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1.
波能平衡方程是研究风浪要素及波能传播问题的很有效的方法,计算较为简单,在海洋学及海岸动力学中得到广泛的应用。本文采用考虑波能侧向传递机制和耗损制约的波能平衡方程组作为研究波浪折射——绕射变形的控制方程。对数学模型用差分法进行了数值模拟,并用两个例题进行了验证  相似文献   

2.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。  相似文献   

3.
Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions   总被引:2,自引:3,他引:2  
Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.  相似文献   

4.
将共轭变分同化方法应用于 LAGFD- WAM海浪数值模式 ,导出了海浪谱能量平衡方程的共轭方程以及风输入、破碎、底摩擦、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用的相应共轭源函数 ,建立了海浪同化模型 ,数值计算仍采用特征线嵌入计算格式 ,为合成孔径雷达波谱反演资料和卫星高度计有效波高资料同化奠定理论基础  相似文献   

5.
Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.  相似文献   

6.
球坐标系下MASNUM海浪数值模式的建立及其应用   总被引:24,自引:5,他引:24  
为开展海浪对海洋上混合层的搅拌混合作用及其对海气界面通量的影响等研究,在LAGFD WAM区域海浪数值模式基础上建立了球坐标系下的全球海浪数值模式.重点导出了球坐标系下的海浪能量谱平衡方程及其复杂特征线方程,该组方程包含了背景流场对波动传播的调整、波动沿大圆传播的折射等.数值积分则采用复杂特征线嵌入计算格式.初步数值模拟结果表明,该海浪全球数值模式能够较为精确地刻画海浪的动力过程.  相似文献   

7.
Analytically Derived Wind Wave Growth Relations   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3  
GUAN  Changlong 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(3):359-368
By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with shehering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of shehering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to detennine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made.  相似文献   

8.
Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data.  相似文献   

9.
本文基于波能平衡方程,通过考虑波的传播项,即,研究波场非匀质性对波向对变风向的响应的影响。导出的结果表明,响应的时间尺度可由3部分表示:1.匀质情形响应的贡献;2.波能分布非匀质性的影响;3.平均波向分布非匀质性的影响。在理论上,它暗示波场的非匀质性在波向响应中起着实质性的作用;在实际情况下,对匀质和平稳风场,波场的非匀质性总是使响应时间尺度减少这一事实进行了讨论。  相似文献   

10.
王运洪 《海洋与湖沼》1994,25(6):660-664
采用理论推导与实验资料验证相结合的方法对近岸浅水波衰减计算进行研究。研究表明,波浪与浅水区运动传播衰减是各种能耗共同作用的结果,为此总结了分子粘性能耗、湍流能耗、底部渗透能耗、底部摩擦能耗、软泥海底弹性能耗等,由建立波能流平衡方程出发进行理论推导,得出各种能耗影响下波浪衰减的计算公式,并将该理论公式与作者1980年波浪水槽试验资料比较,两者基本吻合,可适用于线性及非线性各种波能耗情况的计算。  相似文献   

11.
In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived.A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation.The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed.The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct.It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which are identical to a conventional action balance equation.  相似文献   

12.
In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e.,(f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C~(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations.  相似文献   

13.
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.  相似文献   

14.
海洋波浪能是一种可持续和零污染的再生能源,随着自然能源日渐匮乏和全球气候变化,人类对波浪能的开发利用显得尤其重要。本文应用"跨零—能量"波浪分析的新方法,首次推导了不规则波浪的波能流垂向分布及其理论计算公式。本文研究发现,浅水波能流具有均匀的垂向分布,深水波能流集中于海表层的水体中,过渡区波能流的垂向分布介于浅水和深水波能的分布之间。研究还发现,目前海洋波能流的估算方法和现今波浪发电装置的波能采集深度缺少相关性,过高估算了海洋波浪的可发电资源。  相似文献   

15.
近岸水域波浪变形数学模型   总被引:6,自引:1,他引:5  
本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个近岸水域波浪变形数学模型,模型中采用Batjes关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起来求解近岸水域波浪折射绕射的联合影响的波浪要素。利用本文提出的数学模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,结果表明本文提出的近岸水域波浪变形的数学模型是可靠的,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的。  相似文献   

16.
对已有根据观测提出的幂函数形式风浪成长关系进行了分析。发现这些风浪成长关系在消去无因次风区后一致地与3/2指数律相协调,尽管它们原来存在较大的不协调性。发现Jeffreys,Sverdrup和Munk以及Platit的风能输入源函数在谱积分意义下具有相似性,而Tsikunov,Hasselmann和Phillips的破波耗散源函数在谱积分意义下也具有相似性,尽管这些源函数的原始形式和物理背景显著地不同。利用有效波能量平衡方程,将3/2指数律和发现的风能输入及破波耗散源函数相似性相结合,提出了深水风浪随风区成长的分式指数律,以得到的分式指数律拟合已有基于观测提出的风浪成长关系提出了半经验的风浪成长关系,与已有观测数据符合。  相似文献   

17.
水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Battjes关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。  相似文献   

18.
为了解决振动水柱式波浪能转换装置收集多向波浪问题,本文设计了半球形多向聚合波道振荡水柱气室结构,以适合远海单点波浪能采集和发电。在规则波正向入射条件下,基于流体仿真分析软件(FLUENT)、流体动力学连续性假设和粘性不可压缩流体动量守恒的运动方程(Navier-Stokes方程)建立半球形振荡气室和三维数值波浪水槽模型。仿真结果表明:增设气室后壁,合理设计波道开口角度实现多向迎波捕获波浪能,优化前壁形状可降低波浪触底反射带来的能量耗散,同时提高了气室内空气压强和出气口速度,有效提升波浪能俘获效率,为后续发电的二次能量转换提供高效的空气动力。  相似文献   

19.
近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2       下载免费PDF全文
唐军  沈永明  崔雷  邱大洪 《海洋学报》2008,30(2):147-152
基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。  相似文献   

20.
When studying the harbor water tranquility, cases are often confronted as that the verification point is not located on the generation line or that the angle between the generation line and the isobath is so large that the differences of the wave climates along the generation line can not be ignored. For these cases, the incident boundary conditions are difficult to evaluate. In order to solve this problem, a combined wave model is developed in the present paper based on the Boussinesq equation and the wave action balance equation. Instead of the one-line wave generation method, a multi-line generation method is proposed for the combined model. Application of this method is given to a case that the harbor is designed with two entrances and the angle between the generation line and the isobath is large and the results are shown reasonable. We suggest that the wave generation method on multi-lines might also be introduced to the wave physical model as the replacement for the one-line generation method.  相似文献   

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