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1.
本文通过物理模型试验研究了波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流的分布特征以及阻力特性，分析了典型波浪工况下无潮流、正向潮流和反向潮流分别作用下平均流速、摩阻流速、阻力系数的沿礁变化规律。结果表明：无潮流时礁前斜坡及外礁坪上存在海底回流且在礁缘附近回流最强，在礁坪上冠层附近平均流表现为向岸流，且该流沿礁向海岸方向持续增大。相较于无潮流时，正向潮流作用下冠层内外均为向岸流，在礁坪上冠层内外的向岸流显著增大；反向潮流作用下冠层内外均为离岸流且在礁缘处达到最大，该离岸流在礁坪上逐渐减小然后趋于稳定。无潮流时礁坪上摩阻流速呈小幅波动；相较于无潮流时，正向潮流、反向潮流影响下礁坪上摩阻流速显著增大，其中正向潮流影响下增幅更大；无潮流时礁坪上水力粗糙度沿礁减小，正向潮流和反向潮流影响下水力粗糙度普遍有幅度不等的增加。三种工况下礁坪上的阻力系数均沿礁整体呈下降趋势，相较于无潮流时，正向潮流和反向潮流影响下礁坪上的阻力系数显著增大，且正向潮流作用时增幅更大。 相似文献
2.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
3.
通过在波浪水槽中采用概化的珊瑚岸礁物理模型来研究珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪增水的变化规律,包括平均自由表面的沿礁变化以及礁坪上的最大增水值。物理模型实验分别测试了不同礁面糙率密度影响下的一系列不规则波工况。结果分析表明:礁面粗糙时礁坪上的透射波高和最大增水值均相对于礁面光滑时减小;通过两个无量纲参数分析表明光滑礁面时,礁坪上最大增水随波要素的变化规律与此前研究数据基本吻合,前人研究推荐的无量纲数■和■需考虑礁面粗糙度的影响;礁面粗糙程度不同时,礁坪上的透射波高随礁面糙率密度的增大而减小,礁坪上的最大波浪增水则随之增大;最后通过沿水深积分对波浪求平均的水平一维动量方程解释了本实验的观测现象。 相似文献
4.
通过在波浪水槽中采用概化的珊瑚岸礁物理模型来研究珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪增水的变化规律,包括平均自由表面的沿礁变化以及礁坪上的最大增水值。物理模型实验分别测试了不同礁面糙率密度影响下的一系列不规则波工况。结果分析表明:礁面粗糙时礁坪上的透射波高和最大增水值均相对于礁面光滑时减小;通过两个无量纲参数分析表明光滑礁面时,礁坪上最大增水随波要素的变化规律与此前研究数据基本吻合,前人研究推荐的无量纲数■和■需考虑礁面粗糙度的影响;礁面粗糙程度不同时,礁坪上的透射波高随礁面糙率密度的增大而减小,礁坪上的最大波浪增水则随之增大;最后通过沿水深积分对波浪求平均的水平一维动量方程解释了本实验的观测现象。 相似文献
5.
通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型实验, 研究珊瑚礁礁坪宽度变化对珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪传播变形及礁坪上波浪增水的影响。物理实验采用理想化的珊瑚礁模型, 测试了3种礁坪宽度下的一系列不规则波工况。实验结果分析表明: 波浪沿礁传播过程中, 短波持续衰减; 低频长波波高沿礁逐渐增大, 直到海岸线附近达到最大; 随着礁坪宽度的增加, 海岸线附近的短波波高呈下降趋势, 低频长波波高的变化规律不显著; 礁坪上的波浪增水受礁坪宽度变化的影响不明显; 通过对海岸线附近的波浪进行频谱分析发现, 礁坪上低频长波的运动存在着一阶共振模式, 且共振放大效应强度受礁坪水深、入射波峰周期和礁坪宽度共同影响。 相似文献
6.
西沙群岛灰砂岛的沉积特征和发育规律 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
西沙群岛灰砂岛是晚玉木冰后期在各环礁的宽广礁坪上堆积的砂岛,堆积物质为礁碎屑和生物砂、砾.它的发育与新构造运动、季风风浪、海平面变化、礁坪的发育和环礁礁湖的变迁等有密切的关系.对它的研究丰富了生物礁的内容,为生物礁经济资源的开发提供有益的资料,并为礁相油气田的研究提供将今论古的依据. 相似文献
7.
1示踪砂在泥沙学及其它技术领域中的作用示踪砂在泥沙学中的应用许多人虽然拥护和支持，但遗憾的是示踪砂技术在泥沙学中并不占主导地位。泥沙学者和水文学者应当熟悉它的可行性和局限性，应当进行符合情理的充分的比较，对每种方法进行科学和明确的对比。1．1示院砍在泥沙争中的应用价值1．1．1示踪砂作为野外勘测方法的应用示踪砂与其它野外勘测方法比较在观测范围和观测时间两个方面有其显著的特点，从河床推移质的观测来看，示踪砂技术处于两个极端之间。一方面是从时间和空间上看，示踪砂的作用具有～定的局限性，虽然重复使用可扩大这… 相似文献
8.
根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。 相似文献
9.
本文通过波浪水槽试验研究了大糙率礁面影响下波浪沿礁的演化和爬高规律，测试了一系列规则波工况并对比了光滑礁面和粗糙礁面的情况。结果分析表明：二次谐波是礁坪上透射波的重要组成成分，粗糙礁面使主频波和二次谐波减小，对更高阶波的影响不显著；相对礁坪水深是描述礁坪上波浪透射的关键参数，礁面从光滑变为粗糙时海岸附近透射系数显著减小，能量衰减系数平均增大了8%，但礁前反射系数与礁面糙率之间无明显关系；礁后岸滩爬高随着透射波高的增大而增长，最后拟合了本文试验条件下珊瑚礁大糙率礁面预测规则波爬高的关系式。 相似文献
10.
菲律宾蛤仔的生物扰动对沉积物颗粒垂直分布的影响 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
以化学稳定的荧光砂作为示踪颗粒 ,研究底栖双壳类软体动物菲律宾蛤仔对沉积物的扰动 ,探讨滤食性贝类通过生物扰动作用在水层—底栖耦合过程中的作用。实验表明 ,在整个实验周期 ( 15天 )内 ,表层示踪砂有 2 8.2 %悬浮进入水体 ,3 6.1%由表层垂直向下迁移 ,垂直迁移率为 1.65× 10 -5·g-1·cm-2 ·d-1;沉积物 8cm深处示踪砂分别有 2 7.0 %向上和12 .6%向下迁移 ,迁移率分别为 1.5 2× 10 -5·g-1·cm-2 ·d-1和 0 .61× 10 -5·g-1·cm-2 ·d-1。个体大小和摄食状态均对蛤仔的扰动作用有影响 :个体增大 ,表层示踪砂悬浮进入水体的量增加 ,以单位湿重表示的迁移率降低 ,但均无显著性差异 ;投饵组大于无饵组 ,除 8cm深处小蛤的垂直上移率外 ,其它无显著性差异。 相似文献
11.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(4):353-387
Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves.This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 17–55] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes—reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef. 相似文献
12.
Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78. 相似文献
13.
The impact of wave loads and pore-water pressure generation on initiation of sediment transport 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
Edward C. Clukey Fred H. Kulhawy Philip L. -F. Liu George B. Tate 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(3):177-183
The build-up of pore-water pressure by waves can lead to sediment liquefaction and subsequent transport by traction currents. This process was investigated by measuring pore-water pressures both in a field experiment and laboratory wave tank tests. Liquefaction was observed in the wave tank tests. The results suggest that sand is less susceptible than silts to wave-induced liquefaction because of the tendency to partially dissipate pore-water pressures. However, previous studies have determined that pore-water pressures must approach liquefaction before current velocities necessary to initiate transport are reduced. Once liquefaction has occurred more sediment can be transported. 相似文献
14.
薛春汀 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2002,22(2):121-125
珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。 相似文献
15.
Human activities in the watersheds surrounding Maunalua Bay, Oahu, Hawaii, have lead to the degradation of coastal coral reefs affecting populations of marine organisms of ecological, economic and cultural value. Urbanization, stream channelization, breaching of a peninsula, seawalls, and dredging on the east side of the bay have resulted in increased volumes and residence time of polluted runoff waters, eutrophication, trapping of terrigenous sediments, and the formation of a permanent nepheloid layer. The ecosystem collapse on the east side of the bay and the prevailing westward longshore current have resulted in the collapse of the coral and coralline algae population on the west side of the bay. In turn this has lead to a decrease in carbonate sediment production through bio-erosion as well as a disintegration of the dead coral and coralline algae, leading to sediment starvation and increased wave breaking on the coast and thus increased coastal erosion. The field data and resulting coral reef ecohydrology model presented in this paper demonstrate and quantify the importance of biophysical processes leading to coral reef degradation as the result of urbanization. Coral restoration in Maunalua Bay will require an integrated ecosystem approach. 相似文献
16.
A Novel Control Algorithm for Interaction Between Surface Waves and A Permeable Floating Structure 
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下载免费PDF全文 An analytical solution is undertaken to describe the wave-induced flow field and the surge motion of a permeable platform structure with fuzzy controllers in an oceanic environment. In the design procedure of the controller, a parallel distributed compensation (PDC) scheme is utilized to construct a global fuzzy logic controller by blending all local state feedback controllers. A stability analysis is carried out for a real structure system by using Lyapunov method. The corresponding boundary value problems are then incorporated into scattering and radiation problems. They are analytically solved, based on separation of variables, to obtain series solutions in terms of the harmonic incident wave motion and surge motion. The dependence of the wave-induced flow field and its resonant frequency on wave characteristics and structure properties including platform width, thickness and mass has been thus drawn with a parametric approach. From which mathematical models are applied for the wave-induced displacement of the surge motion. A nonlinearly inverted pendulum system is employed to demonstrate that the controller tuned by swarm intelligence method can not only stabilize the nonlinear system, but has the robustness against external disturbance. 相似文献
17.
The vertically-integrated effect of interaction between waves and wave-induced currents on wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal was investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction- diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269–284.]. The numerical simulations were performed using two numerical wave-current model systems: one, a combination of the wave model SWAN and the current model SHORECIRC, and the other, a combination of the wave model REF/DIF and the same current model. A time-dependent, phase-resolving wave and current model, FUNWAVE, was also utilized to simulate the experiment. In the simulations, the developed wave-induced currents defocused waves behind the shoal and brought on a wave shadow zone that showed relatively low wave height distributions. For the breaking case of monochromatic waves, the wave heights computed using FUNWAVE showed good agreement with the measurements and the resulting wave-induced currents showed a jet-like velocity distribution in transverse direction. And the computed results of the two model combinations agreed better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction. However, it was found that for the case in which transverse interference pattern caused by refracted waves was strong, REF/DIF-SHORECIRC did not correctly evaluate radiation stresses, the gradients of which generate wave-induced currents. SWAN-SHORECIRC, which cannot deal with the interference patterns, predicted a jet-like wave-induced current. For breaking random wave cases, the computed results of the two model combinations and FUNWAVE agreed well with the measurements. The agreements indicate that it is necessary to take into account the effect of wave-induced current on wave refraction when wave breaking occurs over a submerged shoal. 相似文献
18.
本文根据实地考察并结合有关资料,对夏威夷群岛地貌的一些特点进行探讨。首先,分析了这些岛群的大地地貌特征;其次,介绍了灾害性地质地貌现象的控制和利用;最后,对夏威夷群岛的地貌演变趋势进行了探讨。这对大地地貌的研究以及对我国海岛开发将有所借鉴。 相似文献
19.
Several independent sets of field data have been analyzed in order to estimate the frequency of sediment movement on the continental shelf off Washington over an annual period and to identify the major components of the bottom velocity field causing this motion. Sediment motions resulting from: (1) bottom currents caused by surface wind stress and tides, and (2) wave-induced oscillatory bottom currents have been investigated. Analysis of a 260-day current record from 3 m off the seabed at 80 m depth on the continental shelf and a 205-day open-ocean wave record collected on Cobb Seamount 465 km west of the Washington coast suggest that the threshold of sediment motion was exceeded for approximately 22 days per year as a result of mean currents (20 min time averaged) and approximately 53 days per year from wave-induced oscillatory currents. Substantial variations can be expected from year to year, so these values represent order of magnitude estimates. 相似文献