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I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside… 相似文献
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结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场 总被引：6，自引：3，他引：6
波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟. 相似文献
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In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions. 相似文献
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南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行ＮＮＥ向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。 相似文献
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近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。 相似文献
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岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。 相似文献
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基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。 相似文献
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Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures. 相似文献
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Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78. 相似文献
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This paper presents the application of the depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model, CCHE2D-NHWAVE (Wei and Jia, 2014), for simulating several types of coastal wave processes. Specifically, the model is applied to (1) predict the swash zone hydrodynamics involving wave bore propagation, (2) resolve wave propagation, breaking, and overtopping in fringing reef environments, (3) study the vegetation effect on wave height reduction through both submerged and emergent vegetation zones using the drag force term technique, and (4) simulate tsunami wave breaking in the nearshore zone and inundation in the coastal area. Satisfactory agreement between numerical results and benchmark data shows that the non-hydrostatic model is capable of modeling a wide range of coastal wave processes. Furthermore, thanks to its simple numerical formulation, the non-hydrostatic model also demonstrates a better computation efficiency when comparing with other numerical models. 相似文献
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The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles. 相似文献
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A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements. 相似文献
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Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change. 相似文献
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Thus far various numerical models have been developed and improved to aid understanding of the sediment transport process due to tsunamis. However, the applicability of these models for the field-scale bathymetric change remains a major issue due to the scarcity of measured bathymetric data immediately before and after tsunamis. This study focuses on assessing the applicability of the sediment transport model by comparing the model results with measured bathymetry data obtained one month before and two months after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Kirinda Fishery Harbor, Sri Lanka. Obtained model results were compared with measured data along four different transects. In particular, similar to the measured data, the model reproduced the bed level change at the harbor mouth well, although it shows some discrepancy on bathymetric change along the shoreline, which is directly affected by littoral drift. Therefore, it is noted that the divergence of reproducing the local bathymetry change is due to the normal wind wave effect on measured data and the model limitations. Hence we included the wind wave effect in modeled data and the discrepancy between measured and modeled data was reduced. Furthermore, the modeled bed level change indicates a dynamic behavior in terms of the net variation during the tsunami flow, such that deposition dominates in the inflow and erosion dominates in the backflow. Both bed level variation and the suspended load concentration reveal that the large amount of eroded sediment attributable to tsunami waves was in suspended form and was deposited in the nearshore area after the water fluctuation had abated. The model results further indicate that eroded sediment at the initial depth deeper than 11 m might be brought by the incoming tsunami waves and deposited in the nearshore area where the depth is shallower than 7 m. 相似文献
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实际工程中存在大量的曲边界,因此在曲边界上的计算准确性可以考察出一个数值模型的实用价值。利用Beji的改进型Boussinesq方程建立了一个有限元方法的数值波浪模型。造波方面采用Fenton提出的非线性规则波浪解;在墙边界处,以求解法线方向和切线方向的速度和导数代替求解x、y方向的速度和导数,从而使边界条件直接适用、严格满足,保证了对曲边界计算的准确性。"重开始广义极小残量法"的使用保证了求解方程组的效率和精度,使造波和边界处理方法的有效性和准确性得到了合理地诠释。通过与试验数据、他人数值结果、解析解的比对,显示出该模型计算稳定、结果准确,真正体现出了有限元方法对曲边界适用的优势。 相似文献
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Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach. 相似文献
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缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。 相似文献