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1.
This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies. 相似文献
2.
This work deals with the estimation of the bispectrum of wind waves during severe storms containing abnormal or freak waves. It presents the basic definitions of higher-order spectra and of the bispectra in particular and further suggests how to interpret some of the results to identify non-linearity in the wave time series. Different estimation methods are used and compared so as to identify the differences in the estimated bispectra that results from the estimation procedure and the ones that result from the physics of the sea states. It is found that as a result of the second-order self-coupling the phase distribution of the wind wave during the severe storms differs from the uniform one and is well approximated by the distribution proposed by Tayfun and Lo [1989. Envelope, phase and narrow-band models of sea waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Engineering 115(5), 594–613.]. 相似文献
3.
This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves. 相似文献
4.
Petya G. Petrova 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(4):658-672
The paper presents results for the distribution of wave heights from laboratory generated bimodal sea states. Data collected at the DHI offshore basin are analyzed and compared with results based on wave records from the MARINTEK offshore basin. The comparisons are done for three groups of mixed sea states: wind-sea dominated, swell-dominated and energy-equivalent, determined on the basis of the parameter sea-swell energy ratio (SSER), which have been generated according to the model of Guedes Soares (1984). In some sea states abnormal or freak waves have been observed.The quasi-determinism theory of Boccotti is used to expand some linear narrowband models to second order, thus providing validation of the adequacy of the equations to represent the linear components of the wave heights. Also, the data are compared with the predictions of a third order model using as a nonlinear correction the coefficient of kurtosis. Due to the coexistence of wind-sea and swell, the core of the autocovariance function in some cases demonstrates a global minimum which is the second local minimum in the sequence. This can affect the fitting ability of distributions whose parameters depend on the form of the autocorrelation function or its envelope.The results for MARINTEK and DHI data show similar patterns of fit between predicted and observed exceedance probabilities for the considered classes of bimodal spectra. 相似文献
5.
南海北部海域夏季台风活动频繁,对海上生产活动和人民生命财产安全造成极大威胁,由于台风路径的不确定性,其中心附近区域的风浪观测资料十分稀少。中国气象局(China Meteorological Administration, CMA)热带气旋最佳路径数据显示2017年10月强台风“卡努”中心经过南海北部陆坡的SF301浮标,该浮标完整记录了台风过境的风浪数据。利用浮标观测资料,分析了强台风“卡努”过境期间的风和海浪特征。观测结果表明,“卡努”经过浮标时,中心气压为959.9 hPa,风速随时间呈双峰分布,前、后眼壁区的10 min平均风速分别为30.2 m/s和24.9 m/s, 1 s极大风速分别为44.2和38.6 m/s。海浪以风浪为主,观测有效波高和最大波高最大值分别为10.8和14.3 m,滞后最大风速30 min,波向和风向变化趋势一致。台风过境期间,有效波高与海面10 m风速接近线性关系,非台风期间二者呈二次多项式关系。海浪无因次波高和周期呈幂指数关系,无论是台风期间还是非台风期间二者关系十分接近Toba提出的3/2指数律。 相似文献
6.
7.
As concluded from physical theory and laboratory experiment,it is widely accepted that nonlinearities of sea state play an important role in the formation of rogue waves;however,the sea states and corresponding nonlinearities of real-world rogue wave events remain poorly understood.Three rogue waves were recorded by a directional buoy located in the East China Sea during Typhoon Trami in August 2013.This study used the WAVEWATCHⅢmodel to simulate the sea state conditions pertaining to when and where those rogue waves were observed,based on which a comprehensive and full-scale analysis was performed.From the perspectives of wind and wave fields,wave system tracking,High-Order Spectral method simulation,and some characteristic sea state parameters,we concluded that the rogue waves occurred in sea states dominated by second-order nonlinearities.Moreover,third-order modulational instabilities were suppressed in these events because of the developed or fully developed sea state determined by the typhoon wave system.The method adopted in this study can provide comprehensive and full-scale analysis of rogue waves in the real world.The case studied in this paper is not considered unique,and rules could be found and confirmed in relation to other typhoon sea states through the application of our proposed method. 相似文献
8.
Operational activities in the ocean like planning for structural repairs or fishing expeditions require real time prediction of waves over typical time duration of say a few hours. Such predictions can be made by using a numerical model or a time series model employing continuously recorded waves. This paper presents another option to do so and it is based on a different time series approach in which the input is in the form of preceding wind speed and wind direction observations. This would be useful for those stations where the costly wave buoys are not deployed and instead only meteorological buoys measuring wind are moored. The technique employs alternative artificial intelligence approaches of an artificial neural network (ANN), genetic programming (GP) and model tree (MT) to carry out the time series modeling of wind to obtain waves. Wind observations at four offshore sites along the east coast of India were used. For calibration purpose the wave data was generated using a numerical model. The predicted waves obtained using the proposed time series models when compared with the numerically generated waves showed good resemblance in terms of the selected error criteria. Large differences across the chosen techniques of ANN, GP, MT were not noticed. Wave hindcasting at the same time step and the predictions over shorter lead times were better than the predictions over longer lead times. The proposed method is a cost effective and convenient option when a site-specific information is desired. 相似文献
9.
The wave groups are studied by both conventional wave analysis methods and by the non-stationary Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) method. Full-scale wave records containing abnormal waves are used. Instantaneous quantities, such as envelope, phase and frequency, are adopted to study the wave grouping. A refined definition of wave group is proposed considering that the wave process is simultaneously amplitude and frequency modulated. The validation of the proposed definition is conducted by analysis of numerical simulation data. Group parameters are proposed based on the time-frequency distribution of energy. An attempt is made to find the relationship between the characteristics of abnormal waves and the group characteristics. 相似文献
10.
A characterization of extreme wave parameters during extratropical cyclones in the Northern hemisphere is made from WAM wave model hindcasts. In February 2007 two extratropical storms were observed in the North Atlantic and the wave fields associated with them are modeled in this paper. Wave buoy and satellite altimetry data were used to validate the WAM hindcast results. The distribution of the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI), kurtosis and the ratio of maximum wave height to significant wave height (abnormality index) around the eye of the two extratropical cyclones is studied. It is found that under these conditions the BFI and kurtosis are significantly larger mainly in the fourth quadrant and also when the wind direction is aligned with the wave propagation direction. In these regions the probability of occurrence of abnormal waves is higher. 相似文献
11.
《海洋技术学报》2023,(2)
本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11 月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据, 对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析, 并利用origin 软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明： 1#、2# 浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE, 常浪向有效波高均以0.2 ～ 0.4 m 小浪及3 ～ 4 s 短周期为主,有效波高1 m 以上较大波浪极少出现; 该海域波浪以风浪为主, 波浪破碎速度较快, 有效波高与风速相关性较强, 相关系数r 为0.71, 风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性, 该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。 相似文献
12.
The existence of empty envelope excursions (EEE) brings error to the envelope approach of wave group statistics, which identifies wave group by envelope upcrossing of a critical level. A group number correction scheme is suggested in this paper to exclude EEE from wave group statistics. To this end, the Ditlevson and Lindgren [J. Sound Vib. 122 (1988) 571] theory about the fraction of empty excursion envelopes (FEEE) is examined to see if it fits for ocean waves. The sea waves are simulated with Monte Carlo method and with P-M and JONSWAP spectrums. The values of FEEE of the simulated waves are investigated and compared with the theory of Ditlevson and Lindgren. The comparison shows that, at the second-order approximation, theoretical predictions of FEEE are close to those derived from simulations. This approximate analytical expression of FEEE is then employed to form a group number correction scheme. Comparisons between numerical and theoretical results of wave group properties show that this correction scheme is quite effective. 相似文献
13.
WANG Wei QIAN Chengchun
Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Associate Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Based on observed wind waves,the relationships between wave spectrum products and wavecharacteristics are established successfully,and the apparent energy distribution of sea waves is expressed as afunction of wave characteristics. 相似文献
14.
海浪破碎使得海面产生飞沫水滴,由于飞沫水滴的存在改变着大气和海洋之间的能量传输。飞沫生产函数一般认为是水滴初始半径和风速的函数,但海浪时刻存在于海-气界面,仅仅考虑海面风的作用,而忽略海浪的影响是不够完善的。白冠覆盖率是海浪破碎的重要特征参数,有研究者发现白冠覆盖率与海面风速和海浪均存在相关性。本文尝试从白冠覆盖率出发,构建飞沫水滴的生成函数参数化方案,将描述不同飞沫水滴半径的飞沫生成函数基于白冠覆盖率参数有机整合,然后结合白冠覆盖率和海浪状态的关系,利用实验室观测数据,分析不同海浪状态条件下海浪对飞沫生成函数的影响。研究结果表明,新的考虑波浪效应的飞沫生成函数可以合理地描述不同海浪状态条件下飞沫水滴的生成过程。 相似文献
15.
本文对海-气边界层波致风机制的相关理论进行了阐述,并利用ERA-40再分析资料给出了太平洋谱峰速度、波龄、波陡等描述涌浪和波致风机制物理量的年际和季节空间分布特征。分析表明:东太平洋赤道地区等海域涌浪速度最大且涌浪由南向北传播明显;太平洋波边界层高度基本呈现出东高西低的分布形势;波致风机制主要发生在赤道热带海域,北半球夏季波致风机制偏强,冬季偏弱,南半球反之;北半球北部海域夏季更易发生波致风机制,赤道附近海域相反;南海为风浪与涌浪组成的混合浪,对其波候等相关研究有必要分开进行讨论。 相似文献
16.
The paper considers the effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage at sea. This is made by using the logarithmic mean wind velocity profile including a stability function as well as adopting a recent wave age dependent sea surface roughness formula. The results are valid for wind waves in local equilibrium with the steady wind. Examples of results demonstrate clear effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage. Comparisons are also made with field measurements by Sugihara et al. [Sugihara, Y., et al., 2007. Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions. J. Mar. Syst. 66, 47–60], representing unstable air stability conditions. Although the data basis is limited, the wave age independent Charnock sea roughness based predictions capture the main features of the observed whitecap coverage, suggesting a stronger dependence on air stability than on wave age in the data. 相似文献
17.
It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels. 相似文献
18.
This paper analyses 10 years of wave data from the Mediterranean Spanish (Catalan) coast considering the mean wave climate and storm events from the standpoint of wind-wave momentum transfer and wave prediction. The data, registered by a buoy at about 12 km from the coastline, revealed two main groups of wave storms, with NW and E directions. NW storms correspond to a fetch-limited situation since the intense wind blows from land. Low-pressure centres located over the Mediterranean Sea produce easterly storms. Near the coast the eastern winds from the sea are replaced by NW winds coming from meteorological patterns over northern Spain and south-western France. Wave storms are classified and studied to obtain their main features (including spectral width, wave length, wave age and bimodality) and discussed in terms of wind-wave momentum transfer for operational wave predictions. Observations show a complex coastal wave climate. Fetch-limited storms presented smaller spectral widths while varying wind situations presented larger widths due to the presence of bimodal spectra. These wave features are highly relevant for wind–ocean momentum transfer and, thus, for current and wave predictions. The spectral width proved to be a good indicator of sea complexity and is thus applicable for improved wind drag estimations. A new drag coefficient formulation is proposed, based on existing wind dependent drag expressions, but including also spectral wave properties (a spectral width parameter) that highlights the characteristics of wind-wave generation under pre-existing swell. Such a formulation, once properly validated with field observations, is expected to improve wind-wave predictions. 相似文献
19.
The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. 相似文献
20.
We consider the influence of the sea surface state on the backscattered radar cross section and the accuracy of the wind speed retrieval from the scatterometer data. We used a joint set of radars and buoys to determine the type of sea waves. Three types of sea waves were distinguished: developing wind waves, fully developed wind waves, and mixed sea. It is shown that the retrieval error of the near surface wind speed using a one-parameter algorithm is minimal in the case of fully developed wind waves. We compared these data with the results of radio-altimeter data analysis and showed that in both cases underestimation of the retrieval wind speed exists for developing wind waves and overestimation occurs for mixed sea. A variety of swell parameters (length of the dominating wave, swell height, swell age) significantly influence the backscattered radar cross section, leading to a growth in the mean square error of the retrieved wind speed during vertical sounding (radio-altimeter data), and only slightly influence the mean square error of the scatterometer data (medium incidence angles). It is necessary to include the information about the parameters of sea waves in the algorithms and take into account the regional wave properties to increase the accuracy of wind speed retrieval. 相似文献