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1.
A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.  相似文献   

2.
A tree-based solver for adaptive ocean modelling   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The development of an adaptive (in space and time) ocean model from an existing adaptive finite-volume Navier–Stokes model is described. A flexible and efficient quadtree spatial discretisation is used which requires collocation of all variables (i.e. an A-grid discretisation). We demonstrate that the use of an approximate projection method allows for implicit damping of instabilities generally associated with the A-grid, at the expense of a relatively small amount of numerical energy dissipation, while accurately preserving dispersive properties and geostrophic balance. The finite-volume formulation also maintains second-order spatial accuracy at all solid boundaries. Test cases demonstrate the efficacy of the adaptive ocean model, and the advantages it has in terms of efficient representation of multi-scale behaviour within a single model. The model is freely available as open-source code.  相似文献   

3.
近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散联合模式的有限元数值研究   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
建立了近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散的有限元数值模式。采用的有限元方法为改进的混合元法,其中外域开边界条件得到改进,内域有限元为伽廖金有限元。用理论解检验了所建立的数值模式,并将该模式应用到一个模型港湾。  相似文献   

4.
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.  相似文献   

5.
A coupled discontinuous–continuous Galerkin (DG–CG) shallow water model is compared to a continuous Galerkin generalized wave-continuity equation (GWCE) based model for the coastal ocean, whereby local mass imbalance typical of GWCE-based solutions is eliminated using the coupled DG–CG approach. Two mass imbalance indicators for the GWCE-based model are presented and analyzed. The indicators motivate discussion on the suitability of using a GWCE-based model versus the locally conservative coupled DG–CG model. Both realistic and idealized test problems for tide, wind, and wave-driven circulation form the basis of the study. For the problems studied, coupled DG–CG solutions retain the robustness of well-documented solutions from GWCE-based models and also capture the dynamics driven by small-scale, highly advective processes which are problematic for GWCE-based models. Issues associated with the coupled DG–CG model are explored, including increased cost due to increased degrees of freedom, the necessary application of slope limiters, as well as the actual coupling process.  相似文献   

6.
Estimation and analysis of the uncertainty introduced by using a numerical model for the investigation and study of any type of flow problem have become common industry practice. Through understanding and evaluation of the uncertainty introduced by a numerical model, the accuracy and applicability of the model itself are evaluated. In this paper, the numerical uncertainty of a CFD-methodology developed to analyse the hydrodynamic performance of a collective and cyclic pitch propeller (CCPP) is estimated and analysed. The CCPP is a novel propulsion and manoeuvring concept for autonomous underwater vehicles, aimed to generate both propulsion and manoeuvring forces through advanced control of the propeller's blade pitch. The numerical uncertainty is established for three performance parameters, the generated propulsive force, the side-force magnitude, and the side-force orientation, by conducting a grid and time-step refinement study over three operational conditions. Additionally, the influence of the oscillatory uncertainty, introduced by the periodic nature of the problem, is investigated although shown to have a minimal effect when properly monitored. Based on a least-squares regression analysis of the refined simulation results, the numerical uncertainty is proven to be dominated by the introduced discretisation errors. In the case of the propulsive and side-force magnitude, the total uncertainty is dictated by the time discretisation uncertainty under bollard pull conditions, while the total uncertainty of the captive cases is mainly a result of the spatial discretisation uncertainty. The total uncertainty in the side-force orientation is observed to be primarily a consequence of the time discretisation uncertainty for all simulated cases. Overall, the total uncertainty for captive cases can be considered satisfactory for all three performance parameters, while further work is needed to reduce the observed uncertainty of the simulations under bollard pull conditions.  相似文献   

7.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):265-275
Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves.  相似文献   

8.
Spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Spatial distribution of random wave overtopping water behind coastal structures was investigated using a numerical model based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver (RANS) and Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme (RANS-VOF). The computed spatial distributions of wave overtopping water behind the structure agree well with the measurements by Pullen et al (2008) for a vertical wall and Lykke Andersen and Burcharth (2006) for a 1:2 sea dike. A semi-analytical model was derived to relate spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures to landward ground level, velocity and layer thickness on the crest. This semi-analytical model agrees reasonably well with both numerical model results and measurements close to coastal structures. Our numerical model results suggest that the proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with a seaward slope when it is less than 1:3 and decreases with a seaward slope when it gets steeper. The proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with landward ground level and overtopping discharge. It also increases with the product of incident wave height and wavelength, but decreases with increasing relative structure freeboard and crest width. We also found that the extent of hazard area due to wave overtopping is significantly reduced by using a permeable structure crown. Findings in this study will enable engineers to establish the extent of hazard zones due to wave overtopping behind coastal structures.  相似文献   

9.
The pikeperch (Sander lucioperca (L.)) is an economically important fish species occurring in the fresh and brackish waters of Europe. To evaluate the distribution and extent of the reproduction areas in the northern Baltic Sea, a field survey was carried out in two separate coastal areas. Presence/absence data were used to develop a geographic information system (GIS)-based predictive spatial distribution model, where high resolution raster maps of the focal environmental variables and a logistic regression equation were used to predict the probability of larval occurrence. The results indicated that the pikeperch reproduction areas are located in the innermost archipelago zone where high water turbidity best explained their presence. Turbidity was related to several other variables such as fetch and depth. Contrary to our preliminary hypothesis, surface water temperatures measured during the survey had no significant effect in the model due to the low spatial variation in the measured values. Since turbidity is possible to determine by remote sensing methods, the probability maps can be cost-effectively extended to more extensive coastal areas with proper validation.  相似文献   

10.
平潭近岸海域岸线曲折,周边岛礁众多,海底地形复杂,是福建省海难事故的高发区.本研究建立了平潭近岸海域海上目标物漂移轨迹的预测系统,该系统通过风场和流场的数值模型获取海面动力环境信息,采用拉格朗日算法实现对海上目标物漂移轨迹的预测追踪.其中海流模型采用ROMS(regional ocean modeling system)模型构建,模型水平方向上最高分辨率为100m,垂向上分为16层,并考虑干湿边界,以体现复杂海岸线和水深地形.通过验证分析,潮位、流速和流向的模拟平均绝对误差分别为0.20 m、0.12 m/s和26°.通过平潭近岸2个浮子实验,结果表明,浮子漂移过程中受潮流和局地地形的影响明显,对漂移模型在平潭近岸海域的适用性进行初步验证,浮子模拟轨迹与实际漂移过程基本吻合,模拟时段内最大偏差距离为2.8km,系统可以为平潭近岸海域海上突发事故应急决策提供参考.  相似文献   

11.
近岸海域悬浮颗粒物的分布与扩散对水体生态环境、海岸地貌演变、水产养殖以及海岸工程等有重要影响。由于刁口河流路的改道,黄河三角洲北部成为强烈侵蚀岸段,揭示该区域的悬浮物浓度变化特征和规律是防护工程安全维护的基础。利用经良好检验的模型反演近岸海域悬浮物浓度,Landsat-8和Sentinel-2卫星影像反演结果的交叉验证表明,基于两种传感器反演的悬浮物浓度具有较强的一致性,两种卫星数据可以结合使用。研究区近岸海域悬浮物浓度季节变化明显,冬季和春季悬浮物浓度较高,夏季较低,秋季是悬浮物浓度从低向高转换的季节。冬、春季该区域风浪较大,在波浪掀沙和潮流输沙的联合作用下,底床泥沙强烈再悬浮,是形成悬浮物的主要来源,丁坝群的修建也在一定程度上改变了悬浮物的时空分布。  相似文献   

12.
Process-based numerical modelling of coastal morphodynamics involves model and data reduction schemes in order to cope with computational limitations. Model reduction, on the one hand, may involve the discretisation of an interactive multidimensional, diverse natural system into a reduced set of coupled process-simulation modules. Data reduction schemes, on the other hand, are used to parameterise processes. The use of schematised open-boundary conditions, which are considered as representative in terms of their cumulative morphological effect, is based on the concept of “morphological” or “representative” boundary conditions. Recent model applications show realistic tendencies in terms of depositional and erosional areas. By contrast, the reproduction of characteristic changes in morphology such as the migration of bars, banks and channels is only occasionally achieved. Using field data on observed morphological impact of a single storm event and numerical model data, it is demonstrated that the concept of representative tides may lead to simulations of morphological development lacking natural dynamics. It is proposed that rather than being based on “representative” single tides, morphodynamic models should be applied with open-boundary conditions which take variations in longer-term tidal and meteorological forcing into account.  相似文献   

13.
Estimates of extreme currents and water levels due to tides, storm surges and their combination are required for the design of offshore structures, and other purposes. Techniques are described which provide such estimates for the north-west European continental shelf. The techniques employ spatial distributions of tide and surge from an established numerical sea model and existing statistical analyses of coastal sea level data. The assumptions embodied in the method are discussed and an indication given of the probable magnitude of the associated errors. The few observational estimates available provide limited verification of the results.  相似文献   

14.
朱正涛  蔡锋  曹超  陈沈良 《海洋通报》2019,38(4):462-471
脆弱性评估很大程度上存在着模糊性和随机性,为有效解决评估过程中定性概念与评估指标按隶属函数定量描述这一不确定转换问题,本文基于云理论本文选取海岸地貌、海岸高程、海岸坡度、海岸缓冲能力、有效波高、道路价值和建筑价值为指标,构建了厦门岛海岸脆弱性评估指标体系,运用云模型评估手段定量测度了厦门岛海岸脆弱性空间分异特征。评估结果与客观情况比较吻合,检验了指标体系的合理性和评估模型的适用性。本文提出了海岸脆弱性综合评估模型,实用有效,可以推广到与厦门岛类似的区域,为海岸管理及规划提供科学指导。  相似文献   

15.
A set of spatially nested circulation models is used to explore interannual change in the northeast Pacific (NEP) during 1997–2002, and remote vs. local influence of the 1997–1998 El Niño on this region. Our nested set is based on the primitive equations of motion, and includes a basin-scale model of the north Pacific at ∼40-km resolution (NPac), and a regional model of the Northeast Pacific at ∼10-km resolution. The NEP model spans an area from Baja California through the Bering Sea, from the coast to ∼2000-km offshore. In this context, “remote influence” refers to effects driven by changes in ocean velocity and temperature outside of the NEP domain; “local influence” refers to direct forcing by winds and runoff within the NEP domain. A base run of this model using hindcast winds and runoff for 1996–2002 replicates the dominant spatial modes of sea-surface height anomalies from satellite data, and coastal sea level from tide gauges. We have performed a series of sensitivity runs with the NEP model for 1997–1998, which analyze the response of coastal sea level to: (1) hindcast winds and coastal runoff, as compared to their monthly climatologies and (2) hindcast boundary conditions (from the NPac model), as compared to their monthly climatologies. Results indicate penetration of sea-surface height (SSH) from the basin-scale model into the NEP domain (e.g., remote influence), with propagation as coastal trapped waves from Baja up through Alaska. Most of the coastal sea-level anomaly off Alaska in El Niño years appears due to direct forcing by local winds and runoff (local influence), and such anomalies are much stronger than those produced off California. We quantify these effects as a function of distance along the coastline, and consider how they might impact the coastal ecosystems of the NEP.  相似文献   

16.
Long-term time series of sea state parameters are required in different coastal engineering applications. In order to obtain wave data at shallow water and due to the scarcity of instrumental data, ocean wave reanalysis databases ought to be downscaled to increase the spatial resolution and simulate the wave transformation process. In this paper, a hybrid downscaling methodology to transfer wave climate to coastal areas has been developed combining a numerical wave model (dynamical downscaling) with mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). A maximum dissimilarity selection algorithm (MDA) is applied in order to obtain a representative subset of sea states in deep water areas. The reduced number of selected cases spans the marine climate variability, guaranteeing that all possible sea states are represented and capturing even the extreme events. These sea states are propagated using a state-of-the-art wave propagation model. The time series of the propagated sea state parameters at a particular location are reconstructed using a non-linear interpolation technique based on radial basis functions (RBFs), providing excellent results in a high dimensional space with scattered data as occurs in the cases selected with MDA. The numerical validation of the results confirms the ability of the developed methodology to reconstruct sea state time series in shallow water at a particular location and to estimate different spatial wave climate parameters with a considerable reduction in the computational effort.  相似文献   

17.
Coastal erosion presents a serious problem throughout U.S. coastal areas. The Ohio Geological Survey estimates that more than 3,200 acres of Ohio's Lake Erie shore have been lost to erosion since the 1870s, resulting in economic losses exceeding tens of millions of dollars per year. This article presents research results of a project that monitors shoreline erosion using high-resolution imagery and examines erosion causes. Spatial modeling and analysis methods are applied to the project area along the south shore of Lake Erie. The shoreline is represented as a dynamically-segmented linear model that is linked to a large amount of data describing shoreline changes. A new method computes an instantaneous shoreline using a digital water level model, a coastal terrain model, and bathymetric data. This method provides an algorithm for deriving the Mean-Lower Low Water (MLLW) and the Mean High Water (MHW) shorelines that are essential to navigation charts. The results describe a part of our effort towards a coastal spatial information infrastructure to support management and decision-making in the dynamic coastal environment.  相似文献   

18.
渤海湾天津近岸海域水环境空间变异分析   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6       下载免费PDF全文
朱琳  聂红涛  陶建华 《海洋学报》2007,29(6):134-140
由于海岸带的地理条件和海洋动力特性的复杂性以及人类开发活动对海岸带的影响,近岸海域的生态环境系统在空间分布上有很大的变异性.基于现场实测资料,建立系统的空间变异分析模型,对海岸带生态环境空间变化规律进行分析,可以充分了解不同区域的污染特征和变化趋势.应用所构建的空间变异分析模型对渤海湾天津近岸海域的水环境特性进行分析,结合对应年份的入海流量及其变化,分析了天津渤海湾海岸带污染的主因子和区域水环境的分布特征,结果可以对海洋功能区的划分和水环境综合评价结果进行验证和补充.  相似文献   

19.
The “Wind Events and Shelf Transport” (WEST) program was an interdisciplinary study of coastal upwelling off northern California in 2000–03. WEST was comprised of modeling and field observations. The primary goal of WEST was to better describe and understand the competing influences of wind forcing on planktonic productivity in coastal waters. While increased upwelling-favorable winds lead to increased nutrient supply, they also result in reduced light exposure due to deeper surface mixed layers and increased advective loss of plankton from coastal waters. The key to understanding high levels of productivity, amidst these competing responses to wind forcing, is the temporal and spatial structure of upwelling. Temporal fluctuations and spatial patterns allow strong upwelling that favors nutrient delivery to be juxtaposed with less energetic conditions that favor stratification and plankton blooms. Observations of winds, ocean circulation, nutrients, phytoplankton and zooplankton off Bodega Bay and Point Reyes (38°N) were combined with model studies of winds, circulation and productivity. This overview of the WEST program provides an introduction to the WEST special issue of Deep-Sea Research, including the motivation for WEST, a summary of study components, an integrative synthesis of major research results to-date, and background on conditions during field studies in May–June 2001 (the upwelling period on which this special issue is focused).  相似文献   

20.
We present a numerical model of Black Sea circulation based on primitive equations with improved spatial resolution in the coastal zone. The model equations are formulated in a two-pole orthogonal coordinate system with arbitrary locations of the poles and a vertical σ coordinate. Increased horizontal resolution is gained by displacing the pole into the vicinity of the separated subdomain. The problem is solved over a grid with a variable step. The northern coordinate pole is displaced to the vicinity of Gelendzhik; the grid step varies from 150 m in the coastal zone to 4.6 km in the main basin. We simulated the fields of currents, sea level, temperature, and salinity under the given atmospheric forcing in 2007. The model is capable of reproducing the large-scale Black Sea circulation and submesoscale variations in the coastal currents.  相似文献   

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