A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation     

SONG Zhiyao  ZHANG Honggui  KONG Jun  LI Ruijie  ZHANG Wei 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(2):106-114

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.  相似文献   

A GIS-based step-wise procedure for assessing physical exposure in fragmented archipelagos     

Jan Ekebom  Pasi Laihonen  Tapio Suominen 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):887-898

Wind and waves are major forces affecting the geomorphology and biota in coastal areas. We present a generally applicable method for measuring and calculating fetch length, fetch direction and wave exposure. Fetch length and direction, measured by geographic information system-based methods, are used along with wind direction and wind speed data to estimate wave height and period by applying forecasting curves. The apparent power of waves approaching the shore, used as a proxy for wave exposure, is then calculated by a linear wave model. We demonstrate our method by calculating fetch lengths and wave exposure indices for five areas with varying exposure levels and types of meteorological conditions in the Finnish Archipelago Sea, situated in the northern Baltic Sea. This method is a rapid and accurate means of estimating exposure, and is especially applicable in areas with geomorphologically varying and complicated shorelines. We expect that our method will be useful in several fields, such as basic biogeographical and biodiversity research, as well as coastal land-use planning and management.  相似文献   

Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

Wang Yuanzhan  Chi Lihua  Pan Houzhi Associate Professor 《中国海洋工程》1996,(3)

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.  相似文献   

波峰特征量的统计分布     

张寒元  于定勇 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2003,33(6):989-997

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关  相似文献   

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea     

于宜法  俞聿修  左军成  万振文  陈宗镛 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(3)

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…  相似文献   

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed     

CHANG Hsien-Kuo 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(4):499-511

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.  相似文献   

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波     

侯一筠  李炜  王新生 《海洋与湖沼》1994,25(5):539-545

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。  相似文献   

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth   总被引：12，自引：2，他引：12  

Hong Guangwen Professor  Research Institute of Coastal  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Xikang Road  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.  相似文献   

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

李培顺 《海洋预报》1994,11(4):47-51

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。  相似文献   

Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces     

Yang Zhengji Zuo Qihua Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.  相似文献