Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

海洋环流模式中不同近似假设下的海表高度   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

李薇  张学洪  金向泽 《海洋科学进展》2003,21(2):132-141

Boussinesq近似是现代海洋环流模式中经常采用的假设，但随着海洋模式的不断发展完善以及气候研究应用的需要，有必要估算Boussinesq近似造成的模式误差。分别利用一个非Boussinesq近似的海洋模式与另一个结构相同且采用Boussinesq近似的模式计算海表高度，并同时利用模式预报的温度、盐度资料计算了比容异常高度。分析结果显示，这3种不同定义的海表高度无论空间结构，还是时间演变，都基本类似，尤其在热带海区最接近，差值≤1cm。Boussinesq近似意味着在模式中以体积守恒代替质量守恒，通常的做法是对其进行简单的质量补偿来保持质量守恒。比较说明，以质量补偿方法进行的高度订正对减小Boussinesq近似带来的误差没有本质的意义。  相似文献   

螺旋藻多糖对给予环磷酰胺BALB/C小鼠的保护作用研究   总被引：7，自引：1，他引：7  

王友顺  黎露刚  吴侃  谢宗华  唐庆  倪金星  汪庭  方光如 《海洋科学》1997,21(6):36-39

研究了螺旋藻多糖（ＰＳ）对环磷酰胺（ＣＹ）引起的ＢＡＬＢ／Ｃ小鼠造血功能等损伤的保护作用。当给小鼠ＣＹ时能同时给予ＰＳ时，就能大大减轻因给予ＣＹ经起的造血功能障碍；能明显减缓动物因使用ＣＹ的致的体重下降以及能明显减低因ＣＹ作用的死亡率，提示使用ＰＳ对预防或减轻化疗制剂的危害是具有明显作用的。为临床化疗、放疗病人使用ＰＳ提供了依据。  相似文献   

Stokes波的谱特性分析     

马汝建  李桂喜 《海洋工程》2001,19(4):52-57

应用理论推导及数值计算方法，对Stokes随机波的谱特性进行了分析。首先将波面方程，海水质点水平速度用一阶波面分量的非线性组合表示，应用平稳随机高阶短的降阶计算法则，得到了波面方程及海水质点水平速度与一阶波面分量的自相关函数之间的关系，从而确定了Stokes随机波浪的波浪谱密度及海水质点水平速度和加速度谱密度，进而求得有关波浪要素的均方根值。文章还应有数值计算方法，分析了波浪基本参数对均方根值的影响。  相似文献   

水库鱼产力评价标准与模式的研究   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5       下载免费PDF全文

焦念志  李德尚 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(1):79-86

本文在总结国内外已有成果的基础上,运用专家系统和灰色统计方法,初步建立了一套水库鱼产力评价的指标体系、指标权重体系和指标标准体系,首次给出了比较系统和具有普适意义的评价方案;并运用模糊数学方法建立了综合定量评价模式,从而在很大程度上解决了以往评价中由于多指标重迭、交错造成的难判、误判问题,为水库渔业资源的合理开发利用提供了比较科学的依据。  相似文献   

分形分析方法在海冰趋势预测中的应用   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

高振会  杨建强  费立淑 《海洋通报》2003,22(4):66-69

根据渤海北部1966——2001海冰冰级年际变化的实际资料，利用R／S分析的原理和方法计算了H指数，建立了R(i)/S(i)与i的关系式，对渤海北部海冰趋势进行了预测分析。结果表明，利用分形分析方法进行海冰趋势预测不仅方法简便，而且结论具有客观性，可以将其作为海冰趋势预测中较为有效的一种方法。  相似文献   

引入差比关系法分析西北太平洋TOPEX/POSEIDON卫星高度计测高数据   总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7  

刘克修  马继瑞  韩桂军  范振华  许崇金 《海洋学报》2002,24(4):1-10

TOPEX/POSEIDON(T/P)卫星高度计数据信息中存在周期成分混淆问题.对其中的一类混淆引入差比关系方法对混淆的分潮进行分离.卫星轨道交叉点资料包括升轨和降轨资料,资料量比沿轨点资料多1倍,经分析发现:在已有为期6a多的观测资料时间序列中,在沿轨处混淆的分潮如K₁和SSA在交叉点处不再混淆,可以直接分离.因此首先对交叉点资料进行调和分析.然后由交叉点的分析结果得到分潮间的差比关系,处理到相近的沿轨点处,从而得到沿轨点的调和常数.用引入差比关系方法,对西北太平洋海区6a多的T/P卫星高度计资料进行了潮汐分析,并与沿岸及岛屿验潮站资料进行了比较,所得结果较满意.  相似文献   

The Formation and Circulation of the Intermediate Water in the Japan Sea   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Jong-Hwan Yoon  Hideyuki Kawamura 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):197-211

In order to clarify the formation and circulation of the Japan/East Sea Intermediate Water (JESIW) and the Upper portion of the Japan Sea Proper Water (UJSPW), numerical experiments have been carried out using a 3-D ocean circulation model. The UJSPW is formed in the region southeast off Vladivostok between 41°N and 42°N west of 136°E. Taking the coastal orography near Vladivostok into account, the formation of the UJSPW results from the deep water convection in winter which is generated by the orchestration of fresh water supplied from the Amur River and saline water from the Tsushima Warm Current under very cold conditions. The UJSPW formed is advected by the current at depth near the bottom of the convection and penetrates into the layer below the JESIW. The origin of the JESIW is the low salinity coastal water along the Russian coast originated by the fresh water from the Amur River. The coastal low salinity water is advected by the current system in the northwestern Japan Sea and penetrates into the subsurface below the Tsushima Warm Current region forming a subsurface salinity minimum layer. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

Sea surface height anomaly and geostrophic circulation variations in the South China Sea from TOPEX/POSEIDON altimetry     

Liu Kexiu  Ma Jirui  Xu Jianping  Han Guijun  Fan Zhenhua 《海洋学报(英文版)》2002,21(3):345-354

The sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) and geostrophic circulation in the South ChinaSea (SCS) are studied using TOPEX/POSE1DON (T/P) altimetry data. The SSHA, which is obtained after tidal correction based on the tidal results from T/P data, is predominated by seasonal alternating monsoons. The results reveal that the SSHA in the central part of the SCS is positive in spring and summer, but negative in autumn and winter. It is also found that the SSHA in the SCS can be approached with the sum of tidal constituents SA and SSA. The geostrophic circulations in the SCS are calculated according to sea surface dynamic topography, which is the sum of SSHA and mean sea surface height. It is suggested that the circulation in the upper layer of the SCS is generally cyclonic and notably western intensified during autumn and winter, while the western intensification is weak during spring and summer. It is also indicated that the Kuroshio intrudes into the northeastern SCS throuth the Luzon Strait in winter. But ther  相似文献   

关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

李孟国  王正林  蒋德才 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(3):345-354

对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用  相似文献