Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater     

D. -S. Hur  N. Kawashima  K. Iwata 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1923-1940

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.  相似文献   

长江口枯季悬沙粒度与浓度之间的关系   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

王爱军  汪亚平  高抒  潘少明 《海洋科学进展》2005,23(2):159-167

2003和2004年枯季在长江口采集水样并作水文观测，对所获水样进行过滤和粒度分析，以计算悬沙浓度和悬沙粒度分布。结果表明，2003年11月小潮期间，悬沙中值粒径与悬沙浓度存在着显著的指数关系，在大潮期间没有显著关系；在2004年2月小湖期间，两者之间没有显著关系，但在大潮期间存在着显著的指数关系。枯季水体悬沙以粉砂组份为主，并且随着向口外的推移，细颗粒组份逐渐增加，但在拦门沙最大浑浊带附近，由于絮凝作用，沉积物粒度变幅较大，可产生粒径粗化的现象。小潮期间，砂含量较低，但与悬沙浓度之间有显著相关关系；大潮期间，悬沙粒径粗化，但砂含量与悬沙浓度之间的关系不显著。上述分布趋势与沉积物来源、当地的水动力条件和絮凝作用等因素有密切关系。  相似文献   

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection     

Arved J. Raudkivi  Hans-H. Dette   《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(3-4)

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.  相似文献   

东海陆架前缘斜坡北部的滑塌带   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

李成钢  范奉鑫  阎军 《海洋科学》2007,31(5):90-92

从1994年对东海陆架前缘斜坡北部实测的8条浅地层记录中,我们发现这些测线上都有滑塌构造,并形成了一条平行于陆架转折线的滑塌带,滑塌带呈NNE向展布,平均宽约7.5km,它们是沉积物流从陆坡上部向下移动的证据。  相似文献   

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models     

J. Nicholson  I. Broker  J. A. Roelvink  D. Price  J. M. Tanguy  L. Moreno 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.  相似文献   

厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的生态   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

郑凤武  吴启泉 《台湾海峡》1997,16(1):85-89

本文根据１９８７年２、５、８、１１月调查资料，研究了厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的种类组成、种类与数量的垂直分布、季节变化，并与大亚湾多毛类生态进行比较。结果表明，调查区域有多毛类４７种。平均栖息密度６０个／ｍ＾２，平均生物量１．７８ｇ／ｍ＾２，潮汐作用影响多毛类的种数、密度、生物量的垂直分布。多毛类数量的季节变化不甚明显，但冬季的栖息密度和春季的生物量较高。  相似文献   

琼州海峡岸礁潮间带生物   总被引：14，自引：0，他引：14  

王丽荣  陈锐球  赵焕庭 《台湾海峡》2003,22(3):286-294

本文记录了2000年7月琼州海峡西口雷州半岛灯楼角珊瑚岸礁调查采集的25种造礁石珊瑚，以及栖息于湖间带的7类39科88种底栖生物，其大多数种类属于印度-西太平洋热带区系。优势类群是软体动物和节肢动物。珊瑚礁段底栖生物的平均生物量、栖息密度和多样性值分别为1173．30g／m^2，790．0个／m^2和5．69，由于造礁石珊瑚的存在为其他底栖生物提供了良好的生态环境，从而丰富了本区底栖生物的种类组成、数量、分布和群落结构。  相似文献   

南麂列岛潮间带的微小型底栖藻类   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

朱根海  陈国通 《海洋学研究》1994,12(2):16-28

本文首次记录南麂列岛国家级海洋自然保护区潮间带的微小型底牺藻类。经初步鉴定南麂列岛潮间带共有微小型底栖藻类４门５４属１５５种，以硅藻类占优势（４１属１２５种）。其优势种在岩礁为附生性的海生斑条藻，沙滩为附生性的小形舟形藻和翼茧形藻，泥滩为底栖性的圆筛藻和斜纹藻。不同生境其种类组成差异显著，在各生境均出现的共有种仅６种。微小型底栖藻类年平均丰度：岩礁为７０９４．６１个／ｇ，沙滩为４６８２１．６３个／ｇ，泥滩为４５６．５个／ｇ，岩礁和沙滩以春季最高；泥滩以夏季最高；秋、冬季各生境的丰度均较低。  相似文献   

厦门港岩石岸潮间带软体动物的生态   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2  

李复雪  蔡立哲 《台湾海峡》1994,13(1):43-51

本文根据１９８２年２月至１９８３年２月在厦门港岩石岩潮间带采集的软体动物，论述了其种类组成，数量分布，生活型及影响软件动物分布的主要环境因子，厦门港岩石岸潮间带共发现软动物５４种。其中，多板类６种，腹足类３３种，双壳类１５种，优势种有僧帽牡蛎，黑荞麦蛤，复瓦小蛇螺，粗糙滨螺等。与６０年代初调查结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岸潮间带的软体动物群落是相对稳定的，潮汐是决定河口结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岩潮间带  相似文献   

The recreational fishery off Majorca Island (western Mediterranean): some implications for coastal resource management   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Morales-Nin  Beatriz; Moranta  Joan; Garcia  Cristina; Tugores  Maria Pilar; Grau  Antoni Maria; Riera  Francisco; Cerda  Margalida 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2005,62(4):727-739

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