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沙质海岸沿岸输沙率的数值模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布.并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型. 相似文献
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任意水深变化水域非线性波数值模拟 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布。并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型。 相似文献
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海岸性质的界定,是港口航道减淤措施合理布置的关键。通过地形资料和现场测量资料对京唐港区的水下地形地貌特征、泥沙特性以及沿岸输沙特点等进行了分析研究。研究结果表明,京唐港区泥沙中值粒径大于0.06 mm、沉积物中黏土含量小于15%、岸滩坡度通常大于1/1 000;泥沙运动具有沿岸泥沙运动特征,但与沙质海岸又有所不同,存在复合沿岸输沙,尤其在风暴潮期间,大浪产生的破波沿岸流与风暴潮潮流叠加,产生更为强烈的沿岸输沙能力。在粉沙质海岸定义基础上,将京唐港区海岸界定为细沙粉沙质海岸。在京唐港区航道防波挡沙堤布置上考虑复合沿岸输沙,取得良好效果。 相似文献
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岬间海滩泥沙运动趋势与波能流分布的季节变化性 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
根据对粤东－岬间海滩冬夏季采集的表层泥沙的粒度分析结果,本文采用沉积物输运趋势概率模式对海滩泥沙沿岸运动方向作了统计分析,进而从波折射数值计算得到的波能流的沿岸分布讨论了对沿滩输沙的季节性效应。 相似文献
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应用现场实测波浪资料直接计算沿岸输沙率 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：4
本文应用波能流守恒法则，导得可直接应用现场实测波浪资料计算沿岸输沙率关系式。通过两个实例计算，说明计算值与实际沿岸输沙率一致。 相似文献
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利用风要素计算港湾沿岸输沙率的一个数学模式 总被引：1，自引：2，他引：1
本文利用风浪要素计算方法,依波能流守恒法则,建立了一个由风要素计算港湾沿岸输沙率的数学模式Ql=1.906×10-8g-0.97F1.03u2.94cos1.2α0sinα0(m3/s).这模式对于缺乏测波资料的风速较小,水深较大(gd/u2)的海湾、湖泊等环境的沿岸输沙率求算具有实用价值.与现有主要几种计算沿岸输沙率的数模和方法进行计算比对,本文模式的计算结果有较好可信性与准确性. 相似文献
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将由波浪作用下的细颗粒沉积物沿岸搬运而得到的计算公式 ,用于研究在波浪、沉积物性质和海底斜坡影响因素下悬浮物质垂直海岸的分布情况。公式主要应用于两个区域 :一是用于破浪带即从海岸带到破波带 ,二是用于从破波带向海到波折区。任何地方的悬浮沉积物浓度主要由底质沉积物的侵蚀或携带和侵蚀物质的沉降平衡来决定。这个公式已经应用于有沿岸流和悬浮物集中的三角洲盆地和中国黄海的连岛地区。如果能更好地掌握海底泥沙在海滩剖面上的侵蚀和搬运规律 ,这个公式可能更完善。1 计算公式悬浮沉积物单位时间垂直海岸的平均搬运速率即卸载… 相似文献
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长江河口悬浮泥沙向浙闽沿岸输运近期变化的遥感分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用2000~2015年Terra-MODIS(terra-moderate resolution imaging spectroradiometer,中等分辨率成像光谱仪)数据和2014年洪枯季现场数据建立泥沙反演模型,分析入长江河口泥沙大幅减少后河口表层悬沙向浙闽沿岸输运的时空变化和扩散形态。结果表明:(1)利用MODIS数据的二次型模型能够揭示长江口及邻近海域悬沙分布及输运特征,入海输运的长江口悬浮泥沙是浙闽沿岸连续悬浮泥沙带存在的物源;(2)受季风和沿岸流动力驱动,长江口悬沙向浙闽沿岸输运具有明显的季节性:春季,悬浮泥沙从长江口向浙闽沿岸呈条带状输运,春夏之交,南下的悬沙至温岭近岸海域出现中断现象;夏季,长江口大量悬沙滞留在长江口杭州湾近岸,仅有少量悬沙向南输运,泥沙带中断;秋季,10月下旬—11月中旬逐渐形成连续的近岸泥沙带;历冬至春,循环复始;(3)受近年来长江流域进入河口的泥沙减少影响,浙闽沿岸秋冬季连续的输沙带在春季提前断开,在秋季有推迟恢复的现象。本研究对于探究浙闽沿岸泥沙减少新格局,分析近海生态环境新变化具有重要意义。 相似文献
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A tidal entrance often acts as a source or a sink for sand in the littoral zone. At many entrances in biologically productive regions the bed in the vicinity of the throat section (minimum flow area) is composed of sediment containing coarse material including large shells, with sand occurring in the interstitial regions between the shell-defined roughness elements. A stochastic relationship giving the critical bed shear stress for the initiation of sand transport under these conditions is applied to hydraulic and sedimentary data obtained from two entrances in Florida. The results agree well with the critical bed shear stresses derived from data based on the observation of sand movement at the bed. The entrainment function based on observations is found to be approximately three times the value obtained from Shields' criterion. A practical implication is that the use of Shields' criterion in the computation of the rate of sand transport will in general overpredict the rate through the entrance. 相似文献
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山东省近海砂矿分类及其基本特征 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：3
根据砂矿产出的宏观海洋环境、矿种、形成时代、成矿作用和微地貌形态等要素，将山东省主要近海砂矿划分为2大类、13类、32亚类。初步探明具有工业价值的矿种有建筑用砂、石英砂、锆石、贝壳、球石、砂金等6个矿种，各类砂矿床约计86个。主要分布在莱州湾-荣成-青岛-岚山头一带的滨、浅海地区。近海砂矿资源将是山东省利用矿产资源的一个重要新领域。 相似文献
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Omran E. Frihy 《Geo-Marine Letters》2001,21(1):51-57
El Hamra mooring pier was constructed on the northwestern Mediterranean coast of Egypt to provide shipping services for offshore oil terminals. Although the pier was built on cylindrical piles to avoid the interruption of sediment transport towards the south, unexpected sedimentation has affected navigation and the attached fire-fighting system. To provide a basis for evaluating the sedimentation problem and to provide possible mitigation strategies, a 23-month measurement program was conducted, including measurements of hydrographic surveying, nearshore waves, longshore currents, longshore littoral transport, currents seawards of the breaker zone, and offshore currents. The results confirm that carbonate sediments are transported southwards to the pier embayment from adjacent up-coast ridges by wave-induced currents. These sediments result from extensive civil engineering works (recreational development) up-coast of the El Hamra region, involving leveling of subaerial carbonate ridges and onshore sediment disposal. 相似文献
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本文设计彩沙示踪法于厦大滨海沙滩东段进行试验 ,取得了沙粒运动方向、最大运移速度、扩散范围、沿岸输沙率及粒度分异运移状态等定量数据 ,弥补了以往示踪法难以定量分析的缺陷。结果表明 :调查期间 ,厦大滨海沙滩东段沙粒运动是构成厦门岛南岸岸滩在偏东向波浪作用下形成的西南向沿岸漂沙之一个环节 :沙粒大体平行岸线向北运动 ;沙粒沿岸最大运移速度为 2 0 0m/d ;经一个潮周期 ,沙粒向两侧的最大横向扩散距离为 2 0m ,最大垂直扩散深度达 7cm ;岸滩横断面沿岸输沙率为 42 5t/d ;在该岸段沿岸漂沙中 ,粗粒沙偏向低潮带一侧 ,而细粒沙偏向高潮带。 相似文献
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For a concave-up power Bruun beach profile, the following two energetics-based sediment transport models are developed: (1) a Bagnold-type model and (2) a combined wave-current stress model. The stress model is calibrated with the Bagnold model using observed transport rates on planar beaches. The sediment transport profiles for the two models are in agreement within the surf zone for the planar beach case; but the stress model is also applied seaward of the breaker line where the Bagnold model is not. A mean swash transport of sand is predicted by the Bagnold model for a power least-squares approximation to total depth including setup/setdown on a Bruun beach profile. The total longshore transport of sand is determined for each transport model as a function of the turbulent lateral mixing strength. The total sand transport is found to be less on a concave-up beach profile than for the corresponding planar beach case. 相似文献
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The characteristics of turbulence created by a plunging breaker on a 1 on 35 plane slope have been studied experimentally in a two-dimensional wave tank. The experiments involved detailed measurements of fluid velocities below trough level and water surface elevations in the surf zone using a fibre-optic laser-Doppler anemometer and a capacitance wave gage. The dynamical role of turbulence is examined making use of the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy (the k-equation). The results show that turbulence under a plunging breaker is dominated by large-scale motions and has certain unique features that are associated with its wave condition. It was found that the nature of turbulence transport in the inner surf zone depends on a particular wave condition and it is not similar for different types of breakers. Turbulent kinetic energy is transported landward under a plunging breaker and dissipated within one wave cycle. This is different from spilling breakers where turbulent kinetic energy is transported seaward and the dissipation rate is much slower. The analysis of the k-equation shows that advective and diffusive transport of turbulence play a major role in the distribution of turbulence under a plunging breaker, while production and dissipation are not in local equilibrium but are of the same order of magnitude. Based on certain approximate analytical approaches and experimental measurements it is shown that turbulence production and viscous dissipation below trough level amount to only a small portion of the wave energy loss caused by wave breaking. It is suggested that the onshore sediment transport produced by swell waves may be tied in a direct way to the unique characteristics of turbulent flows in these waves. 相似文献
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Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献