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《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2005,62(1-2):183-192
Definitions of the ‘foreshore’ are described as presented in various coastal geomorphological and related textbooks. To many geomorphologists, the term foreshore is considered synonymous with the intertidal zone. These definitions are compared with the legal definitions of the foreshore as exist in Britain under the three different property law regimes: English, Scottish and Udal law. The legal definitions and many of the geomorphological definitions are based on tidal data. The differences between the observed tides at a tide gauge and on a beach at a distance from the gauge are considered. It is concluded that the term foreshore has a very specific legal meaning in each property law regime, therefore the authors propose that the term ‘foreshore’ should be used to relate to the legally defined area of the coast and, unless specifically referring to the foreshore, scientists should use the term intertidal. 相似文献
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0709号台风影响下粤东后江湾海滩地形动力过程研究 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
基于0709号台风"圣帕"影响下粤东后江湾的现场实测海滩前滨地形资料和水动力、风等资料,采用典型相关分析方法识别了台风影响下海滩前滨地形不同的变化过程,揭示了这些不同变化过程的主要控制因子,并尝试给出了物理解释。研究结果表明:(1)台风影响下海滩前滨地形的主要变化过程是水上滩肩被破坏—水下岸坡略有堆积—水下沙坝泥沙向海搬运,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是风速东向量、最大波高和碎波尺度参数;(2)海滩前滨地形的次要变化过程是海滩前滨泥沙向海搬运而形成水下沙坝,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是最大波周期和海滩地下水位;(3)海滩前滨地形也表现出前滨上部地带堆积、下部侵蚀的变化过程,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是沿岸流、海滩地下水位和最大波高。这些研究结果进一步揭示了台风影响下海滩前滨地形动力过程是由多个不同的地形-动力过程耦合作用而组成。 相似文献
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The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.
A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.
The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.
The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.
Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence. 相似文献
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在海滩地形测量的基础上，分析了汇泉湾前滨海滩剖面沙坝、沟槽的短时间尺度变化特征。研究结果表明，2005年3～11月．海滩剖面沙坝顶沟槽底相对高度均变小，沙坝顶部宽度出现不同程度的变宽或变窄现象；在西北侧前滨海滩上，沟槽最底部淤高0．1-0．35m，沟槽轴线向陆移动距离较大，为17．5-3．5m，沙坝顶部淤高0～0．2m，沙坝顶部轴线向陆移动0～42．25m。而东南部前滨海滩上，大部分剖面沙坝顶被削平蚀低0．1-0．2m，沙坝项部轴线向海移动7～23．75m。在海滩西北部和中部的前滨海滩上，2005年11月沟槽最底部轴线到高潮线的距离为44～58m，沙坝顶轴线到高潮线的距离为63．75-98．5m。 相似文献
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As coastal destinations continue to grow, due to tourism and residential expansion, the demand for public beach access and related amenities will also increase. The issue confronting management agencies responsible for providing and maintaining public beach access and related amenities is the varying needs and preferences of both residents and tourists of coastal destinations. The purpose of this paper is to provide comprehensive information about coastal recreational needs of residents and tourists with regards to public beach access and associated amenities using the stated preference choice method. Overall, the results indicate tourists were more interested in additional public beach access points and commercial development, while residents supported beach rules and regulations but opposed high levels of crowding and noise. Implications of these results for management agencies include the utilization of parking fees to subsidize additional public beach access points, identifying appropriate types and levels of commercial development that moderate the use of coastal resources by tourists and day-trip users, and implementing beach rules and regulations that reduce the potential for conflict between user groups. Providing management agencies with comprehensive information of the preferences of different beach user groups can assist in the development of more effective policies and management programs. 相似文献
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Chi-Ok Oh Anthony W. Dixon James W. Mjelde Jason Draper 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2008,51(12):847-853
An increase in the population of coastal counties and popularity of coastal beaches as tourism destinations create difficulties for management agencies responsible for providing public beach access. The objective of this paper is to determine non-resident visitors to South Carolina beaches economic value for public beach access. Visitors are willing to pay an extra $6.60 per day for additional beach access points and parking or an aggregate of $93 million. Visitors' economic value of public beach access allows decision-makers the ability to better compare management policies in their efforts to provide sufficient public beach access through a target effective strategy. 相似文献
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The spatial distribution of the common Atlantic Coast mole crab, Emerita talpoida, is strongly influenced by inshore processes and the grain size and morphology of sand beaches. E. talpoida increase in density across the foreshore toward the lower part of the beach (step), with high concentrations occurring within areas of reduced wave energy. Engineering structures extending across the foreshore, such as the Coastal Engineering Research Facility (research pier) at Duck, North Carolina, significantly alter wave action and thus modify the distribution of beach sediment and beach morphology. This, in turn, results in modifications of E. talpoida distributions. The pier's impact on the natural processes and patterns of both physical and ecological elements of the beach introduces an “uncertainty principle” that must be taken into consideration when designing experiments at research facilities. 相似文献
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Hee Jun Lee Jong-Dae Do Sun Sin Kim Won-Kyung Park Kicheon Jun 《Ocean Science Journal》2016,51(4):681-694
Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):573-588
Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions. Runup, the height of discrete water-level maxima, depends on two dynamically different processes; time-averaged wave setup and total swash excursion, each of which is parameterized separately. Setup at the shoreline was best parameterized using a dimensional form of the more common Iribarren-based setup expression that includes foreshore beach slope, offshore wave height, and deep-water wavelength. Significant swash can be decomposed into the incident and infragravity frequency bands. Incident swash is also best parameterized using a dimensional form of the Iribarren-based expression. Infragravity swash is best modeled dimensionally using offshore wave height and wavelength and shows no statistically significant linear dependence on either foreshore or surf-zone slope. On infragravity-dominated dissipative beaches, the magnitudes of both setup and swash, modeling both incident and infragravity frequency components together, are dependent only on offshore wave height and wavelength. Statistics of predicted runup averaged over all sites indicate a − 17 cm bias and an rms error of 38 cm: the mean observed runup elevation for all experiments was 144 cm. On intermediate and reflective beaches with complex foreshore topography, the use of an alongshore-averaged beach slope in practical applications of the runup parameterization may result in a relative runup error equal to 51% of the fractional variability between the measured and the averaged slope. 相似文献
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Confirmation of beach accretion by grain-size trend analysis: Camposoto beach, Cádiz, SW Spain 总被引：4，自引：4，他引：0
An application of the grain size trend analysis (GSTA) is used in an exploratory approach to characterize sediment transport on Camposoto beach (Cádiz, SW Spain). In May 2009 the mesotidal beach showed a well-developed swash bar on the upper foreshore, which was associated with fair-weather conditions prevailing just before and during the field survey. The results were tested by means of an autocorrelation statistical test (index I of Moran). Two sedimentological trends were recognized, i.e. development towards finer, better sorted and more negatively skewed sediment (FB–), and towards finer, better sorted and less negatively or more positively skewed sediment (FB+). Both vector fields were compared with results obtained from more classical approaches (sand tracers, microtopography and current measurements). This revealed that both trends can be considered as realistic, the FB+ trend being identified for the first time in a beach environment. The data demonstrate that, on the well-developed swash bar, sediment transported onshore becomes both finer and better sorted towards the coast. On the lower foreshore, which exhibits a steeper slope produced by breaking waves, the higher-energy processes winnow out finer particles and thereby produce negatively skewed grain-size distributions. The upper foreshore, which has a flatter and smoother slope, is controlled by lower-energy swash-backwash and overwash processes. As a result, the skewness of the grain-size distributions evolves towards less negative or more positive values. The skewness parameter appears to be distributed as a function of the beach slope and, thus, reflects variations in hydrodynamic energy. This has novel implications for coastal management. Figure
GSTA model for Camposoto Beach, Cádiz, with FB– (finer, better sorted, more negatively skewed) and FB+ (finer, better sorted, less negatively/more positively skewed) textural trends dominating the lower and upper foreshore respectively 相似文献
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The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area. 相似文献
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This paper measures willingness to pay (WTP) for public access to additional beach area and trail improvements to a coastal recreational site in the west of Ireland. The Contingent Behaviour model is used to measure the increased number of trips associated with improved public access using a connecting trail between two beach areas along a stretch of Irish coastline. Results show that improving access through the use of the connecting trail increases consumer surplus by €111.15 per person per annum. It is argued that in designing new regulation such as Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) for the management of Ireland's coastline, an understanding of the values the Irish public place on coastal recreational access will be important to manage the resource in a sustainable manner. 相似文献
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Joevivek Vincent Jayaraj Chandrasekar Nainarpandian Jayangondaperumal Ramakrishnan Thakur Vikram Chandr Shree Purniema Krishnan 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(5):151-160
To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition. 相似文献
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利用福建长乐江田下沙砂质海滩台风前后两次野外调查资料,探讨了该处沙滩地貌和沉积物组合分布的基本特征;初步研究了该处沙滩对0418号台风“艾利”的响应模式.研究结果表明,下沙沙滩剖面沉积物以细砂和中细砂为主,台风前后采集的18个样品中,细砂6个,占总样品量的33%;中细砂11个,占总样品量的61%.沉积物结构上具有三维均匀性,沉积特征单一.剖面地形具有典型的夷直海岸特点,前滨滩面宽阔平坦,后滨沙丘带发育,岸线平直.受台风“艾利”作用,剖面后滨和高潮带遭受严重侵蚀,后滨低沙丘带平均蚀退超过6m,并出现高度为0.5~1.0m间的直立侵蚀陡坎.海滩沉积物对台风的响应相对较弱,台风过后剖面表层沉积物的平均粒径(Mz)均值由2.48变为2.39,粒度稍有变大;分选系数(σi)平均值由0.52变为0.63,分选稍有变差;偏度(Ski)平均值由-0.02变为0.01,峰态(Kg)平均值由0.96变为1.13;偏度和峰度没有明显变化.剖面底层沉积物对0418号台风“艾利”的响应特征与表层沉积物的沉积响应相似. 相似文献
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Elisa Casella Alessio Rovere Andrea Pedroncini Colin P. Stark Marco Casella Marco Ferrari Marco Firpo 《Geo-Marine Letters》2016,36(2):151-163
The aim of this study was to evaluate topographic changes along a stretch of coastline in the Municipality of Borghetto Santo Spirito (Region of Liguria, Italy, north-western Mediterranean) by means of a remotely piloted aircraft system coupled with structure from motion and multi-view stereo techniques. This sector was surveyed three times over 5 months in the fall–winter of 2013–2014 (1 November 2013, 4 December 2013, 17 March 2014) to obtain digital elevation models and orthophotos of the beach. Changes in beach topography associated with storm action and human activities were assessed in terms of gain/loss of sediments and shifting of the wet–dry boundary defining the shoreline. Between the first and second surveys, the study area was hit by two storms (10–11 November 2013 and 21–22 November 2013) with waves approaching from the E–NNE, causing a shoreline retreat which, in some sectors, reached 7 m. Between the second and third surveys, by contrast, four storms (25–27 December 2013, 5–6 January 2014, 17–18 January 2014 and 6–10 February 2014) with waves propagating from the SE produced a general advancement of the shoreline (up to ~5 m) by deposition of sediments along some parts of the beach. The data also reflect changes in beach topography due to human activity during the 2013 fall season, when private beach managers quarried ~178 m3 of sediments on the emerged beach near the shoreline to accumulate them landwards. The results show that drones can be used for regular beach monitoring activities, and that they can provide new insights into the processes related to natural and/or human-related topographic beach changes. 相似文献
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台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究 总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6
通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。 相似文献
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In a novel finding for a beach environment, Poizot et al. (2013) identified an FB+ trend (sediments becoming finer, better sorted and more positively skewed upshore) on a well-developed swash bar on the upper foreshore of the Camposoto beach of Cádiz in SW Spain. In their Discussion of that paper, Muñoz-Perez et al. (2014) provide some supporting arguments and also report grain-size, beach profile and other data from nearby beaches which differ from those of Poizot and colleagues for Camposoto beach, pointing out that a trend observed on one beach may not apply to a neighbouring beach. However, even though the absolute values differ, the overall trends actually do show the same general behaviour. In our Reply to their comments, we also address some difficulties in comparing granulometric datasets generated by different analytical techniques. 相似文献
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热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。 相似文献