Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Ching-Piao Tsai  Hong-Bin Chen  Hwung-Hweng Hwung  Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.  相似文献   

太平洋波高分布及变化规律研究   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

韩树宗  朱大勇  郭佩芳 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2003,33(6):825-832

使用 Topex/ Poseidon卫星高度计 1 992年 1 0月～ 1 998年 1 2月连续 75个月 ,2 30个重复周期的有效波高资料对南北太平洋的有效波高进行了统计 ,分析了太平洋有效波高的多年平均、多年各月平均和多年各季平均的空间分布特征和时间变化规律。结果表明 ,太平洋波高分布具有明显季节变化的规律 ,与太平洋的风速分布特征具有良好的对应关系  相似文献   

Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique     

Ole R. Srensen  Hemming A. Schffer  Lars S. Srensen 《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):181-198

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.  相似文献   

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model     

I. O. Leont'yev   《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.  相似文献   

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater     

D. -S. Hur  N. Kawashima  K. Iwata 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1923-1940

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.  相似文献   

太平洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究     

韩树宗  乔方利  朱大勇  郭佩芳 《海洋科学进展》2003,21(4):424-431

使用1992年IO月到1998年12月连续共75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南、北太平洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究。统计分析了太平洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，太平洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与太平洋的平均有效波高和气候分布特征和变化规律相一致。给出了南北太平洋模拟波高熵的计算公式及计算稳定性检验。  相似文献   

Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

Wang Yuanzhan  Chi Lihua  Pan Houzhi Associate Professor 《中国海洋工程》1996,(3)

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.  相似文献   

机载激光雷达平均树高提取研究   总被引：16，自引：3，他引：13  

庞勇  赵峰  李增元  周淑芳  邓广  刘清旺  陈尔学 《遥感学报》2008,12(1):152-158

为了研究机载激光雷达(LiDAR)树高提取技术,以山东省泰安市徂徕山林场为实验区,于2005年5月进行了机载LiDAR数据获取和外业测量.通过对LiDAR点云数据的分类处理,分别得到了试验区的地面点云子集、植被点云子集和高程归一化的植被点云子集.基于高程归一化的植被点云子集计算了上四分位数处的高度,与实地测量的数据进行了比较,并结合中国森林调查规程进行了实用性分析.结果表明:对于较低密度的点云数据,使用分位数法可以较好地进行林分平均高的估计;机载激光雷达技术对树高估计是可行的,精度都高于87%,总体平均精度为90.59%,其中阔叶树的精度高于针叶树.该试验精度可以满足中国二类森林调查规程中平均树高因子的一般商品林和生态公益林的精度要求,对国有商品林小班的调查精度要求(5%)存在一点差距,需要在国有商品林区进一步开展验证工作.对本试验区而言,已经可以满足其作为森林公园生态公益林的调查要求.  相似文献   

BP神经网络在局部似大地水准面精化的应用   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

李爱国  WANG Wei  徐永胜 《全球定位系统》2008,33(3):29-31

针对高程拟合中的模型误差问题,采用BP神经网络方法进行拟合,可以减小模型误差,提高似大地水准面的精化精度。在焦作市局部似大地水准面精化算例中,BP神经网络高程拟合取得了良好的效果。  相似文献   

全站仪似水准法和对向法高程测量的比较研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

魏东升  李星照 《测绘科学》2008,33(1):152-154

通过对似水准法和对向法高程测量原理、误差来源及精度的比较分析,我们发现随着距离和竖直角度的增大,对向法高程测量中误差的变化大于似水准法高程测量中误差的变化;当两观测点间的水平距离小于等于1km时,对向法高程测量精度一般高于似水准法高程测量精度,但是当两观测点间的水平距离大于1km时,似水准法高程测量精度一般高于对向法高程测量精度。  相似文献