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1.
The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. 相似文献
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In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution. 相似文献
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Harald E. Krogstad 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(3):158-165
The paper derives probability distributions for height and period for the highest wave occurring at a fixed location when the sea state varies. Short-term distributions of height and period are derived using a data base of waverider data from the Norwegian Sea. The derived theoretical relationships are illustrated by various examples of measured long-term statistics of the sea state. 相似文献
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利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析东中国海的风、浪场特征 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
利用TOPEX卫星高度计和日本气象厅浮标观测资料,对东中国海的有效波高和风速进行比较,分析了卫星高度计资料的有效性。利用有效波高和风速的3种概率密度函数分布,结合TOPEX卫星高度计资料,并采用最大似然方法对统计分布参数进行估计,结果表明,有效波高的对数-正态概率密度分布与观测资料的直方图在有效波高的整个范围内符合较好,风速的直方图与Weibul概率密度分布符合较好。同时,分析了有效波高大于4 m的巨浪在东中国海的时空分布特征,表明巨浪多出现在冬、秋两季,平均有效波高最大值出现在夏季,且主要分布在东中国海东南部。 相似文献
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The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area. 相似文献
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基于秘鲁钱凯港的防波堤三维整体模型试验结果,研究了涌浪绕射、透射联合作用对港内波况的影响。分析了不同波向、不同谱峰周期的入射波条件下港内不同功能区的波况分布规律,并对比分析了具有不同周期的入射波对港内不同区域波高的影响,兼顾分析了波向的影响。结果表明,在涌浪作用下,受透射、绕射影响,不同入射波条件下港内比波高分布规律相关性较好,距离口门越近、入射波波长越长,港内比波高越大;入射波周期对港内波况影响的差异和对波向的敏感性因港内不同区域而不同;防波堤阻挡效果好的波向,其入射波对港内的影响较小;对于受防波堤掩护性较好的内侧泊位,应重点关注泊位处的低频波浪对系泊的影响。 相似文献
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The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts. 相似文献
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《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(1-2):35-48
We present a statistical analysis of some of the largest waves occurring during 793 h of surface elevation measurements collected during 14 severe storms in the North Sea. This data contains 104 freak waves. It is found that the probability of occurrence of freak waves is only weekly dependent on the significant wave height, significant wave steepness and spectral bandwidth. The probability does show a slightly stronger dependency on the skew and kurtosis of the surface elevation data, but on removing the contribution to these measures from the presence of the freakwaves themselves, this dependency largely disappears.Distributions of extreme waves are modelled by fitting Generalised Pareto distributions, and extreme value distributions and return periods are given for freak waves in terms of the empirical fitted parameters. It is shown by comparison with these fits that both the Rayleigh distribution and the fit of Nerzic and Prevosto severely under-predict the probability of occurrence of extreme waves. For the most extreme freak wave in our data, the Rayleigh distribution over-predicts the return period by about 300 times when compared to the fitted model. 相似文献
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Traditional wave steepness s = H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves uniquely. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Parametric models for joint probability density distributions for deep water waves are presented. The joint distributions are for crest front steepness-wave height, vertical asymmetry factor-wave height, total wave steepness-wave height and wave height-wave period. The parametric models are estimated from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from measurements at sea on the Norwegian continental shelf. The results of the analysis presented here can be used in the estimation of the probabilities of occurrence of steep asymmetric waves and breaking waves in deep water. Thus the results are useful for the practical naval architect and ocean engineer who are considering unusual events in the sea, the associated accidents or responses and the probability of occurrence of such events. 相似文献
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The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution. 相似文献
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Ingo Drummen MingKang Wu Miroslaw Lech Kaminski Torgeir Moan 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(15-16):1208-1216
Previous studies of response conditioned wave methods have been focused on their applicability to the prediction of extreme nonlinear wave-induced load effects. The results showed that theses methods can be used to accurately and efficiently predict the nonlinear short-term probability distributions for rigid hull responses. This has led us to investigate how response conditioned wave methods can be used for long-term nonlinear fatigue analyses, and with which accuracy this can be done. In this paper we present the results from our investigation. The studies were performed using a container vessel with a length between perpendiculars of 281 m. Calculations were done with a nonlinear strip theory method in which the hull of the vessel was assumed to be rigid. The most likely response wave (MLRW) method was used to condition the waves. Only head seas were considered. We found that the MLRW method under-predicted the long-term fatigue damage by 3%. The method, however, required a simulation time that was approximately three orders of magnitude less than that required for a conventional long-term nonlinear analysis based on random irregular waves. A preliminary investigation showed that due to lacking springing and whipping contributions the MLRW method under-predicted the fatigue damage for a flexible hull by approximately 50%. Several comments about a more accurate extension of the proposed method to flexible hulls are included. 相似文献
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This paper examines the effects of digital processing, and therefore discretisation or sampling, of sea surface elevations that are, in reality, continuous. Using random linear wave theory, probability distributions for the measured (as opposed to actual) wave amplitudes and heights have been obtained which are conditional on the sampling rate. It is shown that with low sampling rates there are significant departures from the usual Rayleigh distribution. Rates of 1 Hz or less may lead to significant underestimation of the probability of very large waves. An analysis of full-scale measurements obtained from a platform in the North Sea supports these results. 相似文献
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Groupiness of Sea Waves and Their Characteristic Parameters 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Yu Yuxiu Gui Manhai
Professor Dept. of Civil Eng. Dalian University of Technology Dalian Master Dept. of Civil Eng. Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1996,(1)
Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed. 相似文献
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响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。 相似文献
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A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio. The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the variable cannot be easily defined. In this study, however, it can be derived from the relationship between the maximum and significant waves in a nonbreaking environment. Some examples are shown to validate the derived probability density function for the wave ratio parameter. By introducing the wave height ratio into reliability analysis of caisson breakwater, the maximum wave height can be used as an independent and primary random variable, which means that the risk of caisson failure during its lifetime can be evaluated realistically. 相似文献
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Dong Hyawn KIM Taerim KIM 《中国海洋工程》2014,28(5):579-586
A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the 相似文献
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The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods. 相似文献
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Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave. 相似文献