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1.
台风浪灾害在山东半岛沿海时常发生，对人类生命财产和基础设施构成很大威胁，因此，对山东半岛海域台风浪的危险性分析具有重要的现实意义。本研究使用ADCIRC+SWAN耦合数值模式采用Holland模型风场与NCEP再分析风场组合的风场驱动，对1979—2018年36次台风过境期间的海浪过程进行了模拟。以台风过境时最大有效波高及历时频数作为危险性评价指标，给出了山东半岛近岸台风浪强度等级分布、历时频数分布以及危险性指数分布。研究结果显示，山东半岛北部为台风浪低危险区，台风浪强度等级低且历时短；南部二级强度（有效波高范围为1.3—2.5m）以上台风浪发生较为频繁，危险性高于北部；东部台风浪强度可以达到四级（有效波高4m以上），危险性最高。 相似文献
2.
利用东矶列岛海域一年实测波浪资料,统计分析波要素特征,以台风“利奇马”为例,分析台风浪演变过程。结果表明：研究海域年平均有效波高0.88 m,年平均周期4.3 s,年最大波高8.67 m出现在夏季台风“利奇马”影响时。研究海域以轻浪为主,其次是小浪和中浪;常浪向为ESE,次常浪向为E和SE;强浪向为SSE,次强浪向为SE。波浪平均持续时间和波高之间符合指数衰减关系。台风“利奇马”影响期间,最大谱峰56.20 m2/Hz,台风浪谱型以双峰谱为主,台风浪类型经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪—涌浪这一演变过程。 相似文献
3.
Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Tarmo Soomere 《Journal of Sea Research》2003,49(4):305
The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites. 相似文献
4.
SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。 相似文献
5.
渤海波浪和潮汐风暴潮相互作用对波浪影响的数值研究 总被引：11，自引：2，他引：11
基于依赖波浪成长状态波令的表面风应力，提出了一个波浪和风暴潮潮汐运动相互作用的联合数值模式，实现了第三代波浪模式和三维风暴潮潮汐模式联合作用的数值研究，并结合渤海典型天气个例的研究，给出了渤海波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的机制和大小量级的定量估计。研究表明，对不同天气过程，波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的性质和大小不同；对强寒潮过程，对波浪影响主要由风暴潮所支配波高调制可达1m，在黄河口区一般达0．5m；对弱天气过程，对波浪影响主要由潮所控制，波高调制约在0．2m，联合作用模式给出的结果与实测更吻合。 相似文献
6.
本文在南海北部海底沙波已有研究的基础上，总结分析了研究区表层沉积物以及沙波的形态、分布、迁移特征；使用区域海洋模式（ROMS）模型模拟了研究区2010-2011年的底部流场数据；利用Rubin公式模拟计算了海底沙波的迁移规律，并与搜集所得资料进行对比分析；结合台风资料及底流数据，分析了台风对海底沙波运移的影响。研究结果显示:海底沙波运移方向的计算结果与搜集所得资料比较吻合，均为向东向南方向；不同站点的迁移距离在0~21.8 m之间，且为往复累积的结果。这表明:Rubin公式在ROMS模型模拟所得底流资料的支撑下，可以再现海底沙波的迁移过程。模拟计算的研究区内两个站位在"凡亚比"台风影响期间的迁移距离分别为2.0 m、2.9 m，分别占其年运移量的9.17%和26.36%，说明台风过境能对海底沙波的迁移产生重大的影响。 相似文献
7.
It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible. 相似文献
8.
《海洋技术学报》2023,(2)
本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11 月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据, 对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析, 并利用origin 软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明： 1#、2# 浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE, 常浪向有效波高均以0.2 ～ 0.4 m 小浪及3 ～ 4 s 短周期为主,有效波高1 m 以上较大波浪极少出现; 该海域波浪以风浪为主, 波浪破碎速度较快, 有效波高与风速相关性较强, 相关系数r 为0.71, 风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性, 该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。 相似文献
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10.
The size and shape of the effective test area are crucial to consider when short-crested waves are created by segmented wavemakers. The range of the effective test area of short-crested waves simulated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is analyzed in this paper. The experimental investigation on the wave field distribution of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is conducted by using an array of wave gauges. Wave spectra and directional spreading function are analyzed and the results show that when the main direction is at a certain angle with the normal line of wave generators, the wave field of 3D short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers has good spatial uniformity within the model test area. The effective test area can provide good wave environments for seakeeping model tests of various ocean engineering structures in the deep ocean engineering basin. 相似文献
11.
利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响。结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10~60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°~1°;平面上沙波区呈一系列NW-SE向条带状坡地,波脊呈线性或新月形,波脊轴线为SW-NE方向,沙波波长为120~800 m,波高2~12 m,沙波指数较大(>30)。地震剖面显示,波形形态主要分为三类:近对称性沙波、非对称性沙波及叠合沙波。近对称性沙纹的波高较大,沙波指数小;非对称性沙波的波长较长,沙波指数大;稳定沙波经后期水流“改造、激活”形成叠合沙波。砂含量较高,沉积物类型以砂、粉砂质砂及砂质粉砂为主,多为细砂—中砂。厦门湾口外的近岸陆架区水动力较强,流系复杂,总体受浙闽沿岸流、南海表层流和黑潮分支的影响。本区为不正规半日潮,流速为0.3~0.7 m/s,落潮流以S向为主,涨潮流向以NNE向为主,潮流作用对沙波的发育和改造起重要影响。 相似文献
12.
An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups
In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves. 相似文献
13.
江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加. 相似文献
14.
台风往往会带来强风、大浪、风暴潮。强潮大浪给长江口深水航道整治工程的维护带来挑战。构建了覆盖中国海的台风浪—风暴潮耦合数学模型,模拟了台风“烟花”作用下长江口北槽水域波浪的发展过程,分析了长江口北槽水域波浪分布特点和台风强度。研究表明：叠加风场和潮汐模式共同驱动的台风浪―风暴潮耦合模型,可以准确模拟台风期间长江口水域波浪的生成和发展过程;“烟花”台风期间,外海大浪以东方向浪为主,长江口北槽南挡沙堤沿线有效波高最大值介于1.61~5.22 m之间,自东向西逐渐衰减;台风过程中,长江口北槽水域有效波高在台风二次登录时刻达到最大,口门处有5. 0 m以上大浪;依据台风过程中长江口风速及外海波高、周期与参考规范值对比分析得出,“烟花”台风过程波浪强度约为50年一遇。 相似文献
15.
海南东方岸外海底沙波活动性研究 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
对海南东方岸外 2 0～ 50 m水深海底沙波形成的动力环境、形态特征、剖面结构及其分布特征进行了描述和分析。根据环境参数 ,对其活动性进行了计算 ,并将计算结果与发育环境相类似的 Surtainville沙波进行了类比。认为研究区沙波主要系在潮流作用下形成。研究区沙波迁移速率为每年数米。东区 (水深 2 0～ 40 m)是沙波发育的主体 ,受落潮流作用 ,沙波自北向南迁移 ;西区 (水深 36～ 52 m)沙波受涨潮流控制自南向北迁移 ;中区为过渡区 ,沙波相对稳定 相似文献
16.
Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data. 相似文献
17.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
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19.
A. Warn-Varnas J. Hawkins K.G. Lamb S. Piacsek S. Chin-Bing D. King G. Burgos 《Ocean Modelling》2010,31(1-2):9-27
A high resolution modeling study is undertaken, with a 2.5-dimensional nonhydrostatic model, of the generation of internal waves induced by tidal motion over the ridges in Luzon Strait. The model is forced by the barotropic tidal components K1, M2, and O1. These tidal components, along with the initial density field, were extracted from data and models. As the barotropic tide moves over the Luzon Strait sills, there is a conversion of barotropic tidal energy into baroclinic tidal energy. Depressions are generated that propagate towards the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX) test site on the Chinese continental shelf. Nonlinear effects steepen the depressions, frequency and amplitude dispersion set in, and disintegration into large amplitude solitary waves occurs. The effects of varying the initial density field, tidal component magnitudes, as well as adding a steady background current to represent the occasional excursions of the Kuroshio Current into the strait, are considered.Depressions are generated at each of the two sills in Luzon Strait which radiate away, steepening and evolving into internal solitary wave trains. Baroclinic fluxes of available potential energy, kinetic energy and linear are calculated for various parameter combinations. The solitary wave trains produced in the simulations generally consist of large amplitude wave trains alternating with small amplitude wave trains. During strong tidal flow, Kelvin–Helmholtz type instabilities can develop over the taller double-humped sill. The solitary waves propagating towards the ASIAEX test site have been observed to reach amplitudes of 120–250 m, depending on the tidal strength. ASIAEX observations indicate amplitudes up to 150 m and the Windy Island Experiment (WISE) measurements contain magnitudes over 200 m. The model results yield solitary wave amplitudes of 70–300 m and half widths of 0.60–3.25 km, depending on parameter values. These are in the range of observations. Measurements by Klymak et al. (2006), in the South China Sea, exhibit amplitudes of 170 m, half widths of 3 km and phase speeds of 2.9 m s?1. Model predictions indicate that the solitary waves making up the wave packet each experience different background currents with strong near surface shear.The energy in the leading soliton of the large amplitude wave trains ranges between 1.8 and 9.0 GJ m?1. The smaller value, produced using barotropic tidal currents based on the Oregon State University data base, is the same as the energy estimated to be in a solitary wave observed by Klymak et al. (2006). Estimates of the conversion of barotropic tidal energy into radiating internal wave energy yield conversion rates ranging between 3.6% and 8.3%. 相似文献
20.
Effect of Langmuir circulation (LC) on upper ocean mixing is investigated by a two-way wave-current coupled model. Themodel is coupled of the ocean circulationmodel ROMS (regional ocean modeling system) to the surface wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore) via the model-coupling toolkit. The LC already certified its importance by many one-dimensional (1D) research andmechanismanalysis work. This work focuses on inducing LC’s effect in a three-dimensional (3-D) model and applying it to real field modeling. In ROMS, theMellor-Yamada turbulence closuremixing scheme is modified by including LC’s effect. The SWAN imports bathymetry, free surface and current information fromthe ROMS while exports significant wave parameters to the ROMS for Stokes wave computing every 6 s. This coupled model is applied to the South China Sea (SCS) during September 2008 cruise. The results show that LC increasing turbulence and deepening mixed layer depth (MLD) at order of O (10 m) in most of the areas, especially in the north part of SCS where most of our measurements operated. The coupled model further includes wave breaking which will bringsmore energy into water. When LC works together with wave breaking,more energy is transferred into deep layer and accelerates the MLD deepening. In the north part of the SCS, their effects aremore obvious. This is consistent with big wind event in the area of the Zhujiang River Delta. The shallow water depth as another reasonmakes themeasy to influence the oceanmixing as well. 相似文献