共查询到19条相似文献，搜索用时 93 毫秒
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针对目前缓坡方程中势函数假设比较多的问题，本文利用二维浅水方程来描述海浪水质点运动的有势假设，采取WKBJ方法推导缓坡方程在缓变地形下的波包方程，对势函数缓坡方程进行修正，以建立更全面更实用的近岸波浪传播计算模式。同时，文中还采用非势函数型模拟波浪传播。 相似文献
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非结构化网格下大范围波生流模拟和应用 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
波浪破碎引起的沿岸流是近岸海域的关键水动力因素。利用基于缓坡方程得到的光程函数方程和波作用守恒方程建立了考虑绕射效应的大范围波浪传播模型,模型可以考虑流场的影响;将波浪模型计算得到的辐射应力、波浪紊动系数等参数添加到三维水动力模型中,得到大范围近岸波生流的计算模型。模型中流场和波浪可以共用计算网格,且可同步耦合计算;模型基于非结构化网格,可以拟合复杂岸线的变化。模型对波生沿岸流、环流和逆流进行了验证,同时对实际海域的波生流进行了计算,结果表明:该模型对近岸波浪破碎引起的波生流具有很好的精度和适用性,可用于实际工程的计算。 相似文献
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将共轭变分同化方法应用于LAGFD－WAM海浪数值模式，导出了海浪谱能量平衡方程的共轭方程以及风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用的相庆共轭源函数，建立了海浪同化模型，数值计算仍采用特征线嵌入计算格式，为合成孔径雷达波谱反演资料和卫星高度计有效波高资料同化奠定理论基础。 相似文献
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首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比。应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好。此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理。 相似文献
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考虑波能耗散的近岸波浪传播数学模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于考虑能耗的定常缓坡方程，推导得出包含波能耗散的近岸水域波浪传播变形数学模型，并用所得模型对浅水中波浪的传播进行了计算，将计算结构与Berkhoff的实验数据进行比较，表明二者吻合很好。该数学模型能较好地解决波浪在浅水中的传播变形问题。 相似文献
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近岸局部范围内的波浪是由远处洋面上生成并传播过来的，它的生成发展源地(敏感性海域)对于所关注范围的波浪起决定性影响。共轭方程中的模式变量反映了物理参量的梯度变化，利用它可以达到精确确定敏感海域具体位置的目的。本文在LAGFD-WAM海浪模式基础上建立了海浪谱共轭方程，提出了通过在关注点邻域加一小扰动作为逆向积分海浪谱共轭方程的驱动项，来计算出梯度极值分布的思想。将这一思想应用于东中国海区域，通过一系列试验来确定舟山及长江口附近海域的敏感性区域位置。试验结果符合物理意义，梯度极值分布结果为下一步的多源卫星观测资料复合分析及最优实测方案设计奠定了基础。 相似文献
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A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
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Solitary waves have been commonly used as an initial condition in the experimental and numerical modelling of tsunamis for decades. However, the main component of a tsunami waves acts at completely different spatial and temporal scales than solitary waves. Thus, use of solitary waves as approximation of a tsunami wave may not yield realistic model results, especially in the coastal region where the shoaling effect restrains the development of the tsunami wave. Alternatively, N-shaped waves may be used to give a more realistic approximation of the tsunami wave profile. Based on the superposition of the sech2(*) waves, the observed tsunami wave profile could be approximated with the N-shaped wave method, and this paper presents numerical simulation results based on the tsunami-like wave generated based on the observed tsunami wave profile measured in the Tohoku tsunami. This tsunami-like wave was numerically generated with an internal wave source method based on the two-phase incompressible flow model with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free surface, and a finite volume scheme was used to solve all the governing equations. The model is first validated for the case of a solitary wave propagating within a straight channel, by comparing its analytical solutions to model results. Further, model comparisons between the solitary and tsunami-like wave are then made for (a) the simulation of wave run-up on shore and (b) wave transport over breakwater. Comparisons show that use of these largely different waveform shapes as inputs produces significant differences in overall wave evolution, hydrodynamic load characteristics as well as velocity and vortex fields. Further, it was found that the solitary wave uses underestimated the total energy and hence underestimated the run-up distance. 相似文献
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New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations for regular waves to random waves. The nonlinear effect of amplitude dispersion is incorporated approximately into the model by only considering the nonlinear effect on the carrier waves of random waves, which is done by introducing a representative wave amplitude for the carrier waves. The computation time is greatly saved by the introduction of the representative wave amplitude. The extension of the present model to breaking waves is also considered in order to apply the new equations to surf zone. The model is validated for random waves propagate over a shoal and in surf zone against measurements. 相似文献
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In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(1):1-24
This paper presents a new and more accurate set of deterministic evolution equations for the propagation of fully dispersive, weakly nonlinear, irregular, multidirectional waves. The equations are derived directly from the Laplace equation with leading order nonlinearity in the surface boundary conditions. It is demonstrated that previous fully dispersive formulations from the literature have used an inconsistent linear relation between the velocity potential and the surface elevation. As a consequence these formulations are accurate only in shallow water, while nonlinear transfer of energy is significantly underestimated for larger wave numbers. In the present work we correct this inconsistency. In addition to the improved deterministic formulation, we present improved stochastic evolution equations in terms of the energy spectrum and the bispectrum for multidirectional waves. The deterministic and stochastic formulations are solved numerically for the case of cross shore motion of unidirectional waves and the results are verified against laboratory data for wave propagation over submerged bars and over a plane slope. Outside the surf zone the two model predictions are generally in good agreement with the measurements, and it is found that the accuracy of e.g., the energy spectrum and of the third-order statistics is considerably improved by the new formulations, particularly outside the shallow-water range. 相似文献
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In this paper we study the breaking of long waves propagating along an open channel with linear friction on the bottom. The equations governing the wave propagation consist of a pair of first-order nonlinear hyperbolic partial differential equations (PDEs). We first transformed the PDEs into a pair of ordinary differential equations (ODEs) along the characteristic directions by means of a pair of Riemann invariants. By analyzing the ODEs, we found that the breaking of waves can be identified by the singularity of the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Thus, we derived an analytical solution for the derivative of the Riemann invariants. Then, a breaking criterion and an analytical formula for the estimation of breaking time were developed and validated through numerical experiments. It is also shown in the paper that the present model includes the previous model neglecting bottom friction as a special case. 相似文献
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On the basis of the new type Boussinesq equations (Madsen et al.,2002),a set of equations explicitly including the effects of currents on waves are derived.A numerical implementation of the present equations in one dimension is described.The numerical model is tested for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth with current present.The present numerical results are compared with those of other researchers.It is validated that the present numerical model can reasonably reflect the nonlinear influences of currents on waves.Moreover,the effects of inputting different incident boundary conditions on the calculated results are studied. 相似文献
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1 .IntroductionApile supportedplatesubmergedatacertaindepthunderseasurfacewasdevelopedasanewtypeofunderwaterbreakwaterfortheprotectionofcoastlinesandharbors .Thisisbecauseitdoesnothinderthewaterexchangebetweentheopenseaandtheprotectedareanordoesithindertheviewovertheopensea .Besides,itislessdependentonthegeotechnicalconditionsoftheseabottomwherethestructureistobeinstalled ;however,itscostishigh ,particularlyinrelativelydeepwaters .Formanyapplicationsitispossibletoreducethewavemotionintheprotec… 相似文献