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61.
Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ~20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow. 相似文献
62.
Intertidal bars are common in mesotidal/macrotidal low-to-moderate energy coastal environments and an understanding of their morphodynamics is important from the perspective of both coastal scientists and managers. However, previous studies have typically been limited by considering bar systems two-dimensionally, or with very limited alongshore resolution. This article presents the first multi-annual study of intertidal alongshore bars and troughs in a macrotidal environment using airborne LiDAR (light detection and ranging) data to extract three-dimensional (3D) bar morphology at high resolution. Bar and trough positions are mapped along a 17.5 km stretch of coastline in the northwest of England on the eastern Irish Sea, using eight complete, and one partial, LiDAR surveys spanning 17 years. Typically, 3–4 bars are present, with significant obliquity identified in their orientation. This orientation mirrors the alignment of waves from the dominant south-westerly direction of wave approach, undergoing refraction as they approach the shoreline. Bars also become narrower and steeper as they migrate onshore, in a pattern reminiscent of wave shoaling. This suggests that the configuration of the bars is being influenced by overlying wave activity. Net onshore migration is present for the entire coastline, though rates vary alongshore, and periods of offshore migration may occur locally, with greatest variability between northern and southern regions of the coastline. This work highlights the need to consider intertidal bar systems as 3D, particularly on coastlines with complex configurations and bathymetry, as localized studies of bar migration can overlook 3D behaviour. Furthermore, the wider potential of LiDAR data in enabling high-resolution morphodynamic studies is clear, both within the coastal domain and beyond. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 相似文献
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An operational passive sonar is required to detect signals from sources, which are subject to spatial and temporal coherence losses via modifications by the ocean environment. Furthermore, these signals are to be detected in the presence of frequency-dependent correlated noise fields. For a system which employs splitbeam cross-correlation processing, the spatial and spectral properties of the signal and noise are of significant import. Therefore, the exact probability density and cumulative distribution functions of the N-sampled correlator outputs of a splitbeam broadband passive sonar are derived for the case of Gaussian inputs which are described by arbitrary cross-spectral density matrices. The validity of approximating the exact probability density function (pdf) as a Gaussian distribution is investigated. The effect of signal coherence loss and noise correlation on the detection performance is considered and the associated processing loss is expressed as a degradation factor within the detection threshold equation 相似文献
67.
Scott B. Miles 《Natural Hazards》2011,56(3):749-766
The study described in this paper investigates the relative merits of two peer-reviewed earthquake-induced landslide models
using participatory model assessment. The earthquake-induced landslide hazard models assessed are a simplified Newmark’s displacement
model and a recently developed knowledge-based model. Participatory model assessment involves conducting facilitated participatory
processes where the model(s) are used for aiding decisions within a socio-behavioral experiment designed for collecting data
to evaluate formal hypotheses about the model(s). The paper sets out the design of the participatory model assessment—a series
of workshops involving experts and potential model end-users that incorporated a roleplay site selection task. Quantitative
data elicited using a set of entrance and exit questionnaires were analyzed to investigate hypotheses about the models. Participants
found the knowledge-based model to be significantly more complete and more informative for their roleplay task. Overall, the
two models did not yield significant differences with respect to issues such as task efficiency or task outcome satisfaction.
Lastly, it was found that education level and disciplinary perspectives (of those analyzed) did not significantly affect outcomes,
suggesting that a wide demographic of participants can be used for participatory model assessments. Additional research is
needed to assess the models in different contexts, as well as more broadly developing a set of best practices for conducting
participatory model assessments of other natural hazard and risk models intended to support decision-making. 相似文献
68.
Melanie Shaw Miles J. Furnas Katharina Fabricius David Haynes Steve Carter Jochen F. Mueller 《Marine pollution bulletin》2010,60(1):113-122
Pesticide runoff from agriculture poses a threat to water quality in the world heritage listed Great Barrier Reef (GBR) and sensitive monitoring tools are needed to detect these pollutants. This study investigated the utility of passive samplers in this role through deployment during a wet and dry season at river mouths, two near-shore regions and an offshore region. The nearshore marine environment was shown to be contaminated with pesticides in both the dry and wet seasons (average water concentrations of 1.3-3.8 ng L−1 and 2.2-6.4 ng L−1, respectively), while no pesticides were detected further offshore. Continuous monitoring of two rivers over 13 months showed waters flowing to the GBR were contaminated with herbicides (diuron, atrazine, hexazinone) year round, with highest average concentrations present during summer (350 ng L−1). The use of passive samplers has enabled identification of insecticides in GBR waters which have not been reported in the literature previously. 相似文献
69.
Daily, cloud-free data interpolating empirical orthogonal function (DINEOF) reconstructions of sea-surface temperature (SST) and chlorophyll (Chl-a) satellite imagery are compiled into monthly mean images for a six-year period (2003–2008) and used to identify their spatial and temporal variability on the South Atlantic Bight. Monthly-mean SST has the highest variability on the inner-shelf, decreasing seaward approaching the more stable temperatures of the Gulf Stream (GS). Monthly-mean Chl-a concentrations are similarly highest on the inner shelf throughout the year and decrease cross-shelf toward the nutrient depleted open ocean. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analyses on SST and Chl-a show a clear seasonal cycle in their 1st mode of variability, with SST lagging behind Chl-a by approximately one month. The 1st EOF modes account for 95.8% and 46.4% variance of SST and Chl-a, respectively. Chl-a EOF mode 1 in particular shows a highly regionalized spatial pattern with values on the central SAB clearly out of phase with the southern and northern SAB. This regional difference is likely a result of shelf geometry and stratification, which modulate GS influence on the shelf. SST EOF mode 2 exhibits a seasonal cycle as well, which previous studies have shown to be a function of local wind. Chl-a EOF mode 2 is well correlated with the cumulative river transport onto the SAB, but accounts for a relatively small 10.8% of Chl-a variability. 相似文献
70.
Miles D. Lamare Michael P. Lesser Mike F. Barker Thomas M. Barry Kate B. Schimanski 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(5):775-793
We examined the response of four species of New Zealand marine algae (Ecklonia radiata, Apophlaea lyallii, Rhodymenia spp., Ulva lactuca) and a sea urchin (Evechinus chloroticus) to spatial variation in ultraviolet radiation (UV‐R) by examining the concentration of UV‐R absorbing compounds known as mycosporine‐like amino acids (MAAs). The purpose was to understand how, and the degree to which, local marine species could potentially respond to any future increases in incident UV‐R in the New Zealand marine environment. The research was undertaken in Doubtful Sound, where we observed a gradient of water column UV‐R transmission along the 40 km length of the fiord. We examined spatial differences in MAAs along the UV‐B gradient in the macrophytes and temporal changes in MAAs in sea urchin gonads. Among the algae, thallus MAA concentrations (nmol mg–1 protein) ranged from 12.5 to 87.8 in E. radiata, from 433.1 to 1446.4 in A. lyallii, 12.7 to 103.4 in Rhodymenia spp., but were not detected in U. lactuca. For E. chloroticus, gonadal MAA concentrations ranged from 83.9 to 224.3 nmol mg–1 protein spatially, and over the year from 1.85 to 14.12 nmol mg–1 dry weight (DW) depending on site and gametogenic cycle. Laboratory manipulations indicated that concentrations of MAAs in E. chloroticus gonads and eggs are influenced by diet. MAA concentration could be correlated with UV‐B intensities in two of the algal species. E. chloroticus MAA concentrations could also be correlated with UV‐B transmission, which we concluded was a reflection of the greater ingestion and accumulation of MAA‐rich macrophytes at those sites where higher ambient UV‐R induced greater MAA concentrations to occur in the algae. Given this, we suggest that one response of marine species to increases in UV‐B would be an increase in the synthesis and/or accumulation of MAAs for photoautotrophs and a dietary accumulation of those MAAs in E. chloroticus, an important herbivore in this system. 相似文献