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71.
72.
A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient. 相似文献
73.
Ching-Hui Tsai Shu-Kun Hsu Yi-Ching Yeh Chao-Shing Lee Kanyuan Xia 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2004,25(1-2):63-78
Magnetic data suggest that the distribution of the oceanic crust in the northern South China Sea (SCS) may extend to about 21 °N and 118.5 °E. To examine the crustal features of the corresponding continent–ocean transition zone, we have studied the crustal structures of the northern continental margin of the SCS. We have also performed gravity modeling by using a simple four-layer crustal model to understand the geometry of the Moho surface and the crustal thicknesses beneath this transition zone. In general, we can distinguish the crustal structures of the study area into the continental crust, the thinned continental crust, and the oceanic crust. However, some volcanic intrusions or extrusions exist. Our results indicate the existence of oceanic crust in the northernmost SCS as observed by magnetic data. Accordingly, we have moved the continent–ocean boundary (COB) in the northeastern SCS from about 19 °N and 119.5 °E to 21 °N and 118.5 °E. Morphologically, the new COB is located along the base of the continental slope. The southeastward thinning of the continental crust in the study area is prominent. The average value of crustal thinning factor of the thinned continental crust zone is about 1.3–1.5. In the study region, the Moho depths generally vary from ca. 28 km to ca. 12 km and the crustal thicknesses vary from ca. 24 km to ca. 6 km; a regional maximum exists around the Dongsha Island. Our gravity modeling has shown that the oceanic crust in the northern SCS is slightly thicker than normal oceanic crust. This situation could be ascribed to the post-spreading volcanism or underplating in this region. 相似文献
74.
75.
76.
Xu Shikai Wang Hongchuan Hong Guangwen
Engineer Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing .
Professor Research Institute of Coastal Ocean Engineering Hohai University Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)
To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples. 相似文献
77.
Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions. 相似文献
78.
Konstantin V. Lebedev Max Yaremchuk Humio Mitsudera Iwao Nakano Gang Yuan 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(6):751-763
A finite-difference quasigeostrophic (QG) model of an open ocean region has been employed to produce a dynamically constrained
synthesis of acoustic tomography and satellite altimetry data with in situ observations. The assimilation algorithm is based upon the 4D variational data interpolation scheme controlled by the model's
initial and boundary conditions. The data sets analyzed include direct and differential travel times measured at the array
of five acoustic transceivers deployed by JAMSTEC in the region of the Kuroshio Extension in 1997, Topex/Poseidon altimetry,
CTD soundings, and ADCP velocity profiles. The region monitored is located within the area 27.5°–36.5°N, 143°–155°. The results
of assimilation show that mesoscale variability can be effectively reconstructed by five transceivers measuring direct and
reciprocal travel times supported by relatively sparse in situ measurements. The misfits between model and data lie within the observational error bars for all the data types used in assimilation.
We have compared the results of assimilation with the statistical inversion of travel time data and analyzed energy balances
of the optimized model solution. Energy exchange between the depth-averaged and shear components of the observed currents
reveals a weak decay of the barotropic mode at the rate of 0.2 ± 0.7⋅10−5 cm2/s3 due to topographic interaction. Mean currents in the region are unstable with an estimate of the available potential energy
flux from the mean current to the eddies of 4.7 ± 2.3⋅10−5 cm2/s3. Kinetic energy transition has the same sign and is estimated as 2.8 ± 2.5⋅10−5 cm2/s3. Potential enstrophy is transferred to the mesoscale at a rate of 5.5 ± 2.7⋅10−18 s−3. These figures provide observational evidence of the properties of free geostrophic turbulence which were predicted by theory
and observed in numerical experiments.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
79.
根据作者导得的AfKdV方程,理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻,能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时,本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题,从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。 相似文献
80.
Abstract. A component analysis of the sugar and lipid fraction in foam layers around kelp beds on the South African west coast showed the following trends: In the residue of foam drainage of both 12 h and 120 h old foam the sugar fraction is represented by mannose (33–41 %), galactose (4–30%), fucose (3–29%) and glucose (19–26%). With the exception of fucose, the same components could be found in foam filtration. In the lipid fraction the main fatty acids are palmitic (23.3–27.3%), oleic (14.0–5.5%) and timnodonic acid (11.2–9.1%). Selacholeinic acid was only found in 12 h old foam while lignoceric acid could not be located in foam filtration. Against expectation mannitol was not identified in quantifiable amounts in foam samples although it is the dominant component of kelp mucilage, whose presence is of major importance for foam formation. Hypotheses explaining the lack of mannitol are forwarded. Component sugar and lipid content for 11 of foam was calculated and estimation of sugar and lipid content in an average foam patch (volume of 30001) is given. The importance of foam formation as a mechanism for binding and transfer of energy in the marine environment is emphasized. 相似文献