长江口崇明东滩及相邻区域地形演化与驱动因素分析     

郭兴杰  严学新  王寒梅  沙伟  秦渭华  唐迎洲  徐健 《海洋学报》2020,42(5):95-103

河口大型滩涂演化关系到航运通畅、生态保护以及近岸工程的安全性，是地貌学和工程界关注的热点。利用单波束测深系统对长江口崇明东滩进行高精度监测，并结合近年来周围环境因素分析其冲淤格局。结果表明:(1) 2011?2017年间崇明东滩和北港北沙基本以淤积为主，北港北汊河槽中央局部形成?2 m心滩，?5 m等深线包络面积基本稳定，整体呈“长高不长大”的格局；(2)海洋来沙是其淤积的主要物源，汊道涨落潮时空分异而形成的两大环流是塑造此地形的主要原因；崇明东滩和北港北沙的淤积直接挤压北港北汊的发展，沙体淤积可能会引起未来两大沙体的并靠；(3)崇明东滩、北支南沿的滩涂整治工程是促进北支萎缩和崇明东滩淤积的重要因素，另外横沙通道落潮分流增加,青草沙围水工程改变了北港河槽的曲率，也有利于北港北沙的淤积。  相似文献   

Chalk shore platform erosion in the vicinity of sea defence structures and the impact of construction methods     

Uwe Dornbusch  David A. Robinson  Rendel B.G. Williams  Cherith A. Moses 《Coastal Engineering》2007

Erosion of the intertidal chalk platform in the vicinity of groynes and seawalls is evident to the naked eye along many stretches of the engineered coastline of southeast England, leading to undermining and eventually failure of these structures. However, quantification of the magnitude and spatial extent of the erosion has been difficult to date because of a lack of data about the past elevation of the platform. The application of softcopy photogrammetry makes it possible to recreate past platform elevations from historic air photographs and to compare these with elevations from modern air photographs. Coastal sea defence structures have been installed along the chalk coast east of Brighton at various dates over the past 70 years. During this period, the construction methods have changed from predominantly manual labour to a reliance on heavy machines. The analysis of erosion patterns around structures built since the 1970s using heavy machinery show that surface lowering is 4 to 25 times greater in the vicinity of these structures than across the platform as a whole. In contrast, there is no similar pattern of increased erosion around structures built using predominantly manual labour in the 1930s. A four fold increase in average surface lowering is found also along a vehicle trackway that crosses the mid platform. Depressions developed by enhanced lowering in the front of seawalls generate their own dynamic of increased erosion by trapping pebbles and cobbles that enhance the abrasion of the chalk through bedload transport under standing waves in front of the walls.  相似文献   

Bathymetry of the Tonga Trench and Forearc: a map series   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Wright  Dawn J.  Bloomer  Sherman H.  MacLeod  Christopher J.  Taylor  Brian  Goodlife  Andrew M. 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2000,21(5):489-512

Four new bathymetric maps of the Tonga Trench and forearc between 14 °S and 27 °S display the important morphologic and structural features of this dynamic convergent margin. The maps document a number of important geologic features of the margin. Major normal faults and fault lineaments on the Tonga platform can be traced along and across the upper trench slope. Numerous submarine canyons incised in the landward slope of the trench mark the pathways of sediment transport from the platform to mid- and lower-slope basins. Discontinuities in the trench axis and changes in the morphology of the landward slope can be clearly documented and may be associated with the passage and subduction of the Louisville Ridge and other structures on the subducting Pacific Plate. Changes in the morphology of the forearc as convergence changes from normal in the south to highly-oblique in the north are clearly documented. The bathymetric compilations, gridded at 500- and 200-m resolutions and extending along 500 km of the landward trench slope and axis, provide complete coverage of the outer forearc from the latitude of the Louisville Ridge-Tonga Trench collision to the northern terminus of the Tonga Ridge. These maps should serve as a valuable reference for other sea-going programs in the region, particularly the Ocean Drilling Program (ODP) and the National Science Foundation MARGINS initiative.  相似文献   

A semi-analytical solution for random wave-induced soil response and seabed liquefaction in marine sediments     

Haijiang Liu  Dong-Sheng Jeng   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(8-9):1211-1224

In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work.  相似文献   

中国砂质海岸分布特征与存在问题   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

李震  雷怀彦 《海洋地质前沿》2006,22(6):1-4

中国东部砂质海岸分布范围广泛,地形发育多样,风沙灾害、海岸侵蚀等地质灾害问题多发,严重影响了沿海地区的社会经济发展。了解沙质海岸的分布特征,做好砂质海岸的研究防护工作,对促进海洋经济持续稳定的发展有着十分重要的作用。  相似文献   

黄河三角洲清水沟流路叶瓣体演化     

邓声贵  李广雪  杨荣民 《海洋科学》2006,30(12):32-36

根据历年卫星遥感资料和水深资料,对黄河三角洲清水沟流路叶瓣体演化和海底冲淤演化进行研究。结果表明,清水沟流路形成初期河口三角洲快速堆积,淤积中心厚度14m,1984年后河口三角洲淤积速度变缓,河口沙咀在波浪、潮流及科氏力作用下变得细长,并逐渐南偏,莱州湾内出现大面积的淤积,1996年黄河口人工改道后,在新河口处形成淤积中心,厚度4.5m。废弃三角洲遭受冲刷,原淤积中心成为冲刷中心。  相似文献   

辽东湾绥中海岸侵蚀研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

王玉广  张宪文  贾凯  王权明 《海岸工程》2007,26(1):1-5

通过不同时期海图对比、分析遥感图像和多年现场监测资料,分析了辽东湾绥中沙质海岸侵蚀的特点,认为海岸组成物质松散与海岸动力作用强烈是本区现代海岸侵蚀的基本条件;陆源物质入海量减少、海动力作用、沿岸工程建筑和海上采砂是其海岸蚀退的主要影响因素。  相似文献   

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Wu Guiqiu Li Wei Professor  First Institute of Oceanography  State Oceanic Administration  Qingdao Associate Researcher 《中国海洋工程》1994,(2)

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.  相似文献   

The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA     

Gregory W. Stone  Baozhu Liu  David A. Pepper  Ping Wang 《Marine Geology》2004,210(1-4):63-78

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.  相似文献   

Channelled erosion through a marine dump site of dredge spoils at the mouth of the Puyallup River, Washington State, USA     

Neil C. Mitchell   《Marine Geology》2005,220(1-4):131-151

Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms.  相似文献