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1.
This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter. 相似文献
2.
In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases. 相似文献
3.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
4.
海洋环流模式中不同近似假设下的海表高度 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
Boussinesq近似是现代海洋环流模式中经常采用的假设，但随着海洋模式的不断发展完善以及气候研究应用的需要，有必要估算Boussinesq近似造成的模式误差。分别利用一个非Boussinesq近似的海洋模式与另一个结构相同且采用Boussinesq近似的模式计算海表高度，并同时利用模式预报的温度、盐度资料计算了比容异常高度。分析结果显示，这3种不同定义的海表高度无论空间结构，还是时间演变，都基本类似，尤其在热带海区最接近，差值≤1cm。Boussinesq近似意味着在模式中以体积守恒代替质量守恒，通常的做法是对其进行简单的质量补偿来保持质量守恒。比较说明，以质量补偿方法进行的高度订正对减小Boussinesq近似带来的误差没有本质的意义。 相似文献
5.
关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用 相似文献
6.
The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified. 相似文献
7.
Presented here is a compact explicit difference scheme of high accuracy for solving the extended Boussinesq equations.For time discretization,a three-stage explicit Runge-Kutta method with TVD property is used at predicting stage,a cubic spline function is adopted at correcting stage,which made the time discretization accuracy up to fourth order;For spatial discretization,a three-point explicit compact difference scheme with arbitrary order accuracy is employed.The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Beji and Nadaoka are solved by the proposed scheme.The numerical results agree well with the experimental data.At the same time,the comparisons of the two numerical results between the present scheme and low accuracy difference method are made,which further show the necessity of using high accuracy scheme to solve the extended Boussinesq equations.As a valid sample,the wave propagation on the rectangular step is formulated by the present scheme,the modelled results are in better agreement with the experimental data than those of Kittitanasuan. 相似文献
8.
探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。 相似文献
9.
A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model. 相似文献
10.
Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity. 相似文献