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1.
Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gende slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of time-stepping integration are detertnined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occu 相似文献
2.
More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
3.
Studies of the breaking criteria for solitary waves on a slope are presented in this paper. The boundary element method is used to model the processes of shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on various slopes. Empirical formulae that can be used to characterize the breaking of solitary waves are presented. These include the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the point of breaking. Comparisons with the results of other researches are given. 相似文献
4.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92
The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For
short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes
of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the
angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in
both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest
and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves.
For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when
they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles
(centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking
waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation. 相似文献
5.
LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
6.
The equations of Hedges [Hedges, T.S., 2009. Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux, Coastal Eng.], although yielding similar wavelengths, are not consistent with the fact that the horizontal water particle velocity in the wave crest should equal the wave celerity at breaking over a nearly horizontal bottom. 相似文献
7.
Based on the Hamiltonian formulation of water waves, using Hamiltonian consistent modelling methods, we derive higher order Hamiltonian equations by Taylor expansions of the potential and the vertical velocity around the still water level. The polynomial expansion in wave height is mixed with pseudo-differential operators that preserve the exact dispersion relation. The consistent approximate equations have inherited the Hamiltonian structure and give exact conservation of the approximate energy. In order to deal with breaking waves, we extend the eddy-viscosity model of Kennedy et al. (2000) to be applicable for fully dispersive equations. As breaking trigger mechanism we use a kinematic criterion based on the quotient of horizontal fluid velocity at the crest and the crest speed. The performance is illustrated by comparing simulations with experimental data for an irregular breaking wave with a peak period of 12 s above deep water and for a bathymetry induced periodic wave plunging breaker over a trapezoidal bar. The comparisons show that the higher order models perform quite well; the extension with the breaking wave mechanism improves the simulations significantly. 相似文献
8.
This paper presents new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach. The measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height. The properties of shoreline motion, underwater particle velocity and scale effect on run-up height are briefly discussed. Based on our analyses, it is evidently found that there exist five zones during a wave amplitude evolution course on the present mild slope. A simple formula which is capable of predicting maximum run-up height for a breaking solitary wave on a uniform beach with a wide range of beach slope (1:15–1:60) is also proposed. The calculated results from the present model agree favorably with available laboratory data, indicating that our method is compatible with other predictive models. 相似文献
9.
利用一维Boussinesq方程描述了在浅水中的波浪运动以及破碎情况。在方程中引入了表面翻滚的概念，认为翻滚的水体是以波速运动的，翻滚的作用表现在水平速度的垂直分布上，产生了附加迁移动量项。通过对Airy波在浅水中运动以及破碎情况的研究，得出的一些结论与Schaeffer和合田的成果吻合良好。 相似文献
10.
In this article, tsunamis represented as solitary waves was simulated using the fully nonlinear free surface waves based on Finite Element method developed by Sriram et al. (2006). The split up of solitary wave while it propagates over the uneven bottom topography is successfully established. Wave transmission and reflection over a vertical step introduced in the bottom topography is in good agreement with the experimental results from Seabra-Santos et al. (1987). The wave transformation over a continental shelf with different smooth slopes reveals that the solitary wave reflection increases while the continental slope varies from flat to steep. The interaction of the solitary wave with a vertical wall for different wave steepness has been analysed. The reflected shape of the profile is in good agreement with the observation made by Fenton and Rienecker (1982) and an increase in wave celerity is observed. 相似文献
11.
Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Inside the surf zone the vertical variation of the horizontal velocity profile is assumed to be composed of an (initially unknown) organised velocity component below the roller and a surface roller travelling with the wave celerity. This leads to a new set of equations which is capable of simulating the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking. The model is calibrated and verified by comparison with several wave flume measurements. The results show that the model produces sound physical results. 相似文献
12.
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
13.
Yoshiaki Toba Masayuki Tokuda Kuniaki Okuda Sanshiro Kawai 《Journal of Oceanography》1975,31(5):192-198
Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves. 相似文献
14.
为研究内孤立波的地形和背景流共振机制,用地形和背景流共振机制计算了3个潜标观测的内孤立波(不同模态、不同波长)的流速和传播速度,并与观测到的内孤立波进行比较。潜标观测的第一模态内孤立波(波长分别为6.4和3.3km)都是下凹型内孤立波,2个内孤立波的传播速度约为1.4m/s、最大振幅约为48m,水平流向结构都是上层西北向、下层东南向,波长3.3km 的内孤立波波峰前后有更明显的下降流和上升流。用共振机制计算出的第一模态和第二模态纬向流速的垂向结构与观测相同,最大纬向流速出现的深度与观测一致,分别相差5和12m。用共振机制计算出的内孤立波传播速度与用 KdV 方程计算的传播速度相当,共振机制计算波速为0.66~1.21m/s,KdV 方程计算波速为0.79~1.40m/s。 相似文献
15.
群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。 相似文献
16.
The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave–wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced. 相似文献
17.
Unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and Navier-Stokes type model equations for porous flow were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of water waves over a permeable rippled bed. A boundary-fitted coordinate system was adopted to make the computational meshes consistent with the rippled bed. The accuracy of the numerical scheme was confirmed by comparing the numerical results concerning the spatial distribution of wave amplitudes over impermeable and permeable rippled beds with the analytical solutions. For periodic incident waves, the flow field over the wavy wall is discussed in terms of the steady Eulerian streaming velocity. The trajectories of the fluid particles that are initially located close to the ripples were also determined. One of the main results herein is that under the action of periodic water waves, fluid particles on an impermeable rippled bed initially moved back and forth around the ripple crest, with increasing vertical distance from the rippled wall. After one or two wave periods, they are then lifted towards the next ripple crest. All of the marked particles on a permeable rippled bed were shifted onshore with a much larger displacement than those on an impermeable bed. Finally, the flow fields and the particle motions close to impermeable and permeable beds induced by a solitary wave are elucidated. 相似文献
18.
基于实验室水槽实验,研究了内孤立波在海底山脊地形存在下的破碎过程。实验设置了两层流体的分层环境,定量地控制了上下层水体厚度及密度,使用不同高度的高斯地形模拟实际的海山作用,讨论了不同高度地形作用下内孤立波破碎过程的异同。实验结果表明,内孤立波的破碎过程中由于逆压梯度的存在,在地形处发生边界层分离,产生了底边界层反向射流和涡脱落现象,计算了内孤立波破碎过程中产生的底部切应力的分布。本文通过实验模拟了内孤立波再海山作用下的破碎过程,进一步探究了海山对内孤立波破碎的影响和底部切应力的作用,对于研究自然界中海洋内孤立波在海山区域的破碎现象有参考价值。 相似文献
19.
微尺度滑动平均方法计算海浪谱奇阶矩的公式 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Glazman提出了一种计算海浪谱高阶谱矩的微尺度平均方法,但是,他利用随机过程理论导出的计算偶阶矩的公式和参照偶阶矩结论定义的奇阶矩计算公式之间存在着内在的不一致性.本文在Glazman工作的基础上根据随机过程理论推导了“微尺度平均方法”计算奇阶谱矩的公式,纠正了他的错误.上述结论随即应用于讨论破碎对波面水质点水平速度分布的影响.通过破碎的加速度判据考虑了破碎对速度分布的限制,给出了未破碎波面上水质点水平速度的的统计分布的初步结果.该分布取决于谱宽度参数及白浪覆盖率的大小,当白浪覆盖率较大时明显偏离正态分布. 相似文献
20.
内孤立波具有振幅尺度大、能量集中的特点,其引起流场和密度场的迅速变化可能对海洋工程结构物以及水下潜体造成严重威胁。因此研究不同造波条件下生成的内孤立波运动的流场特征具有重要的学术意义和实际应用价值。采用直接数值模拟方法和给定的初始密度场密度跃迁函数,对重力塌陷激发内孤立波的运动过程进行研究,探讨了不同造波条件下,激发产生的内孤立波波型、涡度、振幅和水平速度等流场特征。结果表明:(1)直接模拟数值方法能够模拟内孤立波传播过程中的密度界面波型反转现象;(2)从定性和定量的角度,证实了不稳定内孤立波传播过程中存在能量的向后传递;(3)对于相同的台阶深度(水闸两侧初始密度界面的高度差),初始涡流保持相同,但是随着上下层水深比的减小,其强度下降显著;(4)台阶深度对初始涡流的垂直结构的影响要大于上下层水深比,且台阶深度对内孤立波的振幅、水平速度的影响显著。 相似文献