Third-Order Stokes Wave Solutions of the Free Surface Capillary-Gravity Wave and the Interfacial Internal Wave     

MENG Rui-jun  CUI Ji-feng  CHEN Xiao-gang  ZHANG Bao-le  ZHANG Hong-bo 《海洋工程》2017,(6):781-787

Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth''s fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n≥2) times'' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension.  相似文献   

The influence of Stokes drift on oil spills: Sanchi oil spill case     

Yiqiu Yang  Yan Li  Juan Li  Jingui Liu  Zhiyi Gao  Kaixuan Guo  Han Yu 《海洋学报(英文版)》2021,40(10):30-37

Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate.  相似文献   

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力垂向分布     

吴相忠  张庆河 《海洋科学》2012,36(8):64-69

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应.  相似文献   

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傅露  褚永海 《大地测量与地球动力学》2013,33(2):110-113

???DNSC08-GRA????е????????????????????????????????Stokes??????????????????????????????????????????????Stokes????????-??????????????????3.4 cm???????????????????????????????GPS/????????м??????????????????????1.17 m???????????????С?7 cm??  相似文献   

Dynamics of settling-driven convection beneath a sediment-laden buoyant overflow: Implications for the length-scale of deposition in lakes and the coastal ocean     

Shahrzad Davarpanah Jazi  Mathew G. Wells 《Sedimentology》2020,67(1):699-720

A series of laboratory experiments was conducted in order to determine how settling-driven convection influences the length-scale over which the majority of particles settle beneath a buoyant sediment-laden plume spreading over a denser saline layer. This system is analogous to sediment-laden river water spreading into a lake or the coastal ocean. The key dimensionless parameter that controls the settling dynamics of such flows is the density ratio, defined as the ratio of density differences due to the added salt and sediment. For a buoyant plume, this ratio has to be greater than unity, so that the experiments in the current study were performed for density ratios between one and five. When density ratio was close to one, settling-driven convection was vigorous and the length-scale over which sedimentation occurred was very small. A strong secondary turbidity current was generated in this case. On the other hand, for larger values of density ratio, the predicted length-scale over which a secondary plume was generated increased in proportion to the density ratio. A complete mathematical expression for this length-scale was developed using recent theory that described the timescale over which settling-driven convection evolved. The theoretically predicted propagation length-scale showed very good quantitative agreement with laboratory experiments. The use of the dimensionless density ratio allows the expression to predict which sediment-laden river plumes in lakes and the coastal ocean could quickly form secondary turbidity currents.  相似文献   

Crop characterization using an improved scattering power decomposition technique for compact polarimetric SAR data     

《International Journal of Applied Earth Observation and Geoinformation》2020

Crop characterization using Compact-Pol Synthetic Aperture Radar (CP-SAR) data is of prime interest with the rapid advancements of SAR systems towards operational applications. It is noteworthy that as a good compromise between the dual and quad-polarized SAR systems, the CP-SAR offer advantages in terms of the larger swath and lower data rate. The m − χ CP decomposition considers two out of the three Stokes child parameters: degree of polarization (m), ellipticity (χ), and orientation angle (ψ) to describe the polarized part of the quasi-monochromatic partially polarized wave. An improvement in the scattering powers was proposed in the S − Ω decomposition, which takes into accounts both the transmitted and received wave ellipticities (χ_t, χ_r) and the orientation angles (ψ_t, ψ_r). In this decomposition, S denotes the Stokes vector and Ω is the polarized power fraction. However, it may be noted that the S − Ω decomposition intrinsically ignores dominance in the target scattering mechanism while calculating the powers. In this work, improvement is proposed for the S − Ω decomposition by utilizing the degree of dominance in the scattering mechanism. The improved S − Ω (named as iS − Ω) decomposition powers are first compared with the existing m − χ and S − Ω powers for elementary (viz., trihedral and dihedral corner reflectors) and distributed targets using simulated CP-SAR data from quad-pol RADARSAT-2 data. An increase of ∼2% for odd and even-bounce powers obtained from the iS − Ω decomposition is observed for the trihedral and dihedral corner reflectors respectively. The analysis of the scattering powers for distributed targets shows that an increase of 15% and 12% in the even and odd-bounce powers is observed from iS − Ω for urban and bare soil areas respectively as compared to the m − χ and S − Ω decompositions. Besides, temporal variations in the scattering powers obtained from the iS − Ω decomposition are also analyzed for rice, cotton, and sugarcane crops at different growth stages.  相似文献   

平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响的数值研究     

任春平  梁荣荣  郁重  白玉川 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(9):102-112

破波带内外都有质量输移流存在，其对破波带内污染物输移有怎样的影响，需要进一步深入研究。本文基于实验以及考虑质量输移流的对流扩散数学模型研究了平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响。数学模型包括波浪模型、近岸流模型以及对流扩散模型。首先建立了破波带内污染物输移数学模型，其中波浪场基于波能守恒方程来计算，波导流场基于Longuet-Higgins提出的辐射应力模拟，污染物对流扩散方程中考虑了质量输移流的影响，并利用算例验证该数学模型。其次简要介绍了平直斜坡上破波带内污染物输移实验，并分析了污染物输移特性。连续投放污染物会形成污染带，本文分析了两种波况下不同时刻污染带与岸线夹角的变化，以及污染物在垂直岸线和沿岸线方向的输移速度，结果表明对两种波况来说在初始10-40s污染团向岸线方向输移速度分别约为0.05m/s、0.017m/s，之后速度分别减小为0.001m/s、0.011m/s。数值模拟结果与实验结果比较表明：考虑质量输移流的模拟结果与实验更为吻合。因而，通过实验以及数模研究表明破波带内质量输移流对破波带内污染物在垂直岸线方向的输移有重要影响，而对沿岸方向的输移则影响较小。  相似文献   

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究     

黄国兴  LAW Wing-Keung Adrian 《海洋学报(英文版)》2018,37(7):55-61

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为，随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散，这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知，随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量，因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。  相似文献   

Propagation of a solitary wave over rigid porous beds   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Ching-Jer Huang  Mao-Lin Shen  Hsing-Han Chang 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(11-12):1194-1202

The unsteady two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and Navier–Stokes type model equations for porous flows were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of a solitary wave over porous beds. The free surface boundary conditions and the interfacial boundary conditions between the water region and the porous bed are in complete form. The incoming waves were generated using a piston type wavemaker set up in the computational domain. Accuracy of the numerical model was verified by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical solutions. The main characteristics of the flow fields in both the water region and the porous bed were discussed by specifying the velocity fields. Behaviors of boundary layer flows in both fluid and porous bed regions were also revealed. Effects of different parameters on the wave height attenuation were studied and discussed. The results of this numerical model indicate that for the investigated incident wave as the ratio of the porous bed depth to the fluid depth exceeds 10, any further increase of the porous bed depth has no effect on wave height attenuation.  相似文献   

Pressure and shear stress caused by raindrop impact at the soil surface: Scaling laws depending on the water depth          下载免费PDF全文

Amina Nouhou Bako  Frédéric Darboux  François James  Christophe Josserand  Carine Lucas 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2016,41(9):1199-1210

Raindrop impact is an important process in soil erosion. Through its pressure and shear stress, raindrop impact causes a significant detachment of the soil material, making this material available for transport by sheet flow. Thanks to the accurate Navier–Stokes equations solver Gerris, we simulate the impact of a single raindrop of diameter D, at terminal velocity, on water layers of different thickness h: , , D, 2D, in order to study pressures and shear stresses involved in raindrop erosion. These complex numerical simulations help in understanding precisely the dynamics of the raindrop impact, quantifying in particular the pressure and the shear stress fields. A detailed analysis of these fields is performed and self‐similar structures are identified for the pressure and the shear stress on the soil surface. The evolution of these self‐similar structures are investigated as the aspect ratio h/D varies. We find that the pressure and the shear stress have a specific dependence on the ratio between the drop diameter and the water layer thickness, and that the scaling laws recently proposed in fluid mechanics are also applicable to raindrops, paving the road to obtain effective models of soil erosion by raindrops. In particular, we obtain a scaling law formula for the dependence of the maximum shear stress on the soil on the water depth, a quantity that is crucial for quantifying erosion materials. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献