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111.
The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup. 相似文献
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南沙群岛海域表层沉积物中磷的形态分布特征 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
根据2002年56月南沙群岛海域调查时采集的表层沉积物样品,分析了磷的含量并把磷分为总磷(PT)、无机磷(PIN)、有机磷(POR)、非磷灰石结合态磷(PNAI)、磷灰石结合态磷(PAI)5种赋存形态。利用EPM-810Q电子探针测试沉积物的化学成分,讨论了沉积物中磷的形态和分布以及沉积物的地球化学特征与环境的意义。结果表明,调查海区表层沉积物中磷灰石结合态磷与无机磷的含量变化主要受控于生物活动,它们具有同源关系,同属可被生物利用而再次进人生物地球化学循环的磷。沉积物中的总磷和有机磷与FeO显著相关。沉积物中磷灰石结合态磷与CaO显著相关,它的来源和输入方式受控于水体中碎屑颗粒沉积作用的影响。 相似文献
115.
滨海城市社区的空间形态及其海岸线表现出一定程度的复杂性,发展量化描述方法对于其可发展研究有重要的理论与应用价值。本研究基于分形理论,以滨海城市厦门的高浦社区为研究对象,利用计盒法对该滨海社区空间形态和边界进行复杂性分析和分形维计算,研究社区空间形态复杂性演变规律。结果表明:作为典型海湾渔村的高浦社区空间形态具有分数维,呈现分形结构特性。自1989年至今,该社区空间形态的分形维数呈现增长态势;社区边界的分形维数呈现下降态势。社区空间形态的分形维数与社区建筑占地面积、建筑总面积、建筑密度、容积率都表现出相关性。这表明滨海社区在快速城市化进程中,社区规模急剧扩张可能会导致空间形态和边界复杂性的显著变化。 相似文献
116.
A morphodynamical linear stability analysis is used to predict the natural development of crescentic bed patterns and rip channels. The purpose is to investigate whether this technique, which is useful for understanding the physics of emerging bed-forms, can be used to make quantitative predictions in the field, which may then be of use for coastal engineers. 相似文献
117.
Wave–current laboratory experiments have shown that the logarithmic current profile observed in pure current flows is modified due to the presence of waves. When waves propagate opposite the current, an increase in the current intensity is achieved near the mean water level, while a reduction is obtained for following waves and currents. With the aim of analyzing these nonlinear effects along the whole water column, an Eulerian wave–current model is presented. In contrast to previously presented wave–current models, the present is able to include the variation of the free surface elevation due to the wave motion and the effect of a non hydrostatic pressure field. Therefore it does not restrict its application to waves in shallow waters. Moreover, the model is able to simulate all the possible angles between waves and currents. 相似文献
118.
This study describes a new convenient and robust system developed to measure benthic boundary layer properties, with emphasis placed on the determination of bed shear stress and roughness height distribution within estuarine systems by using velocity measurements. This system consisted of a remotely operated motorised traverser that allowed a single ADV to collect data between 0 and 1 m above the bed. As a case study, we applied the proposed traversing system to investigate bottom boundary layer (BBL) hydraulic properties within Coombabah Creek, Queensland, Australia. Four commonly-employed techniques: (1) Log-Profile (LP); (2) Reynolds stress (RS); (3) Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE); and (4) Inertial Dissipation (ID) used to estimate bed shear stresses from velocity measurements were compared. Bed shear stresses estimated with these four methods agreed reasonably well; of these, the LP method was found to be most useful and reliable. Additionally, the LP method permits the calculation of roughness height, which the other three methods do not. An average value of bed shear stress of 0.46 N/m2, roughness height of 4.3 mm, and drag coefficient of 0.0054 were observed within Coombabah Creek. Results are consistent with that reported for several other silty bed estuaries. 相似文献
119.
A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient ar introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves. 相似文献
120.
INTRODUCTIONPhosphorus (P)isanimportantlimitingelementinglobaloceanicproductivity (Holland ,1 978) ,soknowledgeofPisakeytobetterunderstandingofthecyclingofcarbon ,nitrogen,sulfur,andothernu trientelements.Inasimplemassbalancemodel,thelevelofdissolvedPintheoceanisafunctionoftherateofinputviarivers,andtherateofoutputviadepositioninsediments.Inthepresentstudy,thefocusisontheriverinePinputbytheHuangheRiver (YellowRiver)totheBohaiSea,andespeciallyontheamountofPsolubilizedfromsolidphasesupo… 相似文献