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1.
Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied. 相似文献
2.
Johan N. Hartnack 《Ocean Engineering》2000,27(4):831
Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth. 相似文献
3.
A coupled-mode model is developed for treating the wave–current–seabed interaction problem, with application to wave scattering by non-homogeneous, steady current over general bottom topography. The vertical distribution of the scattered wave potential is represented by a series of local vertical modes containing the propagating mode and all evanescent modes, plus additional terms accounting for the satisfaction of the free-surface and bottom boundary conditions. Using the above representation, in conjunction with unconstrained variational principle, an improved coupled system of differential equations on the horizontal plane, with respect to the modal amplitudes, is derived. In the case of small-amplitude waves, a linearised version of the above coupled-mode system is obtained, generalizing previous results by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [J Fluid Mech 1999;389:275–301] for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions. Keeping only the propagating mode in the vertical expansion of the wave potential, the present system reduces to an one-equation model, that is shown to be compatible with mild-slope model concerning wave–current interaction over slowly varying topography, and in the case of no current it exactly reduces to the modified mild-slope equation. The present coupled-mode system is discretized on the horizontal plane by using second-order finite differences and numerically solved by iterations. Results are presented for various representative test cases demonstrating the usefulness of the model, as well as the importance of the first evanescent modes and the additional sloping-bottom mode when the bottom slope is not negligible. The analytical structure of the present model facilitates its extension to fully non-linear waves, and to wave scattering by currents with more general structure. 相似文献
4.
利用海底地震仪数据分析台风对海底环境噪音的影响 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
在海底布设的海底地震仪（OBS）能比较清晰地记录到海底的环境噪音，而台风可以直接或间接的产生在海底传播的弹性波，从而影响海底的环境噪音，并在较大程度上影响OBS的数据记录。本文通过分析台风对工作区的整个影响过程中OBS记录数据的振幅变化，再选择合适的滤波方式，首次发现台风产生的风浪及涌浪在短周期海底地震仪的记录数据上有良好的表现特征，指出了台风对海底环境噪音的另一种可能的影响方式，并由此得出：1）台风产生的风浪和涌浪对海底环境噪音的影响模式不同；2）风浪和涌浪所加强的海底环境噪音的范围和程度不同；3）短周期OBS可以比较清晰的记录涌浪信息，其周期主要是6—8 s，且能量稳定（简称“8秒现象”）。这三点结论为后期的海洋地震研究和海洋学其他研究提供经验与借鉴。 相似文献
5.
This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave breaking criteria and the equations of water particles motion, the wave deformation and the continuous wave breaking processes for the progressive water waves propagating on a sloping bottom can be derived. A series of experiments are also conducted to compare with the theoretical solution. The results show that the present solution can reasonably describe the plunging or spilling wave breaking phenomenon. 相似文献
6.
7.
This paper provides an experimental validation of the second-order coupling theory outlined by Yang et al. (Z. Yang, S. Liu, H.B. Bingham and J. Li., 2013. Second-order coupling of numerical and physical wave tanks for 2D irregular waves. Part I: Formulation, implementation and numerical properties, submitted for publication) using 2D irregular waves. This work provides a second-order dispersive correction for the physical wavemaker signal which improves the nonlinear transfer of information between the numerical and physical models compared to the first-order method of Zhang et al. (2007). The important nonlinear parameters and numerical performance were theoretically investigated in Part I. In the present Part II, careful experimental validation is carried out using a sequence of progressively more complex analytical and numerical target waves. The results demonstrate clearly that improved performance is achieved by using the second-order correction. When controlling with a second-order coupling signal, two key points are notable: (i) The higher harmonics underlying the numerical waves are accurately captured and transferred into the physical model. (ii) The second-order behavior leads to an unwanted spurious freely propagating second harmonic that is substantially reduced when compared to an identical wave paddle operating with a first-order coupling signal. Using nonlinear regular (monochromatic), bi-chromatic and irregular wave cases as well as varying coupled wave tank bathymetries, both these aspects are verified over a broad range of wave frequencies and shown to be extensively applicable to physical wave tanks. 相似文献
8.
During Tropical Ocean and Global Atmosphere (TOGA)/Coupled Ocean and Atmosphere Research Experiment (COARE) Intensive Observing Period (IOP), upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCP) and current meters were moored at two equatorial sites (147°E and 154°E) and two off-equatorial sites (2°N and 2°S, 156°E) in the warm pool region of the western equatorial Pacific. Using current data obtained by these moorings, we have shown that there is a dominant signal with a period of about 2 days from the end of November to the middle of December in 1992, except at the equatorial site on 147°E (Ueki et al., 1998). The energy of this quasi-2-day signal for the meridional current is larger than that for the zonal one and the signal has a high coherence between two off-equatorial sites. In this paper, using band-passed time series of the meridional curerent, we investigated characters of the quasi-2-day signal and attempted to interpret this signal as an equatorially trapped wave. Complex empirical orthogonal function (CEOF) analysis reveals two different phase propagating features between the equatorial and off-equatorial site. One is an upward propagating signal, which is dominant near the surface at two off-equatorial sites, and the other is a downward propagating signal, which is dominant near 200 m at the equatorial site. If one interprets the quasi-2-day signal as an equatorially trapped wave, it is suggested that it cannot be explained as a single wave but can be described as the superimposition of several wave signals. The main part of these signals consists of two signals, one caused by a meteorological forcing and another by another factor in the ocean field. 相似文献
9.
Jonathan D. Tuthill Brian T. R. Lewis Jan D. Garmany 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1981,5(1):95-108
The Lopez Island OBS Intercomparison Experiment provided a data set of sufficient spatial density to allow study of the propagation of shot-generated Stoneley waves as well as ambient background noise. The Stoneley waves were observed propagating at velocities of 20 to 50 m s-1, Phase velocities were determined by fitting peaks in the frequency wave number spectrum. Group velocities were calculated by narrowly filtering the data and determining the arrival time of the peak in the frequency packet. Particle displacement plots illustrate the surface wave character of these waves. The analysis of the ambient background noise failed to produce a clearly defined dispersion curve yet it did allow bounds to be placed on the phase velocities (20 to 50 m s-1). The data were modeled using eleven layers overlying a half-space. The results indicated that the top 7 m of the sediment column at Lopez Island is best approximated by two zones. In the upper zone there is a fairly rapid change of shear velocity with depth. This zone overlies a region in which the shear velocity gradient is much lower. Deep ocean background noise recorded by University of Washington ocean bottom seismometers was also examined. Although insufficient data precluded any velocity analysis, definite similarities exist between these data and noise data observed at Lopez Island.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1174. 相似文献
10.
Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data. 相似文献
11.
A Boussinesq model for simulating wave and current interaction 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A new formulation of a pair of Boussinesq equations for three-dimensional nonlinear dispersive shallow-water waves is presented. This set of model equations permits spatial and temporal variations of the bottom topography and the presence of uniform currents. The newly derived equations are used to simulate the propagation of cnoidal waves and their interactions with a uniform current in a wave channel. The modified Euler's predictor-corrector algorithm for time advancing and a central difference representation for the space derivatives are applied to the computation of the basic equations. A set of open boundary conditions is developed to effectively transmit the cnoidal waves out of the computational domain. It is found that, as expected, the wave length decreases with an opposing current and increases with a following current. The wave height increases in magnitude with an opposing current and decreases with a following current. The Mach reflection due to oblique cnoidal waves propagating into an open channel with an opposing current is also investigated. Due to the opposing current, the wave patterns are compressed into smaller saddle-like regions in comparison with the Mach reflection without current effect. 相似文献
12.
We consider steady, slowly varying water waves propagating on a steady current over a gently sloping bed, so-called current depth refraction. All expressions are correct to second order in wave amplitude. Formulating the energy equation for the fluctuating motion in terms of wave action (wave energy divided by intrinsic angular frequency) results in an expression, where the dissipative term is strikingly similar to wave action itself. It is simply the ‘extra’ dissipation (per unit area) caused by the fluctuating motion (i.e. total dissipation minus the effect of current acting on total mean bed shear stress) divided by the intrinsic angular frequency. We call it ‘wave action dissipation’. An inconsistency in Phillips' (1977) book is pointed out. A new formula for the calculation of wave amplitudes along rays is set forth. 相似文献
13.
Disintegration of linear edge waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
It is demonstrated that offshore wavenumbers of edge waves change from imaginary wavenumbers in deep water to real wavenumbers in shallow water. This finding indicates that edge waves in the offshore direction exist as evanescent waves in deep water and as propagating waves in shallow water. Since evanescent waves can stably exist in a limited region while propagating waves cannot, energy should be released from nearshore regions. In the present study, the instability region is predicted based on both the full water wave solution and the shallow-water wave approximation. 相似文献
14.
The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous seabed. The objective of this study is to establish a new wave dispersion equation for waves propagating over a porous seabed. Based on the new relation, the effects of a porous seabed on wave characteristics (such as the wavelength and wave profile) are discussed in detail. 相似文献
15.
This paper describes the calibration procedure adopted for the new 3D wave basin located in the Hydrodynamics Laboratory at Imperial College London. Unlike traditional calibrations, based on observations of regular wave trains, the method described herein uses a focused wave approach. Such waves, produced by the constructive interference of freely propagating wave components, have led to a number of recent advances in theoretical wave modelling in which it was essential to know the underlying linear components. In the context of a laboratory study, similar advantages can be realised provided the linear wave components generated by the wave paddles are well defined. This, in turn, can only be achieved if the calibration is sufficiently accurate. The current study provides a calibration based upon a realistic JONSWAP spectrum, describes the details of the methodology employed, and highlights how the application of focused wave techniques eliminates spurious calibration effects due to unwanted reflections from the boundaries of the basin. The final calibration is verified through the generation of test cases, involving linear and nonlinear, unidirectional and directionally spread waves. These confirm both the accuracy of the calibration and the suitability of the methods employed. 相似文献
16.
为研究波浪聚焦特性,分析极端波浪的产生机理,采用非静压模型通过数值模拟的方法对波浪聚焦的影响因素进行了详细研究。本文采用SWASH非静压波浪模型,模型垂向均匀分三层以保证足够的色散精度以及非线性精度来高效准确的模拟波浪在变化地形上的传播。研究发现在最大波浪未发生破碎时,波浪在半圆形凸起斜坡浅滩上传播,波浪聚焦是波高增大的最主要原因。初始kR(波数与浅滩半径乘积)值对波浪在该地形上的聚焦特性有着重要影响。初始kR越大,最大波高位置距聚焦地形坡脚的距离越远。当kR在1.4π~4.05π之间时,随着kR的减小,最大相对波高先增大后减小,当kR=2.45π时,最大相对波高达到极大值,可达2.48倍初始波高。 相似文献
17.
Zonally propagating wave solutions of the linearized shallow water equations (LSWE) in a zonal channel on the rotating spherical earth are constructed from numerical solutions of eigenvalue equations that yield the meridional variation of the waves' amplitudes and the phase speeds of these waves. An approximate Schrödinger equation, whose potential depends on one parameter only, is derived, and this equation yields analytic expressions for the dispersion relations and for the meridional structure of the waves' amplitudes in two asymptotic cases. These analytic solutions validate the accuracy of the numerical solutions of the exact eigenvalue equation. Our results show the existence of Kelvin, Poincaré and Rossby waves that are harmonic for large radius of deformation. For small radius of deformation, the latter two waves vary as Hermite functions. In addition, our results show that the mixed mode of the planar theory (a meridional wavenumber zero mode that behaves as a Rossby wave for large zonal wavenumbers and as a Poincaré wave for small ones) does not exist on a sphere; instead, the first Rossby mode and the first westward propagating Poincaré mode are separated by the anti-Kelvin mode for all values of the zonal wavenumber. 相似文献
18.
Surface gravity waves propagating on large-scale currents over a gently sloping sea bed are considered. Assuming irrotational flow a general proof is given of the existence of a mean energy level, leading directly to the current wave set-down. The complete set of conservation equations describing combined current-depth refraction is presented and solved in two special ssituations. Also a case with a rotational current is considered. Dissipation is neglected. 相似文献
19.
This study investigates stem waves, propagating along a vertical wall, due to obliquely incident random waves through laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. Attention is paid to the difference or similarity between the stem waves due to periodic waves and random waves, the nonlinear and linear characteristics, and the effect of wave breaking on the evolution of stem waves. The following were found from this study: as the incident angle of waves become large or the nonlinearity of the incident waves become small, the significant stem wave height, normalized by the incident significant wave height, becomes large. This tendency is the same as that generated by the Stokes waves or cnoidal waves. However, regardless of the nonlinearity of incident waves, the width of stem waves is almost the same. This is a different point between the stem waves due to periodic and random waves. The wave breaking suppresses the growth of the stem waves. 相似文献
20.
Verification tests of linear wave propagation models for cases of waves propagating through a refractive focus typically overpredict peak amplitudes in the vicinity of the focus. Using a parabolic equation model for the combined refraction-diffraction of weakly-nonlinear waves [valid for Ursell number Ur < O(1)], we show that, in a particular experiment, much of the discrepancy between laboratory measurements and linear wave model predictions can be accounted for by including the effect of nonlinearity, which is important in the region of the focus. 相似文献