Effective fetch and non-linear four-wave interactions during wave growth in slanting fetch conditions     

Marcel Bottema  Gerbrant van Vledder 《Coastal Engineering》2008

Wave growth in slanting fetch (with wind blowing obliquely off a coast) is investigated with 7 years worth of routine wave measurements in Lake IJssel in The Netherlands and with the SWAN wave model. Two aspects are considered in particular for this case: the validity of the concept of effective fetch and the role of the non-linear four-wave interactions. For slanting and parallel fetch conditions, we found some significant deviations from the effective fetch assumption, leading to 20–35% mismatch in either the peak period T_p or the significant wave height H_m0 respectively. However, the effect of discrepancies between various widely accepted wave growth formulas turned out to be even more important. The wave directions during slanting fetch are significantly ‘steered’ by the coastline, especially in the first kilometre(s) off the coast. The role of the non-linear four-wave interactions is investigated by running the SWAN (version 40.41) wave model with three different quadruplet formulations. Exact quadruplet methods (Xnl) yielded relatively strong wave steering, despite the four-wave interactions being relatively weak. Application of Xnl did not lead to better overall agreement with measurements — improvements for the mean wave period T_m01 were offset by some deterioration for the wave height H_m0.  相似文献   

Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones     

T.E. Baldock  A. KudoP.A. Guard  J.M. AlsinaM.P. Barnes 《Coastal Engineering》2008

New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations.  相似文献   

对黄土地区钻孔和探井试样试验指标的分析评价          下载免费PDF全文

高喜政  盛根来 《山东国土资源》2008,24(10)

通过对济南地区次生黄土所采集的钻孔和探井土样进行浸水试验,并对其主要物理力学指标进行了分析评价,得出探井试样比钻孔试样所具有的试验指标更为真实可靠,因此次生黄土分布区采集探井试样进行湿陷性浸水试验是十分必要的。  相似文献   

钱塘江强潮河段江道缩窄治理研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

陈来华  潘存鸿 《海洋工程》2008,26(2):96-102

对钱塘江强潮河段江道缩窄治理进行研究。首先,回顾治理方案的比选,江道全线缩窄时河轴线线路和河道宽度的确定原则,以及不同河段的指数放宽率。然后,介绍了在涌潮汹涌、滩涂淤坍变化剧烈的强潮河段,实施筑堤所采取的工程措施的步序与要点。最后,分析论证了大规模江道缩窄治理后河床、潮汐、洪水位及涌潮高度等特征值的变化。可供进一步深入理论研究和工程施工参考运用。  相似文献   

海底孔内水合物观测系统与钻井实施     

宁伏龙  蒋国盛  吴翔  窦斌  张凌 《海洋地质译丛》2008,(4):31-35

通过耦合布设海底表面和孔内水合物观测系统获取物理、化学、微生物等数据是了解掌握海洋水合物环境动态变化、碳循环规律和资源开发技术的有效手段,据此初步提出了一套海底孔内水合物观测系统,并指出了系统的关键技术难点。而在钻井布设该孔内观测系统时,要注意防止井内安全事故的发生,充分评估安放位置处含水合物地层的地质力学稳定性并采取适当的钻井和完井方式稳定或强化含水合物地层以支撑孔内观察仪器,实现孔内长期监测。最后讨论了在我国南海实施孔内水合物观测系统的必要性,并提出了初步想法。  相似文献   

Wave run-up on bermed coastal structures     

《Applied Ocean Research》2019

Reliable estimation of wave run-up is required for the effective and efficient design of coastal structures when flooding or wave overtopping volumes are an important consideration in the design process. In this study, a unified formula for the wave run-up on bermed structures has been developed using collected and existing data. As data on berm breakwaters was highly limited, physical model tests were conducted and the run-up was measured. Conventional governing parameters and influencing factors were then used to predict the dimensionless run-up level with 2% exceedance probability. The developed formula includes the effect of water depth which is required in understanding the influence of sea level rise and consequent changes of wave height to water depth ratio on the future hydraulic performance of the structures. The accuracy measures such as RMSE and Bias indicated that the developed formula is more accurate than the existing formulas. Additionally, the new formula was validated using field measurements and its superiority was observed when compared to the existing prediction formulas. Finally, the new design formula incorporating the partial safety factor was introduced as a design tool for engineers.  相似文献   

录井校正新方法在东海盆地西湖凹陷的应用     

江志强  陈金龙  鲁法伟 《海洋地质前沿》2019,35(6):64-68

录井检测受井场环境影响较大,主要包括钻井环境与检测环境,钻井环境包括井径、钻时、钻井液排量、是否取心等,检测环境主要是井场自然环境与检测器内部环境。一般情况下检测器内部环境基本一致,而井场自然环境在一定时间内变化不大,故而钻井环境对录井检测的影响较大,钻井环境校正是进行录井解释前的重要工作。常规Tg(全烃含量)校正方法在取心、低异常、多互层等层段使用效果较差,经过分析,将校正方法在取心、钻时、排量、基值方面进行优化,实践验证,新校正方法效果较好,适应了西湖凹陷的地质研究需求。  相似文献   

Micrometer measurements of visual double stars at Calar Alto     

J. F. Ling  V. Lanchares 《Astronomische Nachrichten》1993,314(4):303-305

We present 93 micrometer measurements of 55 double stars observed with the 152 cm telescope at the Spanish observatory at Calar Alto (Almeria, Spain).  相似文献   

西太平洋台风对上海地区钻孔应变的低频扰动特征分析          下载免费PDF全文

袁媛  韩娜娜 《地震工程学报》2021,43(1):33-42

基于上海佘山台四分量钻孔应变仪在6次西太平洋台风期间的观测记录,利用小波分解、优势振动方向等处理方法提取出台风所激发的显著低频扰动信号,并详细分析扰动信号在时频域及空间域的表现特性.结果显示:在低频区间,台风激发的扰动信号优势周期为2～4 min,信号能量随台风进程而变化,并主要与台风量级、台风中心的位置(海上或陆域)...  相似文献   

IN SITU MEASUREMENTS OF BASAL WATER QUALITY AND PRESSURE AS AN INDICATOR OF THE CHARACTER OF SUBGLACIAL DRAINAGE SYSTEMS     

DAN B. STONE  GARRY K. C. CLARKE 《水文研究》1996,10(4):615-628

Continuous subglacial measurements of turbidity and electrical conductivity — two indicators of basal water quality — can be used to help characterize subglacial drainage systems. These indicators of water quality yield information that complements that provided by water pressure measurements. Quantitative attributes of subglacial drainage systems, such as water velocity and subglacial residence time, as well as qualitative behaviour — for example, spatial and temporal variations in system morphology — can be deduced using water quality measurements. Interpretation is complicated by the many potential influences on turbidity and electrical conductivity, but when these complications are appreciated a richer interpretation results. To demonstrate the utility of basal water quality measurements, observations from Trapridge Glacier, Yukon Territory, Canada were examined. The data reveal complex behaviour of the drainage system, but constraints imposed by basal water quality measurements help to clarify the nature of the subglacial flow system. The measurement and interpretation methods described and demonstrated are applicable to other glaciers. As such, they should prove useful for characterizing different subglacial drainage configurations and behaviours, thereby improving our general understanding of the hydrology and dynamics of wet-based glaciers.  相似文献