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我国海浪理论及预报研究的回顾与展望 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
管长龙 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2000,30(4)
作者从海浪谱、海浪统计分布、海浪预报方法及动力机制、破碎波和近岸的海浪 5个方面回顾与总结了我国在海浪理论及预报研究方面所取得的成果 ,最后对我国在新世纪的海浪研究做一展望。 相似文献
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第九讲 海浪预报技术及预报方法(2) 半理论半经验海浪预报方法 半理论半经验海浪预报方法常用的有三种:一是特征波预报方法也称有效波预报方法;二是波谱预报方法;三是能量平衡导出谱的预报方法。 相似文献
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1 海浪观测 海浪预报和气象预报一样是建立在广泛而实时的资料来源基础上。许多海洋国家在建设和完善本国的海洋观测网的同时,积极参加联合国政府间海洋学委员会(IOC)和世界气象组织(WMO)联合筹建的“全球海洋环境监测网” 的活动。 目前实时收集、传输、处理和交换海浪资料主要依靠国家和国际海洋监测网。海浪观测主要由志愿测报船、海洋遥测浮标、海上作业平台和岸边海洋站进行。 海洋站海浪观测项目有海况、波型、波向、波高、周期、波长和波速。海况和波型通常采用目测方法,波型分为风浪、涌浪、以风浪为主的混合浪、以涌… 相似文献
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畸形波是一种灾害性海浪现象,源于海浪的某种不稳定机制,一些海难事件被认为是由畸形波所导致的。由于畸形波的灾害性和随机性,迄今具有较完整观测数据的畸形波事件记录较少,发生于1995年的北海"新年波事件"被认为是一个难得的具有较完整观测数据的畸形波记录。本文利用两个海浪模式WW3和SWAN以及两种类型的风场对"新年波事件"的海浪场进行了数值模拟。研究结果表明,对于不同海浪模式和风场,其模拟结果相一致。 相似文献
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An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves. 相似文献
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畸形波传播速度实验和数值模拟研究 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
畸形波的传播速度是其最重要的特征参数之一。研究畸形波的传播速度有助于深入和全面了解畸形波的生成机理及其演化过程,另外还可以用于畸形波的预报。针对现有关于畸形波传播速度计算方法(高阶Stokes波理论近似估算,Hilbert变换和两固定点的距离除以畸形波的波峰经过两点所用时间)的不准确性和局限性,使用32个测点描述畸形波波峰沿波浪水槽的运动轨迹,再用回归分析法估算波峰运动轨迹与时间的相关关系,从而计算出畸形波的传播速度。基于288组物理模拟畸形波和364组数值模拟畸形波传播速度的计算结果,使用回归分析方法得出了畸形波传播速度的半经验半理论计算公式,同时还分析了畸形波传播速度的强非线性特征。 相似文献
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Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum.The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schruedinger equation (mNLSE),and some involved influence factors are also discussed.Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied,a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train,and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves.The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented. 相似文献
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An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values 相似文献
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An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed 总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated. 相似文献
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Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f−4, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs. 相似文献
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本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。 相似文献
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Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory 总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3
In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height. 相似文献