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1.
Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation. 相似文献
2.
A study of marine breezes and their impact on the wave field around Mallorca Island was carried out by numerical simulations with the spectral wave model SWAN and three different wind fields: WRF – Weather Research and Forecasting model, HIRLAM – High Resolution Limited Area model and ECMWF – European Center for Medium-range Weather Forecasts. The main characteristics of the modelled breeze circulation and its effects on the wave field are analyzed. The modified wave field under breeze conditions and the correlations with their variability and daily short life time period are studied and discussed by analyzing the spectral balance. The results show that the accuracy of a wave forecast will depend on the quality of the wind field and its ability to simulate the sea breeze induced waves. The study period covers the summers of 2009 and 2010. In addition, to assess the performance of SWAN forced with two different winds the numerically obtained significant wave heights (Hs) are collocated against the ENVISAT-ESA's Environmental Satellite measurements (GLOBWAVE data) of Hs around the Mallorca Island. 相似文献
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渤海重现期波高的数值计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用RAMS大气模式给出的20年风场资料,利用SWAN近海波浪模式对渤海海域的波浪进行了20 a数值计算.通过与一般过程和大风过程的实测资料的对比后发现.波浪模拟值与实潮值符合地较好,SWAN模式适合渤海海域波浪的计算。通过分析发现.辽东湾常浪向为SSW。强浪向为SSW;渤海中部常浪向为S,强浪向为NE;渤海海峡常浪向为NNW,强浪向为NNW;莱州湾常浪向为S,强浪向为NNE;渤海湾常浪向为S.强浪向为NE。渤中偏东南海域(38°～39°N,119.5°～120.5°E)多年一遇有效波高最大.其中百年一遇有效波高最大值达到6.7m。 相似文献
4.
B. A. Kagan O. Alvarez E. V. Gorchakov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2008,44(6):781-786
The third generation of the SWAN wave model is modified by the incorporation of new resistance laws for hydrodynamically rough, incompletely rough (smoothly rough), and smooth underlying surfaces. A modified model is used to determine the functional dependences of wave parameters (such as the dimensionless energy of waves and the dimensionless spectral peak frequency) on a dimensionless fetch. The results of calculations are compared to the experimental data obtained in Lake George (northeastern Australia), which has a nearly constant depth and extended, nearly rectilinear segments of coast. The SWAN model is shown to depend weakly on hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom: distinctions arising from changes in hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom are smaller than the variances of experimental estimates. 相似文献
5.
This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient Cds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with Cds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area. 相似文献
6.
This paper describes the development of a wave prediction system for the west Iberian coast. The implemented wave prediction system is based on two state-of-the-art spectral wave models, WAM for the ocean area and SWAN for the nearshore. However, because of its extended geographical space the SWAN model will include some generation effects in the coarse SWAN simulations, complemented by wave transformation effects near the coast. The system was validated by means of extended hindcast runs in various regions belonging to the continental Portuguese coastal environment, which were compared with buoy data, focusing on the extreme energetic events and both direct comparisons and statistical results are presented. 相似文献
7.
Eugen Rusu 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(16):1763-1781
An evaluation of two state of the art phase averaged wave models for the transformation scale, SWAN and STWAVE, is carried out in the present work. The target area is the Obidos Bay located in the central part of the Portuguese continental nearshore. The wave input for the two models is provided by an offshore buoy. In order to compare the nearshore outputs of the wave models against in-situ measurements, a directional buoy and an ADCP, operating in intermediate water depth, are used. The wave parameters considered for comparisons are significant wave height, peak period and wave direction. Sensitivity analyses studies and evaluations in the spectral and geographical spaces concerning the results of the two models are also carried out in both intermediate and shallow water. The present study provides some information on the performances of the two wave models in different forcing conditions as well as on their sensitivity in relationship with various input parameters and some physical processes. STWAVE appears to be faster and more robust than SWAN, which on the other hand has more options and flexibility. In statistical terms the results are comparable. 相似文献
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10.
基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
11.
渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟 总被引：14，自引：1，他引：13
采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。 相似文献
12.
The paper presents an approach towards a medium-term (decades) modelling of water levels and currents in a shallow tidal sea by means of combined hydrodynamic and neural network models. The two-dimensional version of the hydrodynamic model Delft3D, forced with realistic water level and wind fields, is used to produce a two-year-database of water levels and currents in the study area. The linear principal component analysis (PCA) of the results is performed to reveal dominating spatial patterns in the analyzed dataset and to significantly reduce the dimensionality of the data. It is shown that only a few principal components (PCs) are necessary to reconstruct the data with high accuracy (over 95% of the original variance). Feed-forward neural networks are set up and trained to effectively simulate the leading PCs based on water level and wind speed and direction time series in a single, arbitrarily chosen point in the study area. Assuming that the spatial modes resulting from the PCA are ‘universally’ applicable to the data from time periods not modelled with Delft3D, the trained neural networks can be used to very effectively and reliably simulate temporal and spatial variability of water levels and currents in the study area. The approach is shown to be able to accurately reproduce statistical distribution of water levels and currents in various locations inside the study area and thus can be viewed as a reliable complementary tool e.g., for computationally expensive hydrodynamic modelling. Finally, a detailed analysis of the leading PCs is performed to estimate the role of tidal forcing and wind (including its seasonal and annual variability) in shaping the water level and current climate in the study area. 相似文献
13.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(3):237-256
Irregular convergence behaviour is frequently encountered when computations of wave spectra are performed by means of the third-generation wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore). Numerical accuracy is another key issue. The present paper proposes two techniques that improve the convergence and accuracy properties of SWAN in the prediction of stationary wave conditions in the nearshore zone. The first is an under-relaxation approach in which the extent of updates during the iteration process, which underlies a route to steady state, is made proportional to wave frequency. This method complies with the principle of decreasing time scales at higher frequencies, which is inherent to the evolution of wind waves. As a result, the improved SWAN model is free from numerical restrictions to spectral shape in the non-equilibrium range. The second proposed method is a new termination criterion associated with the rate of model convergence, by which the identification of the point of convergence is improved. The capabilities of these methods are demonstrated by simulations of idealized cases and a field application featuring fetch- and depth-limited wave growth. It is concluded that the proposed termination criterion improves numerical accuracy and that the action density limiter, as currently used in SWAN, has minimal negative influence on stationary model results. 相似文献
14.
This study investigates the effectiveness of a revised whitecapping source term in the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) that is local in frequency space, nonlinear with respect to the variance density and weakly dependent on the wave age. It is investigated whether this alternative whitecapping expression is able to correct the tendency towards underprediction of period measures that has been identified in the default SWAN model. This whitecapping expression is combined with an alternative wind input source term that is more accurate for young waves than the default expression. The shallow water source terms of bottom friction, depth-induced breaking and triad interaction are left unaltered. It is demonstrated that this alternative source term combination yields improved agreement with fetch- and depth-limited growth curves. Moreover, it is shown, by means of a field case over a shelf sea, that the investigated model corrects the erroneous overprediction of wind-sea energy displayed by the default model under combined swell-sea conditions. For a selection of field cases recorded at two shallow lakes, the investigated model generally improves the agreement with observed spectra and integral parameters. The improvement is most notable in the prediction of period measures. 相似文献
15.
Conventional spectral wave models, which are used to determine wave conditions in coastal regions, can account for all relevant processes of generation, dissipation and propagation, except diffraction. To accommodate diffraction in such models, a phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation is suggested. It is expressed in terms of the directional turning rate of the individual wave components in the two-dimensional wave spectrum. The approximation is based on the mild-slope equation for refraction–diffraction, omitting phase information. It does therefore not permit coherent wave fields in the computational domain (harbours with standing-wave patterns are excluded). The third-generation wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) was used for the numerical implementation based on a straightforward finite-difference scheme. Computational results in extreme diffraction-prone cases agree reasonably well with observations, analytical solutions and solutions of conventional refraction–diffraction models. It is shown that the agreement would improve further if singularities in the wave field (e.g., at the tips of breakwaters) could be properly accounted for. The implementation of this phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation in SWAN shows that diffraction of random, short-crested waves, based on the mild-slope equation can be combined with the processes of refraction, shoaling, generation, dissipation and wave–wave interactions in spectral wave models. 相似文献
16.
分析波高与周期的联合分布特征对于海洋平台设计、海洋工程建筑等有着重要的意义。基于SWAN模型模拟的波浪后报数据对渤海和黄海北部1999~2018年的波浪特征进行了统计分析。分别对20年的波高和周期数据进行了统计分析,得到了研究区域20年有效波高和波周期的季平均值和最大值的区域分布特征。然后以散布图的形式刻画了整个区域20年波高和周期的联合分布特征。为了更深入地研究波高和周期的联合分布规律,选择了两个研究点A1和A2,A1在渤海内部相对近岸,A2在黄海北部深海区。统计结果表明,在A1和A2,波高与周期的联合分布特征较为相似,均呈现斜三角形的分布特征,然而大波高大周期的波浪却呈现不同的分布特征。最后,利用20年的波浪后报数据,在A1和A2点构建了有效波高和谱峰周期的联合概率模型,并采用IFORM法得到了50年、100年和200年重现周期的环境等值线,为研究海域海上结构物的可靠性设计提供了参考。 相似文献
17.
本文以高分辨率后报风场资料为输入,采用SWAN波浪模式,模拟了渤海海域1985年至2004年共20年间的波浪场。通过有效波高数据的比较,可看出波浪数值结果与实测资料符合较好,可以用数值结果分析渤海海域的波浪特征。利用计算的年极值波要素,本文给出并分析了渤海海域不同重现期下的极值参数分布情况。 相似文献
18.
基于CCMP(Cross Calibrated Multi-platform)卫星遥感海面风场数据,通过将WAVEWATCH和SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore)模型嵌套的方法,数值模拟了珠江口附近海域的风浪场。将总计10个月的数值模拟的有效波高、波周期和波向分别与相应的观测值进行了定量比较。结果说明,有效波高的平均绝对误差为15.4cm,分散系数SI为0.240,相关系数为0.925;波周期的平均绝对误差为1.9s,分散系数SI为0.433,相关系数为0.636;波向的平均绝对误差为23.9°。计算的波高和波向与观测结果的变化趋势相吻合。由于第三代海浪模式本身的缺陷,导致所计算的波周期偏小。总体说来,本文所采用的数值模式能较好地模拟珠江口附近海域的风浪场。另外,还设计了6个算例以探讨采用不同的计算方法和风场对计算结果精度的影响。结果表明使用本文的数值方法和高精度的CCMP风场确实可以提高计算结果的精度。 相似文献
19.
利用Minolta CM-2002光谱光度计,对南黄海陆架136个短柱样20~25 cm段的沉积物进行了颜色反射率数据测量。描述了8个应用较广的光性参数在研究区的分布并进行聚类分区,给出了部分各区沉积物的颜色反射率数据。结合同一样品的粒度、化学元素、磁化率等资料的初步分析,结果表明,a*,a*/b*,反射率re555nm和re675nm的一阶导数对沉积物氧化还原的相对强度和物质来源相对敏感,地质意义较为明确,并可判明研究区的3种物质来源及方向,即长江口方向、现代黄河物质来源以及研究区东南方向的生物物质来源。 相似文献
20.
获取高分辨率的风场数据和气压场数据是精确模拟台风浪的基础,采用经验公式构建台风风场和气压场对海浪模式进行驱动,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以提供高精度的风场、气压场数据。本文基于中尺度大气模式WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting model)和第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore model),构建了南中国海地区大气—海浪实时双向耦合模式,针对超强台风"威马逊"进行数值模拟。将数值模拟结果与现场观测结果及卫星高度计观测结果进行对比验证,验证结果表明,本文建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式在对台风"威马逊"影响下的南中国海台风浪的模拟中展现出较高的模拟精度,揭示了台风风场分布和台风浪分布在空间上的"右偏性"不对称分布特征及其形成机制。基于WRF和SWAN建立的大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式能够准确模拟台风动力过程以及台风浪的时空分布特征,可以推广用于南中国海地区台风浪的模拟分析。 相似文献