪切锋始终位于青坨子以北海域。对照同期海岸地貌演变,在弧形高流速带、潮流剪切锋等共同作用下,大部分黄河入海泥沙的输运路径和沉降范围仅限于青坨子以北,导致海岸地貌以此为界呈现显著的差异性演化。 相似文献
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海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汊道演变及沿岸输沙率的计算 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过收集不同时期的遥感资料,结合已往的研究,分析了海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汊道演变的年际与季节性变化规律;根据实测波浪资料计算了年沿岸输沙率及沿岸输沙率的季节变化。结果表明,博鳌潮汐汊道的演变具有周期性的规律,年际特征为南、北侧沙嘴分别向口门进积、口门总体变窄;从10a以上的尺度来看,封堵口门的趋势不断被洪季时的洪水和风暴潮增水所打断。另外通过沙嘴体积变化反推了博鳌近岸的沿岸输沙率,其结果与CERC公式计算结果一致,表明此公式在博鳌岸段有较好的适用性。 相似文献
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采用地图软件MapInfo 7.0对1842~2004年10多幅海图资料数字化,并结合相关海岛调查资料,分析了长兴岛、横沙岛的形成演变过程及其对南港、北港分流的影响。研究结果表明:长兴岛由鸭窝沙经过160多年演变,与上、下游小沙岛合并或人工堵汊而形成,岛屿东南低而宽,西北高而窄;其东是横沙岛,由横沙通道相隔;沙洲群大致呈NW-SE走向,与长江口南支主流方向基本一致。长兴沙岛南坍北涨,横沙岛是东南蚀退、西北淤涨,两岛面积不断增大,并逐渐向西北方向移动,横沙岛更为显著。长兴沙岛群把长江口南支分为南港、北港,西北端的小沙洲成为南港、北港的分流点,沙岛的迁移演变对南港、北港分流及分流点的稳定产生很大影响,两者相互制约。 相似文献
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根据黄河口外大量的现场历史观测资料分析发现,其附近海域流场存在着明显的高流速区。这些高流速区在大时间尺度上随着入海流路的改变以及黄河三角洲的演变也发生着此消彼长的变化。利用ChinaTide潮汐预报软件模拟海域潮汐,并利用不同历史年代的海图资料构建海域地形,通过建立黄河口数学模型分析了黄河口流场特性;利用2015年营口港的潮位资料以及实测流速值对数学模型进行了率定和验证;然后分别利用数学模型,对不同代表年的流场进行模拟复演。计算结果表明:(1)自1962年,黄河口沿岸就已经存在高流速区,分别位于甜水沟和神仙沟口外;(2)1976年,从神仙沟到清水沟一线沿岸存在着多个小型的高流速区群;(3)1996年至今,该阶段内存在3个高流速区,分别位于湾湾沟、神仙沟以及清8口门3个沙嘴处;(4)高流速区的演变与海岸形态的变化存在着密不可分的联系,岸线凸出的沙嘴处往往容易形成平面高流速区。 相似文献
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山东荣成湾沿岸输沙率及沙嘴的演化动态 总被引：12，自引：2，他引：12
山东荣成湾发育了NEE-SWW向约10 km长的沙坝,通过沿岸输沙率的计算、沙源分析得出以下结论:荣成湾沙坝的主要沙源为海底来沙和海岸来沙,其沿岸纵向净体积输沙率为15.52×104 m3/a,为沙坝的形成和演化提供了物源基础;沙嘴各段输沙率的计算及相应段沙嘴层理剖面分析,揭示了沙嘴的动态演化趋势. 相似文献
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收集了1976～2000年现代黄河三角洲地区的Landsat影像,采用平均高潮线法解译出25 a来的海岸线,分析了现代黄河三角洲地区的岸线长度变化,迁移特征以及河口三角洲的时空发育规律.结果表明:现代黄河三角洲地区岸线变迁可以分为三部分:北部、中部和南部,其中中部是变化最剧烈的岸段.根据河道摆动规律和三角洲的延伸方向,现代黄河三角洲的发育可以分为四个阶段:填湾阶段(1976～1981年)、中部突出阶段(1981～1983年)、东南方向突出和鸟嘴状沙嘴形成阶段(1983～1996年)、河流改道和新沙嘴形成阶段(1996～2000年),四个阶段共淤积造陆378.2 km2,侵蚀49.3 km2,净增长328.9 km2.此研究结果对于认识现代黄河三角洲的时空发育演变具有一定的意义. 相似文献
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The behavior of the coastal system represented by Nyiskii Inlet (lagoon) and Plastun Spit is investigated by modeling morphodynamic processes. The observable advance of Plastun Spit and displacement of the Anuchin Strait are explained by changes in the alongshore sediment flux transporting material to the end of the spit from the south. It is shown that severe storms combined with a surge and tide tend to deepen the lagoon bottom. The model of a tidal inlet system is proposed to describe the evolution of tidal flats under conditions of a relative rise in sea level. It is concluded that the volume of tidal flats can be reduced several times in the next 100 years. This trend should accelerate erosion of the inlet coasts due to decreased dissipation of the energy received from the open sea. 相似文献
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A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m3/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m3/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex. 相似文献
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I. O. Leont’yev 《Oceanology》2012,52(5):700-709
The proposed algorithm comprises three main steps. The first step is the evaluation of the sediment transport and budget. It was shown that the root segment of the Vistula Spit is dominated by eastward longshore sediment transport (up to 50 thousand m3/year). Over the rest of the spit, the shoreline??s orientation causes westward sediment transport (more than 100 thousand m3/year). The gradients of the longshore and cross shore sediment transport become the major contributors to the overall sediment balance. The only exception is the northeastern tip of the spit due to the appreciable imbalance of the sediment budget (13 m3m?1 yr?1). The second step in the prediction modeling is the estimation of the potential sea-level changes during the 21st century. The third step involves modeling of the shoreline??s behavior using the SPELT model [6, 7, 8]. In the most likely scenario, the rate of the recession is predicted to be about 0.3 m/year in 2010?C2050 and will increase to 0.4 m/year in 2050?C2100. The sand deficit, other than the sea-level rise, will be a key factor in the control of the shoreline??s evolution at the northeastern tip of the spit, and the amount of recession will range from 160 to 200 m in 2010?C2100. 相似文献
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Previous models of the evolution of Hurst Castle Spit over-emphasised longshore growth at the expense of other processes, particularly rise in sea-level. Initially, a Pleistocene valley system was submerged creating a tidal strait, the West Solent, between Christchurch Bay and the East Solent. This almost certainly caused a major hydrodynamic change, transforming much of Christchurch Bay and the West Solent from a low to a high tidal energy environment. Hurst Castle Spit and the Shingles Bank then began to form due to a combination of an easterly littoral drift, offshore gravel movement due to the high tidal energy, a rising sea-level, the transgression of Hurst Beach due to overwashing and the formation of recurves due to waves in the West Solent. The growth of the Shingles Bank due to offshore sediment movement from Hurst Castle Spit was of particular importance because of its influence on the wave energy along Hurst Beach. Significant local supplies of shingle in the vicinity of Hurst Castle Spit, reworked from Quatenary deposits, were also of importance. Thus, it is not a classic multi-recurved spit and the transgressive segment, Hurst Beach, has much in common with barrier coastlines.The same processes are continuing to shape Hurst Castle Spit at present, with the additional effects of human interference in the coastal sediment system. The construction of sea defences at Milford-on-Sea in the period 1936 to 1968 has modified the sediment budget and Hurst Castle Spit is experiencing a phase of rapid evolution: maximum recession rates have increased from 1.5m a−1 (1867–1968) to 3.5m a−1 (1968–1982). It is difficult to quantify the exact role of sea-level rise in the present evolution of Hurst Castle Spit.The future evolution of Hurst Castle Spit will depend largely on man. If there is no further interference, which is highly unlikely, the beach volume will continue to decline, resulting in a further increase in the rate of recession. Ultimately, a true tidal breach will probably form, marking a new phase in the evolution of Hurst Castle Spit and its environs. However, shingle renourishment, or another coastal engineering solution will probably be undertaken. The future rate of sea-level rise will have important long-term influences on all these options. 相似文献
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Andrew K. Laing 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(4):365-378
Wind data from the ERS‐1 scatterometer have been processed for New Zealand waters. These show spatial features of marine wind fields which have previously been difficult to resolve using conventional surface‐based measurements. Winds across the western access to Cook Strait, delineated by a corridor between Farewell Spit and western Taranaki, were analysed and profiles of wind stress extracted. These show characteristic structures for south‐easterly events in which the stress steadily increases from Farewell Spit towards the Taranaki Coast. In westerly or north‐westerly events the structure is more uniform. The mean stress across this corridor has been compared to that calculated from surface‐based measurements at Farewell Spit and the Maui‐A oil and gas production platform off Cape Egmont. The Farewell spit data lead to underestimates of the stress, which partially reconciles previous attempts to model wind‐driven currents off the west coast of the South Island from these data. In these the currents were underestimated. The Maui‐A data are unbiased in westerly events but give overestimates in southeasterly winds. An improved estimate of the mean stress can be derived from using a combination of wind data from these two stations. 相似文献
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This paper presents a new numerical model for shoreline change which can be used to model the evolution of shorelines with large curvature. The model is based on a one-line formulation in terms of coordinates which follow the shape of the shoreline, instead of the more common approach where the two orthogonal horizontal directions are used. The volume error in the sediment continuity equation which is thereby introduced is removed through an iterative procedure. The model treats the shoreline changes by computing the sediment transport in a 2D coastal area model, and then integrating the sediment transport field across the coastal profile to obtain the longshore sediment transport variation along the shoreline. The model is used to compute the evolution of a shoreline with a 90° change in shoreline orientation; due to this drastic change in orientation a migrating shoreline spit develops in the model. The dimensions of the spits evolving in the model compare favorably to previous model results and to field observation of the Skaw Spit in the north of Denmark. 相似文献
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The morphological changes of spits and inlets of the Chilika lagoon, the largest brackish water tropical coastal lagoon in Asia, are investigated using real-time kinematic GPS observation and numerical models during 2009–2013. The seasonal/interannual variations of the spit and inlet cross-sectional areas with varying widths and depths are recorded in association with different physical processes. The results show significant changes in spit morphology: particularly, the south spit accreted continuously, while the middle and north spits eroded. The cross-sectional depth of inlets becomes narrower and deeper during summer and winter seasons, while they are wider and shallower during the monsoon. The model results show that sediment transport rate is larger during monsoon and summer, while it is relatively less during the winter. Alongshore, sediment transport is predominantly northward throughout the study period. The result shows that gain/loss of the spits and closure/opening of inlets are significantly controlled by the high wave power, longshore drifts, and river discharge. The study demonstrates that the combined use of observational and numerical models is very effective to understand the changes of spit and inlet morphology and their impact on ecological conditions of the lagoon environment. 相似文献
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The origin and evolution history of the Curonian Spit in the Baltic Sea are discussed based on geological and geomorphologic data. Evidence of the correlation between the spit formation stages and the Holocene sea level oscillations is presented. The ledges of moraine basement and marine accumulative features formed a single barrier. Its subsequent transformation occurred under the influence of the wave-related lithodynamic and eolian processes. 相似文献
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This study aims at showing the sedimentary and geomorphological records of wave climate variations by spits. The studied spit (Arçay Spit) is located on the French Atlantic coast and has displayed a rapid elongation since the beginning of the 19th century that potentially represents a two century-long wave climate record. Wave climate and spit growth relationships are studied from two complementary methods: (1) numerical modelling of wave and longshore transport temporal and spatial variabilities, and (2) morphological monitoring based on the analysis of 4 historical maps (1811–1945), 8 aerial photographs (1945–2000) and 17 satellite SPOT images (1987–2005).Results at seasonal to interannual time-scales show that the sand spit area gain variations are the result of variations in longshore transport, themselves modulated mainly by wave height. Moreover, energetic swells seem to cause massive sand accumulation and spit elongation, whereas less energetic swells appear to be responsible for small sand accumulation and spit curvature. At longer time scale (decades to centuries), increasing spit growth phases are also synchronised with periods of energetic swells or high storm surge frequency. These results suggest that wave climate variations are the main factor controlling spit morphological evolutions. 相似文献
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长江口南汇嘴潮滩短期冲淤演变及其动力机制研究 总被引：1，自引：2，他引：1
潮滩地形的冲淤演变规律可以在一定程度上反映动力作用与地貌特征之间的相互耦合机制.根据近几年在长江口南汇嘴潮间带多断面连续观测资料,探讨区域内潮间带滩地的近期冲淤演变特征及其主要影响因子.研究结果表明:(1)南汇嘴潮滩近期主要呈现淤涨态势,而且年内过程季节性差异明显;受区位差异影响,不同观测断面的潮滩冲淤演变呈现特征不尽相同,断面1冲淤变化最为显著,年最大冲淤厚度均在10cm以上;(2)在波浪、潮流的作用下,区域内沉积物很容易被掀动悬扬,而且输沙环流系统的存在有利于悬沙向浅水区输运且在该区域内沉降淤积,从而为潮滩发育提供泥沙来源;(3)受"碧利斯"台风引起的风暴潮天气影响,研究区域内潮滩出现"大冲大淤"现象,即台风强侵蚀期过后滩面高程短期内恢复明显.由此可见,潮滩短期冲淤演变特征是各种动力因素作用下的综合体现. 相似文献