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1.
Water surface elevations(t), vertical surface velocities
and vertical surface acceleration
of wind-generated waves have been measured in a laboratory wind wave channel by using resistance-type wave gauges combined with an electronic differentiation circuits. Probability distributions of the values of(t),
, and
have been determined from the wave records.In an initial stage of wave generation,i.e., when wind waves are generated at short fetches and low wind speeds, the observed distributions for(t),
and
are appreciately good fit to the distributions given by successive sum of a Gram-Charlier series, which has been derived following the formulation ofLonguet-Higgins (1963), by taking the weakly nonlinear effect into account.However, when wind waves develop with increasing wind speeds and fetches, the observed distributions deviate gradually from the Gram-Charlier series. Particularly, the deviations are remarkable for the distribution of
.When the wind speed increases, the observed distributions of(t),
and
show the following characteristics: (i) the skewnesses of the distributions of(t) and
decrease slightly, (ii) the skewness of
changes, at some wind speed, from positive small values to relatively large negative values, (iii) the kurtosis of the distribution of(t) decreases slightly but that of
increases slightly and these characteristics seem to depend not so much on fetches, (iv) the kurtosis of the distribution of
increases rapidly. 相似文献
2.
Motoaki Kishino Takashi Ishimaru Ken Furuya Tomohiko Oishi Kiyoshi Kawasaki 《Journal of Oceanography》1998,54(5):431-436
In-water algorithms for OCTS standard products were developed using in situ data and installed for operationally processing
at NASDA/EOC. This paper describes the in-water algorithms Version 1.0 for chlorophylla concentration, pigment concentration, and attenuation coefficient at a wavelength of 490 nm. The selected OCTS standard algorithms
(Ver. 1.0) are as follows:
相似文献
3.
The temporal variation of the partial pressure of carbon dioxide
in surface seawater of Iyo Nada in the western Seto Inland Sea was measured by infrared absorption of carbon dioxide (CO2) in air equilibrated with seawater. The variation of
from January to late May in 1994 was relatively small (from 270 to 340 atm). on the contrary, the
measured in September 1993 ranged from 200 to 450 atm. It seems that the relative high
observed in the north and the south of Iyo Nada in September were caused by destruction of a stratification owing to tidal currents at straits between Hiroshima Bay and Iyo Nada and Hayasui Straits, respectively. The low
observed in the central Iyo Nada in September was ascribed to a tidal front where high concentrations of chlorophyll-a and a relation between
and chlorophyll-a in negative sense were found. Except the observation in the north of Iyo Nada in September, the
in the surface seawater of Iyo Nada were lowe than the atmospheric
(about 367 atm). The results obtained by this work and Kimotoet al. (1993) lead to the conclusion that Iyo Nada acts as a sink of the atmospheric CO2 on the average. 相似文献
4.
Mitsuhiko Hatori 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(1):1-11
Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K
3=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K
4=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness
, but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed
. It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies. 相似文献
5.
Local equilibrium of winds and wind-waves is discussed as a basis for research of the drag coefficient of the water surface as well as for the spectral growth of wind-waves. This hypothesis assumes, in a narrow sense, that statistical properties are determined from four physical quantities, which represent winds and wind-waves: the friction velocityu
*, the gravitational accelerationg, the powerE of the surface displacement, and the peak frequency
p
of a wind-wave spectrum. Then one has only one nondimensionalcontrol parameter, which may be either the wave age or wave nonlinearity (slope) of dominant waves. In a wide-sense, one can take into account viscosity and surface tension in terms of one more additional parameter by virtue of the virtual invariance of those material constants; that parameter describes the scale ratio between dominant waves and the short waves for which viscosity or surface tension is important. A unified expression for the roughness height according to this hypothesis turns out to include Charnock's and Toba's formulas as special cases. On the basis of a preliminary analysis of the experimental data, a new empirical formula is proposed. 相似文献
6.
Tomonori Matsuura 《Journal of Oceanography》1986,42(5):362-372
Effects of the Ekman friction on the prograde (eastward) flows past a cylinder on a-plane are investigated when
(=R
2/U, whereR is the cylinder radius andU the freestream speed)O(1) and(=2E
k
1/2/R
0·O(1) where
is the non-dimensional beta parameter and the ratio of the square root of the Ekman numberE
k
multiplied by 2 to the Rossby numberRo multiplied by the aspect ratio(=H/R, whereH is the fluid depth). Previous studies without the Ekman friction have shown that the-effect inhibits flow separation for pragrade flows through the asymptotic boundary condition by shifting the region of the adverse pressure gradient toward the rear stagnation point. It is found that the Ekman friction alleviates this-effect on the exterior flow. In the Ek
1/4-boundary layer, on the other hand, Ekman friction suppresses the vorticity advection along the wall, which tends to make the boundary layer thickness thin and delay the flow separation. The Ekman friction thus affects flow separation in a complicated manner. Details of the boundary layer structures and the separation angles are described for 0.3<
<4.0 and 0.1<<1.5. 相似文献
7.
A formulation for the aerodynamic roughness length of air flow over wind waves $$z_0 = \gamma {\text{ }}u_* /\sigma p$$ which was proposed by Toba (1979) and Toba and Koga (1986) from dimensional considerations with some data analysis, is shown to correspond with a formulation for irregular solid surfaces $$(z_0 /h) = a(h/l)^{1 + \beta } $$ which resulted from work by Woodinget al. (1973) and Kustas and Brutsaert (1986);u * is the friction velocity,σ p the spectral peak frequency of wind waves,h the mean height of the solid obstacles,l the mean distance between their crests, andα,Β, andγ are constants. This correspondence is reached by the existence of a statistical 3/2-power law and an effective dispersion relationship for wind waves. Because both approaches of parameterizingz 0 were arrived at independently, they provide each other mutual reinforcement. 相似文献
8.
Tsuyoshi Samukawa Masamitsu Onitsuka Kazuyuki Ohta Mamoru Tominaga Hidenori Yoshiyama 《Journal of Oceanography》1992,48(2):129-138
In the marine environment, colloidal sulfurs often occur due to the redox reaction of sulfide ions and oxygen molecules. It is important to know the spectral refractive index of colloidal sulfurs for the discussion of the light scattering in the region where colloidal sulfurs are formed. We presented new methods to estimate the refractive index from the wave length of maximum absorbance (turbidity) of a nearly mono-dispersed colloidal solution. In these methods, the ripples in a first main maximum of the scattering efficiency,Q
sca
, were taken into consideration. By virtue of these methods, we obtained the spectral refractive index of colloidal sulfurs,m
s
(), at 20°C. The Cauchy's expression of it was given by
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相似文献
9.
The relationship between the scale of the spectral minimum of the first differences in temperature fluctuationsL and the local value of the Väisälä-Brunt frequencyN has been analysed using the results of more than 600 soundings made in various regions of the world's oceans. Allowing for the series of theoretical and experimental indications of the fact that the vertical scaleL at the boundary between the fine structure and microstructure in the ocean exists under the effect of processes of breaking of internal waves and hydrodynamic instability with the formation of turbulent patches, and using the energy relationships, the relationship for a solitary patch has been derived through the determining parameters. Based on two expressions forL, derived experimentally and using the energy estimations, the relationships for the averaged rate of absorption of the wave field energy by patches
and the coefficient of the density vertical diffusion
are derived, which do not contradict a series of independent estimations fromin situ measurements.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
10.
Masahiro Ueno 《Journal of Oceanography》1990,46(3):125-134
In each of six areas with various horizontal scale from 0.4 to 15.6 nautical miles, many surveys with vertical net hauls are made for sampling fish eggs and larvae. Though values ofC
A are widely spread in each area, the variances
2 and the meanm of catch numbers calculated from each survey follow approximately the relation from a Poisson mixture model (PMM).
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