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1.
Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation. 相似文献
2.
台风引起的海浪灾害对我国黄、渤海沿岸影响巨大,严重威胁相关区域人民群众生命财产安全。本文主要利用ERA5(the fifth generation European Center for Medium-Range Weather forecasts atmospheric reanalysis of the global climate)风场研究了两类不同移动路径下的台风(1909号台风“利奇马”和1109号台风“梅花”)在黄、渤海区域的海浪场的时空分布特征及风-浪成长关系。结果表明:两个台风引起的海浪的有效波高空间分布明显不同,波高的分布和风速对应,而海浪周期与风速、波高的分布无明显相关性,波向较风向偏于台风移动方向且两者偏差较大;两个台风进入黄海之前就形成一个从黄海向渤海的“涌浪舌”。海浪成分方面,台风“利奇马”引起的沿海区大浪主要是风浪,而台风“梅花”移动路径的右侧以风浪为主,左侧则主要是涌浪;通过建立无因次波高与无因次周期的幂律关系、以及有效波高关于风速的二次多项式变化关系,研究了风-浪成长特性,结果发现,台风浪的成长特性与台风过程关系不明显,但与所处水域的水深和海底地形地貌有关,表现为两个台风在黄海区域的台风浪成长较渤海区域更为充分。 相似文献
3.
Naoto Ebuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):575-584
By using wind vector fields observed by the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT) and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX/POSEIDON and European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeters, one-dimensional fetch growth of wind waves has been investigated under conditions of strong wind and high waves caused by the East Asian winter monsoon in the Sea of Japan. The evolution of fetch-limited wind waves can be observed by the altimeters along their ground tracks. The fetch is estimated by using vector wind fields observed by NSCAT. The derived growth characteristics of wind waves are compared with empirical relationships between the non-dimensional fetch and significant wave height proposed by previous studies. Good agreement is discernible with Toba's fetch graph formula normalized by the friction velocity, while Wilson's well-known formula normalized by the wind speed at a height of 10 m tends to underestimate the wave height under such severe conditions of high wind and very long fetch. This discrepancy is explained by the wind-speed dependence of the drag coefficient. A simple correction to Wilson's formula for the high wind conditions is proposed and compared with the observed data. 相似文献
4.
Prediction of wave height and period for a constant wind velocity using the JONSWAP results 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
D.J.T. Carter 《Ocean Engineering》1982,9(1):17-33
The results of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), carried out in the North Sea in 1969, are used to derive formulae for significant wave height and wave period in terms of the wind speed (assumed constant) and fetch or duration. Values from the wave height formula are compared with those from the formulae of Bretschneider (1973) and Darbyshire (1963). It is proposed that the JONSWAP results be used for the prediction of fetch and duration limited waves formed under the action of the local wind field. 相似文献
5.
Koji Ueno 《Journal of Oceanography》1998,54(6):641-649
A state of wind waves at a fetch is assumed to be transformed into another state of wind waves at a different fetch by the
renormalization group transformation. The scaling laws for the covariance of water surface displacement and for the one-dimensional
and two-dimensional spectrum and the power law for the growth relation are derived from the fact that the renormalization
group transformation constitutes a semigroup. The scaling relation or the relation among the exponents of the power law is
also derived, using the two assumptions that the renormalization group transformation is applicable to fetch-limited wind
waves and that the saturated range exists, which implies that the directional distribution function of energy in the wave
number region much larger than the peak wave number does not depend on wave number. 相似文献
6.
For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties. 相似文献
7.
Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。 相似文献
8.
D. V. Ivonin V. A. Telegin P. V. Chernyshov S. A. Myslenkov S. B. Kuklev 《Oceanology》2016,56(4):591-600
We present the results of development and testing of a coastal X-band radar system for monitoring wind waves and currents at the Black Sea (near Gelendzhik) created on the basis of nautical radars. Radar measurements of wave heights were validated by data from a wave buoy and a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The conditions for successful radar measurements of waves in the coastal environment have been determined. It was shown that a radar with an aperture 1° could successfully measure wave heights at a distance of 1.2 km from the radar, when waves arrive at an angle of ±31° to the main sensing direction. In this case, for wave height measurements, the correlation coefficient between the radar and independent data is 0.82 and the standard deviation is 0.26 m. 相似文献
9.
Simulation of Typhoon-Driven Waves in the Yangtze Estuary with Multiple-Nested Wave Models 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII （WW3） for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale （3-hourly） and Yangtze Estuary scale （1-hourly） winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography. 相似文献
10.
《海洋技术学报》2023,(2)
本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11 月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据, 对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析, 并利用origin 软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明： 1#、2# 浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE, 常浪向有效波高均以0.2 ～ 0.4 m 小浪及3 ～ 4 s 短周期为主,有效波高1 m 以上较大波浪极少出现; 该海域波浪以风浪为主, 波浪破碎速度较快, 有效波高与风速相关性较强, 相关系数r 为0.71, 风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性, 该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。 相似文献
11.
Murray J. Smith Craig L. Stevens Richard M. Gorman John A. McGregor Cameron G. Neilson 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(5):985-1000
Locally generated wind‐waves in estuaries play an important role in the sediment dynamics and the transport of biota. Wave growth in estuaries is complicated by tidally varying depth, fetch, and currents. Wave development was studied at six sites along a transect across Manukau Harbour, New Zealand, which is a large intertidal estuary with a tidal range of up to 4 m. Three meteorological masts were also deployed across the measurement transect to measure wave forcing by the wind. A spatial variation in wind speed by up to a factor of 2 was observed which has a significant effect on wave development at short fetches. The wind variation can be explained by the extreme change in surface roughness at the upwind land‐water boundary. The tidally varying depth results in non‐stationary wave development. At the long fetch sites wave development is dictated by the tidally varying depth with peak frequencies continuing to decrease after high water, whereas wave height is attenuated by bottom friction. The non‐dimensional energy and peak frequency parameters commonly used to describe wave growth, clearly exhibit depth limiting effects, but with wider scatter than in previous studies in simpler environments. The peak frequency predictions of Young & Verhagen (1996a) fit our data well. However, the wide variability of energy limits the usefulness of standard growth prediction curves in such situations, and highlights the requirement for a validated, shallow‐water numerical model. 相似文献
12.
Sui Shifeng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1990,9(3):343-352
Owing to the fact that the wind speed and direction of typhoon vary rapidly with time and space in typhoon fetch; the nearer to the typhoon eye the greater the wind velocity, and the shorter the wind fetch the smaller the wind time,as a result,the more difficult for the wind wave to fully grow. Hence.in typhoon wave numerical calculation it is impossible to use the model for a fully grown wave spectrum. Lately, the author et at. presented a CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves, where a model for the growing wave spectrum was set up (see Eq. (2) in the text). The model involves a parameter indicating the growing degree of wind wave, i. e. ,the mean wave age β. When βvalue is small, the wave energy is chiefly concentrated near the peak frequency, so that the spectral peak gets high and steep; with the increase of β the spectral shape gradually gets lower and gentler; when β=Ⅰ, the wave fully grows, the growing spectrum becomes a fully grown P-M spectrum. The model also shows a spect 相似文献
13.
《海洋技术学报》2024,(1)
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。 相似文献
14.
Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions. 相似文献
15.
本文基于2017年634幅MODIS影像分析了安达曼海3个典型区域的内波空间分布特征，定量统计了波峰线长度、波包面积等特征参数，利用射线追踪法探讨了内波的潜在激发源并推算了内波的生成周期。研究表明，安达曼海北部海域的内波空间尺度较小，前导波波峰线的平均长度约为107 km，平均波包面积约为1 860 km2，内波的传播方向主要为东向以及西南向。安达曼海中部海域内波前导波波峰线的平均长度约为133 km，平均波包面积约为3 503 km2，超过70%的内波沿东偏北方向传播。苏门答腊岛北部海域内波前导波波峰线的平均长度约为131 km，平均波包面积约为2 997 km2，内波的传播方向主要为东向、东北向及东南向。安达曼海共有7个潜在内波激发源，内波的生成时间间隔介于11.5～13 h，具有明显的半日周期特征。 相似文献
16.
JUN Ki Cheon JEONG Weon Mu CHOI Jin Yong PARK Kwang Soon JUNG Kyung Tae KIM Mee Kyung CHAE Jang Won QIAO Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》2015,34(12):19-28
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of Cd for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction. 相似文献
17.
寒潮影响下江苏沿海风浪场数值模拟研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
基于第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型SWAN,建立自西北太平洋嵌套至东中国海、江苏沿海的三重嵌套模型,对2010年12月12日至15日江苏沿海寒潮大风引起的风浪过程进行了数值模拟研究。利用西北太平洋和江苏沿海实测数据对模型进行了验证,结果表明SWAN嵌套模型能较好地模拟江苏沿海寒潮风浪场的时空分布。通过响水站实测数据对江苏沿海底摩擦系数进行了率定,研究表明选取Collins拖曳理论中摩擦因数C_f=0.001时,有效波高模拟误差相对较小。寒潮风浪场的特征分析表明,有效波高分布与风场分布基本一致,寒潮风浪在江苏沿海北部影响较为显著,辐射沙洲附近由于其特殊地形影响相对较小。 相似文献
18.
For more and more applications in coastal and offshore engineering, numerical simulations of waves and surges are required. An important input parameter for such simulations are wind fields. They represent one of the major sources for uncertainties in wave and surge simulations. Wind fields for such simulations are frequently obtained from numerical hindcasts with regional atmospheric models (RAMs). The skill of these atmospheric hindcasts depends, among others, on the quality of the forcing at the boundaries. Furthermore, results may vary due to uncertainties in the initial conditions. By comparing different existing approaches for forcing a regional atmospheric model, it is shown that the models' sensitivity to uncertainties in the initial conditions may be reduced when a more sophisticated approach is used that has been suggested recently. For a specific, although somewhat brief test period, it is demonstrated that an improved hindcast skill for near surface wind fields is obtained when this approach is adopted. Consequences of the reduced uncertainty in wield fields for the hindcast skill of subsequent wave modelling studies are demonstrated. Recently, this new approach has been used together with a regional atmosphere model to produce a 40-year wind hindcast for the Northeast Atlantic, the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. The hindcast is presently extended to other areas and the wind fields are used to produce 40-year high-resolution hindcasts of waves and surges for various European coastal areas. 相似文献
19.
海南岛东南浅海表层沉积物粒度特征及沉积环境 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
对海南岛东南浅海377组表层沉积物样品(平均水深112.3 m)开展粒度测定及沉积物类型划分,并运用统计规律及沉积输运趋势分析,探讨了底质沉积物分布格局与物质来源及沉积动力环境关系。结果表明,海南岛东南浅海沉积物类型复杂,共分布13种沉积物类型,粒度组成以粉砂和砂为主,平均粒径均值为5.73Φ,优势粒级为细粉砂级(6~8Φ),分选差。不同海域沉积物粒径差异明显,北部近岸以含砾沉积为主,中部呈NE-SW向的砂质沉积区(水深80~120 m),西南近岸滨海、北中部海域以及东南部海域多为粉砂、黏土沉积。结合地理位置、沉积物源及水动力条件差异,研究区划分为3个沉积区:I区主要以含砾粗颗粒沉积为主,受控于海南岛上径流及强风浪作用,物质来源以万泉河等河流输运及岸线侵蚀物质为主,强动力(高能)沉积环境;II区以砂沉积为主,受到表层流及风浪等共同影响,可能主要是残留滨海沉积混入了海南岛径流及岸线侵蚀、少量珠江流域及外海复杂来源等现代细粒物质的混合沉积,中等动力沉积环境;III区以细粒沉积为主,主要受华南近岸流、风浪作用及南海暖流影响,推测物质来源主要为海南岛河流输入、岸线侵蚀及复杂外海来源细粒物质的加入,弱动力(低能)沉积环境。 相似文献
20.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献