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海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。 相似文献
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南海中尺度海洋现象研究概述 总被引：15，自引：1，他引：15
南海是一个地形复杂的半封闭海盆，受季风，黑潮等因素的作用南海呈现独特的中尺度变异特征，一些中尺度信号的强度可以和南海定常环流的强度相比拟，甚至更强，本文回顾了近20a来南海中尺度海洋现象研究的进展，并就南海的黑潮入侵，黑潮涡环，次海盆尺度多涡环流，浅海亚潮波动，近岸陷波，海洋锋等中尺度现象做若干探讨。 相似文献
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The responses to tropical cyclones of ocean wave characteristics in deep water of the western Atlantic Ocean have been investigated
extensively, but not the regional seas in the western Pacific such as the South China Sea (SCS), due to a lack of observational
and modeling studies there. Since monsoon winds prevail in the SCS but not in the western Atlantic Ocean, the SCS is unique
for investigating wave characteristics during a typhoon’s passage in conjunction with steady monsoon wind forcing. To do so,
the Wavewatch-III (WW3) is used to study the response of the SCS to Typhoon Muifa (2004), which passed over not only deep
water but also the shallow shelf of the SCS. The WW3 model is forced by the NASA QuikSCAT winds and tropical cyclone wind
profile model during Typhoon Muifa’s passage from 0000UTC 16 on November to 1200UTC on 25 November 2004. The results reveal
the unique features of the SCS wave characteristics in response to Muifa, such as non-decaying, monsoon-generated swell throughout
the typhoon period and strong topographic effects on the directional wave spectrum. 相似文献
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基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
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变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。 相似文献
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Based on historical wind fields in the Bohai Sea,a sequence of annual extremal wave heightsis produced with numerical wave models for deep-water and shallow water.The design wave heights withdifferent return periods for the nearest deep-water point and for the shallow water point are estimated onthe basis of P-Ⅲ type,Weibull distribution,and Gumbel distribution;and the corresponding values for theshallow water point are also estimated based on the HISWA model with the input of design wave heightsfor the nearest deep-water point.Comparisons between design wave heights for the shallow water point es-timated on the basis of both distribution functions are HISWA model show that the results from differentdistribution functions scatter considerably,and influenced strongly by return periods;however,the resultsfrom the HISWA model are convergent,that is,the influence of the design wave heights estimated with dif-ferent distribution functions for deep water is weakened,and the estimated values decrease for long 相似文献
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黄东海灾害地质类型及声学反射特征 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
高分辨率声学剖面资料是识别海洋灾害地质现象的有效手段。该文利用国家“12 6”专项调查在黄东海海域获得的各种声学剖面及历史资料 ,在黄东海海底及浅层识别出多种灾害地质类型 ,如潮成沙脊、沙波、古河道、断层、浅层气等。根据对它们的声学特征及成因机制的分析 ,作者认为 :潮流是黄东海海底表层灾害地质形成的主要动力因素 ;而浅层灾害地质因素以古河道、断层、浅层气等为主。 相似文献
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浅海水下地形的SAR遥感仿真研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
结合连续性方程和布拉格后向散射模型,在准一维简化浅海水下地形情况下,建立了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型,将浅海水下地形区域的SAR海面后向散射强度的相对变化与大尺度背景流场、海面风场和雷达系统参数等联系起来.海上实验和研究结果表明,浅海水下地形的SAR成像主要由通过受水下地形影响的海表层流场对海表面风引起的微尺度波的水动力调制而获取浅海水下地形信息,其中潮流与水下地形的相互作用过程改变海表层流场,变化的海表层流与海表面微尺度波之间的相互作用改变海表面波的空间分布,雷达波与海表面波之间的相互作用决定雷达海面后向散射强度.因此SAR图像中浅海水下地形或水深信息量的多少不仅与海表层流场和海面风速有关,而且与雷达工作波段、雷达波束入射角和极化方式也密切相关.认为由水下地形变化引起的缓慢变化的表层流场中海表面定常微尺度波谱能量密度的变化满足波作用量谱平衡方程;而在波数空间中,海表面微尺度波谱的成长过程也可以用波数谱平衡方程描述,在此基础上,得出了海表面波高频谱(毛细-重力波)形式的解析表达式.众所周知,浅海水下地形信息是由于水下地形影响下SAR海面后向散射强度与背景海面后向散射强度的相对差异而在SAR图像上的呈现,从而在建立浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度仿真模型的基础上,仿真计算了浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度相对于海表层流场、海面风场等海况参数和SAR工作波段、SAR波束入射角、极化方式等雷达系统参数的数值仿真结果,分析得到了有关浅海水下地形SAR海面相对后向散射强度的特征和SAR浅海水下地形遥感的最佳海况参数与最佳雷达系统参数,为研究和开展SAR浅海水下地形遥感研究提供了有价值的参考. 相似文献
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In coastal sea areas with the bimodal Ochi-Hubble wave spectrum, such as parts of the China Sea and Indian Ocean,wave energy is the superposition of wind wave and swell. Traditional heaving buoy wave energy converters developed with narrowband wave spectrums suffer from big energy loss in these areas, leading to lower power absorption efficiency and higher generating costs. In contrast, multi-freedom buoy has different resonant frequencies and maximal power capture wave frequencies in different ... 相似文献
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The results of axial stress-strain measurements made from short columnar samples of seafloor shallow surface sediment in the southern South China Sea area indicate that there are three kinds of variations in the longitudinal wave sound velocity, which are related to such characteristics as physical-mechanical properties, grain contact status and grain structure and microstructure of the submarine shallow surface sediment. This study may make theoretical contributions to further understanding the reliability of various submarine sediments in the southern South China Sea as bearing interfaces and such scientific objectives as phonotelemetering and remote sensing of the engineering mechanical properties of seafloor sediment. 相似文献
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Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(4):467-483
The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit 相似文献
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WANG Sheng''an LONG Xiaomin ZHANG Keben CHEN Junchang ZHANG Wenjing CAI Shuqun 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(3):160-166
Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement. 相似文献
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Intrusion of less saline shelf water into the Kuroshio subsurface layer in the East China Sea 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
The possible origin and cause of the less saline shelf water detected in the Kuroshio subsurface layer around the shelf edge
of the East China Sea are investigated using observational results obtained in May 1998–2001 in conjunction with a dataset
archived by Japan Oceanographic Data Center and a numerical model. The observations show that subsurface intrusions of less
saline water are always detected in May in layers above 24.5σθ isopycnal surface, and that salinity inversions (i.e., areas
in which the less saline water lies beneath the saline water) are detected around the trough of the Kuroshio frontal eddy
(or wave). Analyses of the archived dataset reveal that the isopycnal surface of 24.5σθ is the deepest layer of the Kuroshio
pycnocline outcropping to the sea surface on the shallow shelf in early spring. Outcropping isopycnals above 24.5σθ encounter
a less saline water plume originating from the Changjiang, especially in the western East China Sea. Thereafter, the less
saline water moves along isopycnal layers and reaches the Kuroshio front around the shelf edge. Numerical models demonstrate
that, when the frontal wave captures the less saline water, the shelf water takes the form of a salinity inversion in the
trough because isohalines in the frontal wave have a phase lag between the upper and lower layers in consequence of the baroclinic
instability. 相似文献
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On the basis of perennial monthly mean temperature and salinity data, the classification of monthly water masses at the surface and the bottom in the Bohai Sea, the Huanghai Sea and the East China Sea, has been made by using the method of fuzzy cluster from the modified characteristic of water masses in the shallow water area. In this paper, the basic features, growth and decline patterns of water masses in relation to fishing grounds in the whole shelves of the Bohai Sea, the Huanghai Sea and the East China Sea are discussed with emphasis. 相似文献
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采用TOMAWAC模型模拟近岸40年的波浪要素。波谱计算采用36个方向,模拟波周期范围为1.5～29 s,并对极值波况进行分析。统计了1979—2018年间有效波高的年极值,算得百年一遇的有效波高,发现百年一遇波高由北往南总体呈现增大趋势:渤海和黄海的百年一遇的波高不超过10 m;东海百年一遇的波高在15～22 m之间;南海北部百年一遇波高的范围比较大,靠近台湾部分最大达到了22 m,海南岛西部较小,在10～15 m之间。引用SET值相关指标对极端波浪的发生次数、持续时间和强度进行分析,发现渤海、黄海北部、台湾海峡以及南海西北部极端事件频繁发生,平均每年有5～7次,台湾岛西南部极端事件的平均历时最大,达到了32 h。 相似文献
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Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(1):15-39
The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h 相似文献
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尝试性地将南黄海灾害地质因素分为4大类。同时参考地貌沉积界线和其他因素将南黄海分成4个灾害地质区：即海岸带、苏北浅滩、海州湾和南黄海东部灾害地质区，并时各灾害地质区进行了定性评价，苏北浅滩灾害地质区是研究区内灾害地质环境最不稳定的区域。 相似文献
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In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. 相似文献