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1.
Hilbert Transform Applied to Separation of Waves   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
SUN  Hequan 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(2):239-248
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improvement of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient.The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phasedifference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda‘s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   

2.
1 .IntroductionTomeasurethereflectionofincidentwavesproducedbyaphysicalmodelinawaveflumeisacommonproblemwithphysicaltestsofwaveactiononcoastalstructures .Wavesgeneratedbythewave makerpropagateforwardinthewaveflumeandarereflectedbythephysicalmodel,andthe…  相似文献   

3.
This work presents a frequency-domain method for estimating incident and reflected waves when normally incident waves’ propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flume is considered. Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated using wave heights measured at two fixed wave gauges with a distance. The present model demonstrates a high capacity of estimating reflection and shoaling coefficients from synthetic wave-amplitude data. Sensitivity tests for the present model due to measurement errors of wave amplitudes and distance of two probes can more accurately predict the reflection coefficients. The measurement error of wave amplitude affects more significantly than measurement error of distance of two probes on calculating reflection coefficient of waves over a sloping bed.  相似文献   

4.
This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.  相似文献   

5.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(3):167-176
An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed [Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves. Coastal Eng., 24, 205–215.] is modified to account for normally incident linear waves propagating over a bed with arbitrary 2D bathymetry. Linear shoaling is used to determine the amplitude and phase change between two measurement positions; thereafter the existing technique can be applied. Comparisons between the existing and modified methods are made using numerically simulated data. Errors in the reflection coefficient are found to be small for large reflection coefficients, but may become large if reflection is low. However, if an accurate assessment of the amplitude of the incident and reflected wave trains is required, the bathymetry must be accounted for in order to avoid significant errors (up to 90% for cases considered).  相似文献   

6.
D. S. Jeng   《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(13):1711-1724
A third-order perturbation approximation for the partial reflection from a vertical wall is presented in this paper. The wave parameters are expressed in terms of the amplitude of incident waves. The reflection coefficient is defined as the ratio of the height of reflected waves to incident waves. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influences of reflected coefficient on the wave profile and wave frequency bifurcation. For example, the critical angle of wave frequency bifurcation with partial reflection is about 7.5 degrees, not 21 degrees as reported previously for fully reflection.  相似文献   

7.
This paper presents a transfer function method (TFM) which can separate a regular wave field into incident and reflected waves based on the linear wave theory. The TFM uses specific transfer functions and corresponding convolution integrals to separate time series data measured in a combined partial standing wave system into incident and reflected waves. After this separation, estimation of the reflection coefficient becomes very easy. All manipulations have been performed in time domain. Furthermore, this method does not involve the calculation of wave heights and/or phase differences. The present method is demonstrated through numerical sample and physical model experiments carried out in a wave flume. Compared with other methods, the TFM gives much better estimates of the incident wave heights for physical model experiments in this study.  相似文献   

8.
Some researches have been made in this aspect.In the method by Walton Jr.(1992),incidentwaves are supposed to be the overlapping result of M component waves with different frequencies whichmay take different directions,the direction of incident waves should be available in advance,but in fact thedirection of incident waves is not available.In our study,incident waves are supposed to be composed ofM overlapping component waves with different frequencies,and different frequencies have different direc-tions.Based on the irregular wave reflection theory,the calculation formulas of wave direction,complexamplitude of incident waves,and complex amplitude of reflected waves in surface which are composed ofcomponent waves are derived by means of discrete Fourier transform.Then,the frequency spectra of inci-dent waves and reflected waves and the reflection coefficient of waves with corresponding frequencies areobtained.Verification of the method and the calculation results from in-situ measured data indicate thatt  相似文献   

9.
The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05~0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable.  相似文献   

10.
A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient.  相似文献   

11.
波浪反射系数谱的特征分析   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:2  
应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.  相似文献   

12.
In the nearshore,the wave field contains reflected and incident waves in which there iscorrelation between their phases due to the effect of reflection by some obstacles.Based on the extendedeigenvector method(EEV)derived by Guan et al.,a modified method(MEEV)is proposed as a generaland practical approach to estimating directional spectra for the co-existent field of incident and reflectedwaves and a formula is given for direct calculation of the reflection coefficient.The results of numericalsimulations show that MEEV is superior to EEV in resolution power,and the computed reflectioncoefficient agrees well with the real value within a certain range of incident angle.  相似文献   

13.
Wave characteristics past a flexible fishnet   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The scattering of surface waves by a flexible fishnet is studied analytically. The fishnet is modelled as a porous flexible barrier displaced solely by hydrodynamic force like a catenary. The objective is to investigate how a flexible permeable barrier affects the passing waves in the way they are transmitted and reflected, as observed by the fact that the water inside a fishfarm surrounded by fishnets is significantly calmer than that outside. The boundary value problems are solved by defining the reflection coefficient in terms of velocity potential and then the full solutions are obtained by suitable application of the eigenfunction expansion method and the least squares approximation method. The variations of the reflection coefficient, hydrodynamic pressure, barrier deformation and surface wave elevation are determined with respect to the barrier length, porosity and stiffness. It is observed that as the fishnet gets more flexible, its deformation increases and the reflection coefficient decreases, whereas as the fishnet gets more porous, more water can pass through it and thus the reflection coefficient, barrier deformation and the hydrodynamic force are reduced. The flexibility of the barrier behaves like its porosity by allowing more wave energy to act on it through its deformation and hence reduce the reflection and hydrodynamic force of the incident waves acting on the barrier.  相似文献   

14.
Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method.  相似文献   

15.
This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity.  相似文献   

16.
The hydrodynamic efficiencies of caisson-type vertical porous seawalls used for protecting coastal areas were calculated in this study. Physical models were developed to compare the wave reflection from vertical plane, semi-porous, and porous seawalls caused by both regular and random waves. Tests were carried out for a wide range of wave heights, wave periods, and different water depths (d=0.165, 0.270 and 0.375 m). The performance regarding the reflected waves from porous and semi-porous seawalls showed improvement when compared with those from the plane seawall. The reflection coefficients of the porous and semi-porous seawalls were calculated as 0.6 and 0.75, respectively, while the coefficient for the fully reflecting plane vertical wall was significantly higher (0.9). It was also observed that the reflection coefficient decreases with increase in wave steepness and relative water depth. In addition, the reduction in the reflection coefficient of porous and semi-porous seawalls, as compared to that of a plane seawall, was observed for both regular and random waves. New equations were also proposed to calculate the reflection coefficient of different types of seawalls with the aid of laboratory experiments. By verifying the developed equations using some other experimental data, it was validated that the equations could be used for practical situations. The results of the present study can be applied to optimize the design of vertical seawalls and for coastal protecting schemes.  相似文献   

17.
1 .IntroductionWavereflectionfromstructuresisanimportantfactorforthedesignofthestructures .Therehavebeenmanyresearchesonwavereflectionwithregularwavesandmonochromaticirregularwaves .Miche( 1 951 )proposedanon dimensionalMichenumberMfornormallyincidentirregularwavesconsideringwavebreakingbecauseofthedeepeningofwavesteepnessontheslopeofbreakwaters .ThereflectioncoefficientisproportionaltoM ,i.e .,Kr ∝M =4g( 2π) 5/ 2tan5/ 2 α(Hsf2p) ( 1 )wheregisthegravitationalacceleration ,Hsthesignifican…  相似文献   

18.
Application of wavelet transform analysis to landslide generated waves   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
The aim of this paper is to illustrate the results of a preliminary study on aerial landslide-generated waves, which has been mainly intended to establish a method for analyzing water surface records. Some simple physical experiments, reproducing the Scott Russell's wave generator, were carried out in a small two-dimensional wave flume; the Wavelet Transform (WT) is applied to analyze wave measurements and it is shown that useful information can be obtained by means of this technique. The celerity of impulsively generated waves, reflection by an overflow structure and seiching phenomena of the flume are studied. A discussion of the results along with some remarks about ongoing research is also given.  相似文献   

19.
In this paper, the modified Bayesian method for the analysis of directional wave spectra and reflection coefficients is verified by numerical and physical simulation of waves. The results show that the method can basically separate the incident and reflected directional spectra. In addition, the effect of the type of wave gage arrays, the number of measured wave properties, and the distance between the wave gage array and the reflection line on the resolution of the method are investigated. Some suggestions are proposed for practical application.  相似文献   

20.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(2):141-151
An analytical model has been developed that predicts the reflection of irregular waves normally incident upon a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. To examine the predictability of the developed model, laboratory experiments have been conducted for the reflection of irregular waves of various significant wave heights and periods impinging upon breakwaters having various wave chamber widths. For frequency-averaged reflection coefficients, though the overall agreement is fairly good between measurement and calculation, the model somewhat over-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger values, and under-predicts at smaller values. The model also underestimates the energy loss coefficients as wave reflection becomes larger. These differences occur because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater, which increase the energy loss at the perforated wall. The frequency-averaged reflection coefficient shows a minimum when the wave chamber width is approximately 0.2 times the significant wavelength, and it decreases with increasing wave steepness. Finally, it is shown that the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater depends on the wave frequency, so that the reflected wave spectrum shows a frequency dependent oscillatory behavior.  相似文献   

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