共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 515 毫秒
1.
Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (> 20 years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500 m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000 ×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters. 相似文献
2.
A coastal structure is usually designed with the final objective to guarantee its functionality and stability throughout its life cycle. Regarding stability, the three main failure modes are sliding, overturning and failure of the foundations. To accomplish the design objectives, a design sea state is usually used when calculating the loads and scour around the structure. This design sea state corresponds to a certain sea state with specific return period values of a significant wave height. However, the combination of different simultaneous sea state parameters can produce other critical situations compromising the stability of the structure which then require the calculation of long time series of wave forces corresponding to long-term historical wave situations. Moreover, a design force associated to a certain return period can be defined from the time series of the stability parameters. The most accurate techniques which can be used to estimate structure stability are based on numerical and physical models, but these are very time consuming and the calculation of long time series is therefore unfeasible. Here, we propose a hybrid methodology to transform wave conditions into wave forces acting upon vertical structures and scour around it. The methodology consists of a selection of a subset of sea states representative of wave climate at the structure location, using a maximum dissimilarity algorithm, The wave forces acting upon the structure and scour around it, for the wave situations selected, are then estimated as is the reconstruction of the calculated parameters corresponding to historical sea states using an interpolation technique based on radial basis function. The validation of the results, through a direct comparison between reconstructed series and analytically (semi-empirical formulations) calculated ones, confirms the ability of the developed methodology to reconstruct time series of stability parameters on vertical breakwaters. This methodology allows its application to numerical and physical models. 相似文献
3.
Accurate wave climate characterization, which is vital to understand wave-driven coastal processes and to design coastal and offshore structures, requires the availability of long term data series. Where existing data are sparse, synthetically generated time series offer a practical alternative. The main purpose of this paper is to propose a methodology to simulate multivariate hourly sea state time series that preserve the statistical characteristics of the existing empirical data. This methodology combines different techniques such as univariate ARMAs, autoregressive logistic regression and K-means clusterization algorithms, and is able to take into account different time and space scales. The proposed methodology can be broken down into three interrelated steps: i) simulation of sea level pressure fields, ii) simulation of daily mean sea conditions time series and iii) simulation of hourly sea state time series. Its effectiveness is demonstrated by synthetically generating multivariate hourly sea states from a specific location near the Spanish Coast. The direct comparison between simulated and empirical time series confirms the ability of the developed methodology to generate multivariate hourly time series of sea states. Finally, the potential of the proposed methodology to simulate multivariate time series at multiple locations and incorporate climate change issues is discussed. 相似文献
4.
Recent wave reanalysis databases require the application of techniques capable of managing huge amounts of information. In this paper, several clustering and selection algorithms: K-Means (KMA), self-organizing maps (SOM) and Maximum Dissimilarity (MDA) have been applied to analyze trivariate hourly time series of met-ocean parameters (significant wave height, mean period, and mean wave direction). A methodology has been developed to apply the aforementioned techniques to wave climate analysis, which implies data pre-processing and slight modifications in the algorithms. Results show that: a) the SOM classifies the wave climate in the relevant “wave types” projected in a bidimensional lattice, providing an easy visualization and probabilistic multidimensional analysis; b) the KMA technique correctly represents the average wave climate and can be used in several coastal applications such as longshore drift or harbor agitation; c) the MDA algorithm allows selecting a representative subset of the wave climate diversity quite suitable to be implemented in a nearshore propagation methodology. 相似文献
5.
Nicolas Chini Peter Stansby James Leake Judith Wolf Jonah Roberts-Jones Jason Lowe 《Coastal Engineering》2010,57(11-12):973-984
In coastal areas, offshore wave propagation towards the shore is influenced by water depth variations, due to sea bed bathymetry, tides and surges. Considering implications of climate change both on atmospheric forcing and sea level rise, a simple methodology involving numerical modelling is implemented to compute inshore waves from 1960 to 2099. Simulations take into account five scenarios of linear sea level rise and one climatic scenario for storm surges and offshore waves. The methodology is applied to the East Anglia coast (UK). Extreme event analysis is performed to estimate climate change implication on inshore waves and the occurrence of extreme events. It is shown, for this coastal region, that wave statistics are sensitive to the trend in sea level rise, and that the climate change scenario leads to a significant increase of extreme wave heights in the northern part of the domain. For nearshore points, the increase of the mean sea level alters not only extreme wave heights but also the frequency of occurrence of extreme wave conditions. 相似文献
6.
In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions. 相似文献
7.
Jacobus P. Le Roux Zeki Demirbilek Marysia Brodalka Burghard W. Flemming 《Geo-Marine Letters》2010,30(5):549-560
The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea
states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide
an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle
velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation
can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal
profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal
water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC,
which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments,
the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly
program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists.
It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also
serve as an educational tool. 相似文献
8.
Swagata Bisoi 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2017,35(7):905-920
Global warming is expected to change the wind and wave patterns at a significant level, which may lead to conditions outside current design criteria of monopile supported offshore wind turbine (OWT). This study examines the impact of climate change on the dynamic behavior and future safety of an OWT founded in clay incorporating dynamic soil–structure interaction. A statistical downscaling model is used to generate the time series of future wind speed and wave height at local level. The responses and fatigue life of OWT are estimated for present and future periods and extent of change in design is investigated at offshore location along the west coast of India. Wind speed, wave height, and wave period data are collected from the buoy deployed by Indian National Centre for Ocean Information Services and the future climate for the next 30 years is simulated using the general circulation model corresponding to Special Report on Emission Scenarios A1B scenario. The OWT is modeled as Euler–Bernoulli beam and soil–structure interaction is incorporated using nonlinear p-y springs. This study shows that changes in design of OWT are needed due to increased responses owing to the effect of climate change. Fatigue life is found to be decreased because of climate change. 相似文献
9.
Spatial distribution of random wave overtopping water behind coastal structures was investigated using a numerical model based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver (RANS) and Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme (RANS-VOF). The computed spatial distributions of wave overtopping water behind the structure agree well with the measurements by Pullen et al (2008) for a vertical wall and Lykke Andersen and Burcharth (2006) for a 1:2 sea dike. A semi-analytical model was derived to relate spatial distribution of wave overtopping water behind coastal structures to landward ground level, velocity and layer thickness on the crest. This semi-analytical model agrees reasonably well with both numerical model results and measurements close to coastal structures. Our numerical model results suggest that the proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with a seaward slope when it is less than 1:3 and decreases with a seaward slope when it gets steeper. The proportion of wave overtopping water passing a landward location increases with landward ground level and overtopping discharge. It also increases with the product of incident wave height and wavelength, but decreases with increasing relative structure freeboard and crest width. We also found that the extent of hazard area due to wave overtopping is significantly reduced by using a permeable structure crown. Findings in this study will enable engineers to establish the extent of hazard zones due to wave overtopping behind coastal structures. 相似文献
10.
沿海水位和大尺度气候状态——降尺度技术在日本列岛的应用 相似文献
11.
A.W. Ratsimandresy M.G. Sotillo J.C. Carretero Albiach E. Álvarez Fanjul H. Hajji 《Coastal Engineering》2008
A set of 44-year (1958–2001) homogeneous and high-resolution hindcasts of atmospheric, sea level residuals, and wave states was performed for the Mediterranean Basin within the framework of the HIPOCAS European Project. To this aim, different numerical models were used. As a first step, a Mediterranean high-resolution atmospheric database, suitable to provide realistic and homogeneous forcing for ocean hindcast runs was generated. The HIPOCAS atmospheric database was created by means of dynamical downscaling from the global reanalysis NCEP, using for that the limited area model SN-REMO along with a spectral nudging technique. In a second stage, different Mediterranean oceanic hindcasts were performed. On one hand a long-term database of sea state over the western Mediterranean was generated by means of the wave model WAM and on the other hand a sea level residual database containing storm surge events was obtained from a long-term integration of the HAMSOM model over the entire basin. The three different hindcast runs have been exhaustively validated. On that score, various simulated parameters have been compared to both satellite and in situ measurements. Such comparisons provide a measure of the skills of the different simulated fields to realistically reproduce the observed features. Once these skills are evaluated, a study of the ocean and atmospheric climate trends as well as the interannual variability for the whole 44-year period was carried out with the hindcasted data. The reliability of the data as shown by its comparison to measurements and a proven temporal homogeneity over the 44 years of simulation make the Mediterranean HIPOCAS ocean–atmosphere hindcasted database a useful tool for studies focused on regional climatic variability, as well as for further applications in coastal and environmental decision processes in the Mediterranean area. 相似文献
12.
We investigated the sea level response of the Japan Sea to changes in atmospheric pressure using barotropic shallow water
models driven by idealized synoptic pressure forcing. The regional response lags behind the synoptic pressure forcing because
the adjustment is slowly established by water exchange through narrow, shallow straits. The sea level response of the realistic
Japan Sea to the idealized forcing varies with geographical location and shows zonally asymmetric variations in amplitude
and phase. The simulated response is in good agreement with the observed response of sea level recorded at Japanese coastal
tide gauges. The results of a simple one-dimensional model indicate that the zonally asymmetric pattern, with an eastward-propagating
pressure system, is essentially caused by bottom friction in shallow straits. This asymmetry arises if the typical wavelength
of the synoptic pressure system is slightly larger than the spatial scale of the Japan Sea. 相似文献
13.
14.
The detailed reconstruction of the directional spectrum of wind waves from measurements of the wave field is an essential requirement for several applications, including the numerical modeling of wave evolution. Three reconstruction techniques that provide estimates of the directional distribution function D(f,θ), given the one-dimensional frequency spectrum, are compared using data from a coastal locality at the southern Brazilian coast. The techniques are the maximum entropy method (MEM), the Fourier Expansion Method using a cos2 type function (FEMcos) and the Fourier Expansion Method using a sech type function (FEMsech). The main patterns of the wave climate at the study site are qualitatively assessed. Three main sea states, including swell, transition between local sea and swell, and directionally bimodal wind sea, are identified. Time series from three events associated with the main sea states provide test cases for inter comparison of the three reconstruction techniques. Maximum entropy estimates of D(f,θ) provide results that are more consistent than those obtained from the two FEM techniques in all cases considered. 相似文献
15.
再论台风波浪的波型及其与海岸工程设计波浪要素的关系 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文以实测台风波浪资料对台风影响过程中固定点波浪能量集中度的变化和有效波陡的变化进行分析，得出华南近岸浅水区台风波浪的波型与台风中心位置的统计关系，并进一步阐明了台风过程中固定点出现较大台风波浪的波型是风浪以及用于海岸工程设计的台风波浪亦为风浪的结论。文中还讨论了台风波浪波型对海岸工程建设中的设计波高、周期等要素取值的影响。 相似文献
16.
17.
Steven A. Hughes 《Coastal Engineering》1993,20(3-4)
Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method. 相似文献
18.
本文基于海浪波折射现象和浅水波理论,提出了一种基于单景高分辨率光学遥感影像的浅海地形提取方法。首先,基于浅水波理论推导出适用于浅海区域的水深与海浪波长、频率的定量关系,针对近岸光学遥感图像复杂的海浪特征,讨论了两种海浪波长提取方法,即FFT方法和剖面线法。然后提出了基于长距离波长波动分析的海浪频率计算方法,解决了单景遥感影像的波浪频率计算难题。最后,利用单景QuickBird高分辨率光学遥感影像,以海南岛三亚湾为研究区域进行了应用实验,结果表明,对12m以浅的浅海区域,在不需要任何辅助参数的情况下,反演获得了浅海地形(DEM),经与1:25000比例尺海图的水深对比验证,地形趋势吻合良好,反演水深的均方根误差为1.07m,相对水深误差为16.2%,表明该方法适合于浅海水下地形的提取,且具有无需实测水深数据和环境参数的支持的优点。 相似文献
19.
基于加密的非结构三角网格，以Holland模型风场叠加美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）海面风场构造的合成风场驱动第三代浅水波浪数值模型（SWAN）对2017年影响闽东海域的“纳沙”和“泰利”台风过程进行数值模拟，并运用浮标站的实测数据对模拟结果进行验证.结果表明，模型计算的风速、有效波高与实测值符合较好，合成风场能较好地模拟台风期间的风速变化过程，SWAN模式能够合理地再现闽东沿海台风浪的时空分布特征.由模拟结果可见：台风“纳沙”中心越过台湾岛进入台湾海峡北部海面，受海峡地形的约束，其波浪场呈NE—SW向椭圆状分布，北部海域的浪高大于南部，闽东沿海遍布大范围的巨浪到狂浪；超强台风“泰利”未登陆闽东，当其台风中心与大陆的距离最近时，海面波浪场分布与台风风场结构一致，台风中心附近海域为14 m以上的怒涛区，巨浪遍布于闽东沿海.研究结果可为闽东沿海台风浪灾害预警和应急管理提供技术支撑和参考依据. 相似文献
20.
The performance of coastal vertical seawalls in extreme weather events is studied numerically, aiming to provide guidance in designing and reassessing coastal structures with vertical wall. The extreme wave run-up and the pressure on the vertical seawall are investigated extensively. A time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is coupled with a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian technique as a time marching technique. Focused wave groups are generated by a piston wave-maker in the numerical wave tank using a wave focusing technique for accurately reproducing extreme sea states. An acceleration-potential scheme is used to calculate the transient wave loads. Comparisons with experimental data show that the extended numerical model is able to accurately predict extreme wave run-ups and pressures on a vertical seawall. The effects of the wave spectrum bandwidth, the wall position and the wave nonlinearity on the wave run-up and the maximum wave load on the vertical seawall are investigated by doing parametric studies. 相似文献