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1.
Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation. 相似文献
2.
Naoto Ebuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):575-584
By using wind vector fields observed by the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT) and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX/POSEIDON and European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeters, one-dimensional fetch growth of wind waves has been investigated under conditions of strong wind and high waves caused by the East Asian winter monsoon in the Sea of Japan. The evolution of fetch-limited wind waves can be observed by the altimeters along their ground tracks. The fetch is estimated by using vector wind fields observed by NSCAT. The derived growth characteristics of wind waves are compared with empirical relationships between the non-dimensional fetch and significant wave height proposed by previous studies. Good agreement is discernible with Toba's fetch graph formula normalized by the friction velocity, while Wilson's well-known formula normalized by the wind speed at a height of 10 m tends to underestimate the wave height under such severe conditions of high wind and very long fetch. This discrepancy is explained by the wind-speed dependence of the drag coefficient. A simple correction to Wilson's formula for the high wind conditions is proposed and compared with the observed data. 相似文献
3.
Wind and waves are major forces affecting the geomorphology and biota in coastal areas. We present a generally applicable method for measuring and calculating fetch length, fetch direction and wave exposure. Fetch length and direction, measured by geographic information system-based methods, are used along with wind direction and wind speed data to estimate wave height and period by applying forecasting curves. The apparent power of waves approaching the shore, used as a proxy for wave exposure, is then calculated by a linear wave model. We demonstrate our method by calculating fetch lengths and wave exposure indices for five areas with varying exposure levels and types of meteorological conditions in the Finnish Archipelago Sea, situated in the northern Baltic Sea. This method is a rapid and accurate means of estimating exposure, and is especially applicable in areas with geomorphologically varying and complicated shorelines. We expect that our method will be useful in several fields, such as basic biogeographical and biodiversity research, as well as coastal land-use planning and management. 相似文献
4.
The characteristics of swells within the East China Sea have been reported by Tao et al.(2017), while the question of where the swells come from remains unanswered. By using the wave model WAVEWATCH III and the swell tracking method proposed by Hanson(2001), the spatial sources of the swells are investigated during four typical typhoon scenarios, which usually affect the wave environment in the East China Sea, including the Recurving type,the Northward type, the Westward type(striking the East China Sea) and the Westward type(over the South China Sea). The numerical results show that parts of the swells are from the North West Pacific with a long-distance travelling. The moving paths of the swells are affected by the typhoon tracks, which result in various fetches. The Westward type(over the South China Sea) makes one peak in the evolution process. The landing process of the Westward type(striking the East China Sea) could result in swells with low energy. The swell energy depends on swell propagation distance, existence time and wind intensity of generation fetch. The consistent fetch and forceful wind intensity make swell carry more energy. 相似文献
5.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper. 相似文献
6.
For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties. 相似文献
7.
1957～2002年南海—北印度洋海浪场波候特征分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用ERA-40海表10 m风场驱动第三代海浪数值模式WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ,得到南海—北印度洋1957年9月至2002年8月的海浪场,并分析其波候(风候)特征.研究发现如下主要特征:(1)该海域的波高波向、风速风向受季风影响显著;(2)北印度洋大部分海域的海表风速呈显著性逐年线性递增趋势,大约0.01～0.02 m/(s·a),南海线性递增的区域则较少,有效波高呈显著性逐年线性递增的区域主要集中在低纬度中东印度洋(约0.003～0.006 m/a)、索马里附近海域(大约0.002～0.005 m/a)、南海大部分海域(约0.002～0.004 m/a),线性递减的区域主要集中在孟加拉湾海域(约-0.002 m/a);(3)Nino3指数与南海—北印度洋的海表风场、浪场存在密切的关系;(4)南海—北印度洋的海表风速与有效波高存在5.2a左右的共同周期,南海的海表风速、有效波高还存在2.0a左右的共同周期,北印度洋的海表风速、有效波高还存在26.0a的长周期震荡. 相似文献
8.
为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4～5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7～14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。 相似文献
9.
1988—2009年中国海波候、风候统计分析 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
利用高精度、高时空分辨率、长时间序列的CCMP(Cross-Calibrated,Multi-Platform)风场,驱动国际先进的第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ(WW3),得到中国海1988年1月～2009年12月的海浪场。对中国海的波候(风候)进行精细化的统计分析,分析了海表风场和浪场的季节特征、极值风速与极值波高、风力等级频率和浪级频率、海表风速和波高的逐年变化趋势,结果显示:(1)中国海的海浪场与海表风场具有较好的一致性,尤其是在DJF(December,January,February)期间;海表风速和波高在MAM(March,April,May)期间为全年最低,在DJF期间达到全年最大;MAM和JJA(June,July,August)期间,中国海大部分海域的波周期在3～5.5s,SON(September,October,November)和DJF期间为4.5～6.5s。(2)中国海极值风速、极值波高的大值区分布于渤海中部海域、琉球群岛附近海域和台湾以东广阔洋面、台湾海峡、东沙群岛附近海域、北部湾海域、中沙群岛南部海域。(3)吕宋海峡在MAM、SON、DJF期间均为6级以上大风和4m以上大浪的相对高频海域,JJA期间,6级以上大风的高频海域位于中国南半岛东南部海域,4m以上大浪主要出现在10°N以北。(4)在近22a期间,中国海大部分海域的海表风速、有效波高呈显著性逐年线性递增趋势,风速递增趋势约0.06～0.15m.s-1.a-1,波高递增趋势约0.005～0.03m.a-1。 相似文献
10.
K. A. Abhinav 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2017,35(6):817-828
This paper analyzes the influence of scour on the overall response of monopile-supported offshore wind turbines (OWTs) in 20-m water depth. Scouring effects on OWTs have been often studied within the geotechnical domain, considering static loads at the mudline. The present work attempts to address the scour-induced problems in OWTs by making use of an integrated aerodynamic–hydrodynamic load approach in sandy soils. The OWT analysis is simulated for operational and shut-down (parked) condition. Under parked situations, the OWT blades are feathered, and power production is suspended, owing to structural safety concerns. The 50 Monte Carlo responses of stochastic sea-state condition (wind speed with turbulence, significant wave height, and peak spectral period) are generated. Irregular, long-crested waves are generated using the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) spectrum. Then from each simulation, the ensemble response is obtained. Sandy soils of varying densities are considered. Results indicate that OWTs founded on loose sands suffer significant stiffness (and hence natural frequency) reductions, shifting the structure into the resonance regime. Lateral responses also show an escalation with reduction in density of sandy soil. 相似文献
11.
C. Graham 《Coastal Engineering》1982,6(4)
This study sets out to define the basic forms in which wind speed and wave height persistence statistics may be defined for offshore engineering applications, and describes the development of a mathematical persistence model.The model incorporates some of the principles laid down by other workers, but it is fundamentally based on a new concept for parameterising persistence statistics, linking wind speed and sea state percentage probability of exceedance with the persistence average duration.North Sea measured wind and wave data have been used to calibrate and test the model. During the course of these test runs it proved necessary to fine tune the basic Weibull equation of the model, but following these adjustments the model runs were found to correlate well with the measured data.It is concluded that the model may be used to predict wind speed and wave height persistence statistics with acceptable accuracy for preliminary stage oil industry planning purposes and that the calibrated model has particular application for those areas where little measured data are currently available. 相似文献
12.
Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。 相似文献
13.
降雨条件下的导航X波段雷达海浪参数反演算法研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
X波段的电磁波受降雨影响容易产生衰减,这导致导航X波段雷达在降雨时无法用于海浪观测。本文提出了一种新的降低降雨影响的算法来反演海浪参数。首先,对X波段雷达图像做主成分分析,获得波浪变化的主成分,利用一维傅里叶变换得到波数谱,对其滤波减小降雨对雷达图像的影响;然后,选取JONSWAP(Joint North Sea Wave Project)谱作为理论谱,建立以观测谱与理论谱的最小化差异为目标函数的模型,求解该模型估算海浪的有效波高。与浮标测量的有效波高相比,该方法反演的有效波高的均方根误差是0.23 m,证明了该方法的可行性。 相似文献
14.
Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(4):467-483
The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit 相似文献
15.
从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。 相似文献
16.
JUN Ki Cheon JEONG Weon Mu CHOI Jin Yong PARK Kwang Soon JUNG Kyung Tae KIM Mee Kyung CHAE Jang Won QIAO Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》2015,34(12):19-28
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of Cd for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction. 相似文献
17.
L. H. Holthuijsen 《Ocean Engineering》1988,15(2)
The potential accuracy of local models is investigated to determine the mean direction of waves from the time history of locally observed significant wave height (or peak frequency) and locally observed wind. This is done by comparing results of such models with observations at a location in the southern North Sea for a period of six weeks. The model results are also compared with results of two synoptic models which require large scale wind information to estimate the local mean wave direction.For significant wave heights larger than 1.5 m the rms-error of the estimated mean wave direction was about 30° for the best performing local model and about 15° for the best performing synoptic model. 相似文献
18.
为对黄海北部海域的风浪分布规律研究提供参考,文章利用2008-2017年的ERA-I再分析资料,对位于獐子岛东南小海区的风场和海浪场进行统计分析。研究结果表明：风力等级越高,风推浪预测准确率相对越低;对于4～8级风,风力等级与平均波高之间的关系接近线性,但二次拟合的效果更好,拟合优度达到0.984 2;受数据分辨率所限,持续大风条件下海浪成长至少需要６ h;6级风最多持续2天（48 h）,波高最大接近3 m,7级风最多持续18 h,波高最大接近3.6 m,6～7级风最多持续66 h;6～8级风下大概率出现N-NW风向,风向出现频次由高到低依次为北风、南风、西风、东风;7级风在北风下的出现频次最高,不大于6级风时北风的对应波高比其他风向大0.5 m左右。 相似文献
19.
1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。 相似文献
20.
More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献