共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
A. A. Slepyshev 《Physical Oceanography》2005,15(5):275-288
In the Boussinesq approximation, for topographic waves entrapped by a sloping bottom, we determine mean currents induced by
a wave due to nonlinearity with regard for turbulent viscosity and diffusion. We determine the thickness of the bottom boundary
layer, the vertical turbulent exchange coefficients, and turbulent stresses on the upper boundary of the boundary layer depending
on the parameters of the wave. In the diffusion approximation, we find the vertical distribution of the concentration of sediments
suspended by the wave and the flow rates of sediments along and perpendicular to the isobaths.
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Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 5, pp. 13–24, September–October, 2005. 相似文献
2.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study weakly nonlinear topographic waves trapped by a flat slope of arbitrary orientation. We compute the mean currents induced by the waves due to the nonlinearity in the quadratic approximation with respect to the wave amplitude in the presence of dissipation of the wave energy into the turbulent motion. In the diffusion approximation, we determine the vertical distribution of the concentration of wave-suspended sediments. It is shown that the consumption of sediments across the isobaths is directed downward along the slope. At the same time, the consumption of sediments along the isobaths has the same direction as the projection of the horizontal wave vector. 相似文献
3.
利用2019年7月在长江口科学考察实验研究夏季航段(NORC2019-03-02)中获得的MSS90L湍流剖面仪的直接观测数据,本文计算并分析了该断面的湍动能耗散率ε和垂向湍扩散系数KZ的分布情况。湍动能耗散率的大小为1.72×10?10～2.95×10?5 W/kg;垂向湍扩散系数的大小为3.24×10?7～4.55×10?2 m2/s。湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数的分布相似,均为上层最强,底层次之,中层最弱。上层由于风应力的作用,使得湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数较大;温跃层处层化较强,抑制了湍动能的耗散和垂向上的湍混合。盐度锋面的次级环流会促使低盐水团脱离,锋面引起的垂向环流会加强海洋的湍混合。低盐水团与外界的能量交换较少,湍动能耗散率较弱。长江口海区存在明显的上升流和下降流,它们是由锋面的次级环流产生的;上升流和下降流的存在促进湍动能的耗散与湍混合。 相似文献
4.
A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone. 相似文献
5.
By the method of asymptotic multiscale expansions in the Boussinesq approximation, we study nonlinear effects observed in
the process of propagation of internal waves with regard for the turbulent viscosity and diffusion. We determine the decrement
of attenuation of waves and the boundary-layer solutions at the bottom and on the free surface. The wave-induced mean current
is found in the second order of smallness in the wave steepness. The coefficients of the nonlinear Schr?dinger equation are
obtained for the envelope of the wave packet. It is shown that a weakly nonlinear plane wave is stable under longitudinal
modulation in the long-wave limit. If the wavelength is smaller than a certain critical value, then the wave is unstable under
modulation. 相似文献
6.
Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t... 相似文献
7.
Using the recently developed expansion formulae for wave structure interaction problems, the scattering of surface water waves by a semi-infinite floating membrane due to abrupt change in bottom topography is analyzed. Both the cases of finite and infinite steps are analyzed. In the present paper, the analysis is based on the linearized theory of water waves and small amplitude membrane response. Combining the linearized kinematic and dynamic surface conditions on the water surface with the dynamic pressure condition on the membrane, a third order differential equation is derived to describe the membrane covered free surface condition. General wave energy relation for wave scattering by floating horizontal membrane is derived by the application of law of conservation of energy flux and alternately by the direct application of Green's second identity. In the floating membrane covered region, the wave energy density is a combination of the kinetic and potential energy density due to the surface gravity waves, and the surface energy density which is due to the existence of the floating membrane on the free surface. Gravity wave transformations due to an abrupt change in bottom topography in the presence of a floating membrane in finite water depth are analyzed based on shallow water approximation. Numerical results are computed and analyzed to understand the wave transformation due to the floating membrane when there is an abrupt change in topography in different cases. 相似文献
8.
The method of asymptotic multiscale expansion is applied to determine the mean current velocity and density fields induced
by a packet of internal waves. In the limiting case of a weakly non-linear plane wave, heat, salt, and impulse vertical transport
is conditioned by the vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity, which is non-zero, when turbulent viscosity and diffusion
are considered. As the wave period decreases, the wave fluxes of heat, salt, and impulse increase. In shallow waters, these
fluxes become more vigorous and may be comparable to the respective turbulent flows or even to be more powerful.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
9.
海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。 相似文献
10.
WANG Lixia SUN Yinglan ZHENG Lianyuan Associate Professor Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China.Professor Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China. Lecturer Insititute of Environmental Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao China. 《中国海洋工程》1998,(3)
A three-dimensional,first order turbulence closure,thermal diffusion model is described inthis paper.The governing equations consist of an equation of continuity,three components of momentum,conservation equations for salt,temperature and subgridscale energy,and an equation of state.In the mod-el,according to the hypothesis of Kolmogorov and Prandtl,the viscosity coefficient of turbulent flow ofhomogeneous fluid is related to the local turbulent energy,and the horizontal and vertical exchangecoefficients of mass,heat and momentum are computed with the introduction of subgridscale turbulenceenergy.The governing equations are solved by finite difference techniques.This model is applied to theJiaozhou bay to predict thermal pollution by the Huangdao power plant.An instantaneous tidal currentfield is computed,then the distribution of temperature increment is predicted,and finally the effect of windstress on thermal discharge is discussed. 相似文献
11.
P. C. Sinha Y. R. Rao S. K. Dube C. R. Murthy A. K. Chatterjee 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1999,48(6):649
This paper has two purposes. The first is to study the circulation and salinity in Hooghly Estuary, along the east coast of India and the second is to compare the performance of two turbulence closure schemes by modelling it. A breadth averaged numerical model using a sigma co-ordinate system in the vertical is briefly described. Vertical diffusion of momentum and salt are parameterized by a simple first-order turbulent closure or by a one equation model for turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) which uses a specified mixing length. The results are compared with the available neap and spring tide observations along the estuary for both low and high discharge periods.The computed elevations and currents are in reasonable agreement with the observations showing no major differences in vertical current profiles by both the turbulent schemes. However, there is a slight under-prediction of bottom currents. The salinity profiles predicted by TKE model show better matching with observations. Statistical tests are also conducted to study the comparative performance of the turbulent closure schemes. The maintenance of two layer structure in residual currents and salt variability are also studied by using the model. 相似文献
12.
A. A. Slepyshev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2016,52(3):301-308
Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account. 相似文献
13.
通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。 相似文献
14.
《Ocean Modelling》2011,39(3-4):230-243
A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated. 相似文献
15.
Masaaki Fukuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1974,30(2):67-76
The suspended matter in seawater near the bottom is distributed by the effects of sinking and diffusion. The author developed a method of estimation of the vertical eddy diffusivity near the sea bottom and the particle size distribution of bottom sediment, in the case of equilibrium state. This estimation was made by the comparison of measured and computed vertical distribution of beam attenuation. The parameters which were used for the computation were (1) median of the particle size distribution of bottom sediment, assuming that the particle size was a log-normal distribution, and (2) the proportional constant of vertical eddy diffusivity which was proportional to the height from the bottom.As the suspended matter in seawater contains particles of different sizes, the computation of the diffusion and beam attenuation was made for each particle size, and summarizing the results, the vertical distribution of beam attenuation coefficient was computed.In order to estimate the beam attenuation in high particle concentration, an equation by which the effect of overlapping of particle shadow in the light beam was eliminated, was used. 相似文献
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):53-80
In this paper, a two-dimensional multi-scale turbulence model is proposed to study breaking waves. The purpose of developing this model is to produce a relatively accurate model with moderate computer requirements. The free surface is tracked by the VOF technique, the log-law profile for the mean velocity is applied at the bottom. Comparing with the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes models (RANS), the present model shows improving agreement with experimental measurements in terms of surface elevations, particle velocities, wave height distributions and undertow profiles. The subgrid scale (SGS) turbulent transport mechanism is also discussed in the paper. It is found that turbulent production and dissipation are of the same order, but turbulent production is primarily located at the wavefront and above the wave trough, whereas turbulent dissipation is primarily located at the back face of a wave, indicating that in these regions, the assumption of equilibrium is not correct. Below the trough level, the local equilibrium assumption is reasonable. Turbulent convection and diffusion are of the same order at the trough level. Above the trough level, turbulent convection dominates. Under the spilling breaking wave, turbulent kinetic energy is continue to dissipate in the bore region, whereas under the plunging breaking wave, the turbulent kinetic energy is dissipated very rapidly within one wave period. 相似文献
17.
An Extended Mild-Slope Equation 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
PAN Junning 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(4):459-471
On the assumption that the vortex and the vertical velocity component of the current aresmall,a mild-slope equation for wave propagation on non-uniform flows is deduced from the basichydrodynamic equations,with the terms of (V_hh)~2 and (V_h~2)h included in the equation.The terms of bot-tom friction,wind energy input and wave nonlinearity are also introduced into the equation.The wind en-ergy input functions for wind waves and swells are separately considered by adopting Wen′s(1989)empiri-cal formula for wind waves and Snyder′s observation results for swells.Thus,an extended mild-slope equa-tion is obtained,in which the effects of refraction,diffraction,reflection,current,bottom friction,wind en-ergy input and wave nonlinearity are considered synthetically. 相似文献
18.
The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
19.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study the nonlinear effects observed in the process of propagation of internal waves in
the presence of turbulence. The space damping factor of the waves is evaluated. The Stokes drift velocity and the Euler velocity
of the mean current induced by waves due to the presence of nonlinearity are determined. It is shown that the principal contribution
to the wave transfer is made by the horizontal velocity of the induced current. The Stokes drift is significant only near
the bottom. The vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity obtained with regard for the turbulent viscosity is nonzero. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(10):1021-1049
A numerical process-based model to forecast beach profile morphodynamics has been developed. In the present paper, an analysis of various modelling approaches and key parametrizations involved in the estimation of the wave-driven current and the suspended sediment concentration is carried out.Several resolution techniques for the 1DV horizontal (i.e., in the x-direction perpendicular to coastline) momentum equation governing the Mean Horizontal Velocity (MHV) are analysed. In the first kind of techniques, the mean horizontal velocity is computed from the momentum equation, whereas the Mean Water Level (MWL) is computed using a parametrization of the depth-averaged momentum equation. Two boundary or integral conditions are thus needed. In the second kind, both mean horizontal velocity and mean water level gradient in the x-direction are the unknowns of the momentum equation, thus, three boundary or integral conditions are needed. Various additional conditions are discussed. We show that using a technique of the first kind is equivalent to imposing the difference between the surface and the bottom shear stresses in the 1D vertical equation. Both techniques lead to results that are in good agreement with the Delta Flume experimental data, provided the Stokes drift flow discharge is imposed as an additional condition. The influence of the breaking roller model and of the turbulent viscosity parametrization are also analysed.Suspended sediment transport by the mean current and wave-induced bedload transport are taken into account in the sediment flux. Three turbulent diffusivity parametrizations are compared for suspended sediment concentration estimations. A linear profile for the turbulent diffusivity taking into account the wave bottom shear stress and the surface wave breaking turbulence production is shown to give the best results. Using experimental data, we put forward the poor estimation of the bottom sediment concentration given by the three implemented parametrizations. We thus propose a new parametrization relying on a Shields parameter based on the breaking roller induced surface shear stress. Using this new parametrization, the bottom profile used in the tests keeps its two bars which disappear otherwise. However, the morphodynamical model still overestimates the bars offshore motion, a bias already observed in other models. 相似文献