Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes     

CHOU Chung-Ren OUYANG Kwan Professor 《中国海洋工程》1999,(4)

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.  相似文献   

Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes     

李玉成  崔丽芳  于洋  滕斌 《中国海洋工程》1999,(4)

Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.  相似文献   

Multiple-Step Predictive Control for Offshore Structures   总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13  

李华军  Sau-Lon JAMES HU 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)

—Ocean wave propagation is slow,visible and measurable,so a wave theory can be used to approxi-mately predict the imminnent wave force on an offshore structure based on measured,real-time wave elevation nearthe structure.This predictability suggests the development of a more efficient algorithm,than those that have beendeveloped for structures under wind and seismic loads,for the active vibration control of offshore structures.Thepresent study delveops a mutiple-step predictive optimal control(MPOC)algorithm that accounts for multiple-step external loading in the determibation of optimal control forces.The control efficiency of the newly developedMPOC algorithm has been investigated under both regular(single-frequency)and irregular(multiple-frequency)wave loads,and compared with that of two other well-known optimal control algorithms:classical linear optimalcontrol(CLOC)and instantaneou optimal control(IOC).  相似文献   

A Study on the Distribution of Wave Phases     

John Z. YIM  Jaw-Guei LIN Associate Professor 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)

Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution.  相似文献   

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect   总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6  

LI Ruijie  WANG Houjie Dr.  Associate Professor  Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao  Qingdao  P. R. China Ph. D. Candidate  Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao  Qingdao  P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.  相似文献   

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water   总被引：7，自引：2，他引：5  

LI Ruijie  WANG Houjie Associate Professor  Ocean University of Qingdao  Qingdao  P. R. China. Graduate Student  Ocean University of Qingdao  Qingdao  P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(1)

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.  相似文献   

星载合成孔径雷达海浪图像谱仿真研究   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

杨劲松  黄韦艮 《海洋学研究》1999,17(4):39-46

利用Hasselm ann 的完全非线性积分方法对文氏海浪谱的星载合成孔径雷达(SAR)图像谱进行了仿真研究。结果表明: (1) 在星载SAR海浪成像过程中, 速度聚束调制远比水动力调制、倾斜调制和距离向聚束调制重要;(2) 图像谱有180°的方向模糊和方位向的高波数截断,距离向传播海浪的图像谱存在双峰现象; (3) 不同极化方式和雷达视向的选取对图像谱无明显影响, 因而对于海浪的星载SAR遥感而言, 可以采用单一极化和单一视向。对于不同成长状态的风浪而言, 以上结果保持不变。  相似文献   

水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

王亮  李瑞杰 《海岸工程》1999,18(3):1-4

采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。  相似文献   

从正反两个角度探讨摆式波力电站的吸能机制     

李继刚  李殿森 《海洋技术学报》1999,18(1):55-59

本文主要论述了摆式波力电站的吸能机制,提出了吸能原理,从力和作功的角度探讨了吸能的实质,分析比较了几种摆板运动方程形式之间的联系和区别。给出了波能转换效率的定义,并进一步分析了波能转换效率的组成和性质。  相似文献   

Boussinesq方程波浪数学模型的应用   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

陈阳  严以新 《海洋工程》1999,17(4)

介绍了Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ 方程的推导过程和发展过程,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系,建立了Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的波浪数学模型。该模型可以产生波浪,模拟吸收边界和不同反射率的反射边界。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射  相似文献