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1.
This paper discusses wave grouping of wind waves observed at Lake Biwa from the physical viewpoint of wave modulational instability. Amplitude modulation periods obtained from the smoothed instantaneous wave energy history (SIWEH) of the observed data proposed by Funke and Mansard are compared with the values predicted by the modulational instability theory using the Zakharov equation for a finite constant water depth derived by Stiassnie and Shemer. The modulation period normalized by the typical wave period corresponds to the length of total run. It is shown that the amplitude modulation periods of the observed data agree satisfactorily with the predicted values. Thus, it is concluded that the modulational instability is a hydrodynamical cause of grouping of high waves. 相似文献
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The statistical properties of long-crested nonlinear wave time series measured in an offshore basin have been analyzed in different aspects such as the distributions of surface elevation, wave crest, wave trough, and wave period. Comparison with linear, second-order and third-order theoretical models indicates that although bound wave effects also contribute to the deviation from a Gaussian process, it is the modulational instability that primarily determines the discrepancy in the evolution process in the presence of strong nonlinearity. Interestingly enough, wave crest is more sensitive to the quasi-resonant four-wave interaction effect than wave trough and the scaled maximal wave crest presents a linear regression model with the coefficient of kurtosis. Meanwhile, the estimation of the observed statistical properties is reconstructed on the basis of an ensemble of 100 wave series simulated by the NLS-type equations and compared favourably with the experimental results in most cases. Moreover, with the increased third-order nonlinear effect the difference between NLS and Dysthe simulations is enlarged and mainly reflected on the distribution of wave crest. 相似文献
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A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schrdinger (NLS) equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is performed by changing sideband conditions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed. 相似文献
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《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(3-4):137-146
A theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A semi-analytical solution was derived by applying an eigenfunction expansion method. The solution is applied to analyze the effect of wave frequencies and wave steepness on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The main attention is paid to the wave profile, the wave energy spectrum, and the changes of wave profile and energy spectrum due to the interaction of wave components in a wave train. The results show that for waves of low steepness the nonlinear wave effects and effects associated with the interaction of water waves in a wave train are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave train are becoming significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position. The evolution of wave components has substantial effects on the wave spectrum. A train of initially very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short period of time. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical approaches. The free-surface elevation recorded by a system of wave gauges was compared with the results provided by the semi-analytical solution. Theoretical results are in a fairly good agreement with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed often even for relatively steep waves. 相似文献
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An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated. 相似文献
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A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components. 相似文献
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南海文昌地区内波振幅反演研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
The field experiment is conducted from April 16,2005 to July 20,2005 at Wenchang area east of Hainan Island(19°35'N,112°E) of China.Internal wave packets are observed frequently with thermistor chains during the experiment.Meanwhile,internal waves are also detected from a synthetic aperture radar(SAR) image on June 19,2005 and several other moderate-resolution imaging spectroradiometer(MODIS) images near a mooring position.The distance between the positive and negative peaks induced by the internal wave can be obtained from satellite images.Combined with remote sensing images and in situ data,a new method to inverse the amplitude of the internal wave is proposed based on a corrected nonlinear Schr?dinger(NLS) equation.Two relationships are given between the peak-to-peak distance and the characteristic wavelength of the internal wave for different nonlinear and dispersion coefficients.Based on the satellite images,the amplitude inversion of the internal waves are carried out with the NLS equation as well as the Kd V equation.The calculated amplitudes of the NLS equation are close to the observation amplitude which promise the NLS equation a reliable method. 相似文献
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为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波特性以及对建筑物的作用,通过物理模型实验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数以及马蹄波对圆柱体的作用。实验中通过对浪高仪采集的波面升高时间历程曲线进行分析得出了不同水深情况下马蹄波的垂向几何特征,并通过快速傅里叶变换得出了马蹄波波幅谱的特征,研究了马蹄波各组成波波幅沿空间的变化从而得出了圆柱存在对马蹄波演化的影响,同时给出马蹄波绕射形成的波面分布和不同频率谐波在圆柱周围的分布,讨论了马蹄波不同于Stokes波对圆柱作用的特征。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大,水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波。圆柱体的存在干扰了马蹄波不稳定的增长,使其在接近圆柱时呈下降趋势,导致不稳定幅值最大值的位置提前并且出现在偏离圆柱迎浪点的侧表面,从而使圆柱受到侧向力的作用。 相似文献
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Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22～0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration. 相似文献
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The energy characteristics in the evolution of the wave train are investigated to understand the inherent cause of the freak wave generation. The Morlet wavelet spectrum method is employed to analyze the numerical, laboratory and field evolution data of this generation process. Their energy distributions and variations are discussed with consideration of corresponding surface elevations. Through comparing the energy characteristics of three cases, it is shown that the freak wave generation depends not only on the continuous transfer of wave train energy to a certain region where finally the maximum energy occurs, but also on the distinct shift of the converged energy to high-frequency components in a very short time. And the typical energy characteristics of freak waves are also given. 相似文献
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The basic features of higher harmonic waves were originally presented by Stokes in 1847 who showed that a 2nd-order regular wave would attain a higher, sharper crest and a flatter trough than the basic linear one. In this paper, these characteristics are investigated for an irregular wave train. This was done to make it possible to reproduce in a laboratory flume a wave train which has the correct profile and rms according to 2nd-order theory. The 2nd-order wave heights and the overall horizontal asymmetries of the wave train were calculated for a 1st-order PM and a Jonswap spectrum. The theoretical predictions show that the traditional wave generation in a laboratory flume which is based on linear theory produces free 2nd-order waves in addition to the bound 2nd-order waves described by Stokes. These free, parasitic waves incorrectly distort the shape of the waves and produce a varying rms as a function of distance from the wave paddle. In the 2nd-order theory presented in this paper, these free (parasitic) waves are calculated for the entire spectrum. Knowing these, they can be eliminated by compensating for them by using a 2nd-order control signal on the wave paddle. This is verified by a series of model tests which show that realistic wave profiles can be generated only by means of 2nd-order control signals. The theory and corresponding paddle control are presented for any type of translating, rotating or combined wave generator. 相似文献
13.
This paper provides a practical method by which the drag force on a vegetation field beneath nonlinear random waves can be estimated. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula together with an empirical drag coefficient given by Mendez et al. (Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., 1999. Hydrodynamics induced by wind waves in a vegetation field. J. Geophys. Res. 104 (C8), 18383–18396). Effects of nonlinear waves are included by using Stokes second order wave theory where the basic harmonic motion is assumed to be a stationary Gaussian narrow–band random process. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
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沿岸流非线性不稳定特征数值研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
当不稳定剪切波的波幅达到有限幅值之后,需要用非线性不稳定模型来分析沿岸流不稳定运动特征。本文通过建立并验证沿岸流非线性不稳定数学模型,在讨论该模型参数对沿岸流不稳定影响的基础上,率定实验中的模型参数并利用该数学模型模拟了实验中沿岸流不稳定的发展过程及其特征,主要结论有:（1）底摩擦系数越小,侧混系数越小,不稳定发生的时间越早,不稳定的波动幅值越大;（2）沿岸流非线性不稳定演化可能出现的5个阶段（线性阶段、倍周期阶段、大周期阶段、波群阶段以及不规则阶段）,实验中出现的沿岸流通常处于线性阶段或非线性倍周期阶段,倍周期阶段的涡旋是由线性阶段的涡旋发生追赶、配对直至合并产生的。涡旋配对以碰撞的形式发生,大部分能量转移至追踪波,然后以较慢的涡旋速度沿岸传播。 相似文献
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The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method. 相似文献
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畸形波传播速度实验和数值模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
畸形波的传播速度是其最重要的特征参数之一。研究畸形波的传播速度有助于深入和全面了解畸形波的生成机理及其演化过程,另外还可以用于畸形波的预报。针对现有关于畸形波传播速度计算方法(高阶Stokes波理论近似估算,Hilbert变换和两固定点的距离除以畸形波的波峰经过两点所用时间)的不准确性和局限性,使用32个测点描述畸形波波峰沿波浪水槽的运动轨迹,再用回归分析法估算波峰运动轨迹与时间的相关关系,从而计算出畸形波的传播速度。基于288组物理模拟畸形波和364组数值模拟畸形波传播速度的计算结果,使用回归分析方法得出了畸形波传播速度的半经验半理论计算公式,同时还分析了畸形波传播速度的强非线性特征。 相似文献
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By using the theories on Stokes multicolored water waves and taking the two- layer ocean as a basic model of stratified ocean, the paper analyzes the problems related to the effects of the nonlinear water wave on offshore structures. A mathematical expression is presented to describe second order wave radiation conditions. Using integral principle, the analytical integral solutions are given to evaluate second order scattered wave loads on general vertical circular cylinders in the two-layer ocean, and the special recurrence formulas for infinite integrals over free and stratified surfaces are derived. 相似文献
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基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应. 相似文献
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Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate. 相似文献