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1.
《Applied Ocean Research》1997,19(2):113-140
The effect of breaking and steep non-breaking waves on a vertical pile such as found in minimal caisson structures in the Gulf of Mexico shallow water environment was studied in a wave tank testing. The waves generated were both regular and irregular. The irregular waves were of Bretschneider type. In some tests current was combined in the direction of waves. Specially steep waves in the recorded wave profile were chosen for the analysis of wave forces. It was observed that the forces on the caisson at the wave frequency due to breaking waves were no higher in general than those in nonbreaking steep waves. The drag coefficients in waves alone were much higher than those in a combined wave-current field. The wave-current drag coefficients approached those found in the steady current alone. 相似文献
2.
The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach. 相似文献
3.
Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
4.
A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor. Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction. The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into ac- count the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model's wave boundary conditions. The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data. The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engi- neering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement ( Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest comer of Half Moon Bay. 相似文献
5.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
6.
Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift velocity shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made. 相似文献
7.
This paper provides an overview of a new large scale laboratory data set on the kinematics of breaking tsunami wavefronts. The aim of the experiments was to provide an open access data set for model testing, calibration and verification, with particular emphasis on fluid kinematics in the wave breaking and run-up (swash) zones. The experiments were performed over a composite slope in the tsunami wave basin at the O. H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University. Data for ten different wave conditions were collected, including non-breaking and breaking waves, and both shore breaks and fully developed long bores.Surface elevation and fluid kinematics were measured with a closely spaced array of surface piercing wave gauges, non-contact ultrasonic wave gauges and four 3-D side-looking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The array was traversed from the nearshore (depth = 0.2 m) to the middle and upper run-up zone, providing kinematic data at 30 cross-shore locations. Video was also recorded from 4 cameras covering the propagation, breaking and run-up zones. Surface elevation, flow velocities and the wave maker displacement were also recorded to provide offshore boundary conditions.The experiments include conditions with wave heights up to 0.55 m, notional wave periods up to 20 s and run-up lengths of up to 15.2 m on a 1/30 slope. In terms of the slope in the shoaling and breaker zones, the data correspond to Iribarren numbers in the range of 0.26–5.6. Raw, calibrated and processed data are stored with open access within the OSU Tsunami Wave Basin Experiment Notebook, which provides full access to all the wave maker control signals, data, instrument coordinates, and processing and plotting software. This paper serves as an introduction to the data set, demonstrates data quality and provides an initial analysis of some key parameters that govern the impact of tsunami events, including run-up versus offshore wave conditions and nearshore bore height, the maximum inundation depths at the original shoreline position, and the time to maximum inundation depth and flow reversal. Examples of temporal and convective accelerations and turbulent flow components are also presented to illustrate further details of the kinematics. 相似文献
8.
The run-up on offshore structures induced by the steep regular wave is a highly nonlinear flow with a free surface.This article focuses on the investigation of the steep regular wave run-up on a single vertical cylinder by solving the Navier-Stokes equations. A numerical wave tank is established based on the open-source package to simulate the wave scattering induced by a vertical cylinder. The VOF method is applied to capture the large deformation and breaking of the free surface. The numerical model is validated by experimental results. The relative wave run-ups on the front face and the back face along the centerline of a cylinder are analyzed. The changes of the relative run-ups with the wave steepness, the relative diameter and the relative depth are studied. It is found that the relative run-ups on the front face and the back face of the cylinder depend mainly on the wave steepness and the relative diameter,while the dependence on the relative depth is weak. The empirical formulae are proposed to calculate the relative run-ups in terms of the wave steepness of incident regular waves and the relative diameter of a cylinder. 相似文献
9.
XIE Ming-xiao ZHANG Chi YANG Zhi-wen LI Shan LI Xin GUO Wei-jun ZUO Shu-hua 《海洋工程》2017,31(5):549-558
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition. 相似文献
10.
A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements. 相似文献
11.
Flow kinematics of focused wave groups on a plane beach in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Alistair G.L. Borthwick Alison C. Hunt Tong Feng Paul H. Taylor Peter K. Stansby 《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(12):1033-1044
Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current. 相似文献
12.
Particle image velocimetry has been used to examine three-dimensional breaking wave kinematics. Two cases of wave breaking were studied. In the first case, the wave field contains a single frequency with a uniform angular spreading within a given range {{ — , .}}. The wave field of the second case consists of a number of frequencies with a uniform angular spreading applied to each frequency. In both cases, the waves are designed such that the wave energy is focused at a given point. The degree of angular spreading has been found to have great effects on the breaking characteristics and kinematics. Two types of breaker were observed, the first being plunging and the second being spilling. Increasing the angular spreading had the effect of making the velocities within the extreme waves larger. The ratio of the crest velocity to the breaking wave speed was approximately unity under both single and multiple frequency conditions, regardless of the angular spreading. 相似文献
13.
Ching-Piao Tsai Hong-Bin Chen Hwung-Hweng Hwung Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483
Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index. 相似文献
14.
Surface water wave elevations and kinematics from four unidirectional irregular wave trains, with a Pierson and Moskowitz or JONSWAP random wave spectrum, were measured in the laboratory using resistance wave probes and a laser Doppler anemometer. The wave elevation data, velocity time series, extreme (largest) wave horizontal velocity profiles and extreme wave acceleration fields are compared with the predictions of a new wave kinematics model, named the hybrid wave model. Irregular waves are commonly viewed as the summation of many linear wave components of different frequencies, but more accurate predictions of downstream surface elevations (wave evolution) and wave kinematics are attained by considering the non-linear interactions among wave components. The hybrid wave model incorporates these non-linear wave component interactions, and its wave evolution predictions and kinematics estimates are compared with laboratory measurements in this study. Linear random wave theory, Wheeler stretching and linear extrapolation wave kinematic prediction techniques are also compared. Comparisons between measurements and hybrid wave model estimates demonstrate its improved capability to predict velocity and acceleration fields and wave evolution in two-dimensional irregular waves. 相似文献
15.
《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(4-5):235-250
The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action. 相似文献
16.
A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool. 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(10-11):949-969
Recent experimental data collected during the DELOS project are used to validate two approaches for simulating waves and currents in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters.The first approach is a phase-averaged method in which a wave model is used to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses, while a flow model (2-dimensional depth averaged or quasi-3D) is used to calculate the resulting wave driven currents. The second approach is a phase resolving method in which a high order 2DH-Boussinesq-type model is used to calculate the waves and flow.The models predict wave heights that are comparable to measurements if the wave breaking sub-model is properly tuned for dissipation over the submerged breakwater. It is shown that the simulated flow pattern using both approaches is qualitatively similar to that observed in the experiments. Furthermore, the phase-resolving model shows good agreement between measured and simulated instantaneous surface elevations in wave flume tests. 相似文献
18.
通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献
19.
In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):463-485
A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis. 相似文献