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1.
The study verifies the Black Sea wave model using field data obtained from the Katsiveli research platform. The WAM and mesoscale MM5 and WRF atmospheric models, which are used to calculate the wind field for the wave model, were recently adjusted to the Black Sea region at the Marine Hydrophysical Institute. The results of the work are presented as characteristics of the simulation quality used in world practice in other regions. The scatter index for a significant wave height is 70% in summer and 50% in winter. The values of the scatter index of wave parameters and wind speed appear to be at the same level as in semi-enclosed seas on the northern side of the Mediterranean Sea. It is shown that atmospheric simulation correctly reproduces the interaction between synoptic processes and the mountain range extending alongshore. Error sources in wave simulation are discussed. The most significant drawback is the possibility of mesoscale instability in the atmospheric model without assimilation of observation data within the computational domain.  相似文献   

2.
基于WAVEWATCH III,在输入相同的风场条件下,评估了三个输入耗散项WAM3,WAM4以及TC96在是否考虑大气稳定性时的模拟能力。通过5组实验,用南海的测波雷达数据以及研究区域内HY-2高度计的有效波高数据对不同源项的模拟结果进行了比较分析,研究区域为100-135°E,0-35°N。对TC96中的风速校正参数进行了敏感性分析。结果表明,这几种源项在涌浪占主导时的模拟效果都不太理想;考虑大气不稳定性的TC96源项模拟的效果最好;大气不稳定性的影响是以一种所谓的“高效风速”的策略来反映的,其中最重要的一个参数为风速转换参数,这个参数非常敏感,在对特定区域进行模拟之前,应先分析出这个参数的最优值。  相似文献   

3.
This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (Hmo), mean wave period (Tm02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data.  相似文献   

4.
5.
Within the EU-funded project HIPOCAS (Hindcast of Dynamic Processes of the Ocean and Coastal Area of Europe), high-resolution wave hindcasts were performed for the period 1958–2001 over the Eastern Mediterranean. The state-of-the-art WAM model was used for producing the 44-year wave data set. The wave model was driven by wind data generated from the regional atmospheric model REMO. The WAM model outputs of significant wave height were validated against in-situ measurements and satellite data. The model results show a good agreement with observations. The homogeneous wave data set produced by the model was then used for a study of long-term variability and climatic trends in the region.  相似文献   

6.
With the purpose of revealing the actual advantages of the new source function that was earlier proposed in [5] for use in numerical wind wave models, its testing and verification was carried out by means of modification of the WAM (Cycle-4) model. The verification was performed on the basis of a comparison of the results of wave simulation for a given wind field with the buoy observation data obtained in three oceanic regions. In the Barents Sea, this kind of comparison was made for wave observations from a single buoy with an interval of 6 hours for a period of 3 years. In two regions of the North Atlantic, the comparison was performed for 3 buoys in both regions for observation periods of 30 days with an interval of 1 hour. Estimations of the simulation accuracy were obtained for a series of wind wave parameters, and they were compared with the original and modified WAM model. Advantages of the modified model consisting of the enhancement of the calculation speed by 20–25% and a 1.5- to 2-fold increase in the simulation accuracy for the significant wave height and the mean period were proved.  相似文献   

7.
An energetically-balanced model has been used to perform an eddy-resolving experiment on the calculation of the baroclinic circulation in the Black Sea. As the initial and boundary conditions, historical data on the density and tangential wind stress for the summer season have been used. Following the integration of a set of model equations, an array of anticyclonic eddies formed on days 50–60 on the margins of the Black Sea rim current. Off the Caucasus, Crimean, and Bulgarian coast, anticyclonic eddies are shown to be quasi-stationary. The north-western Black Sea and Anatolia coastal zone are areas of Black Sea rim current instability, where synoptic eddies — both cyclonic and anticyclonic — are generated.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

8.
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of Cd for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.  相似文献   

9.
A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.  相似文献   

10.
Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.  相似文献   

11.
Accurately estimating the mean and extreme wave statistics and better understanding their directional and seasonal variations are of great importance in the planning and designing of ocean and coastal engineering works. Due to the lack of long-term wave measurement data, the analysis of extreme waves is often based on the numerical wave hind-casting results. In this study, the wave climate in the East China Seas (including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea) for the past 35 years (1979–2013) is hind-casted using a third generation wave model – WAMC4 (Cycle 4 version of WAM model). Two sets of reanalysis wind data from NCEP (National Centers for Environmental Prediction, USA) and ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) are used to drive the wave model to generate the long-term wave climate. The hind-casted waves are then analysed to study the mean and extreme wave statistics in the study area. The results show that the mean wave heights decrease from south to north and from sea to land in general. The extreme wave heights with return periods of 50 and 100 years in the summer and autumn seasons are significantly higher than those in the other two seasons, mainly due to the effect of typhoon events. The mean wave heights in the winter season have the highest values, mainly due to the effect of winter monsoon winds. The comparison of extreme wave statistics from both wind fields with the field measurements at several nearshore wave observation stations shows that the extreme waves generated by the ECMWF winds are better than those generated by the NCEP winds. The comparison also shows the extreme waves in deep waters are better reproduced than those in shallow waters, which is partly attributed to the limitations of the wave model used. The results presented in this paper provide useful insight into the wave climate in the area of the East China Seas, as well as the effect of wind data resolution on the simulation of long-term waves.  相似文献   

12.
A method to predict typhoon waves   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
Amethodtopredicttyphoonwaves¥YangChuncheng;DaiMingrui;GaoZhihua;ChengZhan;XuFuxiang;LiuYu;LiFengjin;LiJie;SuDongfu;ZhangDacuo...  相似文献   

13.
Linear structural relations express the linear relationship between random variables when each of the variables under consideration is subjected to inherent variability and measurement error. The linear structural method is more general than the classical regression, which is often used incorrectly in calibration of altimeter data or validation of wave model results. In this work the linear structural method is elaborated and applied for the adjustment of TOPEX/Poseidon (T/P) data by means of in situ measured wave data in the Aegean Sea. In addition, a comparison of the buoy and T/P data with the WAM wave model predictions is performed revealing an underestimation trend of the model.  相似文献   

14.
Modeling of tropical cyclone winds and waves for emergency management   总被引:5,自引:0,他引:5  
This paper compares three commonly used parametric models of tropical cyclone winds and evaluates their application in the wave model WAM. The parametric models provide surface wind fields based on best tracks of tropical cyclones and WAM simulates wave growth based on the wind energy input. The model package is applied to hindcast the wind and wave conditions of Hurricane Iniki, which directly hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1992. The parametric wind fields are evaluated against buoy and aircraft measurements made during the storm. A sensitivity analysis determines the spatial and spectral resolution needed to model the wave field of Hurricane Iniki. Comparisons of the modeled waves with buoy measurements indicate good agreement within the core of the storm and demonstrate the capability of the model package as a forecasting tool for emergency management.  相似文献   

15.
I. Genov 《Oceanology》2009,49(4):540-557
A model for the palaeoenvironmental evolution of the Black Sea and its adjacent basins during the past 20.000 years, in which variations in sedimentation, erosion, and hydrologic processes as a result of climatic change are taken into consideration, is developed. The data used include those from five cruises in the Black Sea with the participation of the author, seismo-acoustic data in the possession of the Institute of Oceanology in Varna, and data from the published literature. The most important result is that the water level of the Black Sea is controlled largely by that of the Marmara Sea via the Bosporus sill. The water circulation in the south part of the Bosporus channel as natural regulative mechanism of the Black Sea level during 11800–9000 yr C14 BP is produced. A succession of climatic and water conditions for the Black Sea by pollen analysis is presented. The linear ridges on the Black Sea shelf as result of the lower Holocene regression are proved by means of a stratigraphic interpretation of the seismo-acoustic profiles. The levels of the Black Sea, Marmara Sea, and Mediterranean at regarded intervals of time are presented. An attempt at explanation of maximum number of facts from the study region with this model is made.  相似文献   

16.
本文主要介绍了南海及邻近海域大气-海浪-海洋耦合精细化数值预报系统的研制概况。预报区域为99°E~135°E,15°S~45°N,包括渤海、黄海、东海和南海及其周边海域。为了给耦合预报模式提供较准确的预报初始场,在预报开始之前,分别进行了海浪模式和海洋模式的前24小时同化后报模拟。海浪模式和海洋模式都采用了集合调整Kalman滤波同化方法,海浪模式同化了Jason-2有效波高数据;海洋模式同化了SST数据、MADT数据和ARGO剖面数据。为了改进海洋温度和盐度的模拟,我们在海洋模式的垂向混合方案中引入波致混合和内波致混合的作用。预报系统的运行主要包括两个阶段,首先海浪模式和海洋模式进行了2014年1月至2015年10月底的同化后报模拟,强迫场源自欧洲气象中心的六小时的再分析数据产品。然后耦合预报系统将同化后报模拟的结果作为初始场进行了14个月的耦合预报。预报产品包括大气产品(气温、风速风向、气压等)、海浪产品(有效波高和波向等)、海流产品(温度、盐度和海流等)。一系列观测资料的检验比较表明该大气-海浪-海洋耦合精细化数值预报系统的预报结果较为可靠,可以为南海及周边海洋资源开发和安全保障提供数据和信息产品服务。  相似文献   

17.
We present the results of development and testing of a coastal X-band radar system for monitoring wind waves and currents at the Black Sea (near Gelendzhik) created on the basis of nautical radars. Radar measurements of wave heights were validated by data from a wave buoy and a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The conditions for successful radar measurements of waves in the coastal environment have been determined. It was shown that a radar with an aperture 1° could successfully measure wave heights at a distance of 1.2 km from the radar, when waves arrive at an angle of ±31° to the main sensing direction. In this case, for wave height measurements, the correlation coefficient between the radar and independent data is 0.82 and the standard deviation is 0.26 m.  相似文献   

18.
A characterization of extreme wave parameters during extratropical cyclones in the Northern hemisphere is made from WAM wave model hindcasts. In February 2007 two extratropical storms were observed in the North Atlantic and the wave fields associated with them are modeled in this paper. Wave buoy and satellite altimetry data were used to validate the WAM hindcast results. The distribution of the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI), kurtosis and the ratio of maximum wave height to significant wave height (abnormality index) around the eye of the two extratropical cyclones is studied. It is found that under these conditions the BFI and kurtosis are significantly larger mainly in the fourth quadrant and also when the wind direction is aligned with the wave propagation direction. In these regions the probability of occurrence of abnormal waves is higher.  相似文献   

19.
The paper analyses results of the numerical simulation of upwelling events in the north-western part of the Black Sea, mostly near the South Crimea. The calculations were performed using a numerical model based on primitive hydrodynamics equations. Emphasis is laid on the case when a salinity front simulating the Black Sea rim current is prescribed in the initial conditions. The interaction of the Black Sea rim current's stream with the coastline and bottom topography leads to the development of an upwelling near the Crimea's coast, even in the absence of wind forcing. The paper discusses the structure of the three-dimensional circulation of waters in the shelf area of the NW Black Sea. Numerical modelling results are matched up with the satellite data obtained by the HRPT receiving station. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

20.
9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引:5,自引:2,他引:5  
利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验,并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明,WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明,风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性,但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   

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