共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 593 毫秒
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A new method using group-induced second-order long waves (GSLW) to describe wave groups is presented in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory by Longuet- Higgins and Steward (1964) . In the method , the parabolic relationship between GSLW and the wave envelope is first deduced , and then the distribution function of GSLW amplitude is derived . Thus, the formulae in terms of the moments of GSLW and short wave spectra for the average time duration and the mean length of runs of wave heights exceeding a certain level can be derived . A new groupiness factor equivalent to half the mean wave number in wave groups is defined by taking into account the widths of spectra of GSLW and short waves . Compared with theoretical results of others , ours are closer to measured wave data . 相似文献
3.
REPRESENTATION OF STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF WAVE GROUPS FOR SEA PROCESSES WITH DOUBLE-PEAKED SPECTRA
A method using group-induced second-order long waves(GSLW) to represent statistical properties of wave groups with double-peaked spectra is put forward in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory. The GSLW is regarded as a weighted linear superimposition of the second-order long Wave induced by the low peak frequency section and that induced by the high peak frequency section. There is a parabolic relationship between the GSLW and the wave envelope. Then the probability density function and the distribution function of the GSLW amplitude are derived. Thus the formulas for the average time duration and the mean length of runs can be derived. Good agreement between theoretical results and measured values was achieved. as verified with the measured double-peaked spectra in different regions. 相似文献
4.
Theoretical study of the effect of topographic height and width on generation of internal tides 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Internal tides generated upon two-dimensional Gaussian topographies of different sizes and steepness are investigated theoretically in a numerical methodology. Compared with previous theoretical works, this model is not restricted by weak topography, but provides an opportunity to examine the influence of topography. Ten typical cases are studied using different values of height and/or width of topography. By analyzing the baroclinic velocity fields, as well as their first eight baroclinic modes, it is found that the magnitude of baroclinic velocity increases and the vertical structure becomes increasingly complex as height increases or width decreases. However, when both height and width vary, while parameter s （the ratio of the topographic slope to the characteristic slope of the internal wave ray） remains invariant, the final pattern is influenced primarily by width. The conversion rate is studied and the results indicate that width determines where the conversion rate reaches a peak, and where it is positive or negative, whereas height affects only the magnitude. High and narrow topography is considerably more beneficial to converting energy from barotropic to baroclinic fields than low and wide topography. Furthermore, parameter s, which is an important non-dimensional parameter for internal tide generation, is not the sole parameter by which the baroclinic velocity fields and conversion rate are determined. 相似文献
5.
Long waves such as tsunamis can be trapped by islands due to wave refraction, and these trapped waves will cause huge damage even in the sheltered shoreline of the island. That all waves propagating into the topography and finally reaching the coastline are called perfect trapped modes, while any waves escaping from the topography are called leaky modes. Whether these long waves can be trapped is dependent on the depth profile of the island. This paper presents analytic solutions of the ray path for waves propagating into the circular island with power function profiles. Wave height distributions over the island are further investigated based on the principia that crowded rays correspond to large wave height and sparse rays correspond to small wave height. The trapped mechanism for water waves over the island is revealed based on their ray paths. Furthermore, the perfectly trapped criterion is derived, that is, when the slope gradient at the topography toe is greater than twice the ratio of the water depth to the radial distances, all wave rays propagating on the island will finally reach the coastline, and the waves are perfectly trapped. 相似文献
6.
《山地科学学报》2020,17(1):230-243
This paper describes model tests of single piles subjected to vertical cyclic compressive loading for three kinds of topography: sloping ground, level ground, and inclined bedrock. Comprehensive dynamic responses involving cyclic effects and vibration behaviours are studied under various load combinations of dynamic amplitude, mean load,frequency and number of cycles. Test results show that permanent settlement can generally be predicted with a quadratic function or power function of cycles.Sloping ground topography produces more pronounced settlement than level ground under the same load condition. For vibration behaviour,displacement amplitude is weakly affected by the number of cycles, while load amplitude significantly influences dynamic responses. Test results also reveal that increasing load amplitude intensifies nonlinearity and topography effects. The strain distribution in a pile and soil stress at the pile tip are displayed to investigate the vibration mechanism accounting for sloping ground effects. Furthermore, the dynamic characteristics among three kinds of topography in the elastic stage are studied using a three-dimensional finite method. Numerical results are validated by comparing with experimental results for base inclination topography. An inclined soil profile boundary causes non-axisymmetric resultant deformation, though a small difference in vertical displacement is observed. 相似文献
7.
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8.
Under suitable conditions of tidal current and wind, underwater topography can be detected by synthetic aperture radar (SAR)
indirectly. Underwater topography SAR imaging includes three physical processes: radar ocean surface backscattering, the modulation
of sea surface short wave spectrum by the variations in sea surface currents, and the modulation of sea surface currents by
the underwater topography. The first process is described usually by Bragg scattering theory because the incident angle of
SAR is always between 20°–70°. The second process is described by the action balance equation. The third process is described
by an ocean hydrodynamic model. Based on the SAR imaging mechanism for underwater topography, an underwater topography SAR
detection model and a simplified method for its calculation are introduced. In the detection model, a two-dimensional hydrodynamic
model — the shallow water model is used to describe the motion of tidal current. Due to the difficulty of determining the
expression of SAR backscattering cross section in which some terms can not be determined, the backscattering cross section
of SAR image used in the underwater topography SAR detection is pro-processed by the simulated SAR image of the coarse-grid
water depth to simplify the calculation. Taiwan Shoal, located at the southwest outlet of Taiwan Strait, is selected as an
evaluation area for this technique due to the occurrence of hundreds of sand waves. The underwater topography of Taiwan Shoal
was detected by two scenes of ERS-2 SAR images which were acquired on 9 January 2000 and 6 June 2004. The detection results
are compared with in situ measured water depths for three profiles. The average absolute and relative errors of the best detection
result are 2.23 m and 7.5 %, respectively. These show that the detection model and the simplified method introduced in the
paper is feasible. 相似文献
9.
Significant wave height is an important criterion in designing coastal and offshore structures. Based on the orthogonality
principle, the linear mean square estimation method is applied to calculate significant wave height in this paper. Twenty-eight-year
time series of wave data collected from three ocean buoys near San Francisco along the California coast are analyzed. It is
proved theoretically that the computation error will be reduced by using as many measured data as possible for the calculation
of significant wave height. Measured significant wave height at one buoy location is compared with the calculated value based
on the data from two other adjacent buoys. The results indicate that the linear mean square estimation method can be well
applied to the calculation and prediction of significant wave height in coastal regions. 相似文献
10.
《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2015,(5)
The beach studied in this paper spans a length of 51 km and is one of several long sandy beaches in the southern Bohai Strait. Due to the obstruction of islands in the northeast and the influence of the underwater topography, the wave environment in the offshore area is complex; beach types and sediment transport characteristics vary along different coasts. The coastlines extracted from six aerial photographs in different years were compared to demonstrate the evolving features. Seven typical beach profiles were selected to study the lateral beach variation characteristics. Continuous wind and wave observation data from Beihuangcheng ocean station during 2009 were employed for the hindcast of the local wave environment using a regional spectral wave model. Then the results of the wave hindcast were incorporated into the LITDRIFT model to compute the sediment transport rates and directions along the coasts and analyze the longshore sand movement. The results show that the coastline evolution of sand beaches in the southern Bohai Strait has spatial and temporal variations and the coast can be divided into four typical regions. Region(I), the north coast of Qimudao, is a slightly eroded and dissipative beach with a large sediment transport rate; Region(II), the southwest coast of Gangluan Port, is a slightly deposited and dissipative beach with moderate sediment transport rate; Region(III), in the central area, is a beach that is gradually transformed from a slightly eroded dissipative beach to a moderately or slightly strong eroded bar-trough beach from west to east with a relatively moderate sediment transport rate. Region(IV), on the east coast, is a strongly eroded and reflective beach with a weak sediment transport rate. The wave conditions exhibit an increasing trend from west to east in the offshore area. The distribution of the wave-induced current inside the wave breaking region and the littoral sediment transport in the nearshore region exhibit a gradual weakening tendency from west to east, which is opposite to the trend of the wave conditions outside the breaking region. The presence of submerged shoal(Dengzhou Shoal), deep trough(Dengzhou Channel), islands and irregular topography influnces the wave climate, beach types, wave-induced current features, littoral sediment transport trends and coastline evolution patterns in the southern Bohai Strait. Human activities, such as the sand exploitation of Dengzhou Shoal and other coastal engineering projects, also influence the beach morphology and coastline evolution. 相似文献
11.
The wave crest is an important factor for the design of both fixed and floating marine structures. Wave crest height is a
dominant parameter in assessing the likelihood of wave-in-deck impact and resultant severe damage. Many empirical and theoretical
distribution functions for wave crest heights have been proposed, but there is a lack of agreement between them. It is of
significance to develop a better new nonlinear wave crest height distribution model. The progress in the research of wave
crest heights is reviewed in this paper. Based on Stokes’ wave theory, an approximate nonlinear wave crest-height distribution
formula with simple parameters is derived. Two sets of measured data are presented and compared with various theoretical distributions
of wave crests obtained from nonlinear wave models and analysis of the comparison is given in detail. The new crest-height
distribution model agrees well with observations. Also, the new theoretical distribution is more accurate than the other methods
cited in this paper and has a greater range of applications. 相似文献
12.
基于线性波理论及Morison方法,推导建立了波-流共同作用下圆形深水网箱锚绳受力求解的理论模型。以湛江湾特呈岛深水网箱养殖基地为背景,分析了典型圆形重力网箱在特征波浪、海流作用下的浮架、网衣及锚绳的受力特性,并与现场实测的数据进行了比较。结果显示,理论计算结果能较好地与实测数据吻合。在本算例中,当网箱处于湾内时,海流是其主要的外部动力因素,随着网箱向湾外的发展,波浪力对锚绳力的贡献将显著增加;当波高超过2 m时,波浪力将成为主要的外部动力因素。该理论求解体系能方便有效地应用于工程中,为深水抗风浪网箱的受力分析及锚泊系统设计等问题提供积极的理论参考及初步的定量估计。 相似文献
13.
详细讨论了电磁波与地震波在介质中的传播规律.根据瞬变电磁测深(TEMS)中心回线装置观测成果与大地电磁测深(MTS)成果的一致性,提出了瞬变电磁资料拟地震解释的思路.大量理论模型的正、反演计算结果表明方法理论是正确的,野外实测资料处理结果进一步说明了该方法的实用性. 相似文献
14.
Wave group is important in ocean wave theory and applications. In the past, nonlinear interaction among wave groups has been
studied on the basis of the nonlinear Schr?dinger equation. Using this theoretical approach, we found that the nonlinear interaction
among wave groups causes asymmetry in the shape of the wave envelope (steeper in the front of the curve of the envelope).
An important consequence of this asymmetry is that the highest wave in a wave group appears one individual wave length ahead
of the center of the wave group. Further results show that the degree of envelope asymmetry increases with increasing spectral
width and the wave steepness. This theoretical analysis has been supplemented by a systematic experimental study of wind waves.
Laboratory and some open sea wave data were analyzed. The results show that the shape of the wind wave envelope of wind waves
has the same asymmetry predicted by the theoretical approach. The observed degree of deformation of the envelope also increases
with increasing spectral width and the wave steepness as predicted by theory. These conclusions have important ramifications
for practical applications of ocean wave theory. 相似文献
15.
Observation and analysis of ocean wave diffraction in near-shore and near-island region was performed with Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) data, using an optimized retrieval method named parameterized first-guess spectrum retrieval method. The results retrieved from ERS-SAR and ENVISAT-ASAR images showed that, in the region sheltered by land jut, the energy of long waves is reduced by 10%-20% and that the propagation direction of long waves is changed due to the effect of topography. In the shadow zone behind the island, ocean wave can propagate along the seashore instead of perpendicular to the coastline, as shown by SAR images. 相似文献
16.
吴德星 《中国海洋湖沼学报》1997,15(4):314-321
ImODUcnONThedeepequatorialoceanhasobvioussignilicantflowapparentlycarryinghacelsa1ongandacrosstheequator(WissCtal.,l985).RmtfloatmsurementSshoWedthattheflowishigh1yvariable(Richardsonetal.,l993).ThomPsonandKawase(l993)pro-posedthatthelargeinstantaneousandfloatvelocitiesasWellasthevariabilitysuggestthatthetracersignaIsreflCCtreCtificationoftimedependentmotionsandniinginsteadofrneanEulerianflow.TheresultSoftheirstudyonthegenerationofmeancurrentSbyperi-odicfordngintheequatorialoceaninasir… 相似文献
17.
Dike failure and marine losses are quite prominent in Laizhou Bay during the period of cold wave storm surges because of its open coastline to the north and flat topography. In order to evaluate the intensity of cold wave storm surge, the hindcast of marine elements induced by cold waves in Laizhou Bay from 1985 to 2004 is conducted using a cold wave storm surge–wave coupled model and the joint return period of extreme water level, concomitant wave height, and concomitant wind speed are calculated. A new criterion of cold wave storm surge intensity based on such studies is developed. Considering the frequency of cold wave, this paper introduces a Poisson trivariate compound reconstruction model to calculate the joint return period, which is closer to the reality. By using the newly defined cold wave storm surge intensity, the ‘cold wave grade' in meteorology can better describe the severity of cold wave storm surges and the warning level is well corresponding to different intensities of cold wave storm surges. Therefore, it provides a proper guidance to marine hydrological analysis, disaster prevention and marine structure design in Laizhou Bay. 相似文献
18.
The extraction of the weakly excited anti-symmetric Lamb wave from a submerged thin spherical shell backscattering is very difficult if the carrier frequency of the incident short tone burst is not at its frequency of greatest enhancement. Based on a single channel iterative time reversal technique, a method for isolating the subsonic anti-symmetric Lamb wave is proposed in this paper. The approach does not depend on the form function of a thin shell and any other priori knowledge, and it is also robust in the presence of some stochastic noise. Both theoretical and numerical results show that the subsonic anti-symmetric Lamb wave can be identified, even when the carrier frequency of the incident short tone burst is away from the frequency of greatest enhancement. The phenomenon may also be observed even in the case that the subsonic anti-symmetric Lamb wave is submerged in the noise, other than the case with the Signal to Noise Ratio being less than 10 dB, when the amplitude of the noise is comparable with the specular wave. In this paper, each iteration process contains a traditional transmission and time reversal transmission steps. The two steps can automatically compensate the time delay of the subsonic anti-symmetric Lamb wave relative to the specular wave and within-mode dispersion in the forward wave propagation. 相似文献
19.
Comparison of retrieving methods of ocean wave periods from satellite altimeter with buoy measurements 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
For validating the results of retrieved mean wave period, four empirical algorithms established previously are introduced. Based on the data of over five years derived from TOPEX satellite altimeter for the entire East China Sea, ocean wave periods were calculated and statistical comparison among them was performed. The retrieved mean wave period obtained with our new distribution parameters showed better agreement with the wave period TB measured by buoy than that calculated by other three algorithms. The difference between the mean values of and that of TB is 0.16 s and the RMSE (root mean square error) of is the lowest value (0.48). 相似文献
20.
以CCMP（Cross—Calibrated,Multi—Platfoml）风场为驱动场,分别驱动目前国际先进的第3代海浪模式ww3（WAVEWATCH—III）、SWAN（Simulating WAves Nearshore）,对2010年9月发生在东中国海的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,就台风浪的特征进行分析,并对比分析两个海浪模式的模拟效果。结果表明：1）以CCMP风场分别驱动WW3、SWAN海浪模式,可以较好地模拟发生在东中国海的台风浪,风向与波向保持了大体一致,波高与风速的分布特征保持了很好的一致性;2）综合相关系数、偏差、均方根误差、平均绝对误差来看,两个模式模拟的有效波高（SWH—Significant Wdve Height）都具有较高精度,SWAN模拟的SWH略低于观测值,WW3模拟的SWH与观测值更为接近;3）台风浪可给琉球群岛海域带来5m左右的大浪,台风浪进入东海后,波高、风速都有一定程度的增加,当台风沿西北路径穿越朝鲜半岛时,受到半岛地形的巨大影响,风速和波高都明显降低。 相似文献