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21.
Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward. 相似文献
22.
畸形波波形与其所处海况特征密切相关。在线性、窄谱假定下,最可能出现的畸形波波形服从“新波”理论,即最大波位于波群中间且其前后相邻波浪对称。然而,实际海浪谱通常是包含多种频率成分的宽谱。目前对实测畸形波及其附近波面形态特征仍缺乏系统认知,对其影响因素尚不明确。本文基于挪威海气象观测站共112个畸形波序列,分析实测畸形波波形及影响因素。研究表明,只有52%的畸形波在波群中间,其余畸形波在波群前侧的概率更高。此外,畸形波前后相邻波浪并不完全对称,其中位于后侧的波幅普遍更大。通过定量分析实测畸形波的平均波形与“新波”理论结果,发现谱宽是影响畸形波波形的关键参数。随谱宽增加,畸形波的平均波形与“新波”理论得到的波面序列误差呈指数增加。 相似文献
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Based on the linear shallow water equations, an analytic solution of trapped waves over a symmetric parabolic- profile submerged ridge is derived. The trapped waves act as propagating waves along the ridge and as standing waves across the ridge. The amplitude gets the maximum at the ridge top and decays gradually towards both sides. The decaying rate gets more gently with higher modes. Besides, an explicit first-order approximate dispersion relation is derived to simplify transcendental functions in the exact solution, which is useful to describe trapped waves over shallowly submerged ridges in reality. Furthermore, the trapping mechanism of the submerged ridge waveguides on the trans-oceanic tsunami propagation can be explained by the ray theory. A critical incident angle exists as a criterion to determine whether the wave is trapped. Besides, a trapped parameter γ is proposed to estimate the ratio of the energy trapped by the oceanic ridge if a tsunami is generated at its top. 相似文献
24.
Owing to the Benjamin-Feir instability,the Stokes wave train experiences a modulation-demodulation process,and presents a recurrence characteristics.Stiassnie and Shemer researched the unstable evolution process and provided a theoretical formulation for the recurrence period in 1985 on the basis of the nonlinear cubic Schr dinger equation(NLS).However,NLS has limitations on the narrow band and the weak nonlinearity.The recurrence period is re-investigated in this paper by using a highly efficient High Order Spectral(HOS) method,which can be applied for the direct phaseresolved simulation of the nonlinear wave train evolution.It is found that the Stiassnie and Shemer’s formula should be modified in the cases with most unstable initial conditions,which is important for such topics as the generation mechanisms of freak waves.A new recurrence period formula is presented and some new evolution characteristics of the Stokes wave train are also discussed in details. 相似文献
25.
海滩养护是砂质海岸最重要的自然防护手段之一,也是我国海岸带保护修复工程最重要的建设内容之一。围绕强波浪动力、弱波浪动力、强潮等不同条件下的养护海滩动力适应性与滩肩、沙坝等地貌稳定性及其模拟预测三个主要方面,总结近年来我国海滩养护基础理论和关键技术研究中的一些新认识和新思考,并提出亟需深入研究的重点内容。 相似文献
26.
Disintegration of linear edge waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
It is demonstrated that offshore wavenumbers of edge waves change from imaginary wavenumbers in deep water to real wavenumbers in shallow water. This finding indicates that edge waves in the offshore direction exist as evanescent waves in deep water and as propagating waves in shallow water. Since evanescent waves can stably exist in a limited region while propagating waves cannot, energy should be released from nearshore regions. In the present study, the instability region is predicted based on both the full water wave solution and the shallow-water wave approximation. 相似文献
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在一维显式、二维隐式水动力联网数学模型的基础上,建立了一种一维、二维全隐河网海湾水动力联网数学模型。该一维河网模型采用Preissmann四点隐式格式,用节点水位控制法进行数值计算,二维海湾模型采用改进型双向隐式(DSI)法进行数值求解。在河口一维、二维连接处,水力因子通过接口断面法传递,无需重叠一个一维河段来传递水力因子,避免了口门处二维网格需取较小尺度的问题。模型在珠江三角洲河网及横门、洪奇沥口门海域做了检验,验证结果表明,建立的河网海湾水动力联网数学模型是可行的,可以用于河网、河口治理工程的数值研究。 相似文献
29.
潮流界变动段的边滩与浅滩演变关联性强，同时受径潮流水动力、供沙来源及人类活动等多重影响，是航道治理与疏浚维护的重点河段。通过对三益桥河段1976—2017年期间河床冲淤、汊道分流比、三益桥边滩及浅滩演变过程的分析，明确三益桥边滩及浅滩演变的驱动机制。2012年以来三益桥边滩12.5 m水深以浅滩体体积为增大态势，大水年份边滩以淤积为主，设计航槽及深槽以冲刷为主，中水年份边滩淤积厚度小于深槽。上游五峰山弯道河势稳定，具有阻隔上游和畅洲河段河势、汊道分流比调整等传递作用，三益桥边滩淤涨（长）与上游和畅洲河段河势及汊道分流比调整的关系不显著，主要与流域来流流量大小及过程、上游河道冲刷供沙等相关。洪季三益桥上浅区碍航程度大于枯季，汛前中水流量（大通水文站流量介于26 000~34 000 m3/s之间）持续天数长的年份碍航程度大于大洪水年份同时期；因此，流量过程决定边滩与浅滩的冲淤分布，中水流量持续时间长短及供沙量大小决定三益桥边滩淤积量及浅滩碍航淤积量。 相似文献
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准噶尔盆地阜康凹陷侏罗系烃源岩特征与页岩气勘探潜力分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
页岩油气正在成为中国油气勘探的重要对象之一。准噶尔盆地是中国西部最大的叠合盆地之一,盆地中是否存在页岩油气是能否打开油气勘探新局面的关键问题。本文通过对比其最大的生烃凹陷(阜康凹陷)的侏罗系烃源岩特征与Barnett页岩,来评价准噶尔盆地页岩油气的勘探潜力。阜康凹陷侏罗系烃源岩与Barnett页岩有以下相似性:①烃源岩规模稍大。阜康凹陷侏罗系主要发育八道湾组、三工河组和西山窑组三套泥质烃源岩层,累计厚度(最大950m)大于Barnett页岩;②干酪根类型相当。阜康凹陷干酪根类型在纵向上表现出一定的差异,下部八道湾组以Ⅱ型—Ⅲ型为主,中上部以Ⅲ型为主。③有机质的丰度偏小,但是存在厚层的煤。阜康凹陷有机质丰度分布符合正态分布,主要分布在1.2%~2.5%,与Barnett页岩相比略微偏小。但是从页岩气的角度来看,阜康凹陷发育多层单层厚度5m的煤层,总厚度超过50m,最大单层厚度超过20m,弥补了泥岩丰度不足的缺憾;④烃源岩已经进入中—高成熟阶段。表征烃源岩成熟度的Ro=1.6%,与Barnett页岩相当。上述对比结果表明阜康凹陷具有生成页岩油气的潜力。在此基础上,本文试图通过生烃潜力法的残留烃量评价本区页岩油气的勘探潜力,评价结果表明残留烃的规模为874.6亿吨,展示出阜康凹陷良好的页岩油气勘探潜力。 相似文献