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The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given. 相似文献
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Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin. 相似文献
4.
- Based on field wave data, an empirical formula of wave envelope spectrum is given in this paper. Then the methods of both numerical and physical simulation of sea wave groups with the given spectrum and groupiness parameters are suggested. 相似文献
5.
Jeffrey H. List 《Coastal Engineering》1991,15(5-6)
This paper proposes a new definition of the groupiness factor, GF, based on the envelope of the incident-wave time series. It is shown that an envelope-based GF has several important advantages over the SIWEH-based groupiness factor, including objective criteria for determining the accuracy of the envelope function and well-defined numerical limits.Using this new GF, the variability of incident wave groupiness in the field is examined both temporally, in unbroken waves at a fixed location, and spatially, in a cross-shore array through the surf zone. Contrary to previous studies using the SIWEH-based GF, results suggest that incident wave groupiness may not be an independent parameter in unbroken waves; through a wide range of spectral shapes, from swell to storm waves, the groupiness did not vary significantly. As expected, the groupiness decreases rapidly as waves break through the surf zone, although significant wave height variability persists even through a saturated surf zone. The source of this inner surf zone groupiness is not identified; however, this observation implies that models of long wave generation must account for nonsteady radiation stress gradients landward of some narrow zone near the mean breakpoint. 相似文献
6.
YU Dingyong XU Delun ZHENG Jianguo
Professor Engineering School Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Professor Physical Oceanology Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Lecturer Engineering School Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(4)
Theoretical studies so far on random wave groups have all been in linear ways.Methods to sim-ulate random wave groups,an important subject in ocean engineering,also employ relationship resulting froma Gaussian process.Many filed measurements have shown that the real sea surfase displacement deviatessomewhat from Gaussian distribution.Tayfun et al.have further depicted in theory that the envelope spectralpeak frequency is constantly zero for a Gaussian process which means that the groupiness factors will be con-stants,too.In this paper,the effect of nonlinearity on groupiness of a random wave field is examined via thetheoretical results derived by Tayfun et al.from an expression of amplitude-modulated Stokes waves.Whenthe surface displacement is treated as a non-Gaussian process,it is found that the group height factors GF_1and GF_2 proposed by Zhao et al.and Yu et al.,respectively,depend on a nonlinearity factor as well as aspectrum-bandwidth factor,deferring from the case of a Gaussion process.Compariso 相似文献
7.
Cross-shore variations of wave groupiness by wavelet transform 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper proposes a new definition of groupiness factor (GF) based on the local wavelet energy density of the wave time series to describe the groupiness degree of waves. The main advantage of this new GF is that the effect of the operational definition on it is smaller than that on SIWEH-based GF or envelop-based GF. Then, the new GF is used to study the groupiness variations of mechanically generated irregular waves in a wave flume propagating on a slope of 1:45. The results of present study show that the decrease of groupiness in the coast is triggered by breaking. And energy distribution along the record time for the first harmonics of waves in the surf zone, which becomes more uniform than that out the surf zone, is the main reason causing the decrease of groupiness. 相似文献
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波群对垂直桩柱的作用力 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在波浪槽中进行了具有不同群因子和连长的随机波群对三种直径的桩柱作用力的实验研究,指出波浪峰力的比值不随波群的连长变化,而随波群因子的增加而增大。由于桩柱是一非线性系统,作用力的群团子大于波浪的群因子,其连长小于波浪的连长。波浪峰力的比值不仅随KC数的增加而增大,还随波群因子GF的增加而增大。 相似文献
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The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same. 相似文献
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基于二次开发开源计算流体力学(CFD)软件包Open FOAM中的非稳态不可压缩两相流求解器inter Foam建立数值模型,增加了基于方向谱的三维造波边界和吸收边界,成功模拟了三维多向畸形波过程。通过与模型试验波面和目标谱对比,验证了数值模型模拟三维多向畸形波的有效性。另外,分析了网格尺度和柯朗数对模拟结果的影响,并使用连长统计和SIWEH两种方法分析了包含畸形波波列的群性。研究结果表明:在本研究范围内,网格尺度设置0.02 m×0.01 m×0.02 m,最大柯朗数选择0.25,模拟出的三维畸形波效果最好;从能量角度描述畸形波的群性更为合理。 相似文献
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Long term wave climate of both extreme wave and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures.
Since the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is not enough to provide reliable wave statistics, the wave
climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. Basic data
base of hindcasted wave parameters such as significant wave height, peak period and direction has been established continuously
for the period of 25 years starting from 1979 and for major 106 typhoons for the past 53 years since 1951 for each grid point
of the North East Asia Regional Seas with grid size of 18 km. Wind field reanalyzed by European Center for Midrange Weather
Forecasts (ECMWF) was used for the simulation of waves for the extratropical storms, while wind field calculated by typhoon
wind model with typhoon parameters carefully analyzed using most of the available data was used for the simulation of typhoon
waves. Design wave heights for the return period of 10, 20, 30, 50 and 100 years for 16 directions at each grid point have
been estimated by means of extreme wave analysis using the wave simulation data. As in conventional methodsi of design criteria
estimation, it is assumed that the climate is stationary and the statistics and extreme analysis using the long-term hindcasting
data are used in the statistical prediction for the future. The method of extreme statistical analysis in handling the extreme
events like typhoon Maemi in 2003 was evaluated for more stable results of design wave height estimation for the return periods
of 30–50 years for the cost effective construction of coastal structures. 相似文献
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响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。 相似文献
15.
为了科学的分析离岸人工岛群对周边海岸动力的影响,本文以龙口市人工岛为例,运用MIKE21数值模拟软件建立了龙口离岸人工岛及附近海域的水动力模型和波浪模型,根据波浪的生成、成长和传播原理,针对最有可能形成较大波浪的W、WNW、NW三个方向,采用频率为0.5%(重现期为200a)的高潮位叠加频率为0.5%(重现期为200a)的W、WNW和NW向风作用下的波浪场和水动力场进行数值模拟研究,给出了高潮位条件下人工岛周边不同波向对应的有效波高和最大波高值,以及最大流速和流向数据,可为人工岛群的地坪标高确立和防浪建筑物的布设提供科学依据。 相似文献
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Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall. 相似文献
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我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(3):219-242
This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on bore run-up theory are found to give excellent agreement with recent experimental data for regular waves, wave groups and random waves. The theory is used to derive parameters that predict the onset of swash saturation and the spectral characteristics of the saturated shoreline motion. These parameters are again in good agreement with the measured laboratory data and are also consistent with previous experimental data. Simulation of irregular wave run-up using a series of overlapping monochromatic swash events is found to reproduce typical features of swash oscillations and can accurately describe both the low and high frequency spectral characteristics of the swash zone. In particular, the low frequency components of the run-up can be modelled directly using a sequence of incident short wave bores, with no direct long wave input to the numerical simulations. This suggests that wave groupiness must be accounted for when modelling shoreline oscillations. 相似文献
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根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。 相似文献
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A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor. Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction. The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into ac- count the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model's wave boundary conditions. The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data. The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engi- neering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement ( Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest comer of Half Moon Bay. 相似文献