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1.
《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(3):205-225
Satellite technology has yielded a large database of global ocean wave heights which may be used for engineering applications. However, the sampling protocol used by the satellite leads to some difficulties in making use of these data for practical applications. These difficulties and techniques to estimate extreme wave heights using satellite measurements are discussed. Significant wave heights for a 50-year return period are estimated using GEOSAT measurements for several regions around North America. Techniques described here may be used for estimation of wave heights associated with any specified return interval in regions where buoy data are not readily available. 相似文献
2.
推算波浪多年一遇波高的新方法 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
采用卫星遥感推算多年一遇波高的新方法，对中国近海多年一遇波高进行推算研究。运用卫星遥感散射计得到的风资料推算了整个渤海区域波浪多年一遇的波高分布。通过与有实测资料4个点推算的结果比较表明：卫星资料和实测计算的误差随着重现期的增大而减小，最大误差百年和50年一遇波高为20cm；而百年和50年一遇波高正是工程中最为关心的，说明运用卫星遥感散射计风资料推算渤海多年一遇波高可行且结果合理。本研究方法为进一步运用和完善卫星遥感资料推算中国近海多年一波高场提供了一条新途径。 相似文献
3.
In this study, future changes in regional extreme wave heights around the Korean Peninsula are projected by using the results of an atmosphere general circulation model and a third-generation wave model. The direct use of the model output at each grid point is not appropriate even though high resolution of 20 km is used for the models. Therefore, the model output is grouped into six regions around the Korean Peninsula. The grouping approach is reasonable in assessing climate change effects with alleviated model uncertainty. The extreme wave heights are simulated for two climate periods of 1979–2003 (present climate) and 2075–2099 (future climate). The model results are validated by comparing the simulated wave heights for the present climate with observed and hindcasted wave data. The extreme wave heights for the future climate are then projected for different seasons and in different regions. The 50-year return wave height in summer is projected to increase in most regions, especially in the high-latitude Yellow Sea and the East Sea, while the wave height in winter is projected to decrease in all the regions, especially in the East Sea. 相似文献
4.
《Marine Geodesy》2013,36(3-4):367-382
The verification phase of the Jason-1 satellite altimeter mission presents a unique opportunity for comparing near-simultaneous, independent satellite measurements. Here we examine simultaneous significant wave height measurements by the Jason-1 and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeters. These data are also compared with in situ measurements from deep-ocean buoys and with predicted wave heights from the Wave Watch III operational model. The rms difference between Jason and TOPEX wave heights is 28 cm, and this can be lowered by half through improved outlier editing and filtering of high-frequency noise. Noise is slightly larger in the Jason dataset, exceeding TOPEX by about 7 cm rms at frequencies above 0.05 Hz, which is the frequency at which the coherence between TOPEX and Jason measurements drops to zero. Jason wave heights are more prone to outliers, especially during periods of moderate to high backscatter. Buoy comparisons confirm previous reports that TOPEX wave heights are roughly 5% smaller than buoy measurements for waves between 2 and 5 m; Jason heights in general are 3% smaller than TOPEX. Spurious dips in the TOPEX density function for 3- and 6-m waves, a problem that has existed since the beginning of the mission, can be solved by waveform retracking. 相似文献
5.
在对南海石油平台所处的南海北部海域海底地形、平均海平面、风浪时空分布等进行分析基础上,利用南海石油平台水位计对Jason-2卫星高度计进行了测高绝对定标,定标结果为30.9 cm±7.8 cm,分析发现南海北部中尺度涡可能对定标结果产生影响;利用南海石油平台测波雷达对Jason-1高度计有效波高进行了精度检验,Jason-1高度计Ku波段和C波段有效波高测量的均方根误差分别为0.43 m和0.45 m。分析和检验结果表明,南海石油平台所处海洋环境条件、平台上装载的水位计和测波雷达均满足卫星雷达高度计定标与检验要求。南海石油平台定标场预期可用于中国海洋二号卫星和其他卫星高度计的定标与检验。 相似文献
6.
The verification phase of the Jason-1 satellite altimeter mission presents a unique opportunity for comparing near-simultaneous, independent satellite measurements. Here we examine simultaneous significant wave height measurements by the Jason-1 and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeters. These data are also compared with in situ measurements from deep-ocean buoys and with predicted wave heights from the Wave Watch III operational model. The rms difference between Jason and TOPEX wave heights is 28 cm, and this can be lowered by half through improved outlier editing and filtering of high-frequency noise. Noise is slightly larger in the Jason dataset, exceeding TOPEX by about 7 cm rms at frequencies above 0.05 Hz, which is the frequency at which the coherence between TOPEX and Jason measurements drops to zero. Jason wave heights are more prone to outliers, especially during periods of moderate to high backscatter. Buoy comparisons confirm previous reports that TOPEX wave heights are roughly 5% smaller than buoy measurements for waves between 2 and 5 m; Jason heights in general are 3% smaller than TOPEX. Spurious dips in the TOPEX density function for 3- and 6-m waves, a problem that has existed since the beginning of the mission, can be solved by waveform retracking. 相似文献
7.
Bayesian statistics offer a novel means of estimating return values of wave heights and hence of establishing design criteria for offshore structures. The Bayesian method has significant advantages over the classical method since it enables all types of uncertainty (physical, parameter, distribution) associated with the design wave prediction to be handled in a consistent manner in the same analysis.The basic principles of the Bayesian method for drawing inferences are outlined step-by-step. It is shown how Bayesian estimators of return values for wave heights are established by taking an expectation over all parameters and contending distributions. When the Bayesian procedure is applied to large data sets, such as wave data sets, computational difficulties could be encountered, making a “remedial” procedure necessary. However, the Bayesian procedure has been used successfully with wave data sets from the northern North Sea. Furthermore, the associated remedial procedure is such that the program can be made suitable for many existing computers, e.g. desk computers. 相似文献
8.
Joint analysis of wind wave characteristics derived from the Voluntary Observing Ship data (VOS) and satellite altimetry is presented as the first step of the synthesis of different data sources. Global distributions of significant wave heights and periods along with wind speed are constructed using various techniques and empirical parameterizations. Good qualitative and quantitative agreement of VOS and satellite altimetry is found especially for regions with high spatio-temporal density of observations. The problems and prospects of the further development of the study are discussed in the context of global wave climatology and marine safety. 相似文献
9.
Owing to the spatial averaging involved in satellite sensing, use of observations so collected is often restricted to offshore regions. This paper discusses a technique to obtain significant wave heights at a specified coastal site from their values gathered by a satellite at deeper offshore locations. The technique is based on the approach of Artificial Neural Network (ANN) of Radial Basis Function (RBF) and Feed-forward Back-propagation (FFBP) type. The satellite-sensed data of significant wave height; average wave period and the wind speed were given as input to the network in order to obtain significant wave heights at a coastal site situated along the west coast of India. Qualitative as well as quantitative comparison of the network output with target observations showed usefulness of the selected networks in such an application vis-à-vis simpler techniques like statistical regression. The basic FFBP network predicted the higher waves more correctly although such a network was less attractive from the point of overall accuracy. Unlike satellite observations collection of buoy data is costly and hence, it is generally resorted to fewer locations and for a smaller period of time. As shown in this study the network can be trained with samples of buoy data and can be further used for routine wave forecasting at coastal locations based on more permanent flow of satellite observations. 相似文献
10.
台风是影响中国黄东海的强天气现象，其引起的强风、巨浪和台风增水严重威胁着沿海地区人民的生命与财产安全。本文以海浪模式SWAN（Simulating Waves Nearshore）与区域海洋模式ROMS（Regional Ocean Modeling System）为基础，构建了中国黄东海海域在201509号台风“灿鸿”影响下的海浪-海洋耦合模式。通过浮标与Jason-2高度计有效波高数据验证了模式结果的准确性。进行了敏感性实验分析，对比耦合（ROMS+SWAN）与非耦合（SWAN）下以及使用不同地形数据（ETOPO1、ETOPO2、GEBCO）、不同物理参数化方案（风能输入、白冠耗散、底摩擦耗散）下的模拟结果差异。结果发现在射阳与前三岛浮标处，使用GEBCO地形数据（15弧秒间隔）下的模拟效果更好且稳定。在空间分布上，台风中心附近的浪流相互作用显著，在其前进方向右侧表现为耦合的有效波高值低于非耦合有效波高值，差值最高可达1米。选择不同风输入与耗散项方案时的模拟差异主要发生在最大波高处，选择不同的风能输入与白冠耗散项方案带来的差异接近0.4米，而底摩擦项方案选择不同带来的差异接近1米。因而在模拟实际的海况时，需要综合考虑这些因素带来的影响，才能达到SWAN海浪模型最好的海浪模拟效果。 相似文献
11.
Underwater ultrasonic acoustic transducers are frequently used in ocean wave measurements as they measure surface level using acoustic waves. However, their effectiveness can be severely affected in rough sea conditions, when bubbles generated by breaking waves interfere with their acoustic signals. When the seas are rough, one therefore often has to rely on a pressure transducer, which is generally used as a back-up for the acoustic wave gauge. A pressure transfer function is then used to obtain the surface wave information. Alternatively, the present study employed an artificial neural network to convert the pressure signal into significant wave height, significant wave period, maximum wave height, and spectral peakedness parameter using data obtained from various water depths. The results showed that, for water depths greater than 20 m, the wave parameters obtained from the artificial neural network were significantly closer to those obtained by the acoustic measurements than those obtained by using a linear pressure transfer function. Moreover, for a given water depth, the wave heights estimated by the network model from pressure data were not as good as those estimated by linear wave theory for large wave heights (above a 4 m significant wave height in this study). This can be improved if the training data set has more records with large wave heights. 相似文献
12.
重现期波高是港口海岸及海洋工程设计中不可回避的一个重要设计参数,尤其对深水海港、海上平台、海底油气管道、沿海核电站等重大涉海工程设计具有巨大的经济价值和深远的社会效益。但是,现有重现期波高推算缺乏统一的计算方法,导致计算结果相差悬殊。研究重现期波高的统一化计算方法,分析重现期波高计算中存在的各种不确定因素,提出减少这些不确定因素的新方法,建立误差小、应用方便、方法统一的重现期波高计算方法。基于澳大利亚悉尼站的长期连续观测波浪数据,研究发现:广义帕累托函数(generalized Pareto distribution III,GPD-III)和威布尔(Weibull)是重现期波高计算的最佳候选极值分布函数,新推导的函数形状参数计算公式较好提高重现期波高的计算精度,极值波高数据的分析方法和样本大小是影响重现期波高计算精确度的两个重要因素,短期波浪资料和年极值法可能高估重现期波高值。逐个风暴的极值波高数据分析法及最佳候选极值分布函数GPD-III和Weibull建议应用于涉海工程设计的重现期波高推算。 相似文献
13.
MASNUM海浪数值模式业务化预报与检验 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
介绍了MASNUM(Key Laboratory of Marine Science and Numerical Modeling)海浪数值预报系统,并利用全球和西北太平洋的Jason-1卫星数据和NDBC浮标数据中的海浪波高观测,对该预报系统进行了自2007年8月1日-2007年12月31日5个月的24,48和72 h预报结果的比较检验.模式校验结果表明,有效波高预报与观测的绝均差在0.5 m左右,从夏季到冬季,预报精度不断提高,与风场冬季预报精度较高吻合. 相似文献
14.
1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。 相似文献
15.
《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(3-4):114-136
Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations. 相似文献
16.
Quantifying uncertainty in extreme values of design parameters with resampling techniques 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this paper, a methodology for the selection of statistical models for describing the extreme wave heights on the basis of resampling techniques is presented. Two such techniques are evaluated: the jackknife and the bootstrap. The methods are applied to two high-quality datasets of wave measurements in the Mediterranean and one from the East Coast of the USA. The robustness of the estimates of the extreme values of wave heights at return periods important for coastal engineering design is explored further. In particular, we demonstrate how an ensemble error norm can be used to select the most appropriate extreme probability model from a choice of cumulative distribution functions (CDFs). This error norm is based on the mean error norm of the optimised CDF for each resampled (replicate) data series. The resampling approach is also used to present confidence intervals of the CDF parameters. We provide a brief discussion of the sensitivity of these parameters and the suitability of each model in terms of uncertainty with resampling techniques. The advantages of resampling are outlined, and the superiority of the bootstrap over the jackknife in quantifying the uncertainty of extreme quantiles is demonstrated for these records. 相似文献
17.
18.
Accurately estimating the mean and extreme wave statistics and better understanding their directional and seasonal variations are of great importance in the planning and designing of ocean and coastal engineering works. Due to the lack of long-term wave measurement data, the analysis of extreme waves is often based on the numerical wave hind-casting results. In this study, the wave climate in the East China Seas (including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea) for the past 35 years (1979–2013) is hind-casted using a third generation wave model – WAMC4 (Cycle 4 version of WAM model). Two sets of reanalysis wind data from NCEP (National Centers for Environmental Prediction, USA) and ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) are used to drive the wave model to generate the long-term wave climate. The hind-casted waves are then analysed to study the mean and extreme wave statistics in the study area. The results show that the mean wave heights decrease from south to north and from sea to land in general. The extreme wave heights with return periods of 50 and 100 years in the summer and autumn seasons are significantly higher than those in the other two seasons, mainly due to the effect of typhoon events. The mean wave heights in the winter season have the highest values, mainly due to the effect of winter monsoon winds. The comparison of extreme wave statistics from both wind fields with the field measurements at several nearshore wave observation stations shows that the extreme waves generated by the ECMWF winds are better than those generated by the NCEP winds. The comparison also shows the extreme waves in deep waters are better reproduced than those in shallow waters, which is partly attributed to the limitations of the wave model used. The results presented in this paper provide useful insight into the wave climate in the area of the East China Seas, as well as the effect of wind data resolution on the simulation of long-term waves. 相似文献
19.
The paper compares the wave hindcast in the Western Mediterranean sea using the reanalysis wind fields from HIPOCAS and ERA-40 from ECMWF for November 2001. The study has concentrated on the Mediterranean coast of Spain where there are known difficulties with the wind and wave modelling. Two winter storms have been compared. The main differences between the significant wave heights using the ERA-40 reanalysis (ECMWF) and HIPOCAS reanalysis winds were observed to increase when moving southwards in the geographical domain at the offshore locations. Systematic negative biases of Hs were obtained with the ERA-40 data at all the coastal locations analyzed, whereas positive biases are typical for the HIPOCAS reanalysis. For offshore and coastal locations when using the ERA-40 data the Hs biases increased moving to South, while this pattern was not so clear for the HIPOCAS data. The inconsistencies in the comparisons of modelled waves against measurements seem to be associated with the quality of the wind fields. 相似文献
20.
阐述以实测或拟合海浪谱为靶谱，用等能量分割法作波面数值模拟，从而利用模拟波面统计分析波高（Ｈ）－周期（Ｔ）联合分布。对波候的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布、长时段海浪连续记录的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布以及风浪、涌浪和混合浪的Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布进行了讨论。结果表明，只要已知特征波高和周期，就可反演出模拟波面，进而估测Ｈ－Ｔ联合分布情况，这对了解与各种特征波高对应的周期问题及在海洋工程应用上有一定的参考意义。 相似文献