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1.
In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, and a random wave model, SWAN, were combined and utilized. Using this combined model, a numerical simulation of the October 2, 1997 SandyDuck field experiment was performed. For this simulation, field topography and an input offshore spectrum were constructed using observed data sets synchronized with the experiment. The wave-breaking model in SWAN was modified by using breaker parameters varied according to bottom slope. The simulation results were compared with the experimental data, which revealed a well-developed longshore current, as well as with results using other combinations which were SHORECIRC and its original monochromatic wave-driver, and SHORECIRC and the default of SWAN. The results from the novel combined model agreed well with the experimental data. The results of the present simulation also indicate that alongshore field topography influences shear fluctuation of longshore currents. 相似文献
2.
Mud deposits near sandy beaches, found throughout the world, are of scientific and societal interest as they form important natural sea defenses by efficiently damping storm waves. A multi-national field experiment to study these phenomena was performed offshore Cassino beach in southern Brazil starting in 2004. This experiment aimed to investigate the formation of an offshore mud deposit, to characterize wave attenuation over potentially mobile muddy bottoms, and to evaluate the performance of models for wave transformation over heterogeneous beds through the measurement of water waves, near-bottom currents, bathymetry, and changes in bottom sediment characteristics. The main instrumentation was a set of wave sensors deployed in a transect from the shoreline across sandy and muddy deposits offshore to a depth of 25 m. Additional sensors, including current meters and optical backscatter sensors, were concentrated at stations in the middle of the mud deposit and in the surf zone to document aspects of the wave boundary layer and lutocline dynamics. This fieldwork also involved the geological and geotechnical characterization of the mud deposit using seismic equipment, echo-sounders, cores, surficial sampling and an in-situ density meter. These sediment samples were subsequently analyzed for density, grain size distribution, mineralogy, rheology and sedimentary structures. In addition, video and radar monitoring equipment were installed to measure the long-term aspects of surf zone damping by fluid mud and any associated morphodynamic responses. This paper provides a summary of environmental conditions monitored during the experiment and describes the major findings of the various investigations. Although data collection was more difficult than anticipated and dramatic wave attenuation involving the onshore transport of fluid mud into the surf zone region was not observed during the instrumented interval, the new methodologies developed and comprehensive observations obtained during this effort are being used to improve our understanding of shoaling wave dynamics and sediment transport in the coastal zone in regions with significant cohesive sediment deposits. 相似文献
3.
Matteo Vacchi Monica Montefalcone Chiara F. Schiaffino Valeriano Parravicini Carlo Nike Bianchi Carla Morri Marco Ferrari 《Marine pollution bulletin》2014
The upper portion of the meadows of the protected Mediterranean seagrass Posidonia oceanica occurs in the region of the seafloor mostly affected by surf-related effects. Evaluation of its status is part of monitoring programs, but proper conclusions are difficult to draw due to the lack of definite reference conditions. Comparing the position of the meadow upper limit with the beach morphodynamics (i.e. the distinctive type of beach produced by topography and wave climate) provided evidence that the natural landwards extension of meadows can be predicted. An innovative model was therefore developed in order to locate the region of the seafloor where the meadow upper limit should lie in natural conditions (i.e. those governed only by hydrodynamics, in absence of significant anthropogenic impact). This predictive model was validated in additional sites, which showed perfect agreement between predictions and observations. This makes the model a valuable tool for coastal management. 相似文献
4.
A 1-D General Ocean Turbulence Model that includes the effects of sediment-induced stratification is shown to simulate the observed onshore and offshore migration of a nearshore sandbar. The only two free parameters of the model, the bed reference concentration and the sediment diffusivity, are taken from the literature, rather than tuned to the data used here. The model results suggest that predictions of onshore bar migration, in which wave-induced sediment transport confined to within a few centimeters of the bottom dominates, are not greatly affected by accounting for buoyancy effects. The model results also suggest that both mean flows and waves transport sediment during offshore bar migration, with different components of transport dominating at different cross-shore locations across the bar-trough bathymetry. Neglecting the effects of sediment-induced stratification results in higher model skill during the largest waves, likely because the excess turbulence production simulated by the non-stratified model is counterbalanced by neglected breaking-wave-generated turbulence. Considering both onshore and offshore migration, the model that includes sediment-induced stratification has higher skill than the model without stratification. 相似文献
5.
The cross-shore variation of long-term average longshore current velocity was investigated on the basis of a 15-year data set of longshore current, wave and wind. The longshore current velocities were measured once a day along a 427-m-long pier. The results show that the direction of the long-term average longshore current velocity away (>200 m) from the shore was the opposite to that near the shore. The southward current was dominant offshore, whereas the northward current was dominant near the shore. The cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity was formed owing to a difference between the wave and wind conditions when the northward and southward currents developed. When the northward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively small and the frequency of the southward wind velocity was almost equal to that of the northward one. As a result, the northward current developed only near the shore and decayed outside the narrow surf zone. On the other hand, when the southward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively large and the southward wind velocity was predominant, which resulted in the southward current developing not only in the wide surf zone but also outside the surf zone. The superposition of the two cross-shore variations produced a cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity with a northward velocity near the shore and a southward velocity away from the shore. 相似文献
6.
苏北王港近岸表层沉积物元素地球化学特征与环境意义 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
对王港河河道及河口附近潮滩典型地貌部位表层沉积物粒度、常量和微量元素进行分析,结果表明：潮滩和河道近岸沉积物为粘土质粉砂,粒度分布频率曲线在平均高潮线附近的沉积物为双峰态外,其余为单峰态。互花米草滩沉积物中常量和微量元素(Al2O3,TiO2,CaO,Fe2O3,K2O,MgO,MnO和Cu,Rb,Pb,As,Zn)均表现出相对富积的特征,盐蒿滩次之,反映海岸带互花米草在削浪促淤的过程中,对重金属污染有效吸附作用比盐蒿潮滩滩大。SiO2化学性质比较稳定,对沉积地貌动力的响应比较显著,近岸高潮线附近和河道中主洪道沉积物SiO2含量明显偏高。河闸上游河道沉积物中烧失量、磷(P2O5)、硫(稳定态SO3)的含量最高,反映流域营养盐在水闸以上河段沉积物中富积,重金属元素Rb,Pb,As,Ba在河道沉积物中与地壳风度相比表现为富集。王港附近潮滩表层沉积物物质组成不仅与王港河、黄河及长江的物质来源有关,而且与古潮滩沉积再搬运、再沉积以及人类围垦及排放污染活动有关。As,S是该区主要的污染元素。 相似文献
7.
A two dimensional implicit finite volume scheme for solving the shallow-water equations is developed. The effects of the Coriolis force, surface wind stress, and waves are included. A non-uniform rectilinear forward staggered grid is used with Cartesian coordinates. The time integration is performed using the Euler implicit technique. The convective flux is treated using the deferred correction method. The viscous terms are discretized using a second order central difference approximation. The SIMPLE (Semi-Implicit Method for Pressure-Linked Equations) algorithm is used for coupling the velocity components and the water elevation gradient for the water level correction. The system of equations is solved sequentially using the Strongly Implicit Procedure (SIP). To simulate wave driven current, a phase averaged wave model is used first to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses. The performance of the developed model is validated for different sources of external forces and different combinations of boundary conditions. The validation cases include tidal circulation in a harbor and wave induced currents behind a breakwater parallel to the coastline. The model is finally applied to simulate the flow pattern in a closed artificial lagoon and along the coastline near Damietta Port located along the Northern coast of Egypt. Results of the developed model agree well with the published results for the considered cases. 相似文献
8.
Immediate profile and planform evolution of a beach nourishment project with hurricane influences 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this study, planform adjustment began during a period of calm weather immediately after nourishment and then the passage of one strong storm caused a substantial portion of the total profile equilibration. Weekly beach profiles, shoreline surveys, and nearshore wave measurements were conducted before, during, and immediately after construction of the 1100-m long Upham Beach nourishment project on the low-energy, west coast of Florida. This project was constructed in three segments: the wide north segment, the central segment, and the narrow south segment. With the exception of the relatively distant passage of Hurricane Charley, calm weather prevailed for 45 days following completion of the south and central segments. Construction of the wide north segment was completed on August 27, 2004. Substantial planform diffusion occurred prior to construction completion via formation of a 300-m long spit extending from the wide north segment. The shoreline orientation was changed abruptly due to this diffusion spit formation, as opposed to the gradual adjustment predicted by most long-term models. Planform adjustment was initiated prior to profile equilibration, and it did not require high-energy conditions. A simple vector sum model for determining the orientation of a potential diffusion spit was developed. This study recommends designing end transitions at the predicted diffusion spit orientation to avoid post-nourishment spit formation during future projects. 相似文献
9.
A.F. Velegrakis M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas Th. KarambasK. Dimou Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007
This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms. 相似文献
10.
根据浅水波浪的底摩擦效应，对鲁南灵山湾和臼－岚山镇近岸区进行了波浪的海底摩擦力计算。波浪的海底摩擦力等值图与已知滨海锆石砂矿资料对比表明，底摩擦力大于０．１８Ｎ／ｍ＾２的动力分选区有利于重矿物砂富集。据此，进一步预测了鲁南近岸带的砂矿富集区。 相似文献